VOYAGES 



FROM 



MONTREAL 



THROUGH THE 



Continent of North America ^^c. 



^ 



VOYAGES 

>^ FROM 

MONTREAL, 

OJV THE RIVER ST. LAUREJ^CE, 

THROUGH THE 

CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA, 

TO THE 

FROZEN AND PACIFIC OCEANS; 

IN THE YEARS 1789 AND 1793. 
IVIfH A PRELIMINART ACCOUNT 

OF THE RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE 

OF J 

THE FUR TRADE 

OF THAT COUNTRY. 

Illustrated nxith 
A GENERAL MAP OF THE COUNTRY, 



BY SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED BY JOHJy MORGA^r. 

R. CARR, PRINTER, 

1802.' 



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TO 

HIS MOST SACRED MAJESTY 

GEORGE THE THIRD, 

THIS VOLUME 

IS INSCRIBED, 

BY HIS MAJESTY* S 
MOST FAITHFUL SUBJECT, 

AND 

DEVOTED SERVANT, 

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 



PREFACE. 



On presenting this Volume to my Country, 
it is not necessary to enter into a particular 
account of those voyages whose journals form 
the principal part of it, as they will be found, 
I trust, to explain themselves. It appears, 
however, to be a duty, which the Public 
have a right to expect from me, to state the 
reasons which have influenced me in delay- 
ing the publication of them. 

It has been asserted, that a misunder- 
standing between a person high in office and 
myself, was the cause of this procrastination. 
It has also been propagated, that it was occa- 
casioned by that precaution which the policy 
of commerce will sometimes suggest; but 
they are both equally devoid of foundation. 
The one is an idle tale ; and there could be 
no solid reason for concealing the circum- 
stances of discoveries, whose arrangements 
and prosecution were so honourable to my 
associates and myself, at whose expence they 
were undertaken. The delay actually arose 
from the very active and busy mode of life 



ii PREFACE. 

in vhich I was engaged since the voyages 
h^ve been completed ; and when, at length, 
the opportunity arrived, the apprehension of 
presenting myself to the Public in the charac- 
ter of an Author, for which the course and 
occupations of my life have by no means 
qualified me, made me hesitate in committing 
my papers to the Press ; being much better 
calculated to perform the voyages, arduous 
as they might be, than to write an account 
of them. However, they are now offered to 
the Public with the submission that becomes 
me. 

I was led, at an early period of life, by 
commercial views, to the country North- 
West of Lake Superior, in North America, 
and being endowed by Nature with an inqui- 
sitive mind and enterprising spirit; possessing 
also a constitution and frame of body equal 
to the most arduous undertakings, and being 
familiar with toilsome exertions in the pro- 
secution of mercantile pursuits, I not only 
contemplated the practicabiUty of penetrat- 
ing across the continent of America, but was 
confident in the qualifications, as I was ani- 
mated by the desire, to undertake the peril- 
ous enterprize. 

The general utility of such a discovery, 
has been universally acknowledged; while 



PREFACE. \ iii 

the wishes of my particular friends andcWii- 
mercial associates, that I should proceed 
the pursuit of it, contributed to quicken the^ 
execution of this favourite project of my own 
ambition: and as the completion of it extends 
the boundaries of geographic science, and 
adds new countries to the realms of British 
commerce, the dangers I have encountered, 
and the toils I have suffered, have found 
their recompence ; nor will the many tedious 
and weary days, or the gloomy and inclement 
nights which I have passed, have been pass- 
ed in vain. 

The first voyage has settled the dubious 
point of a practicable North-West passage ; 
and I trust it has set that long agitated ques- 
tion at rest, and extinguished the disputes 
respecting it forever. An enlarged discus- 
sion of that subject will be found to occupy 
the concluding pages of this volume. 

In this voyage, I was not only without the 
necessary books and instruments, but also 
felt myself deficient in the sciences of astro- 
nomy and navigation ; I did not hesitate, 
therefore, to undertake a winter's voyage to 
this country, in order to procure the one, 
and acquire the other. These objects being 
accomplished, I returned, to determine the 
practicability of a commercial communication 



iv PREFACE. 

thtough the continent of North America, 
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, 
which is proved by my second journal. Nor 
do I hesitate to declare my decided opinion, 
that very great and essential advantages may 
be derived by extending our trade from one 
sea to the other. 

Some account of the fur trade of Canada 
from that country, of the native inhabitants, 
and of the extensive districts connected with 
it, forms a preliminary discourse, which will, 
I trust, prove interesting to a nation, whose 
general policy is blended with, and whose 
prosperity is supported by, the pursuits of 
commerce. It will also qualify the reader to 
pursue the succeeding voyages with supe- 
rior intelligence and satisfaction. 

These voyages will not, I fear, afford the 
variety that may be expected from them; and 
that which they offered to the eye, is not of a 
nature to be effectually transferred to the 
page. Mountains and vallies, the dreary 
waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the 
lakes and rivers succeed each other in gene- 
ral description ; and, except on the coasts of 
the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were 
permanent, and the inhabitants in a great 
measure stationary, small bands of wander- 
ing Indians are the only people whom I shall 



PREFACE. V 

introduce to the acquaintance of my readers. 

The beaver and the buffalo, the moose- 
deer and the elk, which are the principal 
animals to be found in these countries, are 
already so familiar to the naturalists of Eu- 
rope, and have been so often as well as cor- 
rectly described in their works, that the bare 
mention of them, as they enlivened the land- 
scape, or were hunted for food; with a cur- 
sory account of the soil, the course and navi- 
gation of lakes and rivers, and their various 
produce, is all that can be reasonably expected 
from me. 

I do not possess the science of the natu- 
ralist ; and even if the qualifications of that 
character had been attained by me, its curious 
spirit would not have been gratified. I could 
not stop to dig into the earth, over whose 
surface I was compelled to pass with rapid 
steps ; nor could I turn aside to collect the 
plants which nature might have scattered on 
the way, when my thoughts were anxiously 
employed in making provision for the day 
that was passing over me. I had to encoun- 
ter perils by land and perils by water; to 
watch the savage who was our guide, or to 
guard against those of his tribe who might 
meditate our destruction. I had, also, the 
passions and fears of others to controul and 



vi PREFACE. 

subdue. To day, I had to assuage the ris- 
ing discontents, and on the morrow, to cheer 
the fainting spirits of the people who accom- 
panied me. The toil of our navigation 
was incessant, and oftentimes extreme ; and 
in our progress over land, we had no protec- 
tion from the severity of the elements, and 
possessed no accommodations or convenien- 
ces but such as could be contained in the 
burden on our shoulders, which aggra- 
vated the toils of our march, and added to the 
wearisomeness of our way. 

Though the events which compose my 
journals may have little in themselves to 
strike the imagination of those who love to 
be astonished, or to gratify the curiosity of 
such as are enamoured of romantic adven- 
tures; nevertheless, when it is considered, 
that I explored those waters which had never 
before borne any other vessel than the canoe 
of the savage; and traversed those deserts 
where an European had never before pre- 
sented himself to the eye of its swarthy 
natives; when to these considerations are 
added the important objects which were pur- 
sued, with the dangers that were encountered, 
and the difficulties that were surmounted to 
attain them, this work will, I flatter myself, 



PREFACP:. vii 

be found to excite an interest, and conciliate 
regard, in the minds of those who peruse it. 
The general map which illustrates this 
volume, is reduced by Mr. Arrowsmith from 
his three-sheet map of North-America, with 
the latest discoveries, which he is about to 
republish. His professional abilities are 
well known, and no encomium of mine will 
advance the general and merited opinion of 
them. 

Before I conclude, I must beg leave to in- 
form my readers, that they are not to expect 
the charms of embellished narrative, or ani- 
mated description ; the approbation due to 
simplicity and to truth, is all I presume to 
claim; and I am not without the hope that 
this claim will be allowed me. I have de- 
scribed whatever I saw with the impressions 
of the moment which presented it to me. 
The successive circumstances of my pro- 
gress are related without exaggeration or dis- 
play. I have seldom allowed myself to 
wander into conjecture ; and whenever con- 
jecture has been indulged, it will be found, I 
trust, to be accompanied with the temper of 
a man who is not disposed to think too highly 
of himself: and if, at any time, I have deli- 
vered myself with confidence, it will appear, 



vlii PREFACE. 

I hope, to be on those subjects, which, from 
the habits and experience of my Ufe, will jus- 
tify an unreserved communication of my opi- 
nions. I am not a candidate for literary 
fame : at the same time, I cannot but indulge 
the hope that this volume, with all its imper- 
fections, will not be thought unworthy the 
attention of the scientific geographer ; and 
that, by unfolding countries hitherto unex- 
plored, and which, I presume, may now be 
considered as a part of the British dominions, 
it will be received as a faithful tribute to the 
prosperity of my country. 

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 

I.ON'DOK, 

November .">0, 1801, 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



iXF THE 



FUR TRADE 



FROM 



CANADA TO THE NORTH-WEST- 



1 HE fur trade, from the earliest settlement of 
Canada, was considered of the first importance to 
that colony. The country was then so populous, 
that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the ani- 
mals whose skins were precious, in a commercial 
view, soon became very scarce, if not altogether 
extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former 
periods, but merely for food and clothing. The In- 
dians, therefore, to procure the necessary supply, 
were encouraged to penetrate into the country, and 
\vere generally accompanied by some of the Cana- 
dians, who found means to induce the remotest 
tribes of natives to bring the skins which were 
most in demand, to their settlements, in the way of 
trade. 

It is not necessary for me to examine the cause, 
but experience proves that it requires much less 
time for a civilized people to deviate into the man- 
ners and customs of savage life, than for savages 



ii A GENERAL HISTORY 

to rise into a state of civilization. Such was the 
event w^ith those vi^ho thus accompanied the na- 
tives on their hunting and trading excursions; for 
they became so attached to the Indian mode of 
life, that they lost all relish for their former habits 
and native homes. Hence they derived the title 
of Ccureurs des Bois, became a kind of pedlars, 
and were extremely useful to the merchants en- 
gaged in the fur trade ; who gave them the neces- 
sary credit to proceed on their commercial un- 
dertakings. Three or four of these people would 
join their stock, put their property into a birch- 
bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and 
either accompanied the natives in their excursions, 
or went at once to the country where they knew 
they were to hunt. At length, these voyages 
extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they 
returned with rich cargoes of furs, and followed 
by great numbers of the natives. During the short 
time requisite to settle their accounts with the 
merchants, and procure fresh credit, they gene- 
rally contrived to squander away all their gains, 
when they returned to renew their favourite mode 
of life : their views being answered, and their la- 
bour sufficiently rewarded, by indulging them- 
selves in extravagance and dissipation, during the 
short space of one month in twelve or fifteen. 

This indifference about amassing property, and 
the pleasure of living free from all restraint, soon 
brought on a licentiousness of manners which 
could not long escape the vigilant observation of 
the missionaries, who had much reason to com- 
plain of their being a disgrace to the Christian re- 
ligion; by not only swerving from its duties 
themselves, but by thus bringing it into disrepute 
with those of the natives who had become converts 
to it ; andj consequently, obstructing the great ob* 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cc. Hi 

jcct to which those pious men had devoted their 
lives. They therefore, exerted their influence to 
procure the suppression of these people, and ac- 
cordingly, no one was allowed to go up the coun- 
try to traffic with the Indians, without a licence 
from the government. 

At first these permissions were, of course, 
granted only to those whose character was such as 
could give no alarm to the zeal of the missiona- 
ries: but they were afterwards bestowed as re- 
wards for services, on officers, and their widows; 
and they, who were not willing or able to make 
use of them (which may be supposed to be always 
the case with those of the latter description), were 
allowed to sell them to the merchants, who neces- 
sarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality 
of their agents; and these people, as may be ima- 
gined, gave sufficient cause for the renewal of 
former complaints ; so that the remedy proved, in 
fact, worse than the disease. 

At length, military posts were established at 
the confluence of the different large lakes of Ca- 
nada, which, in a great measure checked the evil 
consequences that followed from the improper 
conduct of these foresters, and, at the same time, 
protected the trade. Besides, a number of able 
and respectable men, retired from the army, pro- 
secuted the trade in person, under their respec- 
tive licences, with great order and regularity, and 
extended it to such a distance, as, in those days, 
was considered to be an astonishing effort of 
commercial enterprize. These persons and the 
missionaries having combined their views at the 
same time, secured the respect of the natives, and 
the obedience of the people necessarily employed 
in the laborious parts of this undertaking. These 
gentlemen denominated themselves commanders, 



iv A GENERAL HISTORY 

and not traders, though they were Intitled to both 
those characters : and, as for the missionaries, if 
sufferings and hardships in the prosecution of the 
great work which they had undertaken, deserved 
applause and admiration, they had an undoubted 
claim to be admired and applauded : they spared 
no labour and avoided no danger in the execution 
of their important office ; and it is to be seriously 
lamented, that their pious endeavours did not 
meet with the success which they deserved : for 
there is hardly a trace to be found beyond the cul- 
tivated parts, of their meritorious functions. 

The cause of this failure must be attributed to 
a want of due consideration in the mode employ, 
ed by the missionaries, to propagate the religion 
of which they were the zealous ministers. They 
habituated themselves to the savage life, and natu- 
ralized themselves to the savage manners, and, by 
thus becoming dependent, as it were, on the 
natives, they acquired their contempt rather thaii 
their veneration. If they had been as well ac- 
quainted with human nature, as they were with 
the articles of their faith, they would have known, 
that the uncultivated mind of an Indian must be 
disposed by much preparatory method and in- 
struction to receive the revealed truths of Chris- 
tianity, to act under its sanctions, and be impelled 
to good by the hope of its reward, or turned from 
evil by the fear of its punishments. They should 
have begun their work by teaching some of those 
useful arts which are the inlets of knowledge, and 
lead the mind by degrees to objects of higher 
comprehension. Agriculture so formed to fix 
and combine society, and so preparatory to objects 
of superior consideration, should have been the 
first thing introduced among a savage people : it 
attaches the wandering tribe to that spot w^here 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. v 

it adds so much to their comforts; while it gives 
them a sense of property, and of lasting posses- 
sion, instead of the uncertain hopes of the chase, 
and the fugitive produce of uncultivated wilds. 
Such were the means by which the forests of Pa- 
raguay were converted into a scene of abundant 
cultivation, and its savage inhabitants introduced 
to all the advantages of a civilized life. 

The Canadian missionaries should have been 
contented to improve the morals of their own 
countrymen, so that by meliorating their charac- 
ter and conduct, they would have given a strik- 
ing example of the effect of religion in pro- 
moting the comforts of life to the surrounding 
savages; and might by degrees have extended 
its benign influence to the remotest regions of 
that country, which was the object, and intended 
to be the scene, of their evangelic labours. But 
by bearing the light of the Gospel at once to the 
distance of two thousand five hundred miles from 
the civilized part of the colonies, it was soon ob- 
scured by the cloud of ignorance that darkened 
the human mind in those distant regions. 

The whole of their long route I have often 
travelled, and the recollection of such a people as 
the missionaries having been there, was confined 
to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not 
left that country since the cession to the English, 
in 1763, and who particularly mentioned the 
death of some, and the distressing situation of 
them all. But if these religious men did not at- 
tain the objects of their persevering piety, they 
were, during their mission, of great .service to 
the commanders who en2:a2:ed in those distant 
expeditions, and spread the fur trade as fiir West 
as the banks of the Saskatchi^vine river, in 53. 
North latitude, and longitude 102. West. 



vi A GENERAL HISTORY' 

At an early period of their intercourse with the 
savages, a custom was introduced of a very ex- 
cellent tendency, but is now unfortunately dis- 
continued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to 
the natives. This admirable regulation was for 
some time observed, with all the respect due to 
the religion by which it was sanctioned, and 
whose severest censures followed the violation of 
it. A painful penance could alone restore the 
offender to the suspended rites of the sacrament. 
The casuistry of trade, however, discovered a 
way to gratify the Indians with their favourite 
cordial, without incurring the ecclesiastical pe- 
nalties, by giving, instead of selling it to them. 

But notwithstanding all the restrictions with 
which commerce was oppressed under the French 
government, the fur trade was extended to the 
immense distance which has been already stated ; 
and surmounted many most discouraging difficul- 
ties, which will be hereafter noticed ; while, at 
the same time, no exertions were made from 
Hudson's Bay to obtain even a share of the trade 
of a country, which according to the charter of 
that company, belonged to it, and, from its prox- 
imity, is so much more accessible to the mer- 
cantile adventurer. 

Of these trading commanders, I understood, 
that two attempted to penetrate to the Pacific 
Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey I 
could never learn ; which may be attributed, in- 
deed, to a failure of the undertaking. 

For some time after the conquest of Canada, 
this trade was suspended, which must have been 
very advantageous to the Hudson's Bay Company, 
as all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Su- 
perior were obliged to go to them for such arti- 
cles as their habitual use had rendered necessarv. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. \n 

Some of the Canadians who had lived long with 
them, and were become attached to a savage life, 
accompanied them thither annually, till mercan- 
tile adventurers again appeared from their own 
country, after an interval of several years, owing, 
as I suppose, to an ignorance of the country in 
the conquerors, and their want of commercial 
confidence in the conquered. There were, in- 
deed, other discouragements, such as the immense 
length of the journey necessary to reach the limits 
beyond which this commerce must begin; the 
risk of property; the expences attending such a 
long transport; and an ignorance of the language 
of those who, from their experience, must be 
necessarily employed as the intermediate agents 
between them and the natives. But, notwith- 
standing these difficulties, the trade, by degrees, 
began to spread over the different parts to which 
it had been carried by the French, though at a 
great risk of the lives, as Avell as the property of 
their new possessors, for the natives had been 
taught by their former allies to entertain hostile 
dispositions towards the English, from their hav- 
ing been in alliance with their natural enemies 
the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a suffi- 
cient numberof discontented, disappointed people, 
to keep alive such a notion ; so that for a long time 
they were considered and treated as objects of 
hostility. To prove this disposition of the In- 
dians, we have only to refer to the conduct of 
Pontiac, at Detroit, and the surprise and taking 
of Michilimakinac, about this period. 

Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 
1766, before which, the trade I mean to consider, 
commenced from Michilimakinac. The first who 
attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the 
river Camenistiquia, about thirty miles to the 



viii A GENERAL HISTORY 

Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the 
French had a principal establishment, and was 
the line of their communication with the interior 
country. It was once destroyed by fire. Here 
they went and returned successful in the follow- 
ing spring to Michilimakinac. Their success in- 
duced them to renew their journey, and incited 
others to follow their example. Some of them 
remained at Camenistiquia, while others proceed- 
ed to and beyond the Grande Portage, which, 
since that time has become the principal entrepot 
of that trade, and is situated in a bay, in latitude 
48. North, and longitude 90. West. After passing 
the usual season there, they went back to Michi- 
limakinac as before, and encouraged by the trade, 
returned in increased numbers. One of these, 
Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize supe- 
rior to that of his contemporaries, determined to 
penetrate to the furthest limits of the French dis- 
coveries in that country; or at least till the frost 
should stop him. For this purpose he procured 
guides and interpreters, who were acquainted with 
the country, and with four canoes arrived at Fort 
Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the 
West end of the Cedar Lake, on the waters of the 
Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil wxre well re- 
compensed, for he came back the following spring 
with his canoes filled with fine furs, with which 
he proceeded to Canada, and was satisfied never 
again to return to the Indian country. 

From this period, people began to spread over 
every part of the country, particularly where the 
French had established settlements. 

Mr. James Finlay was the first who followed 
Mr. Curry's example, and with the same number 
of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next sea- 
son, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. ix 

on the bank of the Saskatchiwme fiver, In latitude 
nearly 43 f. North, and longitude 103 West : he 
found the good fortune, as he followed, in ^very 
respect, the example, of his predecessor. 

As may be supposed, there were now people 
enough ready to replace them, and the trade w^as 
pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that in 
a few years it became the reverse of what it ought 
to have been. An animated competition prevailed, 
and the contending parties carried the trade beyond 
the French limits, though with no benefit to them- 
selves or neighbours, the Hudson's Bay Company 5 
who in the year 1774, and not till then, thought 
proper to move from home to the East bank of Stur- 
geon Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 
102. 15. West, and became more jealous of their 
fellow subjects ; and, perhaps, with more cause, 
than they had been of those of France. From this 
period, to the present time, they have been follow- 
ing the Canadians to their different establishments, 
while, on the contrary, there is not a solitary in- 
stance that the Canadians have followed them; and 
there are many trading posts which they have not 
yet attained. This, however, will no longer be a 
mystery, when the nature and policy of the Hud- 
son's-Bay Company is compared with that which 
has been pursued by their rivals in this trade, — 
But to return to my subject. 

This competition, which has been already men- 
tioned, gave a fatal blow to the trade from Canada, 
and, with other incidental causes, in my opinion, 
contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on 
in a very distant country, out of the reach of legal 
restraint, and where there w^as a free scope given 
to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The 
consequence was not only the loss of commercial 
benefit to the persons engaged in it, but of the 
good opinion of the natives, and the respect of their 

D 



X A GENERAL HISTORY 

men, who were inclined to follow their example ; 
so that w^ith drinking, carousing, and quarrelling 
with the Indians along their route, and among 
themselves, they seldom reached their winter quar- 
ters ; and if they did, it was generally by dragging 
their property upon sledges, as the navigation was 
closed up by the frost. When at length they were 
arrived, the object of each was to injure his rival 
traders in the opinion of the natives as much as was 
in their power, by misrepresentation and presents, 
for which the agents employed were peculiarly cal- 
culated. They considered the command of their 
employer as binding on them, and however wrong 
or irregular the transaction, the responsibility rest- 
ed with the principal who directed them. This is 
Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit and 
their property with the natives, till the first was 
past redemption, and the last was nearly exhaust- 
ed ; so that towards the spring in each year, the 
rival parties found it absolutely necessary to join, 
and make one common stock of what remained, for 
the purpose of trading with the natives, who could 
entertain no respect for persons who had conducted 
themselves with so much irregularity and deceit. 
The winter, therefore, was one continued scene of 
disagreements and quarrels. If any one had the 
precaution or good sense to keep clear of these 
proceedings, he derived a proportionable advan- 
tage from his good conduct, and frequently proved 
a peace-maker between the parties. To such an 
height had they carried this licentious conduct, 
that they v/ere in a continual state of alarm, and 
were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their 
route into the country; though they had adopted 
the plan of travelling together in parties of thirty 
or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed ; 
which sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for 
their defence. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xi 

Thus was the trade carried on for several years, 
and consequently becoming worse and worse, so 
that the partners, who met them at the Grande 
Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. 
But specious reasons were always ready to prove 
that it arose from circumstances which they could 
not at that time con troul; and encouragements were 
held forth to hope that a change would soon take 
place, which would make ample amends for past 
disappointments. 

It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Fro- 
bisher, one of the gentlemen engaged in the trade, 
determined to penetrate into the country yet unex- 
plored, to the North and Westward, and, in the 
spring of the year 1775, met the Indians from that 
quarter on their way to Fort Churchill, at Portage 
de Traite, so named from that circumstance, on 
the banks of the Missinipi, or Churchill river, 
latitude 55, 25. North, longitude lOSf. West. It 
was, indeed, with some difficulty that he could in- 
duce them to trade with him, but he at length pro- 
cured as many furs as his canoes could carry. In 
this perilous expedition he sustained every kind of 
hardship incident to a journey through a wild and 
savage country, ^vhere his subsistence depended on 
what the woods and the waters produced. These 
difficulties, nevertheless, did not discourage him 
from returning in the following year, when he was 
equally successful. He then sent his brother to 
explore the country still further West, who pene- 
trated as far as the lake of Isle a la Crosse, in lati- 
tude 55, 26. North, and longitude 108. West. 

He, however, never after wintered among the 
Indians, though he retained a large interest in the 
trade, and a principal share in the direction of it till 
the year 1798, v/hen he retired to enjoy the fruits 
of his labours ; and, by his hospitality, became 
knov/n to every respectable stranger who visited 
Canada. 



xii A GENERAL HISTORY ' 

The success of this gentleman induced others 
to follow his example, and in the spring of the year 
1778, some of the traders on the Saska-chiwine 
river, finding they had a quantity of goods to 
spare, agreed- to put them into a jonit stock, and 
gave the charge and management of them to Mr. 
Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was directed to 
enter the English River, so called by Mr. Fro- 
bisher, to follow his track, and pioceed still fur- 
ther; if possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto 
unknown but from Indian report. In this enter- 
prize he at length succeeded, and pitched his tent 
on the banks of the Elk river, by him erroneous- 
ly called the Athabasca river, about forty miles 
from the Lake of the Hiils, into which it empties 
itself. 

Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a 
vast concourse of the Knisteneaux and Chepew- 
yan tribes, who used to carry their furs annually 
to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, 
where they suffered innumerable hardships, and 
were sometimes even starved to death. The 
former followed the course of the lakes and rivers, 
through a country that abounded in ariimals, and 
where there was plenty of fish : but though they 
did not suffer from want of food, the intolerable 
fatigue of such a journey could not be easily 
repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore, highly 
gratified by seeing j^eople come to their country to 
relieve them from such long, toilsome, and dan- 
gerous journies; and were immediately reconciled 
to give an advanced price for the articles neces- 
sary to their comfort and convenience, Mr. 
Pond's reception and success was accordingly 
beyond his expectation ; and he procured twice 
as many furs as his canoes would carry. They 
also supplied him with as much provision as he 
required during his residence among them, and 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xiii 

sufficient for his homeward voyage. Such of the 
furs as he could not embark, he secured in one of 
his winter huts, and they were found the following 
season, in the same state in which he left them. 

These, however, were but partial advantages, 
and could not prevent the people of Canada from 
seeing the improper conduct of some of their 
associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain 
any longer among the natives. Most of them who 
passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, got to the 
Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, 
a few days previous to their intended departure, 
a large band of Indians being engaged in drinking 
about their houses, one of the traders, to ease him- 
self of the troublesome importunities of a native, 
gave him a dose of laudanum in a glass of grog, 
which effectually prevented him from giving fur- 
ther trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for- 
ever. This accident produced a fray, in which 
one of the traders, and several of the men were 
killed, while the rest had no other means to save 
themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning 
a considerable quantity of goods, and near half the 
furs which they had collected during the winter 
and the spring. 

About the same time, two of the establishments 
on the Assiniboin river, were attacked with less 
justice, when several white men, and a great num- 
ber of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, 
that the natives had formed a resolution to extir- 
pate the traders; and, without entering into any 
further reasonings on the subject, it appears to be 
incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in 
carrying on the trade has brought it into its present 
forlorn situation; and nothing but the greatest 
calamity that could have befallen the natives, saved 
the traders from destruction: this w^as the small 
pox, which spread its destructive and desolating 



xlv A GENERAL HISTORY 

power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of the 
field. The fatal infection spread around with a 
baneful rapidity which no flight could escape, and 
with a fatal effect that nothing could resist. It 
destroyed with its pestilential breath whole 
families and tribes; and the horrid scene presented 
to those who had the melancholy and afflicting 
opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the 
dead, the dying, and such as to avoid the horrid 
fate of their friends around them, prepared to dis- 
appoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their 
own existence. 

The habits and lives of these devoted people, 
which provided not to-day for the wants of to- 
morrow, must have heightened the pains of such 
an affliction, by leaving them not only without 
remedy, but even without alleviation. Nought 
was left them but to submit in agony and despair. 

To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were 
possible, may be added, the putrid carcases which 
the wolves, w^ith a furious voracity, dragged forth 
from the huts, or Avhich were mangled within 
them by the dogs, whose hunger was satisfied 
with the disfigured remains of their masters. Nor 
was it uncommon for the father of a family, v. horn 
the infection had not reached, to call them around 
him, to represent the cruel sufferings and horrid 
fate of their relations, from the influence of some 
evil spirit who was preparing to extirpate their 
race; and to incite them to bafHe death, Vvdth all 
its horrors, by their ovrn poignards. At the same 
time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary 
act, he was himself ready to perform the deed of 
mercy with his own hand, as the last act of his af- 
fection, and instantly to tollow them to the com. 
mon place of rest and refuge from human evil. 

It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what 
means this malignant disorder was introduced, but 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xv 

it was generally supposed to be from the Missi- 
souri, by a war party. 

The consequence of this melancholy event to the 
traders must be self-evident ; the means of dispos- 
ing of their goods were cut off; and no furs were 
obtained, but such as had been gathered from the 
habitations of the deceased Indians, which could 
not be very considerable : nor did they look from 
the losses of the present year, with any encouraging 
expectations to those which were to come. The 
only fortunate people consisted of a party who had 
again penetrated to the northward and Westward 
in 1780, at some distance up the Missinipi, or En- 
glish river, to Lake la Rouge. Two unfortunate 
circumstances, however, happened to them ; which 
are as follow^: 

Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity 
and known sobriety, had gone there in the year 
1779, and remained during the summer 1780. 
His partners and others, engaged in an opposite in- 
terest, when at the Grande Portage, agreed to send 
a quantity of goods on their joint account, which 
was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them 
to be their representative to act in conjunction 
with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of more opposite 
characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. 
In short, from various causes, their situations be- 
came very uncomfortable to each other, and mutual 
ill-will was the natural consequence : without en- 
tering, therefore, into a minute history of these 
transactions, it will be sufficient to observe, that, 
about the end of the year 1780, or the beginning 
of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and 
one of his own clerks to dinner; and, in the course 
of the night, the former was shot through the 
lower part of the thigh, when it was said that he 
expired from the loss of blood, and was buried 
next morning at eight o'clock. Mr. Pond, and 



xvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

the clerk, were tried for this murder at Montreal, 
and acquitted : nevertheless, their innocence was 
not so apparent as to extinguish the original sus- 
picion. 

The other circumstance was this. In the spring 
of the year, Mr. Pond sent the abovementioned 
clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, who 
used to go annually to Hudson's Bay ; when he 
easily persuaded them to trade with him, and return 
back, that they might not take the contagion which 
had depopulated the country to the Eastward of 
them : but most unfortunately they caught it here, 
and carried it with them, to the destruction of them- 
selves and the neighbouring tribes. 

The country being thus depopulated, the traders 
and their friends from Canada, who, from various 
causes already mentioned, were very much reduced 
in number, became confined to two parties, who 
began seriously to think of making permanent esta- 
blishments on the Missinipi river, and at Athabas- 
ca ; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they selected 
their best canoe-men, being ignorant that the small 
pox penetrated that way. The most expeditious 
party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, 
or Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters 
of the Missinipi from those that fall into the Elk 
river, to dispatch one canoe strong handed, and 
light-loaded, to that country ; but, on their arrival 
there, they found, in every direction, the ravages 
of the small pox ; so that, from the great diminu- 
tion of the natives, they returned in the spring with 
no more than seven packages of beaver. The strong 
woods and mountainous countries afforded a refuge 
to those who lied from the contagion of the plains ; 
but they were so alarmed at the surrounding de- 
structii)n, that they avoided the traders, and were 
dispirited from hunting, except for their subsist- 
ence. The traders, however, who returned inta 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xvii 

the country in the year 1782-3, found the inhabi- 
tants in some sort of tranquillity, and more 
numerous than they had reason to expect, so that 
their success was proportionably better. 

During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of 
Canada, engaged in this trade, formed a junction 
of interests, under the name of the North- West 
Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, with- 
out depositing any capital; each party furnishing a 
proportion or quota of such articles as were neces- 
sary to carry on the trade : the respective parties 
agreeing to satisfy the friends they had in the 
country, Vv ho were not provided for, according to 
this agreement, out of the proportions which they 
held. The management of the whole was accord- 
ingly entrusted to Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph 
Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two distinct 
houses, who had the greatest interest and influence 
in the country, and for which they w ere to receive 
a stipulated commission in all transactions. 

In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the 
Grande Portage with their credentials, which were 
confirmed and ratified by all the parties having an 
option, exept Mr. Peter Pond, who was not satis- 
fied with the share allotted him. Accordingly he, 
and another gentleman, Mr. Peter Pangman, who 
had a right to be a partner, but for whom no provi- 
sion had been made, came to Canada, with a 
determination to return to the country, if they could 
find any persons to join them, and give their scheme 
a proper support. 

The traders in the country, and merchants at 
Montreal, thus entered into a co-partnership, 
which, by these means, was consolidated and di- 
rected by able men, who, from the powers with 
which they were entrusted, would carry on the 
trade to the utmost extent it would bear. The 
traders in the country, therefore, having every 



xviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

reason to expect that their past and future labours 
would be recompensed, forgot all their former 
animosities, and engaged with the utmost spirit 
and activity, to forward the general interest ; so 
that, in the following year, they met their agents 
at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden 
with rich furs from the different parts of that im- 
mense tract of country. But this satisfaction was 
not to be enjoyed without some interruption ; and 
they were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had 
prevailed on Messrs. Gregory and Macleod to join 
him, and give him their support in the business, 
though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the 
terms offered by his former associates. 

In the counting house of Mr. Gregory I had been 
five years; and at this period had left him, with a 
small adventure of goods, with which he had en- 
trusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, 
without any solicitation on my part, had procured 
an insertion in the agreement, that I should be ad- 
mitted a partner in this business, on condition that 
I would proceed to the Indian country in the fol- 
lowing spring, 1785. His partner came to Detroit 
to make me such a proposition. I readily assented 
to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande 
Poi tage, where I joined my associates. 

We now found that independent of the natural 
difficulties of the undertaking, we should have to 
encounter every other which they, who were al- 
ready in possession of the trade of the country, 
could throw in our vv^ay, and which their circum- 
stances enabled them to do. Nor did they doubt, 
from their own superior experience, as well 
as that of their clerks and men, with their 
local knowledge of the country and its inhabitants, 
that they should soon compel us to leave the 
country to them. The event, however, did not 
justify their expectations ; for, after the severest 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec xix 

Struggle ever known in that part of the world, and 
suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival 
spirit could instigate; after the murder of one of our 
partners, the laming of another, and the narrow 
escape of one of our clerks, who received a bullet 
through his powder horn, in the execution of his 
duty, they were compelled to allow us a share of 
the trade. As we had already incurred a loss, this 
union was, in every respect, a desirable event to 
us, and was concluded in the month of July 1787. 

This commercial establishment was now found- 
ed on a more solid basis than any hitherto known 
in the country; and it not only continued in full 
force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all inter- 
ference from Canada, but maintained at least an 
equal share of advantage with the Hudson' s-Bay 
Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their 
local situation. The following account of this self- 
erected concern will manifest the cause of its 
success. 

It assumed the title of the North-West Com- 
pany, and was no more than an association of com- 
mercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry 
on the fur trade, unconnected with any other busi- 
ness, though many of the parties engaged had 
extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It may 
be said to have been supported entirely upon 
credit; for, whether the capital belonged to the 
proprietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore inte- 
rest, for which the association was annually ac- 
countable. It consisted of twenty shares, unequally 
divided among the persons concerned. Of these, a 
certain proportion was held by the people who 
managed the business in Canada, and were styled 
agents for the Company. Their duty was to import 
the necessary goods from England, store them at 
their own expence at Montreal, get them made up 
into articles suited to the trade, pack and forward 



XX A GENERAL HISTORY 

them, and supply the cash that might be wanting 
for the outfits, for which they received, indepen- 
dent of the profit on their shares, a commission on 
the amount of the accounts, which they were obli- 
ged to make out annually, and keep the adventure 
of each year distinct. Two of them went annually 
to the Grande Portage, to manage and transact the 
business there, and on the communication a^ De- 
troit, Michilimakinac, St. Mar 's, and at Montreal, 
where they received, stored, packed up, a.id ship- 
ped the company's furs for England on which they 
had also a small commission. The remaining 
shares were held by the proprietors, who were 
obliged to winter and manage the business of the 
concern with the Indians, and their respective 
clerks, &c. They were not supposed to be under 
any obligation to furnish capital, or even credit. 
If they obtained any capital by the trade, it was to 
remain in the himdb of the agents; for which they 
were allowed interest. Some of them, from their 
long services and influence, held double shares, 
and were allowed to retire from the business at any 
period of the existing concern, with one of those 
shares, naming any young man in the company's 
service to succeed him in the other. Seniority 
and merit were, however, considered as affording 
a claim to the succession, which, nevertheless, 
could not be disposed of without the concurrence 
of the majority of the concern ; who, at the same 
time relieved the seceding person from any respon- 
sibility respecting the share that he transferred, 
and accounted for it according to the annual value 
or rate of the property; so that the seller could 
have no advantage, but that of getting the share 
of stock which he retained realized, and receiv- 
ing for the transferred share what was fairly 
determined to be the wordi of it. The for- 
mer was also discharged from all duty, and be- 



i 



OF THE FUR TRADE, £^c. xxi 

came a dormant partner. Thus, all the young 
men who were not provided for at the beginning 
of the contract, succeeded in succession to the cha- 
racter and advantages of partners. They entered 
into the Company's service for live or seven years, 
under such expectations, and their reasonable 
prospects were seldom disappomted : there were, 
indeea, instances when they succeeded to shares, 
before their apprenticeship was expired, and it 
frequently happened, that they were provided for 
while they were in a state of articled clerkship. 
Shares were transferable only to the concern at 
large, as no person could be admitted as a partner 
who had not served his time to the trade. The 
dormant partner indeed might dispose of his inte- 
rest to any one he chose, but if the transaction was 
not acknowledged by his associates, the purchaser 
could only be considered as his agent or attorney. 
Every share had a vote, and two thirds formed a 
majority. This regular and equitable mode of 
providing for the clerks of the company, excited a 
spirit of emulation in the discharge of their various 
duties, and in fact, made every agent a principal, 
who perceived his own prosperity to be imme- 
diately connected with that of his employers. In- 
deed, without such a spirit, such a trade could not 
have become so extended and advantageous, as it 
has been and now is. 

In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for 
the year aid not ext eed forty thousand pounds*, 
but by the exertion, enterprise, and industry of 
the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, to 
triple that amount and up'v^'ards; yielding pro- 
portionate prohts, and surpassing, in short, any 
thing known in America. 

* This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it in- 
cluded, with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the property un- 
expended, which had been appropriated for the adventure of that year, 
and was carried on to the account of the following adventure. 



xxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the 
company, it, very naturally, tempted others to in- 
terfere with the concern in a manner by no means 
beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous 
to the undertakers. 

In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the 
shares were increased to forty- six, new partners 
being admitted, and others retiring. This period 
was the termination of the company, which was not 
renewed by all the parties concerned in it, the ma- 
jority continuing to act upon the old stock, and 
under the old firm; the others beginning a new 
one ; and it now remains to be decided, whether two 
parties, under the same regulations and by the 
same exertions, though unequal in number, can 
continue to carry on the business to a successful 
issue. The contrary opinion has been held, which 
if verified, will make it the interest of the parties 
again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capital 
to support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is 
not to be supposed that either will yield on any 
other terms than perpetual participation. 

It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain 
the general mode of carrying on the fur trade. 

The agents are obliged to order the necessary 
goods from England in the month of October, 
eighteen months before they can leave Montreal; 
that is, they are not shipped from London until the 
spring following, when they arrive in Canada in the 
summer. In the course of the following winter 
they are made up into such articles as are required 
for the savages; they are then packed into parcels 
of ninety pounds weight each, but cannot be sent 
from Montreal until the May following; so that they 
do not get to market until the ensuing winter, when 
they are exchanged for furs, which come to Mon- 
treal the next fall, and from thence are shipped, 
chiefly to London, where they are not sold or paid 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xxiii 

for before the succeeding spring, or even as late as 
June; which is forty-two months after the goods 
were ordered in Canada; thirty-six after they had 
been shipped from England, and twenty-four after 
they had been forwarded from Montreal ; so that 
the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months 
credit, does not receive a return to pay for those 
goods, and the necessary expences attending them, 
which is about equal to the value of the goods 
themselves, till two years after they are considered 
as cash, which makes this a very heavy business. 
There is even a small proportion of it that requires 
twelve months longer to bring round the payment, 
owing to the immense distance it is carried, and 
from the shortness of the seasons, which prevents 
the furs, even after they are collected, from coming 
out of the country for that period. 

The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse 
woolen cloths of different kinds ; milled blankets 
of different sizes; arms and ammunition ; twist and 
carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and 
coarse sheetings; thread, lines and twine; com- 
mon hardware ; cutlery and ironmongery of seve- 
ral descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and 
sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs ^ hats, 
shoes and hose; calicoes and printed cottons, &c. 
&c. &c. Spirituous liquors and provisions are 
purchased in Canada. These, and the expence of 

* This will be better illustrated by the following statement: 

We will suppose the goods for 1798 ; 

The orders for the goods are sent to this country 25th Oct. 17%. 

They are shipj^ed from London - - . . March 1797. 

They arrive in Montreal June 1797, 

They are made up in the course of that summer and winter. 

They are sent from Montreal - - - May 1798. 

Thex arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for 

iurs the following winter . _ . , 1798-9. 

Wh-:.,h furs come to Montreal - - - Sept. 1799. 

An' I are shipped f^ r Loudon, where they are sold in March 

and April, and paid for in May or June - - - 1800. 



xxiv A GENERAL HISTORY o 

transport to and from the Indian country, including 
wages to clerks, interpreters, guides, and canoe- 
men, with the expence of making up the goods for 
the market, form about half the annual amount 
against the adventure. 

This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends 
to the encouragement of British manufactory, 
for those who are employed in the different 
branches of this business, are enabled by their 
gains to purchase such British articles as they 
must otherwise forego. 

The produce of the year of which I am now 
speaking, consisted of the following furs and pel- 
tries : 
106,000 Beaver skins, 6000 Lynx skins, 

2100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins, 

1500 Fox skins, 1650 Fisher skins, 

4000 Kitt Fox skins, 100 Rackoon skins, 
4600 Otter skins, 3800 Wolf skins, 

17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, 
32,000 Pvlarten skins, 750 Deer skins, 

1800 Mink skins, 1200Deerskinsdressed, 

500 BuiFaio robes, and a quantity of castorum. 

Of these v/ere diverted from the British market, 
being sent through the United States to China, 
13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283 pounds; 
1250 fine otters, and 1724 kitt foxes. They would 
have found their way to the China market at any 
rate, but this deviation from the British channel 
arose from the following circumstance : 

An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a 
respectable house in London, half concerned with 
the North- West Company, in the year 1792. The 
furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the mar- 
ket; and the adventurers continued this connex- 
ion for five successive years, to the annual amount 
of forty thousand pounces. At the winding up of 
the concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xxv 

1797 (the adventure of 1796 not being included, 
as the furs were not sent to China, but disposed of 
in London), the North-West Company experienced 
aloss of upwards of ^40,000 (their half), which was 
principally owing to the difficulty of getting home 
the produce procured in return for the furs from 
China, in the East India Company's ships, together 
with the duty payable, and the various restrictions 
of that company. Whereas, from America there 
are no impediments ; they get immediately to mar- 
ket, and the produce of them is brought back, and 
perhaps sold in the course of twelve months. From 
such advantages, the furs of Canada w^ill no doubt 
find their way to China by America, which would 
not be the case if British subjects had the same pri- 
vileges that are allowed to foreigners, as London 
would then be found the best and safest market. 

But to return to our principal subject. We 
shall now proceed to consider the number of men 
employed in the concern: viz. fifty clerks, seventy- 
one interpreters and clerks, one thousand one hun- 
dred and twenty canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. 
Of these, five clerks, eighteen guides, and three 
hundred and fifty canoe- men, were employed for 
the summer season in going from Montreal to the 
Grande Portage, in canoes, part of whom pro- 
ceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be 
hereafter explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or 
Goers and Comers. These were hired in Canada 
or Montreal, and were absent from the 1st of May 
till the latter end of September. For this trip the 
guides had from eight hundred to a thousand 
livres, and a suitable equipment; the foreman and 
steersman from four to six hundred livres; the 
middle-men from two hundred and fiftv to three 
hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment of one 
blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trowsers ; and 
were maintained durnig that period at the expence 

F 



xxvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

of their employers. Independent of their wages, 
they were allowed to traffic, and many of them 
earned to the amount of their wages. About one 
third of these went to winter, and had more than 
double the above wages and equipment. All the 
winterers were hired by the year, and sometimes 
for three years ; and of the clerks many were ap- 
prentices, who were generally engaged for five 
or seven years, for which they had only one hun- 
dred pounds, provision and clothing. Such of 
them v/ho could not be provided for as part- 
ners, at the expiration of this time, were al- 
lowed from one hundred pounds to three hundred 
pounds per annum, with all necessaries, till provi- 
sion was made for them. Those who acted in 
the two-fold capacity of clerk and interpreter, or 
were so denominated, had no other expectation 
than the payment of wages to the amount of from 
one thousand to four thousand livres per annum, 
with clothing and provisions. The guides, who 
are a very useful set of men, acted also in the addi- 
tional capacity of interpreters, and had a stated 
quantity of goods, considered as sufficient for their 
wants, their wages being from one to three thou- 
spcud livres. The canoe men are of two descrip- 
tions, foremen and steersmen, and middlemen. 
The two first were allowed annually one thousand 
two hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres 
each. The first class had what is called an equip- 
ment, consisting of two blankets, two shirts, two 
pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen 
pounds of carrot tobacco, and some trifling articles. 
The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the 
other articles : those are called North Men, or 
Winterers; and to the last class of people were 
attached upwards of seven hundred Indian women 
and children, victualled at the expence of the 
company. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xxvii 

The first class of people are hired in Montreal 
five months before they set out, and receive their 
equipments, and one third of their wages in ad- 
vance; and an adequate idea of the labour they 
undergo, may be formed from the following ac- 
count of the country through which they pass, 
and their manner of proceeding. 

The necessary number of canoes being pur- 
chased, at about three hundred livres each, the 
goods formed into packages, and the lakes and 
rivers free of ice, which they usually are in the 
beginning of May, they are then dispatched from 
La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight 
or ten men in each canoe, and their baggage ; and 
sixty-five packages of goods, six hundred weight of 
biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three bushels 
of pease, for the men's provision; two oil cloths to 
cover the goods, a sail, &c. an axe, a towing-line, a 
kettle , and a sponge to bail out the w ater , w ith a quan- 
tity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair the vessel. 
An European on seeing one of these slender vessels 
thus laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale 
within six inches of the water, would think his 
fate inevitable in such a boat, when he reflected on 
the nature of her voyage; but the Canadians are 
so expert that few accidents happen. 

Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, 
within two miles of the Western extremity of the 
island of Montreal, the lake of the two mountains 
being in sight, which may be termed the com- 
mencement of the Utawas river. At the rapid of 
St. Ann they are obliged to take out part, if not 
the whole of their lading. It is from this spot 
that the Canadians consider they take their depar- 
ture, as it possesses the last church on the island, 
which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of voy- 



xxviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

The lake of the two mountains is about twenty- 
miles long, but not more than three wide, and sur- 
rounded by cultivated fields, except the Seignory 
belonging to the clergy, though nominally in 
possession of the two tribes of Iroquois and Algon- 
quins, whose village is situated on a delightful 
point of land under the hills, which, by the title of 
mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the 
extremity of the point their church is built, which 
divides the village in two parts, forming a regular 
angle along the water side. On the East is the 
station of the Algonquins, and on the West, one of 
the Iroquois, consisting in all of about five hund- 
red warriors. Each party has its missionary, and 
divine worship is performed according to the rites 
of the Roman Catholic religion, in their respective 
languages in the same church : and so assiduous 
have their pastors been, that these people have 
been instructed in reading and writing in their own 
language, and are better instructed than the Cana- 
dian inhabitants of the country of the lower ranks : 
but notwithstanding these advantages, and though 
the establishment is nearly coevel Avith the coloni- 
zation of the country, they do not advance towards 
a state of civilization, but retain their ancient 
habits, language, and customs, and are becoming 
every day more depraved, indigent, and insignifi- 
cant. The country around them, though very- 
capable of cultivation, presents only a few misera- 
ble patches of ground, sown by the women with 
maize and vegetables. During the winter season, 
they leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to 
follow the chase, according to the custom of their 
forefathers. Such is, indeed, the state of all the 
villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But 
we shall now leave them to proceed on our voy- 
age. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8.'c. xxix 

At the end of the lake the water contracts into 
the Utawas river, which, after a course of fifteen 
miles, is interrupted by a succession of rapids and 
cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of 
which the Canadian Seignories terminate ; and all 
above them were waste land, till the conclusion of 
the American war, when they were surveyed by 
order of government, and granted to the officers 
and men of the eighty-fourth regiment, when re- 
duced ; but principally to the former, and conse- 
quently little inhabited, though very capable of 
cultivation. 

The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload 
their canoes, and carry the goods upon their backs, 
or rather suspended in slings from their heads. 
Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though 
some carry three. Here the canoe is towed by a 
strong line. There are some places where the 
ground will not admit of their carrying the whole ; 
they then make two trips, that is, leave half their 
lading, and go and land it at the distance required; 
and then return for that which was left. In this 
distance are three carrying-places, the length of 
which depends in a great measure upon the state of 
the water, whether higher or lower ; from the last 
of these the river is about a mile and a half wide, 
and has a regular current for about sixty miles, 
when it ends at the first Portage de Chaudiere, 
where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, 
over cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild, ro- 
mantic manner. At a small distance below, is the 
river Rideau on the left, falling over a perpendicu- 
lar rock, near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming 
the appearance of a curtain; and from which cir- 
cumstance it derives its name. To this extent the 
lands have been surveyed, as before observed, and 
are very fit for culture. Many loyalists are settled 
upon the river Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving 



XXX A GENERAL HISTORY 

plantations. Some American families preferring 
the British territory, have also established U\em- 
selves along a river on the opposite side, where the 
soil is excellent. Nor do I think the period is far 
distant, Avhen the lands will become settled from 
this vicinity to Montreal. 

Over this portage, which is six hundred and for- 
ty-three paces long, the canoe and ail the lading is 
carried. The rock is so steep and difficult of ac- 
cess, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe 
out of the water : it is then carried by six men, two 
at each end on the same side, and two under the 
opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to 
the next is but a short distance, in which they make 
two trips to the second Portage de Chaudiere, 
which is seven hundred paces, to carry the loading 
alone. From hence to the next and last Chaudiere, 
or Portage des Chenes, is about six miles, with 
a very strong current, where the goods are carried 
seven hundred and forty paces ; the canoe being 
towed up by the line, when the water is not very 
high. We now enter Lac des Chaudieres, which 
is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though 
it is called a lake, there is a strong draught down- 
wards, and its breadth is from two to four miles. 
At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, over 
which the canoe and lading are carried two hun- 
dred and seventy-four paces; and very difficult it 
is for the former. The river is here barred by a 
ridge of black rocks, rising in pinnacles and cover- 
ed with wood, which, from the small quantity of 
soil that nourishes it, is low^ and stinted. The ri- 
ver finds its way over and through these rocks, in 
numerous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. 
From hence two trips are made through a serpen- 
tine channel, formed by the rocks, for several miles, 
when the current slackens, and is accordingly call- 
ed the Lac des Chats. To the channels of the 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. sxxi 

grand Calumet, which are computed to be at the 
distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its 
strength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, 
which is two hundred and forty-five paces long ; 
over which the canoe and baggage are transported. 
From hence the current becomes more rapid, and 
requires two trips to the Decharge des Sables*, 
where the goods are carried one hundred and thir- 
ty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then follows 
the Mountain Portage, where the canoe and lading 
are also carried three hundred and eighty-five paces; 
then to the Decharge of the Derige where the 
goods are carried two hundred and fifty paces; and 
thence to the grand Calumet. This is the longest 
carrying-place in this river, and is about two thou- 
sand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or moun- 
tain. From the upper part of this Portage the 
current is steady, and is only a branch of the Uta- 
was River, which joins the main channel, that 
keeps a more Southern course, at the distance of 
twelve computed leagues. Six leagues further it 
forms Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues 
in length ; from thence it proceeds through the 
channels of the AUumettes to the decharge, where 
part of the lading is taken out, and carried three 
hundred and forty-two paces. Then succeeds the 
Portage des AUumettes, which is but twenty-five 
paces, over a rock difficult of access, and at a very 
short distance from Decharge. From Portage de 
Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, 
and the land in many places very fit for cultivation. 
From hence the river spreads wide, and is full of 
islands, with some current for seven leagues, to 
the beginning of Rii^iere Crense^ or Deep River, 
which runs in the form of a canal, about a mile 

* The place where the goods alone are carried, is called a Decharge, and 
that where goods and canoes are both transpoited, overland, is denomi- 
nated a Portaire. 



xxxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

and a half wide, for about thirty- six miles; bounded 
upon the North by very high rocks, with low land 
on the South, and sandy ; it is intercepted again 
by falls and cataracts, so that the Portages of the 
two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hun- 
dred and twenty-six paces, the next seven hun- 
dred and twenty, and both very bad roads. From 
hence is a steady current of nine miles to the river 
du Moine, where there has generally been a trad- 
ing house; the stream then becomes strong for 
four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, which re- 
quires two trips, A little way onward is the De- 
charge, and close to it, the Portage of the Roche 
Capitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces 
in length. From hence two trips are made through 
a narrow channel of the Roche Capitaine, made by 
an island four miles in length. A strong current 
now succeeds, for about six leagues to the Por- 
tage of the two rivers, which is about eight hun- 
dred and twenty paces; from thence it is three 
leagues to the Dechargeof the Trou, which is three 
hundred paces. Near adjoining is the rapid of 
Levellier; from whence, including the rapids of 
Mataw^oen, where there is no carrying-place, it is 
about thirty- six miles to the forks of the same name; 
in latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. 
West, and is at the computed distance of four hun- 
dred miles from Montreal. At this place the Pe- 
tite Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter river 
comes from a North- Westerly direction, forming 
several lakes in its course. The principal of them 
is Lake Temescamang, where there has always 
been a trading post, which may be said to conti- 
nue, by a succession of rivers and lakes, upwards 
of fifty leagues from the Forks, passing near the 
waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48i. 
which is received by the Moose River, that emp- 
ties itself into James's Bay. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xxxiii 

The Petite Riviere takes a SouthWest direc- 
tion, is full of rapids and cataracts to its source, 
and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, in 
the course of which are the following interruptions 
— The Portage of Plein Champ, three hundred 
and nineteen paces ; the Decharge of the Rose, 
one hundred and forty-five paces ; the Decharge 
of Campion, one hundred and eighty-four paces ; 
the Portage of the Grosse Roche, one hundred 
and fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux, four 
hundred and two paces ; the Portage of Priarie, 
two hundred and eighty- seven paces ; the Portage 
of La Cave, one hundred paces ; Portage of Ta- 
lon, tvvo hundred and seventy-five paces ; which, 
for its length, is the worst on the communication; 
Portage Pin de Musique, four hundred and fifty- 
six paces ; next to this, is mauvais de Musique, 
where many men have been crushed to death by the 
canoes, and others have received irrecoverable in- 
juries. The last in this river is the Turtle Por- 
tage, eighty-three paces, on entering the lake of 
that name, where, indeed, the river may be said to 
take its source. At the first vase from whence to the 
great river, the country has the appearance of hav- 
ing been over-run by fire, and consists, in general, 
of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage 
which is the height of land, between the waters of 
the St. Laurance and the Utawas, is one thousand 
five hundred and thirteen paces to a small canal in 
a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded 
canoe about one mile to the next vase, which is 
seven hundred and twenty- five paces. It would 
be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is 
dammed in the beaver fashion, to float the canoes 
to this barrier, through which they pass, when the 
river is just sufficient to bear them through a swamp 
of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and 
twenty-four paces iu length. Though the river 



xxxiv A GENERAL HISTORY 

is increased in this part, some care is necessarj'- to 
avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about six 
miles is the lake Nepisingui, which is computed 
to be twelve leagues long, though the route of the 
canoes is something more: it is about fifteen 
miles wide in the widest part, and bounded with 
rocks. Its inhabitants consist of the remainder of 
a numerous converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of 
the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere 
des Frangois, over rocks of a considerable height. 
In a bay to the East of this, the road leads over the 
Portage of the Chaudiere des Frangois, over rocks 
of a considerable height. In a bay to the East of 
this, the road leads over the Portage of the Chau- 
diere des Francois, five hundred and forty-four 
paces, to still water. It must have acquired the 
name of Kettle, from a great number of holes in 
the solid rock of a cylindrical form, and not un- 
like that culinary utensil. They are observable in 
many parts along strong bodies of water, and where, 
at certain seasons, and distinct periods, it is 
well known the water inundates ; at the bottom 
of them are generally found a number of small 
stones and pebbles. This circumstance justi- 
fies the conclusion, that at some former period 
these rocks formed the bed of a branch of the 
discharge of this lake, although some of them are 
upwards of ten feet above the present level of the 
w^ater at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to 
be seen along every great river throughout this 
wide extended country. The French river is very 
irregular, both as to its breaddi and form, and is so 
interspersed with islands, that in the whole course 
of it the banks are seldom visible. Of its various 
channels, that which is generally followed by the 
canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, 
viz. des Pins, fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty- 
six paces; Parisienne, one hundred paces: Reco- 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Etc. xxxv 

let, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feausille^ 
twenty-five paces. In several parts there are guts 
or channels, where the water flows with great ve- 
locity, which are not more than twice the breadth 
of a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is esti- 
mated at twenty-five leagues, which this river en- 
ters in the latitude 45. 55. North, that is, at the 
point of land three or four miles within the lake. 
There is hardly a foot of soil to be seen from one 
end of the French river to the other, its banks 
consisting of hills of entire rock. The coast of 
the lake is the same, but lower, backed at . some 
distance by high lands. The course runs through 
numerous islands to the North of West to the ri- 
ver Tessalon, computed to be about fifty leagues 
from the French river, and which I found to be in 
latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence cross- 
ing, from island to island, the arm of the lake that 
receives the water of Lake Superior (which con-, 
tinues the same course), the route changes to the 
South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing 
the end of the island of St. Joseph, within six miles 
of the former place. On that island there has 
been a military establishment since the upper posts 
were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; 
and is the Westernmost military position which 
we have in this country. It is a place of no trade, 
and the greater part, if not the Vvdiole of the Indi- 
ans, come here for no other purpose but to receive 
the presents which our government annually al- 
lows them. They are from the American territo- 
ry (except about thirty families, who are the 
inhabitants of the lake from the French river, and 
of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their pel- 
tries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimak- 
inac, but principally with British subjects. The 
Americans pay them very little attention, and tell 
them that they keep possession of their country by 



xxxvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

right of conquest : that, as their brothers, they 
will be friends with them while they deserve it; 
and that their traders will bring them every kind 
of goods they require, which they may procure by 
their industry. 

Our commanders treat them in a very different 
manner, and, under the character of the represen- 
tatives of their father; (which parental title the 
natives give to his present Majesty, the common 
father of all his people) present them with such 
things as the actual state of their stores will 
allow. 

How far this conduct, if continued, may, at a 
future exigency, keep these people in our interest, 
if they are even worthy of it, is not an object of 
my present consideration : at the same time, I 
cannot avoid expressing my perfect conviction, 
that it would not be of the least advantage to our 
present or future commerce in that country, or to 
the people themselves; as it only tends to keep 
many of them in a state of idleness about our 
military establishments. The ammunition which 
they receive is employed to kill game, in order to 
procure rum in return, though their families may 
be in a starving condition : hence it is, that, in 
consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their 
numbers are in a very perceptible state of diminu- 
tion. 

From the Detour to the island of Michilimaki- 
nac, at the confluence of the Lakes Huron and 
Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty 
miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Supe- 
rior, the north shore from the river Tessalon 
should be followed; crossing to the North- West 
end of St. Joseph, and passing between it and the 
adjacent islands, which makes a distance of fifty 
miles to the fail of St. Mary,, at the foot of which, 
upon the South shore, there is a village, formerly 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cg. xxxvii 

a place of great resort for the inhabitants of Lake 
Superior, and consequently of considerable trade : 
it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and re- 
duced to about thirty families, of the Algonquin 
nation, who are one half of the year starving, and 
the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve Cana- 
dians, who have been in the Indian country from 
an early period of life, and intermarried with the 
natives who have brought them families. Their 
inducement to settle there, was the great quantity 
of white fish that are to be taken in and about the 
falls, with very little trouble, particularly in the 
autumn, when that fish leaves the lakes, and comes 
to the running and shallow waters to spawn. 
These, when salt can be procured, are pick- 
led just as the frost sets in, and prove very^ 
good food with potatoes, which they have of 
late cultivated with success. The natives live 
chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by 
the tails, and preserve throughout the winter, 
or at least as long as they last; for whatever 
quantity they may have taken, it is never known 
that their oeconomy is such as to make them last 
through the winter, which renders their situation 
very distressing ; for if they had activity sufficient 
to pursue the labours of the chase, the woods are 
become so barren of game, as to afford them no 
great prospect of relief. In the spring of the year, 
they and the other inhabitants make a quantity of 
sugar from the maple tree, which they exchange 
with the traders for necessary articles, or carry it 
to Michilimakinac, where they expect a better 
price. One of these traders was agent for the 
North- West Company, receiving, storing, and for- 
warding such articles as come by the way of the 
lakes upon their vessels : for it is to be observed, 
that a quantity of their goods are sent by that route 
from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the entrance 



sxxviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Ni« 
agara, then over land ten miles to a water commu- 
nication, by boats, to Lake Erie, where they are 
again received into vessels, and carried over that 
lake up the river Detroit, through the lake and 
river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from thence to 
the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed 
and carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped 
over Lake Superior to the Grande Portage. This 
is found to be a less expensive method than by ca- 
noes, but attended with more risk, and requiring 
more time, than one short season of this country 
will admit ; for the goods are always sent from 
Montreal the preceding fall; and besides, the com- 
pan}^ get their provisions from Detroit, as flour 
and Indian corn ; as also considerable supplies 
from Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, 
&c. &c. 

For the purpose of conveying all these things, 
they have two vessels upon the Lakes Erie and 
Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty to 
seventy tons burthen. This being, therefore, the 
depot for transports, the Montreal canoes, on their 
arrival, were forwarded over Lake Superior, with 
only five men in each; the others were sent to 
Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were 
required to prosecute the trade, and then take a 
lading there, or at St. Mary's, and follow the others. 
At length they ail arrive at the Grande Portage, 
which is one hundred and sixty leagues from St. 
Mary's, coastways, and situated on a pleasant bay 
on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North, 
and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where 
the compass has not above five degrees East va- 
riation. 

At the entrance of the bay is an island which 
screens the harbour from every wind except the 
South. The shallowness of the water, however. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cc. xxxix 

renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near 
a mile from the shore, where there is not more 
than fourteen feet water. This lake justifies the 
name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. 
Mary, which, is its Northern extremity, being in 
latitude 46. 31. North, and in longitude, 84. West, 
where there is no variation of the compass what- 
ever, while its Southern extremity, at the River 
St. Louis, is in latitude 46. 45. North, aud longi- 
tude 92. 10. West: its greatest breadth is one 
hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference, 
including its various bays, is not less than one 
thousand two hundred miles. Along its North 
shore is the safest navigation, as it is a continued 
mountainousembankment of rock, from three hun- 
dred to one thousand five hundred feet in height. 
There are numerous coves and sandy bays to land, 
which are frequently sheltered by islands from the 
swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at 
the distance of one hundred miles to the Eastward 
of the Grande Portage, and is called the Pays Plat. 
This seems to have been caused by some con- 
vulsion of nature, for many of the islands display a 
composition of lava, intermixed with round stones 
of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding 
rock is generally hard, and of a dark blue- grey, 
though it frequently has the appearance of iron and 
copper. The South side of the lake, from Point 
Shagoimigo East, is almost a continual straight 
line of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky pre- 
cipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to an hun- 
dred feet in height, without a bay. The embank- 
ments from that point Westward are, in general, of 
strong clay, mixed v/ith stones, which renders the 
navigation irksome and dangerous. On the same 
side, at the River Tonnagan, is found a quantity of 
virgin copper. The Americans, soon after they got 
possession of that country, sent an engineer thither; 



xl A GENERAL HISTORY 

and I should not be surprised to hear of their em- 
ploying people to work the mine. Indeed, it might 
be well worthy the attention of the British subjects 
to work the mines on the North coast, though they 
are not supposed to be so rich as diose on the 
South. 

Lake Superior is the largest and most magnifi* 
cent body of fresh water in the world : it is clear 
and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in a 
great variety of fish, which are the most excellent 
of their kind. There are trouts of three kinds, 
weighing from five to fifty pounds, sturgeon, 
pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, 
herrings, &:c. Sec. and the last, and best of all, the 
Ticamang, or white fish, which weighs from four 
to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior quality in 
these waters. 

This lake may be denominated the grand reser- 
voir of the River St. Laurence, as no considerable 
rivers discharge themselves into it. The principal 
ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, .the Pic, and 
the Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country 
from which any of them flow, or take their course, 
in any direction, cannot admit of it, in consequence 
of the ridge of land that separates them from the 
rivers that empty themselves into Hudson's- Bay, 
the gulph of Mexico, and the waters that fall in 
Lake Michegan, which afterward become a part of 
the St. Laurence. 

This vast collection of water is often covered 
with fog, particularly when the wind is from the 
East, which, driving against the high barren rocks 
on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents 
of rain. It is very generally said, that the storms 
on this lake are denoted by a swell on the prece- 
ding day; but this circumstance did not appear 
from my observation to be a regular phenomenon, 
as the swells more regularly subsided without any 
subsequent wind. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xli 

Along the surrounding rocks of this immense 
lake, evident marks appear of the decrease of its 
water, by the lines observable along them. The 
space, however, between the highest and the low- 
est, is not so great as in the smaller lakes, as it 
does not amount to more than six feet, the former 
being very faint. 

The inhabitants that are found along the coast 
of this w^ater, are all of the Algonquin nation, the 
whole of which do not exceed 150 families.* 

These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from 
what has been said of the country, it cannot be ex- 
pected to abound in animals, as it is totally desti- 
tute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. 
The rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, 
and the stinted timber which once grew there, is 
frequently seen lying along the surface of them : 
but it is not easy to be reconciled, that any thing 
should grow where there is so little appearance of 
soil. Between the fallen trees there are briars, 
with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspber- 
ries, Sec. which invite the bears in greater or lesser 
numbers, as they are a favourite food of that ani- 
mal : beyond these rocky banks are found a few 
moose and fallow deer. The waters alone are 
abundantly inhabited. 

A very curious phenomenon was observed some 
years ago at the Grande Portage, for w^hich no ob- 
vious cause could be assigned. The water with- 
drew with great precipitation, leaving the ground 
dry that had never before been visible, the fall be- 
ing equal to four perpendicular feet, and rushing 
back with great velocity above the common mark. 
It continued thus falling and rising for several 

* In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the Soiidi of this 
lake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate, that about 
this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted, emigrated to the 
Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake Superior. Few of their 
descendants ai-e now remaining, and not a trace of the religion communi- 
cated to them is to be discovered. 

H 



xlii A GENERAL HISTORY 

hours, gradually decreasing till it stopped at its 
usual height. There is frequently an irregular 
influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten 
inches, and is attributed to the wind. 

The bottom of the bay which forms an amphi- 
theatre, is cleared of wood and inclosed ; and on 
the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or four 
hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of 
a still greater altitude, is the fort, picketed in with 
cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing houses built with 
wood and covered with shingles. They are calcu- 
lated for every convenience of trade, as well as to 
accommodate the proprietors and clerks during 
their short residence there. The North men live 
under tents : but the more frugal pork -eater lodges 
beneath his canoe. The soil immediately border- 
ing on the lake has not proved very propitious, as 
nothing but potatoes have been found to answer the 
trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is pro- 
bably owing to the cold damp fogs of the lake, and 
the moisture of the ground from the springs that 
issue from beneath the hills. There are meadows 
in the vicinity that yield abundance of hay for the 
cattle ; but, as to agriculture, it has not hitherto 
been an object of serious consideration. 

I shall now leave these geographical notices, to 
give some further account of the people from Mon- 
treal. — When they are arrived at the Grande Port- 
age, which is near nine miles over, each of them 
has to carry eight packages of such goods and pro- 
visions as are necessary for the interior country. 
This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently 
perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were 
tried by the company without success. They are 
only useful for light, bulky articles ; or for trans- 
porting upon sledges, during the winter, whatever 
goods may remain there, especially provision, of 
which it is usual to have a year's stock on hand. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xliii 

Having finished this toilsonae part of their duty, 
if more goods are necessary to be transported, they 
are allowed a Spanish dollar for each package : 
and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that 
I have known some of them set off with two pack- 
ages of ninety pounds each, and return with two 
others of the same weight, in the course of six 
hours, being a distance of eighteen miles over hills 
and mountains. This necessary part of the busi- 
ness being over, if the season be early they have 
some respite, but this depends upon the time the 
North men begin to arrive from their winter quar- 
ters, which they commonly do early in July. At 
this period, it is necessary to select from the pork- 
eaters, a number of men, among whom are the re- 
cruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the North 
canoes necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy 
lake, the goods and provision requisite for the 
Athabasca country ; as the people of that country, 
(owing to the shortness of the season and length of 
the road, can come no further), are equipped 
there, and exchange ladings with the people of 
whom we are speaking, and both return from 
whence they came. This voyage is performed in 
the course of a month, and they are allowed pro- 
portionable wages for their services. 

The north men being arrived at the Grande 
Portage, are regaled with bread, pork, butter, 
liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not entered 
into agreements during the winter, which is cus- 
tomary are contracted with, to return and perform 
the voyage for one, two, or three years; their 
accounts are also settled, and such as choose to 
send any of their earnings to Canada, receive drafts 
to transmit to their relations or friends ; and as 
soon as they can be got ready, which requires no 
more than a fortnight, ihey are again dispatched to 
their respective departments. It is, indeed, very 



xliv A GENERAL HISTORY 

creditable to them as servants, that though they 
are sometimes assembled to the number of twelve 
hundred men, indulging themselves in the free 
use of liquor, and quarrelling with each other, 
they always shew the greatest respect to their em- 
ployers, who are comparatively but few in num- 
ber, and beyond the aid of any legal power to 
enforce due obedience. In short, .a degree of sub- 
ordination can only be maintained by the good 
opinion these men entertain of their employers, 
which has been uniformly the case, since the trade 
has been formed and conducted on a regular sys- 
tem. 

The people being dispatched to their respective 
winter- quarters, the agents from Montreal, assisted 
by their clerks, prepare to return there, by getting 
the furs across the portage, and re-making them 
into packages of one hundred pounds weight each, 
to send them to Montreal; where they commonly 
arrive in the month of September. 

The mode of living at the Grande Portage, is as 
follows: The proprietors, clerks, guides, and in- 
terpreters, mess together, to the number of some- 
times an hundred, at several tables, in one large 
hall, the provision consisting of bread, salt pork, 
beef, hams, fish, and venison, butter, peas, Indian 
corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine. Sec. and plenty 
of milk, for which purpose several milch cows are 
constantly kept. The mechanics have rations of 
such provision, but the canoe-men, both from the 
North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, 
or in the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. 
The corn for this purpose is prepared before it 
leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali, 
which takes off the outer husk : it is then well 
washed, and carefully dried upon stages, when it 
is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled for two 
hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water ; 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Scl. xlv 

to which, when it has boiled a small time, are add- 
ed two ounces of melted suet ; this causes the corn 
to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty 
thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt, 
(but not before it is boiled, as it w ould interrupt the 
operation) it makes a w^holesome, palatable food, 
and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully suffi- 
cient for a man's subsistence during twenty-four 
hours ; though it is not sufficiently heartening to 
sustain the strength necessary for a state of active 
labour. The Americans call this dish hominee*. 
The trade from the Grande Portage, is, in some 
particulars, carried on in a different manner with 
that from Montreal. The canoes used in the 
latter transport are now too large for the former, 
and some of abouLiialf the size are procured from 
the natives, and are navigated by four, five, or six 
men, according to the distance which they have 
to go. They carry a lading of about thirty-five 
packages, on an average ; of these twenty-three are 
for the purpose of trade, and the rest are employed 
for provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of 
these canoes are a foreman and steersman ; the 
one to be always on the look out, and direct the 
passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the 
helm. They also carry her, whenever that office 
is necessary. The foreman has the command, 
and the middle-men obey both ; the latter earn 
only tw^o- thirds of the w^ages w^hich are paid the 
two former. Independent of these, a conductor or 
pilot is appointed to every four or six of these ca- 
noes, whom they are all obliged to obey ; and is, 
or at least is intended to be, a person of superior 
experience, for which he is proportionably paid. 



* Com is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the 
expence of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, at 
tlie Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance dees not exceed ten-pence 



xlvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the 
North side of the portage, on the river Au Tourt, 
which is very inconsiderable; and after about two 
miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the 
Partridge Portage, six hundred paces long. In the 
spring this makes a considerable fall, when the 
water is high, over a perpendicular rock of one 
hundred and twenty feet. From thence the river 
continues to be shallow, and requires great care to 
prevent the bottom of the canoe from being injured 
by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and 
an half to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the 
lading is taken out, and carried by part of the crew, 
while two of them are conducting the canoe among 
the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf 
Portage, three miles and a half more, when they 
unload, and come back two miles, and embark what 
was left for the other hands to carry, which they 
also land with the former ; all of which is carried 
six hundred and eighty paces, and the canoe led 
up against the rapid. From hence the water is 
better calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a 
winding course to the North of West three miles 
to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, 
and every thing in her, is carried for two thousand 
four hundred paces. At the further end is a very 
high hill to descend, over which hangs a rock up- 
wards of seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds 
the Outard Lake, about six miles long, lying in 
a North- West course, and about two miles wide 
in the broadest place. 

After passing a very small rivulet, they come to 
the Elk Portage, over which the canoe and la- 
ding are again carried one thousand one hundred 
aii.d twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the 
same name, which is an handsome piece of water, 
running North- West about four miles, and not 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xlvii 

more than one mile and an half wide^. They then 
land at the Portage de Cerise, over which, and in 
the face of a considerable hill, the canoe and cargo 
are again transported for one thousand and fifty- 
paces. This is only separated from the second Por- 
tage de Cerise, by a mud-pond (where there is 
plenty of water lillies), of a quarter of a mile in 
length; and this is again separated by a similar 
pond, from the last Portage de Cerise, which is four 
hundred and ten paces. Here the same operation is 
to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces. 
They next enter on the Mountain Lake, running 
North-West by West six miles long, and about 
two miles in its greatest breadth. In the centre of 
this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by 
which I never passed, but an edequate notion may 
be formed of it from the road I am going to des- 
cribe, and which is universally preferred. This is 
first, the small new portage over which every thing 
is carried for six hundred and twenty-six paces, 
over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked 
on a narrow line of water, that meanders South- 
West about tw^o miles and an half. It is necessary 
to unload here, for the length of the canoe, and then 
proceed West half a mile, to the new Grande Por- 
tage, which is three thousand one hundred paces in 
length, and over very rough ground, which re- 
quires the utmost exertions of the men, and fre- 
quently lames them : from hence they approach the 
Rose Lake, the portage of that name being op- 
posite to the junction of the road from the Moun- 
tain Lake. They then embark on the Rose Lake, 
about one mile from the East end of it, and 
steer West by South, in an oblique course, across 
it two miles, then North-West passing the Pe- 
tite Peche to the Marten Portage three miles. 

* Here is a most excellent fishery for vrhite fish, which arc exquisite. 



xlviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and 
slime, with about three or four feet of water 
over it ; and here I frequently struck a canoe 
pole of twelve feet long, without meeting any 
other obstruction than if the whole were water : 
it has, however, a peculiar suction or attractive 
power, so that it is difficult to paddle a canoe 
over it. There is a small space along the South 
shore, where the water is deep, and this effect is 
not felt. In proportion to the distance from this 
part, the suction becomes more powerful : I have, 
indeed been told that loaded canoes have been in 
danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed 
their preservation to other canoes, which were 
lighter. I have, myself, found it very difficult to 
get away from this attractive power, with six men, 
and great exertion, though we did not appear to 
be in any danger of sinking. 

Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on 
the South side, called Marten Portage, which is 
but twenty paces long, and separated from the 
Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty 
paces by a mud-pond, covered with white lillies. 
From hence the course is on the lake of the same 
name. West- South- West three miles to the height 
of land, where the waters of the Dove or Pigeon 
River terminate, and which is one of the sources 
of the great St. Laurence in this direction. Having 
carried the canoe and lading over it, six hundred 
and seventy-nine paces, they embark on the 
lake of Hauteur de Terre*, which is in the 
shape of an horse-shoe. It is entered near the 
curve, and left at the exremity of the Western 



* The route which we have been travelling hitherto, leads along the 
high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of the 
country offers a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by stony 
vallies, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it is well cover- 
«d with trees. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xlix 

limb, through a very shallow channel, where the 
canoe passes half loaded for thirty paces with the 
current, which conducts these waters till they dis- 
charge themselves, through the succeeding lakes 
and rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river Nel- 
son, into Hudson's-Bay. The first of these is 
Lac de pierres a fusil, running West- South- West 
seven miles long, and two wide, and making an 
angle at North- West one mile more, becomes a ri- 
ver for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and form- 
ing a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty- 
five paces ; but from hence it is neither lake or 
river, but possesses the character of both, and runs 
between large rocks, which cause a current 
or rapid for about tw^o miles and an half, West- 
North- West, to the portage of the Cheval du Bois. 
Here the canoe and contents are carried three hun- 
dred and eighty paces, between rocks ; and within 
a quarter of a mile is the Portage des Gros Pins, 
which is six hundred and forty paces over a high 
ridge. The opposite side of it is washed by a 
small lake three miles round; and the course is 
through the East end or side of it, three quarters 
of a mile North-East, where there is a rapid. An 
irregular meandering channel, between rock}^ 
banks, then succeeds, for seven miles and an half, 
to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North four 
miles, and is three quarters of a mile wide, termi- 
nating by a rapid and decharge of one hundred and 
eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, 
which causes a fall of about seven feet, and a por- 
tage of fifty-five paces. 

Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous 
islands. Its greatest length from East to West is 
about fourteen miles, with very irregular inlets, is 
no Vv'here more than three miles wide, and termi- 
nates at the small portage of Le Roche, of forty- 
three paces. From thence is a rocky, stony pas- 

I 



I A GENERAL HISTORY 

sage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very 
improperly named, as there is no ground about it 
that answers to that description, except a small 
spot at the embarking place at the West end : to 
the East is an entire bog ; and it is with great dif. 
ficulty that the lading can be landed upon stages, 
formed by driving piles into the mud, and spread- 
ing branches of trees over them. The portage 
rises on a stony ridge, over which the canoe and 
cargo must be carried for six hundred and eleven 
paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on 
a small bay, where the bottom is the same as has 
been described in the West end of Rose Lake, and 
it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is work- 
ed over it, but it does not comprehend more than 
a distance of two hundred yards. From hence the 
progress continues through irregular channels, 
bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for about 
live miles, to the little Portage des Couteaux, of 
one hundred and sixty-five paces, and the Lac des 
Couteaux, rimning about South- West by West 
twelves miles, and from a quarter to two miles 
wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from the 
West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, 
and after running two miles West, it . again be- 
comes still w^ater. In this river are two carrying 
places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred 
and ninety paces. From this to the Portage des 
Carpes is one mile North- West, leaving a narrow 
lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lac des 
Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carry- 
ing-place, which is used when the v/ater in the 
river last mentioned is too low. The Portage des 
Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from 
whence the v/ater spreads irregularly between 
rocks, five miles North- West and South-East to 
the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hun- 
dred and eighty paces. Then follows the lake of 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. U 

that name, but I think improperly so called, as the 
natives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, 
or lake of Dry Berries. 

Before the small pox ravaged this country, and 
completed, what the Nodowasis, in their warfare, 
had gone far to accomplish, the destruction of its 
inhabitants, the population was very numerous : 
this was also a favourite part, where they made their 
canoes, &c. the lake abounding in fish, the coun- 
try round it being plentifully supplied with various 
kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the 
boundaries of the water, covered with a variety of 
berries. 

When the French were in possession of this 
country, they had several trading establishments 
on the islands and banks of this lake. Since that 
period, the few people remaining, who were of the 
Algonquin nation, could hardly find subsistence ; 
game having become so scarce, that they depended 
principally for food upon fish and wild rice, which 
grows spontaneously in these parts. 

This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost 
extent from East to West is fifteen miles; a point 
of land, called Point au Pin, jutting into it, divides 
it in two parts : it then makes a second angle at 
the West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, 
two hundred paces in length. This channel is 
not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids in 
the course of a mile : it runs West-North- West to 
the Portage des Pins, over which the canoe and lad- 
ing is again carried four hundred paces. From hence 
the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous 
rapids, for two miles Westerly, to the point of 
Pointe du Bois, which is two hundred and eighty 
paces. Then succeeds the portage of La Croche 
one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty 
paces, and is followed by an embarkation on that 
lake, which takes its name from its figure. It ex- 



lii A GENERAL HISTORY 

tends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and 
in a westerly direction ; it is in general very nar- 
row, and at about two- thirds of its length becomes 
very contracted, with a strong current. 

Within three rniles of the last Portage is a re- 
markable rock, with a smooth face, but split and 
cracked in different parts, which hang over the 
water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great 
number of arrows have been shot, which is said to 
have been done by a war party of the Nadowasis 
or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this 
country, and left these weapons as a warning to 
the Chebois or natives, that, notwithstanding its- 
lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to 
their enemies. 

Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de 
Rideau, four hundred paces long, and derives its 
name from the appearance of the water, falling 
over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several 
rapids succeed, with intervals of still water, for 
about three miles to the Flacon portage, which is 
very difficuU, is four hundred paces long, and 
leads to the Lake of La Croix, so named from its 
shape. It runs about North-West eighteen miles 
to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay 
nearly East. The course to the Portage is West 
b3/ North for sixteen miles more from the Beaver 
Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was 
frequented by the French, and followed through 
lakes and rivers until they came to Lake Superior 
by the river Caministiquia, thirty miles East of 
the Grand Portage. 

Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to 
the next portage is a quarter of a mile, and its 
length is fort}' paces; the river winding four miles 
to VermilHon Lake, which runs six or seven miles 
North-North- West, and by a narrow strait com- 
municates with Lake Namaycan, which takes its 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. liii 

name from a particular place at the foot of a fall, 
where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is 
about North-North- West and South- South- East, 
with a bay running East, that gives it the form of 
a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to the 
Nouvelle Portage. 

The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, 
and the portage one hundred eighty paces, to which 
succeeds a very small river, from whence there is 
but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage, 
three hundred and twenty paces long. It is then 
necessary to embark on a swamp, or overflowed 
country, where wild rice grows in great abun- 
dance. There is a channel or small river in the 
centre of this swamp, which is kept with difficulty, 
and runs South and North one mile and a half. 
With deepening water, the course continuesNorth- 
North-West one mile to the Chaudiere Portage, 
which is caused by the discharge of the waters 
running on the left of the road from Lake Namay- 
can, which used to be the common route, but that 
which I have described is the safest as well as 
shortest. From hence there is some current though 
the water is wide spread, and its course about 
North by West three miles and an half to the Lac 
de la Pluie, which lies nearly East and West; from 
thence about fifteen miles is a narrow strait that 
divides the lake into two unequal parts, from 
whence to its discharge is a distance of twenty- 
four miles. There is a deep bay running North- 
West on the right, that is not included, and is re- 
markable for furnishing the natives with a kind of 
soft, red stone, of which they make their pipes; it 
also affords an excellent fishery both in the sum- 
mer and winter; and from it is an easy, safe, and 
short road to the Lac du Bois, (which I shall men- 
tion presently) for the Indians to pass in their small 
canoes, through a small lake and on a small river. 



liv A GENERAL HISTORY 

whose banks furnish abundance of wild rice. The 
discharge of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie 
River, at whose entrance there is a rapid below^ 
which is a fine bay, where there had been an exten- 
sive picketted fort and building when possessed by 
the French : the site of it is at present a beautiful 
meadow, surrounded with groves of oaks. From 
hence there is a strong current for two miles, 
where the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, 
from the consequent turbulence of the water, the 
carrying-place, which is three hundred and twenty 
paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two 
miles onward is the present trading establishment, 
situated on an high bank on the North side of the 
river, in 48. 37. North latitude. 

Here the people from Montreal come to meet 
those who arrive from the Athabasca country, as 
has been already described, and exchange lading 
with them. This is also the residence of the first 
chief, or Sachem, of all the Algonquin tribes, in- 
habiting the different parts of this country. He is 
by distinction called Nectam, which implies per- 
sonal pre-eminence. Here also the elders meet in 
council to treat of peace or war. 

This is one of the finest rivers in the North- 
West, and runs a course West and and East one 
hundred and twenty computed miles; but in tak- 
ing its course and distance minutely I make it only 
eighty. Its banks are covered with a rich soil, 
particularly to the North, which, in many parts, 
are clothed with fine open groves of oak, v/ith the 
maple, the pine, and the cedar. The Southern 
bank is not so elevated, and displays the maple, the 
white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, the al- 
der, and various underwood. Its waters abound in 
fish, particularly the sturgeon, which the natives 
both spear and take with drag-nets. But notwith- 
standing the promise of this soil, the Indians do 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. It 

not attend to its cultivation, though they are not 
ignorant of the common process, and are fond of 
the Indian corn, when they can get it from us. 

Though the soil at the fort is a stiif clay, there 
is a garden, which, unassisted as it is by manure, 
or any particular attention, is tolerably productive. 

We now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, 
into which this river discharges itself in latitude 
49. North, and was formerly famous for the rich- 
ness of its banks and waters, which abounded with 
whatever was necessary to a savage life. The 
French had several settlements in and about it; 
but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal 
circumstance had destroyed the game, as war and 
the small pox had diminished the inhabitants, it 
having been very unproductive in animals since 
the British subjects have been engaged in travel- 
ling through it; though it now appears to be re- 
covering its pristine state. The few Indians who 
inhabit it, might live very comfortably, if they 
were not so immoderately fond of spirituous li- 
quors. 

This lake is also rendered remarkable, in con- 
sequence of the Americans having named it as the 
spot, from which a line of boundary, between them 
and British America, was to run West, until it 
struck the Mississippi: which, however, can 
never happen, as the North- West part of the Lac 
du Bois, is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 
94. 31. West, and the Northernmost branch of 
the source of the Mississippi is in latitude 47. 38. 
North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by 
Mr. Thomson, astronomer to the North- West 
Company, who was sent expressly for that pur- 
pose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same 
year, determined the Northern bend of the Mis- 
sisoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and longi- 
tude 101. 25. West; and, according to the Indian 



Ivi A GENERAL HISTORY 

accounts, it runs to the south of West, so that if 
the Mississoury were even to be considered as 
the Mississippi, no Western line could strike it. 

It does not appear to me to be clearly deter- 
mined what course the Line is to take, or from 
what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the 
country to the Lac du Bois : were it to follow the 
principal waters to their source, it ought to keep 
through Lake Superior to the River St. Louis, and 
follow that river to its source; close to which is 
the source of the waters falling into the river of 
Lac la Pluie, which is a common route of the In- 
dians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis passes 
within a short distance of a branch of the Missis- 
sippi, where it becomes navigable for canoes. 
This will appear more evident from consulting the 
map ; and if the navigation of the Mississippi is 
considered as of any consequence by this country, 
from that part of the globe, such is the nearest way 
to get at it. 

But to return to our narrative. The Lac du 
Bois is, as far as I could learn, nearly round, and 
the canoe course through the centre of it among a 
cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive 
that they may be taken for the main land. The 
reduced course would be nearly South and North. 
But following the navigating course, I make the 
distance seventy-five miles, though in a direct line 
it would fall very short of that length. At about 
two-thirds of it there is a small carrying-place, 
when the water is low. The carrying-place out 
of the Lake is on an island, and named Portage du 
Pv.at, in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 15. 
West, it is about fifty paces long. The lake dis- 
charges itself at both ends of this island, and 
forms the River Winipic, which is a large body of 
water, interspersed with numerous islands, caus- 
ing various channels and interruptions of portages 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cc. Mi 

and rapids. In some parts it has the appearance 
of lakes, with steady currents ; I estimate its wind- 
ing course to the Dalies eight miles; to the Grand 
Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, which is 
a long carrying-place for the goods; from thence 
to the litde Decharge one mile and an half; to the 
Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then 
to its galet seventy yards; two miles and three 
quarters to the Terre Blanche, near which is a 
fall of from four to five feet; three miles and an 
half to Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading- 
post, and, about eleven miles, on the north shore, 
a trading establishment, which is the roaH, in 
boats, to Albany River, and from thence to Hud- 
son's Bay. There is also a communication with 
Lake Superior, through what is called the Nipigan 
country, which enters that Lake about thirty-five 
leagues East of the Grande Portage. In short, 
the country is so broken by lakes and rivers, that 
people may find their way in canoes in any direc- 
tion they please. It is now four miles to Portage 
de L'Isle, which is but short, though several ca- 
noes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid. 
From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's 
Falls, which are about fifteen feet high; and six 
miles and an half to the woody point; forty yards 
from which is another Portage. They both form 
an high fall, but not perpendicular. From thence 
to another galet, or rocky Portage, is about two 
miles, which is one continual rapid and cascade; 
and about two miles further is the Chute a I'Es- 
clave, which is upwards of thirty feet. The Por- 
tage is long, through a point covered with wood: 
it is six miles and an half more to the barrier, and 
ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From thence, on 
the North side, is a safe road, when the waters 
are his-h, throusch small rivers and lakes, to the 
Lake du Bonnet, called the Pmnawas, from the 



Iviii A GENERAL HISTdRY 

man who discovered it: to the White River, so 
called from its being, for a considerable length, a 
succession of falls and cataracts, is twelve miles. 
Here are seven portages, in so short a space, that 
the whole of them are discernible at the same mo- 
ment. From this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen 
miles more, and four miles across it to the rapid. 
Here the Pinnawas road joins, and from thence it 
is two miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from 
this to the Galet du Bonnet one mile and an half; 
thence to the Portaore of the same name is three 
miles. This portage is near half a league in length, 
and derives its name from a custom the Indians 
have of crowning stones, laid in a circle, on the 
highest rock in the portage, with wreaths, of her- 
bage and branches. There have been examples 
of men taking seven packages of ninety pounds 
each, at one end of the portage, and putting them 
down at the other without stopping. 

To this, another small portage immediately suc- 
ceeds, over a rock producing a fall. From thence 
to the fall of Terre Blanche, is two miles and an 
half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent 
is three miles ; to the next, of the same name, is 
but a few yards distant ; to the third and last, 
which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; 
and from this to the last Portage of the river, one 
mile and an half; and to the establishment, or pro- 
vision house, is two miles and an half. Here also 
the French had their principal inland depot, and 
got their canoes made. 

It is here, that the present traders, going to 
great distances, and where provision is difficult to 
procure, receive a supply to carry them to the 
Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the estab- 
lishment to the entrance of Lake Winipic, is four 
miles and an half, latitude 50. 37. North. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. lix 

The country, soil, produce, and climate, from 
Lake Superior to this place; bear a general resem- 
blance, with a predominance of rock and water : 
the former is of the granite kind. Where there is 
any soil it is well covered with wood, such as 
oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple of two 
kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which 
are what I call the cypress, with the hickory, 
iron-wood, liard, poplar, cedar, black and white 
birch, &:c. Sec. Vast quantities of wild rice are 
seen throughout the country, which the natives 
collect in the month of August for their winter 
stores.^ To the North of fifty degrees, it is hardly 
known, or at least does not come to maturity. 

Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several 
large rivers, and discharges itself by the River 
Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in rotation, 
next to that I have just described, is the Assini- 
boin, or Red River, which, at the distance of forty 
miles coastwise, disembogues on the South-West 
side of the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives 
those tVvO denominations from its dividing, at the 
distance of about thirty miles from the lake, into 
two large branches. The Eastern branch, called 
the Red River, runs in a Southern direction to 
near the head waters of the Mississippi. On this 
are two trading establishments. The country on 
either side is but partially supplied with wood, and 
consists of plains covered v/ith herds of the buffalo 
and elk, especially on the Western side. On the 
Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole 
country is well wooded, level, abounding in bea- 
ver, bears, moose-deer, fallow-deer, &c. Sec. The 
natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, are not 
very numerous, and are considered as the natives 



* The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plumbs, and clicnlc-s, ha- 
zlenuts, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, poires, occ. 



Ix A GENERAL HISTORY 

of Lake Superior. This country being* near the 
Mississippi, is also inhabited by the Nadowasis, 
who are the natural enemies of the former; the 
head of the water being the war-line, they are 
in a continual state of hostility ; and though the 
Algonquins are equally brave, the others generally 
out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, 
that if the latter continue to venture out of the 
woods, which form their only protection, they will 
soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a finer 
country in the world for the residence of uncivil- 
ised man, than that which occupies the space be- 
tween this river and Lake Superior. It abounds 
in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts 
of such a people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with 
wild rice, are in great plenty; while, at the same 
time, their subsistence requires that bodily exer- 
cise so necessary to health and vigour. 

This great extent of country was formerly very 
populous, but from the information I received, the 
aggregate of its inhabitants does not exceed three 
hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I 
saw, it appeared to me that the widows were more 
numerous than the men. The rackoon is a native 
of this country, but is seldom found to the North- 
ward of it. 

The other branch is called after the tribe of the 
Nadowasis, who here go by the name of Assini- 
boins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It 
runs from the North-North- West, and in the lati- 
tude of 51. 15. West, and longitude 103. 20. 
rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin, 
of which I shall speak in due order. They must 
have separated from their nation at a time beyond 
our knowledge, and live in peace with the Algon- 
quins and Knisteneaux. 

The country between this and the Red River, 
is almost a continual plain to the Missisoury. The 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixi 

soil is sand and gravel, with a slight intermixture 
of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are 
very rare ; nor are there on the banks of the river 
sufficient, except in particular spots, to build 
houses and supply fir€-wood for the trading estab- 
lishments, of which there are four principal ones. 
Both these rivers are navigable for canoes to their 
source, without a fall; though in some parts there 
are rapids, caused by occasional beds of lime- 
stone, and gravel; but in general they have a sandy 
bottom. 

The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall, or Big- 
bellied Indians, are the principal inhabitants of this 
country, and border on the river, occupying the 
centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and 
about its source, being the station of the Algon- 
quins and Knisteneaux, who have chosen it in 
preference to their own country. They do not 
exceed five hundred families. They are not bea- 
ver hunters, which accounts for their allowing the 
division just mentioned, as the lovvcr and upper 
parts of this river have those animals, which are 
not found in the intermediate district. They con- 
fine themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trap- 
ping w^olves, which cover the country. What they 
do not want of the former for raiment and food, 
they sometimes make into pemmican, or pounded 
meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the 
skins in their hair, for winter. The wolves thev 
never eat, but produce a tallow^ from their fat, and 
prepare their skins ; all which they bring to ex- 
change for arms and ammunition, rum, tobacco, 
knives, and various baubles, with those who go to 
traffic in their country. 

The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the 
contrary, attend to the fur-hunting, so that they 
acquire the additional articles of cloth, blankets, 



Ixii A GENERAL HISTORY 

&c. but their passion for rum often puts it out of 
their power to supply themselves with real neces- 
saries. 

The next river of magnitude is the river Dau- 
phin, which empties itself at the head of St. 
Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Win- 
ipic, latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its source 
in the same mountains as the last-mentioned river, 
as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers, the lat- 
ter passing through the lake of the same name, as 
well as the former, and both continuingtheir course 
through the Manitoba Lake, which, from thence, 
runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine 
miles of the R.ed River, and by what is called the 
river Dauphin, disembogues its waters, as already 
described, into that lake. These rivers are very 
rapid, and interrupted by fails. Sec. the bed being 
generally rocky. All this country, to the South 
branch of the Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, 
moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, buffaloes, 
Sec. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts 
have been made to raise the esculent plants, &c. 
it has been found productive. 

On these waters are three principal forts for 
trade. Fort Dauphin, which was established by 
the French before the conquest. Red- Deer Ri- 
ver, and Swan- River Forts, with occasional de- 
tached posts from these. The inhabitants are the 
Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic ; 
and Algonquins from the country between the 
Red River and Lake Superior ; and some from the 
Rainy Lake : but as they are not fixed inhabitants, 
their number cannot be determined : they do not, 
however, at any time exceed two hundred warri- 
ors. In general they are good hunters. There is 
jio other considerable river except the Saskatchi- 
wine, which 1 shall mention presently, that emp- 
ties itself into the Lake Winipic, 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. Ixiii 

Those on the North side are inconsiderable, 
owing to the comparative vicinity of the high 
land that separate the waters coming this way, 
from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The 
course of the lake is about West-North- West and 
South-South-East, and the East end of it is in 50. 
37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its 
length to a strait, in latitude 51. 45. and is no more 
than two miles broad, where the South shore is 
gained through islands, and crossing various bays 
to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 
53. 15. This lake in common with those of this 
country, is bounded on the North v\^ith banks of 
black and grey rock, and on the South by a low, 
level country, occasionally interrupted with a ridge 
or bank of lime-stones, lying in stratas, and rising 
to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty 
feet ; these are covered with a small quantity of 
earth, forming a level surface, w^hich bears timber, 
but of a moderate growth, and declines to a swamp. 
Where the banks are low, it is evident in many 
places that the waters are withdrawn, and never 
rise to those heights which v/ere formerly washed 
by them. 

The inhabitants who are found along this lake, 
are of the Knisteneaux and Algonquin tribes, and 
but few in number, though game is not scarce, 
and there is fish in great abundance. The black 
bass is found there, and no further West; and be- 
yond it no maple trees are seen, either hard or 
soft. 

On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of 
a few miles, the great rapid interrupts the passage. 
It is about three miles long. Through the great- 
est part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, 
according to the state of the waters : the canoe and 
its contents are then carried one thousand one 
hundred paces. The channel here is near a mile 



Ixiv A GENERAL HISTORY 

wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks 
that traverse the river. The South bank is very 
high, rising upwards of fifty feet, of the same rock 
as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, 
and the North is not more than a third of that 
height. There is an excellent sturgeon-fishery at 
the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of pe- 
licans, cormorants, &c. frequent it, where they 
watch to seize the fish that may be killed or dis- 
abled by the force of the waters. 

About two miles from this Portage the naviga- 
tion is again interrupted by the Portage of the 
Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long ; 
and a mile and an half from thence the river is bar- 
red by a range of islands, forming rapids between 
them ; and through these it is the same distance 
to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles 
right across, and eight miles in length. Then suc- 
ceeds the Grande Decharge, and several rapids, 
for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is enter- 
ed through a small channel on the left, formed by 
an island, as going round it Avould occasion loss of 
time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have 
already been described), appear at intervals on 
either side ; the rest of the country is low. This 
is the case along the South bank of the lake and 
the islands, while the North side, which is very 
uncommon, is level throughout. This lake runs 
first West four miles, then as much more West- 
South- West, across a deep bay on the right, then 
six miles to the Point de Lievre, and across ano- 
ther bay again on the right ; then North- West 
eight miles, across a still deeper bay on the right ; 
and seven miles parallel with the North coast, 
North-North- West through islands, five miles 
more to Fort Bourbon^, situated on a small island, 
dividing this from Mud-Lake. 

* This was also a principal post cf the French, who gave it its n»me. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixv 

The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles 
wide, exclusive of the bays. Its banks are covered 
with wood, and abound in game, and its waters 
produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. 
The Mud Lake, and the neighbourhood of the Fort 
Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks, swans, &:c. 
and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of 
martens, of which it cannot now boast but a very 
small proportion. 

The Mud-Lake must have formerly been a part 
of the Cedar Lake, but the immense quantity of 
earth and sand, brought down by the Saskatchi- 
wine, has filled up this part of it for a circumfe- 
rence whose diameter is at least fifteen or twenty 
miles : part of which space is still covered with a 
few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is 
shaded with large trees, such as the Hard, the 
swamp-ash, and the willow. This land consists of 
many islands, which consequently form various 
channels, several of which are occasionally dry, and 
bearing young wood. It is, indeed, more than 
probable that this river will, in the course of time, 
convert the w^hole of the Cedar Lake into a forest. 
To the North- West the cedar is not to be found. 

From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be con- 
sidered as navigable to near its sources in the rocky 
mountains, for canoes, and without a carrying- 
place, making a great bend to Cumberland House, 
on Sturgeon Lake. From the confluence of its 
North and South branches its course is Westerly; 
spreading itself, it receives several tributary 
streams, and encompasses a large tract of country, 
which is level, particularly along the South branch, 
but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, 
whose furs are valuable, are amongst the inhabit- 
ants of the North- West branch, and the plains are 
covered with buffalos, wolves, and small foxes; 
particularly about the South branch, which, how- 



Ixvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

ever, has of late claimed some attention, as it is now 
understood, that where the plains terminate to- 
wards the rocky mountain, there is a space of hilly 
country clothed with wood, and inhabited also by 
animals of the fur kind. This has been actually 
determined to be the case towards the head of the 
North branch, where the trade has been carried to 
about the latitude 54 North, and longitude 114. 30. 
West. The bed and banks of the latter, in some 
few places, discover a stratum of free-stone; but, 
in general, they are composed of earth and sand. 
The plains are sand and gravel, covered with fine 
grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable 
earth. This is particularly observable along the 
North branch, the West side of which is covered 
with wood. 

There are on this river five principal factories 
for the convenience of trade with the natives. Ne- 
pawi House, South-branch House, Fort-George 
House, Fort- Augustus House, and Upper Estab- 
lishment. There have been many others, which, 
from various causes, have been changed for these, 
while there are occasionally others depending on 
each of them. 

The inhabitants, from the information I could 
obtain, are as follow: 

At Nepawi and South-Branch-House, about 
thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or ninety warriors ; 
and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins, 
who are their neighbours, and are equal to two 
hundred men : their hunting ground extends up- 
wards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them are 
those who trade at Forts George and Augustus, 
and are about eighty tents or upwards of Kniste- 
neaux : on either side of the river, their number 
may be two hundred. In the same country are 
one hundred and forty tents of Stone Indians: not 
quite half of them inhabit the West woody coun- 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Ike. Ixvii 

try; the others never leave the plains, and their 
numbers cannot be less than four hundred and fifty 
men. At the Southern Head- waters of the North- 
branch dwells a tribe called Sarsees, consisting of 
about thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty 
men. Opposite to those Eastward, on the head- 
waters of the South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to 
the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. 
Next to them, on the same water, are the Blood- 
Indians, of the same nation as the last, to the num- 
ber of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty 
men. From them downwards extend the Black- 
Feet Indians, of the same nation as the two last 
tribes : their number may be eight hundred men. 
Next to them, and who extend to the confluence of 
the South and North branch, are the Fall, or Big- 
bellied Indians, who may amount to about six 
hundred warriors. 

Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit 
the broken country on the North-West side, and 
the source of the North branch, are beaver-hun- 
ters ; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, 
and fox skins ; and many people on the South 
branch do not trouble themselves to come near the 
trading establishments. Those who do, choose 
such establishments as are next to their country. 
The Stone-Indians here, are the same people as 
the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit 
the river of that name already described, and both 
are detached tribes from the Nadowasis, who in- 
habit the Western side of the Mississippi, and 
lower part of the Missisoury. The Fall, or Big- 
bellied Indians, are from the South- Eastward also, 
and of a people who inhabit the plains from the 
North bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 
47. 32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the 
South bend of the Assiniboin River, to the num- 
ber of seven hundred men. Some of them occa- 



Ixviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

sionally come to the latter river to exchange dressed 
buiFalo robes, and bad wolf-skms for articles of no 
great vahie. 

The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, 
are a distinct people, speak a language of their 
own, and, I have reason to think, are travelling 
North- West, as well as the others just mentioned: 
nor have 1 heard of any Indians \\ ith whose Ian- 
guage that which they speak has any affinity. — 
They are the people who deal in horses, and take 
them upon the war-parties tov.ards Mexico ; from 
w^hich, it is evident, that the country to the South- 
East of them, consists of plains, as those animals 
could not well be conducted through an hilly and 
woody country, intersected by Avaters. 

The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear 
from their language, to come on the contrary from 
the North- West, and are of the same people as the 
Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second 
journal, who are a tribe of the Chepewyans ; and, 
as for the Knisteneaux, there is no question of their 
having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this 
country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck 
terror into all the other tribes whom they met; hut 
now they have lost the respect that was paid them ; 
as those whom they formerly considered as barba- 
rians, are now their allies, and consequently be- 
come better acquainted with them, and have ac- 
quired the use of fire-arms. The former are still 
proud without power, and affect to consider the 
others as their inferiors : those consequently are 
extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon 
their own superiority in numbers, will not submit 
tamely to their insults; so that the consequences 
often prove fatal, and the Knisteneatix are thereby 
decreasing both in power and number : spirituous 
liquors also tend to their dimintition, as ihey are 
instigated thereby to engage in quarrels which fre- 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixix 

quently have the most disastrous termination 
among themselves. 

The Stone- Indians must not be considered in 
the same point of view respecting the Knisteneaux, 
for they have been generally obliged, from various 
causes, to court their alliance. They, however, 
are iiot without their disagreements, and it is some- 
times very difficult to compose their differences. 
These quarrels occi^sionally take place with the 
traders, and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. 
They generally originate in consequence of steal- 
ing women and horses: they have great numbers 
of the latter throughout their plains, which are 
brought, as has been observed, from the Spanish 
settlements in Mexico; and many of them have 
been seen even in the back parts of this country, 
branded with the initials of their original owners 
names. Those horses are distinctly employed as 
beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. The 
former are not considered as being of much valiie^ 
as they may be purchased for a gun, which costs 
no more than twenty-one shillings in Great-Britain. 
Many of the hunters cannot be purchasec? with ten, 
the comparative value of which exceeds the pro- 
perty of any native. 

Of these useful animals no care whatever is ta- 
ken, as when they are no longer employed, they, 
are turned loose winter and summer to provide 
for themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that 
the country, in general, on the West and North 
side of this great river, is broken by the lakes and 
rivers with small intervening plains, where the 
soil is good, and the grass grows to some length. 
To these the male buffilo^ resort for the winter, 
and if it be very severe, the females also are oblig- 
ed to leave the plains. 

But to return to the route hv which the prop'^ess 
West and North is made thiough this continent. 



Ixx A GENERAL HISTORY 

We leave the Saskatchiwine* by entering the 
river which forms the discharge of the Sturgeon 
Lake, on whose East bank is situated Cumber- 
land house, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 
102. 15. The distance between the entrance and 
Cumberland house is estimated at twenty miles. 
It is very evident that the mud which is carried 
down by the Saskatchiwine River, has formed 
the land that lies between it and the lake, for the 
distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of 
the river, which is inundated during one half of 
the summer, thouoii covered with Avood. This 
lake forms an irregular horse -shoe, one side of 
which runs to the North-West, and bears the 
name of Pine-Island Lake, and the other known 
by the name already mentioned, runs to the East 
of North, and is the largest : its length is about 
twenty- seven miles, and its greatest breadth about 
six miles. The North side of the latter is the 
same kind of rock as that described in Lake Wi- 
nipic, on the West shore. In latitude 54. 16. 
North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges itself 
into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the 
same kind of rock, and is almost a continual ra- 
pid. Its direct course is about West by North, 
and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It 
takes its waters into the Beaver Lake, the South- 
West side of which consists of the same rock ly- 
ing in thin stratas : the route then proceeds from 
island to island for about twelve miles, and along 
the North shore, for four miles more, the whole 
being a North-West course to the entrance of a 
river, in latitude 54. 32. North. The lake, for 



* It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements 
upon the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada ; 
the first at the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, 
where they had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of 
both being found about those establishments, where the soil is excellent. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cc. Ixxi 

this distance, is about four or five miles wide, and 
abounds with fish common to the country. The 
part of it upon the right of that which has been 
described, appears more considerable. The isl- 
ands are rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by 
rocks. The communication from hence to the 
Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into rivers and 
spreads into small lakes. The interruptions are, 
the Pente Portage, which is succeeded by the 
Grand Rapid, where there is a Decharge, the Carp 
Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude 54. 50. 
North, including a distance, together with the 
windings, of thirty-four miles, in a Westerly di- 
rection. The Lake de Bouleau then follows. This 
lake might with greater propriety, be denominat- 
ed a canal, as it is not more than a mile in breadth. 
Its course is rather to the East of North for twelve 
miles to Portage de LTsle. From thence there is 
still w^ater to Portage d'Epinettes, except an ad- 
joining rapid. The distance is not more than four 
miles Westerly. After crossing this Portage, it 
is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which 
is in latitude 55. 7. North. Its length is about 
twelve miles, and its breadth irregular, from two 
to ten miles. It is only separated from Lake du 
Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, 
and small strait. That lake is not more than se- 
ven miles long, and its course about North- West. 
The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage to 
which is through small lakes, separated by falls 
and rapids. The first is a Decharge : then follow 
the three galets, in immediate succession. From 
hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. 
Its course is South-South-East, and North-North- 
West, and is full of islands. The passage conti- 
nues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and 
shallow channel for eight miles. The interrup- 
lions in this distance are frequent, but depend 



Ixxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

much on the state of the waters. Having passed 
them, it is necessary to cross the Portage de 
Traite, or, as it is called by the Indians, Athiqui- 
sipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the 
Stretched Frog- Skin, to the Missinipi. The wa- 
ters already described discharge themselves into 
Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river 
Nelson. These which we are now entering are 
called the Missinipi, or great Churchill River. 

All the country to the South and East of this, 
within the line of the progress that has been de- 
scribed, is interspersed by lakes, hills, and rivers, 
and is full of animals, of the fur-kind, as well as 
the moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Kniste- 
neaux Indians, who are called by the servants of 
the Hudson's Bay Company, at York, their home- 
guards. 

The traders from Canada succeeded for several 
years in getting the largest proportion of their furs, 
till the year 1 793 , when the servants of that company 
thought proper to send people amongst them, (and 
Vvhv thev did not do it before is best known to 
themselves), for the purpose of trade, and secur- 
ing their credits, which the Indians were apt to 
forget. From the short distance they had to come, 
and the quantity of goods they supplied, the trade 
has, in a great measure, reverted to them, as the 
merchants from Canada could not meet them upon 
equal terms. What added to the loss of the latter, 
was the murder of one of their traders, by the In- 
dians, about this period. Of these people not 
above eighty men have been known to the traders 
from Canada, but they consist of a much greater 
number. 

The Portage de Traite, as has been already 
hinted, received its name from Mr. Joseph Fro- 
bisher, who penetrated into this part of the coun- 
try from Canada, as early as the years 1774 and 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxiii 

1775, where he met with the Indians in the spring, 
on their way to Churchill, according to annual 
custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. 
They traded with him for as many of them as his 
canoes could carry, and in consequence of this 
transaction, the Portage received and has since re- 
tained its present appellation. He also denomina- 
ted these waters the English River. The Missi- 
nipi, is the name which it received from the 
Knisteneaux, when they first came to this country, 
and either destroyed or drove back the natives, 
whom they held in great contempt, on many ac- 
counts, but particularly for their ignorance in 
hunting the beaver, as well as in preparing, stretch- 
ing, and drying the skins of those animals. And 
as a sign of their derision, they stretched the skin 
of a frog, and hung it up at the Portage. This 
was, at that time, the utmost extent of their con- 
quest or war faring progress West, and is in lati- 
tude 55, 25. North, and longitude 103. 45. West. 
The river here, which bears the appearance of a 
lake, takes its name from the Portage, and is full 
of islands. It runs from East to West about six- 
teen miles, and is from four to five miles broad. 
Then succeed falls and cascades which form what 
is called the grand rapid. From thence there is a 
succession of small lakes and rivers, interrupted 
by rapids and falls, viz. the Portage de Bareel, the 
Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid River. 
The course is twenty miles from East- South- East 
to North-North- West. The Rapid- River Lake 
then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form. 
The rapid river is the discharge of Lake la Ronge, 
where there has been an establishment for trade 
from the year 1782. Since the small pox ravaged 
these parts, there have been but few inhabitants ; 
these are of the Knisteneaux tribe, and do not 
exceed thirty men. The direct navigation con- 

M 



Ixxiv A GENERAL HISTORY 

tinues to be through rivers and canals, interrupt- 
ed by rapids ; and the distance to the first De- 
charge is four miles, in a Westerly direction. 
Then follows Lake de la Montague, which runs 
South- South- West three miles and an half, then 
North six miles, through narrow channels, form- 
ed by islands, and continues North-North -West 
five miles, to the portage of the same name, which 
is no sooner crossed, than another appears in 
sight, leading to the Otter Lake, from whence it 
is nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in 
latitude 55. 39. Between this and the Portage du 
Diable, are several rapids, and the distance three 
miles and an half. Then succeeds the lake of the 
same name, running from South- East to North- 
West, five miles, and West four miles and an 
half. 

There is then a succession of small lakes, ra- 
pids, and falls, producing the Portage des Ecors, 
Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the 
whole comprehending a distance of six miles, to 
the lake of the latter name. On the left side is a 
point covered with human bones, the relics of the 
small pox ; which circumstance gave the Portage 
and the lake this melancholy denomination. Its 
course is South-West fifteen miles, while its 
breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence 
a rapid river leads to Portage de Hallier, which is 
followed by Lake de L'Isle d'Ours: it is, howe- 
ver, improperly called a lake, as it contains fre- 
quent impediments amongst its islands, from ra- 
pids. There is a very dangerous one about the 
centre of it, which is named the Rapid qui ne parle 
point, or that never speaks, from its silent whirl- 
pool-motion. In some of the whirlpools the suc- 
tion is so powerful, that they are carefully avoid- 
ed. At some distance from the silent rapid, is a 
narrow strait, where the Indians have painted red 



OF THE FDR TRADE, Sec. Ixxv 

figures on the face of a rock, and where it was their 
custom formerly to make an offering of some of 
the ardcles which they had with them, in their 
way to and from Churchill. The course in this 
lake, which is very meandering, may be estima- 
ted at thirty-eight miles, and is terminated by the 
Portage du Canot Tourner, from the danger to 
which those are subject who venture to run this 
rapid. From thence a river of one mile and an 
half North- West course leads to the Portage de 
Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des 
Epingles, so called from the sharpness of its stones. 
Then follows the Lake des Souris, the direction 
across which is amongst islands. North- West by 
West six miles. In this traverse is an island, which 
is remarkable for a very large stone, in the form of 
a bear, on which the natives have painted the head 
and snout of that animal; and here they also were 
formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This lake 
is separated only by a narrow strait from the Lake 
du Serpent, which runs North-North -West seven 
miles, to a narrow channel, that connects it with 
another lake, bearing the same name, and running 
the same course for el-even miles, when the rapid 
of the same denomination is entered on the West 
side of the lake. It is to be remarked here, that 
for about three or four miles on the North- West 
side of this lake, there is an high bank of clay and 
sand, clothed with cypress trees, a circumstance 
which is not observable on any lakes hitherto men- 
tioned, as they are bounded, particularly on the 
North, by black and grey rocks. It may also be 
considered as a most extraordinary circumstance, 
that the Chepewyans, go North- West from hence 
to the barren grounds, which are their own country, 
without the assistance of canoes; as it is well 
knov/n that in every other part which has been 
•described, from Cumberland House, the country 



Ixxvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

is broken on either side of the direction to a great 

extent: so that a traveller could not go at right 
angles with any of the waters already mentioned, 
without meeting with others in every eight or ten 
miles. This will also be found to be very much 
the case in proceeding to Portage la Loche. 

The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three 
miles long, North- West by West; there is, how- 
ever, no carrying, as the line and poles are suffi- 
cient to drag and set the canoe against the current. 
Lake Croche is then crossed in a Westerly direc- 
tion of six miles, though its whole length may be 
twice that distance : after which it contracts to a 
river that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it 
forms a bend, which is left to the South, and en- 
tering a portion of its waters called the Grass 
River, whose meandering course is about six 
miles, but in a direct line not more than half that 
length, where it receives its waters from the great 
river, which then runs Westerly eleven miles be- 
fore it forms the Knee Lake, whose direction is to 
the North of West. It is full of islands for eigh- 
teen miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is not 
more than five miles. The portage of the same 
name is several hundred yards long, and over large 
stones. Its latitude is 55, 50. and longitude 106. 
30. Two miles further North is the commence- 
ment of the Croche Rapid, which is a succession 
of cascades for about three miles, making a bend 
due South to the Lake du Primeau, whose course 
is various, and through islands, to the distance of 
about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake are 
low, stony, and marshy, whose grass and rushes 
afford shelter and food to great numbers of wild 
fowl. At its Western extremity is Portage la 
Puise, from whence the river takes a mxCandering 
course, widening and contracting at intervals, and 
is much interrupted by rapids. After a Westerly 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. IxxtH 

couf se of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. 
From hence, in the course of seven miles, are 
three rapids, to which succeeds the Shagoina 
Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumfe- 
rence. Then Shagoina strait and rapid lead into 
the Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in which the course 
is South twenty miles, and South- South- West 
fourteen miles, to the Point au Sable , opposite to 
which is the discharge of the Beaver-River, bear- 
ing South six miles: the lake in the distance run, 
does not exceed twelve miles in its greatest breadth. 
It now turns West- South- West, the Isle a la Crosse 
being on the South, and the main land on the 
North ; and it clears the one and the other in the 
distance of three miles, the water presenting an 
open horizon to right and left; that on the left 
formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues 
in depth ; and that to the right by what is called 
la Riviere Creuse, or Deep River, being a canal of 
still water, which is here four miles wide. On 
following the last course. Isle a la Crosse Fort ap- 
pears on a low isthmus, at the distance of five 
miles, and is in latitude 55. 25. North, and longi- 
tude 107. 48. West. 

This lake and fort take their names from the 
island just mentioned, which, as has been already 
observed, received its denomination from the game 
of the cross, which forms a principal amusement 
among the natives. 

The situation of this lake, the abundance of the 
finest fish in the world to be found in its waters, 
the richness of its surrounding banks and forests, 
in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers 
of the smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are 
precious, and the numerous flocks of wild fowl 
that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it a 
most desirable spot for the constant residence of 
some, and the occasional rendezvous of others of 



Ixxviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

the inhabitants of the country, particularly of the 
Knisteneaux. 

Who the original people were that were driven 
from it, when conquered by the Knisteneaux is 
not now known, as not a single vestige remains of 
them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the 
only people that have been known here ; and it is 
evident that the last- mentioned consider themselves 
as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three 
or four years, without visiting their relations and 
friends in the barren grounds, which they term 
their native country. They were for some time 
treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies ; who now 
allow them to hunt to the North of the track which 
has been described, from Fort du Traite upwards, 
but when they occasionally meet them, they insist 
on contributions, and frequently punish resistance 
with their arms. This is sometimes done at the 
forts, or places of trade, but then it appears to be 
a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on 
the occasion, which the Chepewyans on no other 
account ever purchase ; and those only who have 
had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux 
have any inclination to drink it. 

When the Europeans first penetrated into this 
country, in 1777, the people of both tribes were 
numerous, but the small pox was fatal to them all, 
so that there does not exist of the one, at present, 
more than forty resident families ; and the other 
has been from about thirty to two hundred fami- 
lies. These numbers are applicable to the con- 
stant and less ambitious inhabitants, who are satis- 
lied with the quiet possession of a country afford- 
ing, without risk or much trouble, every thing 
necessary to their comfort ; for since traders have 
spread themselves over it, it is no more the ren- 
dezvous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom 
iised annually to return thither from the country 



OF THE rUR TRADE, Sec. Ixxix 

of the Beaver River, which they had explored to 
its course in their war and hunting excursions, 
and as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they some- 
times met people of their own nation, who had 
prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In 
that country they found abundance of fish and ani- 
mals, such as have been already described, with 
the addition of the buffalos, who range in the par- 
tial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers 
and lakes. From thence they returned in the 
spring to their friends whom they had left; and, at 
the same time met with others who had penetrated 
with the same designs, into the Athabasca coun- 
try, which will be described hereafter. 

The spring was the period of this joyful meet- 
ing, when their time was occupied in feasting, 
dancing, and other pastimes, which were occa- 
sionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious so- 
lemnity : while the narratives of their travels, and 
the history of their wars, amused and animated 
the festival. The time of rejoicing was but short, 
and was soon interrupted by the necessary prepa- 
rations for their annual journey to Churchill, to 
exchange their furs for such European articles as 
were now become necessary to them. The short- 
ness of the seasons, and the great length of their 
way requiring the utmost dispatch, the most ac- 
tive men of the tribe, with their youngest women, 
and a few of their children undertook the voyage, 
under the direction of some of their chiefs, fol- 
lowing the waters already described, to their dis- 
charge at Churchill Factory, which are called, as 
has already been observed, the Missinipi, or Great 
Waters. There they remained no longer than 
was sufficient to barter their commodities, with 
a supernumerary day or tv/o to gratify them- 
selves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. 
At the same time the inconsiderable quantity they 



Uxx A GENERAL HISTORY 

could purchase to carry away with them, for a re- 
gale with their friends, was held sacred, and re- 
served to heighten the enjoyment of their return 
home, when the amusements, festivity, and re- 
ligious solemnities of the spring were repeated. 
The usual time appropriated to these conviviali- 
ties being completed, they separated, to pursue 
their different objects ; and if they were deter- 
mined to go to war, they made the necessary ar- 
rangements for their future operations. 

But we must now renew the progress of the 
route. It is not more than two miles from Isle a 
la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms 
a cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere 
Creuse, which preserves the bread di already men- 
tioned for upwards of twenty miles ; then con- 
tracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles 
more, when it opens to Lake Clear, which is 
very wide, and commands an open horizon, keep^ 
ing the West shore for six miles. The whole 
of the distance mentioned is about North West, 
when, by a narrow, crooked channel, turning 
to the South of West, the entry is made into 
Lake du Boeuf, which is contracted near the mid- 
dle, by a projecting sandy point ; independent of 
which it may be described as from six to twelve 
miles in breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a 
North- West direction. At the North- West end, 
in latitude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the ri- 
ver la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is 
very shallow, and navigated with difficulty even 
by half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient 
to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bot- 
tom the canoes are frequently in considerable dan- 
ger. Including its meanders, the course of this 
river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and 
receives its first waters from the lake of the same 
name, which is about twenty miles long, and sis: 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxi 

wide ; into which a small river flows, sufficient to 
bear loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, 
where the navigation ceases ; and the canoes, with 
their lading, are carried over the Portage la Loche 
for thirteen miles. 

This portage is the ridge that divides the 
waters which discharge themselves into Hudson's 
Bay, from those that flow into the Northern ocean, 
and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 
15. West. It runs South West until it loses its 
local height between the Saskatchiwine and Elk 
Rivers ; close on the bank of the former, in lati- 
tude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, 
it may be traced in an Easterly direction toward 
latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude 103f . West, 
when it appears to take its course due North, and 
may probably reach the Frozen Seas. 

From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers 
and lakes display a smaller portion of solid rock. 
The land is low and stony, intermixed with a 
light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That 
of the Beaver River is of a more productive qua- 
lity : but no part of it has ever been cultivated by 
the natives or Europeans, except a small garden 
at the Isle a la Crosse, which well repaid the la- 
bour bestowed upon it. 

. The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in 
some parts abounding with stones, but in general 
it is an entire sand, and covered with the cypress, 
the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to 
its soil. Within three miles of the North- West 
termination, there is a small round lake, whose 
diameter does not exceed a mile, and which af> 
fords a trifling respite to the labour of carrying. 
Within a mile of the termination of the Portage 
is a very steep precipice, whose ascent and de- 
scent appears to be equally impracticable in any 
way, as it consists of a succession of eight hills, 

N 



Ixxxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

some of which are ahnost perpendicular ; never- 
theless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all 
these difficulties, even with their canoes and la- 
ding. 

This precipice, which rises upwards of a thou- 
sand feet above the plain beneath it, commands a 
most extensive, romantic, and ravishing prospect. 
From thence the eye looks down on the course of 
the little river, by some called the Swan river, 
and by others, the Clear- Water and Pelican river, 
beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. 
The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorn- 
ed by it, is about three miles in breadth, and is 
confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, dis- 
playing a most delightful intermixture of wood 
and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist ob- 
scures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining 
heights are covered with stately forests, relieved 
by promontories of the finest verdure, where the 
elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted 
by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and 
left a dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld 
this wonderful display of uncultivated nature, was 
the moving scenery of human occupation wanting 
to complete the picture. From this elevated situ- 
ation, I beheld my people, diminished, as it were, 
to half their size, employed in pitching their tents 
in a charming meadow, and among the canoes, 
which, being turned upon their sides, presented 
their reddened bottoms in contrast with the sur- 
rounding verdure. At the same time, the process 
of gumming them produced numerous small spires 
of smoke, which, as they rose, enlivened the 
scene, and at length blended with the larger co- 
lumns that ascended from the fires where the sup- 
pers were preparing. It was in the month of Sep- 
ternber when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not 
presume to give an adequate description ; and as 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxiii 

it was the rutting season of the elk, the whistling 
of that animal was heard in all the variety which 
the echoes could afford it. 

This river, which waters and reflects such en- 
chanting scenery, runs, including its windings, 
upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges itself 
in the Elk River, according to the denomination 
of the natives, but commonly called by the white 
people, the Athabasca River, in latitude 56. 42. 
North. 

At a small distance from Portage la Loche, seve- 
ral carrying-places interrupt the navigation of the 
river; about the middle of which are some mine- 
ral springs, whose margins are covered with sul- 
phureous incrustations. At the junction or fork, 
the Elk River is about three quarters of a mile in 
breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes 
contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, 
after receiving several small streams, it discharges 
itself into the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 36. 
North. At about twenty-four miles from the 
Fork, are some bitumenous fountains, into which 
a pole of twenty feet long may be inserted v/ithout 
the least resistance. The bitumen is in a fluid 
state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous 
substance collected from the spruce fir, serves to 
gum the canoes. In its heated state it emits a 
smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the 
river, which are there very elevated, discover 
veins of the same bitumenous quality. At a small 
distance from the Fork, houses have been erected 
for the convenience of trading with a party of the 
Knisteneaux, who visit the adjacent country for 
the purpose of hunting. 

At the distance of about forty miles from the 
lake, is the Old Establishment, which has been 
already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond in the 
year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this 



Ixxxiv A GENERAL HISTORY 

part of the world, till the year 1785. In the year 
1788, it was transferred to the Lake of the Hills, 
and formed on a point on its Southern side, at 
about eight miles from the discharge of the river. 
It w^as named Fort Chepewyan, and is in latitude 
58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West, and 
much better situated for trade and fishing, as the 
people here have recourse to water for their sup- 
port. 

This being the place which I made my head- 
quarters for eight years, and from whence I took 
my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give 
some account of it, with the manner of carrying on 
the trade there, and other circumstances connected 
with it. 

The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie 
about the first of August, do not arrive here till 
the latter end of September, or the beginning of 
October, when a necessary proportion of them is 
dispatched up the Peace River to trade with the 
Beaver and Rocky -Mountain Indians. Others 
are sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond 
them, and traffic with the inhabitants of that coun- 
try. A small part of them, if not left at the Fork 
of the Elk River, return thither for the Kniste- 
neaux, while the rest of the people and merchan- 
dise remain here, to carry on trade with the Che- 
pewyans. 

Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred 
men without any provision for their sustenance ; 
for whatever quantity might have been obtained 
from the natives during the summer, it could not 
be more than sufficient for the people dispatched 
to their different posts; and even if there were 
a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary 
to preserve it untouched, for the demands of the 
spring. The whole dependance, therefore, of 
those who remained, was on the lake, and fishing 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. Ixxxv 

implements for the means of our support. The nets 
are sixty fathom in length, when set, and contain 
fifteen meshes of five inches in depth. The manner 
of using them is as follows: A small stone and wood- 
en buoy are fastened tothe side-line opposite to each 
other, at about the distance of two fathoms ; when 
the net is carefully thrown into the water, the stone 
sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at 
its full extent, and it is secured in its situation by 
a stone at either end. The nets are visited every 
day, and taken out every other day to be cleaned 
and dried. This is a very ready operation when 
the waters are not frozen, but when the frost has 
set in, and the ice has acquired its greatest thick- 
ness, which is sometimes as much as five feet, 
holes are cut in it at the distance of thirty feet from 
each other, to the full length of the net; one of them 
is larger than the rest, being generally about four 
feet square, and is called the bason: by means of 
them, and poles of a proportionable length, the nets 
are placed in and drawn oat of the water. The 
setting of hooks and lines is so simple an employ- 
jnent as to render a description unnecessary. The 
white fish are the principal object of pursuit: they 
spawn in the fall of the year, and, at about the set- 
ting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the 
shallow water, when as many as possible are taken, 
in order that a portion of them may be laid by in 
the frost to provide against the scarcity of winter; 
as, during that season, the fish of every description 
decrease in the lakes, if they do not altogether dis- 
appear. Some have supposed that during this pe- 
riod they are stationary, or assume an inactive 
state. If there should be any intervals of warm 
weather during the fall, it is necessary to suspend 
the fish by the tail, though they are not so good as 
those which are altogether preserved by the frost. 
In this state they remain to the beginning of April, 



Ixxxvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

when they have been found as sweet as when they 
were caught*. 

Thus do these voyagers live, year after year, 
entirely upon fish, without even the quickening 
flavour of salt, or the variety of any farinaceous 
root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits 
had not rendered it unnecessary, might be obtain- 
ed in this country to the Westward of the Peace 
River, where it loses its name in that of the Slave 
River, from the numerous salt-ponds and springs 
to be found there, which will supply in any quan- 
tity, in a state of concretion, and perfectly white 
and clean. When the Indians pass that way they 
bring a small quantity to the fort, with other arti- 
cles of traffic. 

During a short period of the spring and fall, 
great numbers of wild fowl frequent this country, 
which prove a very gratifying food after such a 
long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, 
however, that the Canadians who frequent the 
Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin rivers, and 
live altogether on venison, have a less healthy ap- 
pearance than those whose sustenance is obtained 
from the waters. At the same time the scurvy is 
wholly unknown among them. 

In the fall of the year the natives meet the tra- 
ders at the forts, where they barter the furs or pro- 
visions which they may have procured: they then 
obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, 
and do not return till the beginning of the year; 
when they are again fitted out in the same manner 
and come back the latter end of March, or the be- 
ginning of April. They are now unwilling to 
repair to the beaver hunt until the waters are clear 



* This fishery requires the most unremitting attention, as the voy- 
aging Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, 
ivhen left to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the morrow. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, 8cc. Ixxxvii 

of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, 
which the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The 
major part of the latter return to the barren 
grounds, and live during the summer with their 
relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty 
which is derived from numerous herds of deer. 
But those of that tribe who are most partial to 
these desarts, cannot remain there in winter, and 
they are obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in 
the woods during that rigorous season, when they 
contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them by 
young men, to exchange for iron utensils and am- 
munition. 

Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent 
or carried their furs regularly to Fort Churchill, 
Hudson's-Bay ; and some of them have, since that 
time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could 
have provided themselves with all the necessaries 
which they required. The difference of the price 
set on goods here and at the factory, made it an 
object with the Chepewyans, to undertake a jour- 
ney of five or six months, in the course of which 
they were reduced to the most painful extremities, 
and often lost their lives from hunger and fatigue. 
At present, however, this traffic is in a great mea- 
sure discontinued, as they were obliged to expend 
in the course of their journey, that very ammuni- 
tion which was its most alluring object. 



Ixxxviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

SOME ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

KNISTENEAUX INDIANS. 

These people are spread over a vast extent of 
country. Their language is the same as that of 
the people who inhabit the coast of British Ame- 
rica on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Es- 
quimaux*, and continues along the coast of La- 
brador, and the gulf and banks of St. Laurence to 
Montreal, The line then follows the Utawas river 
to its source ; and continues from thence nearly- 
West along the highlands which divides the waters 
that fall into Lake Superior and Hudson's-Bay. 
It then proceeds till it strikes the middle part of 
the river Winipic, following that water through 
the Lake Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskat- 
chiwine into it ; from thence it accompanies the 
latter to Fort George, when the line, striking by 
the head of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs 
along its banks to its discharge in the Lake of the 
Hills ; from which it may be carried back East, to 
the Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the 
Missinipi. The whole of the tract between this 
line and Hudson's Bay and Straits (except that of 
the Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be 
exclusively the country of the Knisteneaux. Some 
of them indeed, have penetrated further West and 
South to the Red River, to the South of Lake 
Winipic, and the South branch of the Saskatchi- 
wine. 

They are of a moderate stature, well propor- 
tioned, and of great activity. Examples of de- 

* The similarity between their language and that of the Algonquins, 
is an unequivocal proof that they are the same people. Specimens of, I 
their respective tongues will be hereafter given. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, he. Ixxxix 

formity are seldom to be seen among them. Their 
complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair 
black, which is common to all the natives of North 
America. It is cut in various forms, according 
to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is 
left in the long, lank, flow of nature. They very 
generally extract their beards, and both sexes ma- 
nifest a disposition to pluck the hair from every 
part of their body and limbs. Their eyes are 
black, keen, and penetrating ; their countenance 
open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of 
their vanity to give every possible decoration to 
their persons. A material article in their toilettes 
is vermilion, which they contrast with their native 
blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is 
frequently added. 

Their dress is at once simple and commodious. 
It consists of tight leggins, reaching near the hip ; 
a strip of cloth or leather, called assian, about a 
foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are 
drawn inwards and hang behind and before, over 
a belt tied round the v/aist for that purpose : a 
close vest or shirt reaching down to the former 
garment, and cinctured with a broad strip of 
parchment fastened with thongs behind ; and a 
cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or 
small skin, wuth the brush of the animal as a sus- 
pended ornament : a kind of robe is thrown occa- 
sionally over the whole of the dress, and serves 
both night and day. These articles, with the ad- 
dition of shoes and mittens, constitute the variety 
of their apparel. The materials vary according 
to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin, 
beaver prepared with the fur, or European wool- 
lens. The leather is neatly painted, and fanciful- 
ly worked in some parts with porcupine quills, 
and moose-deer hair : the shirts and leggins are 
also adorned with fringe and tassels j nor are the 



xc A GENERAL HISTORY 

shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropri- 
ate decoration, and worked with a considerable 
degree of skill and taste. These habiliments are 
put on, however, as fancy or convenience sug- 
gests ; and they will sometimes proceed to the 
chase in the severest frost, covered only with the 
slightest of them. Their head-dresses are com- 
posed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, and 
other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of dif- 
ferent animals, are also the occasional ornaments 
of the head and neck. Their hair, however ar- 
ranged, is always besmeared with grease. The 
making of every article of dress is a female occu- 
pation ; and the women, though by no means in- 
attentive to the decoration of their own persons, 
appear to have a still greater degree of pride in at- 
tending to the appearance of the men, whose faces 
are painted with more care than those of the wo- 
men. 

The female dress is formed of the same mate- 
rials as those of the other sex, but of a different 
make and arrangement. Their shoes are com- 
monly plain, and their leggins gartered beneath 
the knee. The coat, or body covering, falls down 
to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the 
shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down 
about eight inches, both before and behind, and 
agreeably ornamented with quill -work and fringe ; 
the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted 
as high as the knee. As it is very loose, it is en- 
closed round the waist with a stiff belt, decorated 
with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are 
covered to the wrist, v/ith detached sleeves, which 
are sewed as far as the bend of the arm ; from 
thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the 
corners of them fall down behind, as low as the 
waist. The cap, when they wear one, consists 
of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xci 

at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, 
and, hanging down the back, is fastened to the 
beh, as well as under the chin. The upper gar- 
ment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their 
hair is divided on the crown, and tied behind, or 
sometimes fastened in large knots over the ears. 
They are fond of European articles, and prefer 
them to their own native commodities. Their 
ornaments consist in common with all savages, in 
bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of 
the women tatoo three perpendicular lines, which 
are sometimes double : one from the centre of the 
chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on 
either side to the corner of the mouth. 

Of all the nations which I have seen on this 
continent, the Knisteneaux women are the most 
comely. Their figure is generally well propor- 
tioned, and the regularity of their features would 
be acknowledged by the more civilized people of 
Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark 
tinge which is common to those savages who have 
less cleanly habits. 

These people are, in general, subject to few 
disorders. The lues venerea, however, is a com- 
mon complaint, but cured by the application of 
simples, with whose virtues they appear to be 
well acquainted. They are also subject to fluxes, 
and pains in the breast, which some have attri- 
buted to the very cold and keen air which they in- 
hale ; but I should imagine that these complaints 
must frequently proceed from their immoderate 
indulgence in fat meat at their feasts, particularly 
when they have been preceded by long fasting. 

They are naturally mild and affable, as well as 
just in their dealings, not only among themselves, 
but with strangers.* They are also generous and 

* They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justice 
be attributed to them, it may be traced to their connection with the civi- 
lized people who come into their country to traffic. 



1 



xcil A GENERAL HISTORY 

hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, ex- 
cept when their nature is perverted by the inflam- 
matory influence of spiritous liquors, To their 
children they are indulgent to a fault. The father, 
though he assumes no command over them, is ever 
anxious to instruct them in all the preparatory qua- 
lifications for wsir and hunting; while the mother 
is equally attentive to her daughters in teaching 
them every thing that is considered as necessary to 
their character and situation. It does not appear 
that the husband makes any distinction between 
the children of his wife, though they may be the 
offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only 
attached to those who are born before their mothers 
have cohabited with any man by the title of hus- 
band. 

It does not appear, that chastity is considered by 
them as a virtue; or that fidelity is believed to be 
essential to the happiness of wedded life. Though 
it sometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is 
punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, 
nose, and perhaps life; such severity proceeds from 
its having been practised without his permission: 
for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncom- 
mon: and the offer of their persons is considered 
as a necessary part of the hospitality due to stran- 
gers. 

When a man loses his wife, it is considered as 
a duty to marry her sister, if she has one; or he 
Biay, if he pleases, have them both at the same 
time. 

It will appear from the fatal consequences I have 
repeatedly imputed to the use of spirituous liquors 
that I more particularly consider these people as 
having been, morally speaking, great suflPerers from 
their communication with the subjects of civilized 
nations. At the same time they were not, in a 
state of nature, without their vices, and some of 



OF THE FUR TRADE, kc. xciii 

them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cul- 
tivated and reflecting man. I shall only observe, 
that incest and bestiality are among them. 

When a young man marries, he immediately goes 
to live with the father and mother of his wife, who 
treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect stranger, till 
after the birth of his first child: he then attaches 
himself more to them than his own parents ; and 
his wife no longer gives him any other denomina- 
tion than that of the father of her child. 

The profession of the men is war and hunting, 
and the more active scene of their duty is the field 
of battle, and the chase in the woods. They also 
spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to 
the women. The females of this nation are in the 
same subordinate state with those of all other sa- 
vage tribes, but the severity of their labour is much 
diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes 
and rivers, where they employ canoes. In the 
winter, when the waters are frozen, they make 
their journeys, which are never of any great 
length, with sledges drawn by dogs. They are, 
at the same time, subject to every kind of domes- 
tic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the 
clothes and shoes, weave the nets, collect wood, 
erect the tents, fetch water, and perform every cu- 
linary service; so that when the duties of mater- 
nal care are added, it will appear, that the life of 
these women is an uninterrupted succession of toil 
and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they enter- 
tain of their own situation; and under the influ- 
ence of that sentiment, they are sometimes known 
to destroy their female children, to save them 
from the miseries which they themselves have 
suffered. They also have a ready way, by the 
use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, 
which they sometimes practise, from their hatred 
of the father, or to save themselves the trouble 



xciv A GENERAL HISTORY 

which children occasion: and, as I have been 
credibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated 
without any injury to the health of the women 
who perpetrate it. 

The funeral ritesbegin,like all other solemn cere- 
monials, with smoking, and are concluded byafeast. 
The body is dressed in the best habiliments pos- 
sessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is 
then deposited in a grave lined with branches ; 
some domestic utensils are placed on it, and a 
kind of canopy erected over it. During this cere- 
mony, great lamentations are made, and if the de- 
parted person is very much regretted, the near 
relations cut off their hair, pierce the fleshy part 
of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, &c. 
and blacken their faces with charcoal. If they 
have distinguished themselves in war, they are 
sometimes laid on a kind of scaffolding ; and I 
have been informed, that women, as in the East, 
have been known to sacrifice themselves to the 
manes of their husbands. The whole of the 
property belonging to the departed person is de- 
stroyed, and the relations take in exchange for the 
wearing apparel, any rags that will cover their 
nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, 
which is, or at least used to be, repeated annually, 
is accompanied with eulogiums on the deceased, 
and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb 
are carved or painted the symbols of his tribe, 
which are taken from the different animals of the 
country. 

Many and various are the motives which induce 
a savage to engage in war. To prove his cou- 
rage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or 
some of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. 
If the tribe feel themselves called upon to go to 
war, the elders convene the people, in order to 
know the general opinion. If it be for war, the 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xcv 

chief publishes his intention to smoke in the sacred 
stem at a certain period, to which solemnity, me- 
ditation and fasting are required as preparatory 
ceremonials. When the people are thus assem- 
bled, and the meeting sanctified by the custom of 
smoking, the chief enlarges on the causes which 
have called them together, and the necessity of 
the measures proposed on the occasion. He then 
invites those who are willing to follow him, to 
smoke out of the sacred stem, which is considered 
as the token of enrolment; and if it should be the 
general opinion, that assistance is necessary, others 
are invited, with great formality, to join them. 
Every individual who attends these meetings, 
brings something with him as a token of his war- 
like intention, or as an object of sacrifice, which, 
when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from 
poles near the place of council. 

They have frequent feasts, and particular cir- 
cumstances never fail to produce them, such as a 
tedious illness, long fasting, &c. On these occa- 
sions it is usual for the person who means to give 
the entertainment, to announce his design, on a 
certain day, of opening the medicine-bag, and 
smoking out of his sacred stem. This declara- 
tion is considered as a sacred vow that cannot 
be broken. There are also stated periods, such 
as the spring and autumn, when they engage in 
very long and solemn ceremonies. On these oc- 
casions dogs are oiFered as sacrifices, and those 
which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. 
They also make large offerings of their property, 
whatever it may be. The scene of these ceremo- 
nies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a river 
or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in 
order that such as are passing along or travelling, 
may be induced to make their offerings. There 
is also a particular custom among them, that, on 



3tcvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

these occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a 
stranger, should be passing by, and be in real 
want of any thing that is displayed as an offering, 
he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it 
with some article he can spare, though it be of 
far inferior value ; but to take or touch anything 
wantonly is considered as a sacrilegious act, and 
highly insulting to the great Master of Life, to 
use their own expression, who is the sacred object 
of their devotion. 

The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of 
the person who performs it, which is prepared for 
that purpose, by removing every thing out of it, 
and spreading green branches in every part. The 
fire and ashes are also taken away. A new hearth 
is made of fresh earth, and another fire is lighted. 
The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it ; 
and he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece 
of new cloth, or a well-dressed moose-skin neatly 
painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and 
exposes its contents, consisting of various arti- 
cles. The principal of them is a kind of house- 
hold god, which is a small carved image about 
eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, 
over which a piece of birch bark is closely tied, 
and the whole is enveloped in several folds of red 
and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of 
the most pious regard. The next article is his 
war-cap, which is decorated with the feathers and 
plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's 
claws, &c. There is also suspended from it a 
quill or feather for every enemy whom the owner 
of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents 
of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several 
roots and simples, which are in great estimation 
for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These 
articles being all exposed, and the stem resting 
upon two forks, as it must not touch the ground.. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, kc. xcvii 

the master of the lodge sends for the person he 
most esteems, who sits down opposite to him ; 
the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. A 
pair of w^ooden pincers is provided to put the fire 
in the pipe, and a double-pointed pin, to empty- 
it of the remnant of tobacco which is not consum- 
ed. This arrangement being made, the men as- 
semble, and sometimes the women are allowed to 
be humble spectators, while the most religious 
awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The Mi- 
chiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights 
it, and presents it to the officiating person, who 
receives it standing and holds it between both his 
hands. He then turns himself to the East, and 
draws a few whiffs, which he blows to that point. 
The same ceremony he observes to the other three 
quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during 
the whole of it. He holds the stem about the 
middle between the three first fingers of both 
hands, and raising them upon a line with his fore- 
head, he swings it three times round from the 
East, with the sun, when, after pointing and ba- 
lancing it in various'directions, he reposes it on 
the forks : he then makes a speech to explain the 
design of their being called together, which con- 
cludes with an acknowledgment for past mercies, 
and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the 
Master of Life. He then sits down, and the whole 
company declare their approbation and thanks by 
uttering the word bo ! with an emphatic prolon- 
gation of the last letter. The Michiniwais 
then takes up the pipe and holds it to the mouth 
of the officiating person, who, after smoking three 
whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then 
goes round with it, taking his course from East 
to West, to every person present, who individu- 
ally says something to him on the occasion : and 
thus the pipe is generally smoked out ; when, 

p 



xcviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

after turning it three or four times round his head^ 
he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its ori- 
ginal situation. He then returns the company 
thanks for their attendance, and wishes them, as 
well as the whole tribe, health and long life. 

These smoking rites precede every matter of 
great importance, with more or less ceremony, 
but always with equal solemnity. The utility of 
them will appear from the following relation. 

If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of 
his people towards him, or if he wishes to settle 
any difference between them, he announces his 
intention of opening his medicine-bag and smok- 
ing in his sacred stem ; and no man who enter- 
tains a grudge against any of the party thus as- 
sembled can smoke with the sacred stem ; as that 
ceremony dissipates all differences, and is never 
violated. 

No one can avoid attending on these occasions ; 
but a person may attend and be excused from as- 
sisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that 
he has not undergone the necessary purification. 
The having cohabited with his wife, or any other 
woman, within twenty- four hours preceding the 
ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequent- 
ly, disqualifies him from performing any part of 
it. If a contract is entered into and solemnised 
by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of 
being faithfully fulfdled. If a person, previous 
to his going a journey, leaves the sacred stem as 
a pledge of his return, no consideration whatever 
will prevent him from executing his engage- 
ment.* 

The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, 
sends quills, or small pieces of wood, as tokens 
of invitation to such as he wishes to partake of it. 

* It is however to he lamented, that of late there is a relaxation of thc- 
duties originally attached to these festivals. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xcix 

At the appointed time the guests arrive, each 
bringing a dish or platter, and a knife, and take 
their seats on each side of the chief, who receives 
them sitting, according to their respective ages. 
The pipe is then lighted, and he makes an equal 
division of every thing that is provided. While 
the company are enjoying their meal, the chief 
sings, and accompanies his song with the tam- 
bourin, or shishiquoi, or rattle. The guest who 
has first eaten his portion is considered as the 
most distinguished person. If there should be 
any who cannot finish the whole of their mess, 
they endeavour to prevail on some of their friends 
to eat it for them, who are rew^arded for their as- 
sistance with ammunition and tobacco. It is pro- 
per also to remark, that at these feasts a small 
quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before 
they begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or 
on the earth. 

These feasts differ according to circumstances ; 
sometimes each man's allowance is no more than 
he can dispatch in a couple of hours. At other 
times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of 
them with food for a week, though it must be de- 
voured in a day. On these occasions it is very 
difficult to procure substitutes, and the whole 
must be eaten whatever time it may require* At 
some of these entertainments there is a more ra- 
tional arrangement, when the guests are allowed 
to carry home with them the superfluous part of 
their portions. Great care is always taken that 
the bones may be burned, as it would be consider- 
ed a profanation were the dogs permitted to touch 
them. 

The public feasts are conducted in the same 
manner, but with some additional ceremony. Se- 
veral chiefs officiate at them, and procure the ne- 
cessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper 



c A GENERAL HISTORY 

place of reception for the numerous company « 
Here the guests discourse upon public topics, re- 
peat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and ex- 
cite the rising generation to follow their example. 
The entertainments on these occasions consist of 
dried meats, as it would not be practicable to 
dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a 
large assembly ; though the women and children 
are excluded. 

Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and 
annually, in honour of the dead ; but they have 
been, for some time, growing into disuse, and I 
never had an opportunity of being present at any 
of them. 

The women, who are forbidden to enter the 
places sacred to these festivals, dance and sing 
around them, and sometimes beat time to the 
music within them; which forms an agreeable 
contrast. 

With respect to their divisions of time, they 
compute the length of their journies by the num- 
ber of nights passed in performing them ; and 
they divide the year by the succession of moons. 
In this calculation, however, they are not alto- 
gether correct, as they cannot account for the 
odd days. 

The names which they give to the moons are 
descriptive of the several seasons. 

May Athelky o Pishim Frog Moon. 

June Oppinu o Pishim The Moon in which birds 

begin to lay their eggs. 

July Aupascen o Pishim The Moon when birds cast 

their feathers. 

August Aupahou o Pishim The Moon when the young- 
birds begin to fly. 

September Waskiscon o Pishim The Moon when the moose 

deer cast their horns. 

October Wisac o Pishim The Rutting-Moon 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. ci 

November Thithigon Pewai o Pi shim Hoar-Frost Moon. 

Kuskatinayoui o Pishim Ice-Moon. 
December Pawatchicananasis o Pishim Whirlwind-Moon. 
January Kushapawasticanum o Pishim Extreme cold Moon 
February Kichi Pishim Big Moon; some say, Old 

Moon. 
March Mickysue Pishim Eagle Moon. 
April Niscaw o Pishim Goose Moon. 

These people know the medicinal virtues of 
many herbs and simples, and apply the roots of 
plants and the bark of trees with success. But 
the conjurers, who monopolize the medical sci- 
ence, find it necessary to blend mystery with their 
art, and do not communicate their knowledge. 
Their materia medica they administer in the form 
of purges and clysters ; but the remedies and sur- 
gical operations are supposed to derive much of 
their effect from magic and incantation. When 
a blister rises in the foot from the frost, the chaf- 
fing of the shoe, &:c. they immediately open it, 
and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, 
which, painful as it may be, is found to be effica- 
cious. A sharp flint serves them as a lancet for 
letting blood, as well as for scarification in bruises 
and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an ani- 
mal just killed is considered as the best remedy. 
They are very fond of European medicines, 
though they are ignorant of their application : and 
those articles form an inconsiderable part of the 
European traffic with them. 

Among their various superstitions, they believe 
that the vapour which is seen to hover over moist 
and swampy places, is the spirit of some person 
lately dead. They also fancy another spirit Avhich 
appears, in the shape of a man, upon the trees 
near the lodge of a person deceased, whose pro- 
perty has not been interred with them. He is re- 
presented as bearing a gun in his hand, and it is 



Cll 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



believed that he does not return to his rest, till 
the property that has been withheld from the grave 
has been sacrificed to it. 



EXAMPLES 
OF THE KNISTENEAUX AND ALGONQUIN TONGUES 



Good Spirit 

Evil Spirit 

Man 

Woman 

Male 

Female 

Infant 

Head 

Forehead 

Hair 

Eyes 

Kose 

Nostrils 

Mouth 

My teeth 

Tongue 

Beard 

Brain 

Ears 

Neck 

Throat 

Arms 

Fingers 

Nails 

Side 

My back 

My bellv 

Thighs ' 

My knees 

Legs 



Knisteneaux. 
Ki jai Manitou 
Matchi manitou 
Ethini 
Esquois 
Nap hew 
Non-gensc 
A' wash ish 
Us ti quoin 
Es caa tick 
Wes ty-ky 
Es kis och 
Oskiwin 



Algonquin. 
Ki jai Manitou. 
Matchi manitou, 
Inini. 
Ich-quois. 
Aquoisi. 
Non-gense. 
Abi nont-chen. 
O'chiti-goine. 
O catick. 
Winessis. 
Oskingick. 
O'chengewane. 



Oo tith ee go mowNi-de-ni-guom. 
O toune O tonne. 



Wip pit tah 
Otaithani 
Michitoune 
With i tip 
O tow ee gie 
O qui ow 
O koot tas gy 
O nisk 
Che chee 
Wos kos sia 
O's spig gy 
No pis quan 
Nattay 
O povam 



Nibit. 

O-tai-na-ni. 

Omichitonn. 

Aba-e winikan. 

O-ta wagane. 

O'quoi gan. 

Nigon dagane« 

O nic. 

Ni nid gines. 

Os-kenge. 

Opikegan. 

Ni-pi quoini, 

Ni my sat. 

Obouame. 



No che quoin nob Ni gui tick, 
Noak Ni gatte. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. 



eii» 





Knistencaux. 


Algonquin. 


Heart 


O thea 


Othai. 


My father 


Noo ta wie 


Nossai. 


My mother 


Nigah wei 


Nigah. 


My boy (son) 


Negousis 


Nigouisscs. 


My girl (daughter) Netanis 


Nidaniss. 


My brother, elder Ni stess 


Nis-a-yen. 


My sister, elder 


Ne miss 


Nimisain. 


My grandfather 


Ne moo shum 


Ni-mi-chomiss. 


My grandmother 


N' o kum 


No-co-miss. 


My uncle 


N' o'ka miss 


Ni ni michomen. 


My nephew 


Ne too sim 


Ne do jim. 


My niece 


Ne too simesquoisNi-do-jim equois. 


My mother-ln-laMi 


' Nisigouse 


Ni sigousiss. 


My brother-in-law Nistah 


Nitah. 


My companion 


Ne wechi wagan 


Ni-wit-chi-wagan. 


My husband 


Ni nap pern 


Ni na bem. 


Blood 


Mith coo 


Misquoi. 


Old Man 


Shi nap 


Aki win se. 


I am angry 


Ne kis si wash ei 


I Nis Katissiwine» 


I fear 


Ne goos tow 


Nisest guse. 


Joy . 


Ne hea tha torn 


Mamond gikisi. 


Hearing 


Pethom 


Oda wagan. 


Track 


Mis conna 


Pemi ka wois. 


Chief, great ruler 


Haukimah 


Kitchi onodis. 


Thief 


Kismouthesk 


Ke moutiske. 


Excrement 


Meyee 


Moui. 


Buffalo 


Moustouche 


Pichike. 


Ferret 


Sigous 


Shingouss. 


Polecat 


Shicak 


Shi kak. 


Elk 


Moustouche 


Michai woi. 


Rein deer 


Attick 


Atick. 


Fallow deer 


Attick 


Wa wasquesh. 


Beaver 


Amisk 


Amic. 


Woolverine 


Qui qua katch 


Quin quoagki. 


Squirrel 


Ennequachas 


Otchi ta mou. 


Minx 


Sa quasue 


Shaugouch. 


Otter 


Nekick 


Ni guick. 


Wolf 


Mayegan 


Maygan. 


Hare 


Wapouce 


W^apouce. 


Marten 


Wappistan 


Wabichinse, 


Moose 


Mouswah 


Monse. 


Bear 


Masqua 


Macqua. 


Fisher 


Wijask 


Odjisck. 



cir 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Lynx 
Porcupine 
Fox 

Music Rat 
Mouse 
Cow Buffalo 
Meat-flesh 
Dog 
Eagle 
Duck 

Crow, Corbeau 
Swan 
Turkey- 
Pheasants 
Bird 
Outard 
White Goose 
Grey Goose 
Partridge 
Water Hen 
Dove 
Eggs 

Pike or Jack 
Carp 
Sturgeon 
White fish 
Pickrel 

Fish (in general) 
Spawn 
Fins 
Trout 
Craw Fish 
Frog 
Wasp 
Turtle 
Snake 
Awl 
Needle 
Fire steel 
Fire wood 
Cradle 
Dagger 



Knisteneaux. 
Picheu 
Cau quah 
Mikasew 
Wajask 
Abicushiss 



Algonquin. 

Pechou. 

Kack 

Wagouche, 

Wa-jack 

Wai wa be gou nogc 



Noshi MoustoucheNochena pichik. 



Wias 

Atim 

Makusue 

Sy Sip 

Ca Cawkeu 

Wapiseu 

Mes sei thew 

Okes kew 

Pethesew 

Niscag 

Wey Wois 

Pestasish 

Pithew 
Chiquibish 
Omi Mee 

Wa Wah 

Kenonge 

Na may bin 

Na May 

Aticaming 

Oc-chaw 

Kenonge 

Waquon 

Chi chi kan 

Nay gouse 

A shag gee 

Athick 

Ah moo 

Mikinack 

Kinibick 

Oscajick 

Saboinigan 

Appet 

Mich-tah 

Teckinigan 

Ta Comagau 



Wi-ass. 

Ani-mouse. 

Me-guissis. 

Shi-sip. 

Ka Kak. 

Wa-pe-sy, 

Mississay. 

Ajack. 

Pi-na-sy. 

Nic kack. 

Woi wois, 

Pos ta kisk. 

Pen ainse. 

Che qui bis, 

O mi-mis. 

Wa Weni. 

Kenonge. 

Na me bine, 

Na Main. 

Aticaming. 

Oh-ga. 

Ki-cons. 

Wa quock. 

O nidj-igan. 

Na Men Gousc. 

A cha kens chacquc 

O ma ka ki. 

A Tcton. 

Mi-ki-nack. 

Ki nai bick. 

Ma-gose. 

Sha-bo nigan, 

Scoutecgan, 

Missane. 

Tickina-gan, 

Na-ba-ke-gou-man. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &cc. 

Knisteneaux. Algonquin. 



cr 



Arrow- 


Augusk or AtoucheMetiic ka nouins. 


Fish Hook 


Quosquipichican 


Maneton Miquiscc 


Ax 


Shegaygan 


Wagagvette. 


Ear-bob 


Chi-kisebisoun 


Na be chi be sour 


Comb 


Sicahoun 


Pin ack wan. 


Net 


Athabe 


Assap. 


Tree 


Mistick 


Miti-coum. 


Wood 


Mistick 


Mitic. 


Paddle 


Aboi 


Aboui. 


Canoe 


Chi man 


S-chiman. 


Birch Rind 


Wasquoi 


Wig nass. 


Bark 


Wasquoi 


On-na-guege. 


Touch Wood 


Pousagan 


Sa-ga-tagan, 


Leaf 


Nepeshah 


Ni-biche. 


Grass 


Masquosi 


Masquosi. 


Raspberries 


Misqui-meinac 


Misqui meinac. 


Strawberries 


O'-tai-e minac 


O'-tai-e minac, 


Ashes 


Pecouch 


Pengoui. 


Fire 


Scou tay 


Scou tay. 


Grapes 


Shomenac 


Shomenac. 


Fog 


Pakishihow 


A Winni. 


Mud 


Asus ki 


A Shiski. 


Currant 


Kisijiwin 


Ki si chi woin. 


Road 


Mescanah 


Mickanan. 


Winter 


Pipoun 


Pipone. 


Island 


Ministick 


Miniss. 


Lake 


Sagayigan 


Sagayigan, 


Sun 


Pisim 


Kiiis. 


Moon 


Tibisca pesim (the 




night Sun) 


Dibic Kijiss. 


Day 


Kigigah 


Kigi gatte. 


Night 


Tibisca 


Dibic kawte. 


Snow 


Counah 


So qui po. 


Rain 


Kimiwoin 


Ki mi woini. 


Drift 


Pewan 


Pi-woine. 


Hail 


Shes eagan 


Me qua mensan. 


Ice 


Mesquaming 


Me quam. 


Frost 


Aquatin 


Gas-ga-tin. 


Mist 


Picasyow 


An-quo-et. 


Water 


Nepec 


Nipei. 


World 


Messeasky (all the 




earth) 


Missi achki. 



CVl 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Mountain 
Sea 

Morning 

Mid-day 

Portage 

Spring 

River 

Rapid 

Rivulet 

Sand 

Earth 

Star 

Thunder 

Wind 

Calm 

Heat 

Evening 

North 

South 

East 

West 

To-morrow 

Bone 

Broth 

Feast 

Grease or oil 

Marrow fat 

Sinew 

Lodge 

Bed 

Within 

Door 

Dish 

Fort 

Sledge 

Cincture 

Cap 

Socks 

Shirt 

Coat 

Blanket 



Knisteneaux. 
Wachee 

Kitchi kitchi ga- 
ming 
Kequishepe 
Abetah quisheik 
Unygam 
Menouscaming 
Sipee 
Bawastick 
Sepeesis 
Thocaw 
Askee 
Attack 
Pi thus eu 
Thoutin 
Athawostin 
Quishipoi 
Ta kashike 
Kywoitin 
Sawena woon 
Coshawcastak 
Paquisimow 
Wabank 
Oskann 
Michim waboi 
Ma qua see 
Pimis 

Oscan pimis 
Asstis 
Wig-waum 
Ne pa win 
Pendog ke 
Squandam 
Othagan 
Wasgaigan 
Tabanask 
Poquoatehoun 
Astotin 
Ashican 
Papackeweyan 
Papise-co-wagan 
Wape weyang 



Algonquin. 
Watchive, 
■ Kitchi kitchi g 
ming. 
Ki-ki-jep, 
Na ock quoi. 
Ouni-gam. 
Mino ka ming. 
Sipi. 

Ba wetick. 
Sipi wes chin. 
Ne gawe. 
Ach ki. 
Anang. 
Ni mi ki. 
No tine. 
A-no-a-tinc. 
Aboyce. 
O'n-a-guche. 
Ke woitinak. 
Sha-wa-na-wang. 
Wa-ba-no-notine. 
Panguis-chi-mo. 
Wa-bang. 
Oc-kann. 
Thaboub. 
Wi con qui wine. 
Pimi-tais. 
Oska-pimitais. 
Attiss. 

Wi-gui-wam. 
Ne pai wine. 
Pendig. 
Scouandam. 
O' na gann. 
Wa-kuigan. 
Otabanac. 
Ketche plsou. 
Pe matinang. 
A chi-gan 
Pa pa ki weyan. 
Papistj-co-wagan. 
Wape weyan. 



■I 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



CYU 



Cloth 

Thread 

Garters 

Mittens 
Shoes 

Smoking bag 
Portage sling 
Strait on 
Medicine 
Red 
Blue 

White 

Yellow 

Green 

Brown 

Grey, &c. 

Ugly 

Handsome 

Beautiful 

Deaf 

Good-natured 

Pregnant 

Fat 

Big 

Small or little 

Short 

Skin 

Long 

Strong 

Coward 

Weak 

Lean 

Brave 

Young man 

Cold 

Hot 

Spring 

Summer 

Fall 



Knisteneaux. 
Maneto weguin 
Assabab 
Chi ki-bisoon 

Astissack 

Miiskisin 

Kasquepetagan 

Apisan 

Goi ask 

Mas ki kee 

Mes coh 



Algonquin. 

Maneto weguin 

Assabab. 

Fi gaske-tase 

soun. 
Medjicawine. 
Makisin. 
Kasquepetagan. 
Apican. 
Goi-ack. 
Macki-ki. 
Mes-cowa. 
Kasqutch (same asO-jawes-cowa. 
black) 



be. 



Wabisca 
Saw waw 
Chibatiquare 



Mache na gouseu 

Catawassiseu 

Kissi Sawenogan 

Nima petom 

Mithiwashin - 

Paawie 

Outhineu 

Mushikitee 

Abisasheu 

Chemasish 

Wian 

Kinwain 



Wabisca. 

O-jawa. 

O'jawes-cowa. 

O'jawes-cowa. 

O'jawes-cowa. 

Mous-counu-gouse 

Nam bissa. 

Quoi Natch. 

Ka ki be chai, 

Onichishin. 

Andyioko. 

Gui-ni-noe. 

Messha. 

Agu-chin. 

Tackosi. 

Wian. 

Kiniwa. 



Mascawa 

Sagatahaw 
Nitha missew 
Mahta waw 
Nima Gustaw 
Osquineguish 
Kissin 
Kichatai 
Minouscaming 
Nibin 
Tagowagonk 



r Mache-cawa. 
\ Mas-cawise. 

Cha-goutai-yej 

Cha-gousi. 

Ka wa ca tosa. 

Son qui taige. 

Oskinigui. 

Kissinan. 

Kicha tai. 

Minokaming. 

Nibiqui. 

Tagowag. 



CYIU 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



One 

Two 

Three 
Four 
Five 
Six 

Seven 

Eight 

Nine 

Ten 

Eleven 

Twelve 

Thirteen 

Fourteen 

Fifteen 

Sixteen 

Seventeen 

Eighteen 

Nineteen 

Twenty 
Twenty-one 

Twenty-two, &c. 

Thirty 
Forty 
Fifty 
Sixty 

Seventy 

Eighty 

Ninety 



Knisteneaux. Algonquin. 

Peyac Pecheik. 

Nisheu Nige. 

Nishtou Nis-wois. 

Neway Ne-au. 

Ni-annan Na-nan. 

Negoutawoesic Ni gouta waswois. 
Nish woisic Nigi-was-wois. 

Jannanew She was wois. 

Shack Shann was wois. 

Mitatat Mit-asswois. 

Peyac osap Mitasswois, hachi 

pecheik. 
Nisheu osap Mitasswois, hachi, 

nige. 
Nichtou osap Mitasswois, hachi, 

niswois. 
Neway osap Mitasswois, hachi, 

ne-au. 
Niannan osap Mitasswois, hachi, 

nanan. 
Nigoutawoesic os-Mitasswois, hachi, 
ap negoutawaswois. 

Nish woesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, 

nigi waswois. 



Jannanew osap 
Shack osap 



Mitasswois, hachi, 
shiwasswois. 

Mitasswois, hachi, 
shang as wois. 

Nigeta-nan. 



Nisheu mitenah 

Nishew mitenah 

peyac osap Nigeta nan, hachi, 

Nisheu mitenah pechic. 
nishew osap 

Nishtou mitenah Niswois mitanan. 

Neway mitenah Neau mitanan. 

Niannan mitenah Nanan mitanan. 

Negoutawoisic mi-Nigouta was wois 
tenah mitanan. 

NishwoisicmitenahNigi was wois mi- 
tanan. 

Jannaeu mitenah She was wois mi- 
tanan. 

Shack mitenah Shang was wois mi- 
tanan. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. 



cix- 



Algonquin. 

Ningoutwack. 

t Nige wack. 

One thousand Mitenah mitenal ,.-. i.- i 

, y Kitchi-wack. 



Hundred 
Two hundred 



Knisteneaux. 
Mitana mitenan 
Neshew mitena 

a mitenah 



First 
Last 
More 
Better 

Best 



I, or me 



-7 

You, or thou 

They, or them 

We 

Mv, or mine 



Who 

Whom 

What 

His, or her's 

All 

Some, or some 

The same 

All the world 

All the men 

More 

Now and then 
Sometimes 
Seldom 
Arrive 
Beat 
To burn 
To sing 
To cut 
To hide 
To cover 
To believe 
To sleep 
To dispute 
To dance 
To give 



mitenah 
Nican 
Squayatch 
Minah 
Athiwack 

washin 
Atniwack 

washin 
Nitha 
Kitha 
Withawaw 
Nithawaw 
Nitayan 
Kitayan 

Awoine 

Otayan 
Kakithau 
few Pey peyac 
Tabescoutch 



Nitam. 

Shaquoiyanke. 

Awa chi min. 
midia-Awachimin o nichi 

shen. 
mitha-Kitchi o nichi shin. 

Nin. 

Kin. 

Win na wa. 

Nina wa. 

Nida yam. 

Kitayam. 

Auoni. 

Kegoi nin. 

Wa. 

Otayim mis. 

Kakenan. 

Pe-pichic. 

Mi ta voche. 



Missi acki wanque Mishiwai asky. 
Kakithaw Ethi ny-Missi Inini wock. 
ock 



Mina 

I as-cow-puco 

Ta couchin 

Otamaha 

Mistascasoo 

Nagamoun 

Kisquishan 

Catann 

Acquahoun 

Taboitam 

Nepan 

Ke ko mi towock 

Nemavtow 

Mith ' 



Mina wa. 
Nannigoutengue. 

Wica-ac-ko. 

Ta-gouchin, 

Packit-ais. 

Icha-quiso. 

Nagam. 

Qui qui Jan. 

Caso tawe. 

A CO na oune. 

Tai boitam. 

Ni pann. 

Ki quaidiwine. 

Nimic. 

Mih. 



ex 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



To do 

To eat 

To die 

To forget 

To speak 

To cry (tears) 

To laugh 

To set down 

To walk 

To fall 

To work 

To kill 

To sell 

To live 

To see 

To come 

Enough 

Cry (tears) 

It hails 

There is 

There is some 

It rains 

After to-morrow 

To-day 

Thereaway 

Much 

Presendy 

Make, heart 

This morning 

This night 

Above 

Below 

Truly 

Already 

Yet, more 

Yesterday 

Far 

Near 

Never 

No 

Yes 

By-and-bye 

Always 

Make haste 

It's long since 



} 



Knisteneaux. 
Ogitann 
Wissinee 
Nepew 

Winnekiskisew 
Athimetakcouse 
Mantow 
Papew 
Nematappe 
Pimoutais 
Packisin 
Ah tus kew 
Nipahaw 
Attawoin 
Pimatise 
Wabam 
Astamoteh 
Egothigog 
Manteau 
Shisiagan 

Aya wa 

Quimiwoin 

Aw is wabank 

Anoutch 

Netoi 

Michett 

Pichisqua 

Quithipeh 

Shebas 

Tibiscag 

Espiming 

Tabassish 

Taboiy 

Sashay 

Minah 

Tacoushick 

Wathow 

Quishiwoac 

Nima wecatch 

Nima 

Ah ^ 

Pa-nima 

Ka-ki-kee 

Quethepeh 

Mewaisha 



Algonquin. 
O-gitoune, 
Wissiniwin. 
Ni po wen. 
Woi ni mi kaw. 
Aninntagousse. 
Ma wi. 
Pa-pe. 

Na matape win; 
Pemoussai. 
Panguishin. 
Anokeh. 
Nishi-woes. 
Ata wois. 
Pematis. 
Wab. 

Pitta-si-mouss. 
Mi mi nic. 
Ambai ma wita. 
Sai saigaun. 

Aya wan. 

Qui mi woin. 
Awes wabang. 
Non gum. 
Awoite. 
Ni bi wa. 
Pitchinac. 
Wai we be. 
Shai bas. 
De bi cong, 
O kitchiai. 
Ana mai. 
Ne da wache. 
Sha shaye. 
Mina wa. 
Pitchinago. 
Wassa. 
Paishou. 
Ka wi ka. 
Ka wine. 
In. 

Pa-nima. 
Ka qui nick. 
Niguim. 
Mon wisha. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. exi 



SOME ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

CHEPEWYAN INDIANS. 

They are a numerous people, who consider 
the country between the parallels of latitude 60. 
and 65. North, and longitude 100. to 110. West, 
as their lands or home. They speak a copious, 
language, which is very difficult to be attained, 
and furnishes dialects to the various emigrant 
tribes which inhabit the following immense track 
of country, whose boundary I shall describe^. 
It begins at Churchill, and runs along the line of 
separation between them and the Knisteneaux, up 
the Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing on 
through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake, and Port- 
age la Loche : from thence it proceeds by the 
Elk River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes di- 
rectly West to the Peace River ; and up that river 
to its source and tributary waters ; from whence 
it proceeds to the waters of the river Columbia ; 
and follows that river to latitude 52. 24. North, 
and longitude 122. 54. West, where the Chepe- 
wyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for their 
neighbours. It then takes a line due West to the 
sea-coast, within which, the country is possessed 
by a people who speak their languagef , and are 
consequently descended from them : there can be 
no doubt, therefore, of their progress being to 



• Those of them who come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hun- 
dred men, and have a smattering of the Kuisteneaux tongue, in vhicU 
they carry on their dealings with us. 

t The coast is inhabited on the North-West by the Eskimaux, and cm 
the Pacific Ocean by a people diiferent from both. 



cxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

the Eastward. A tribe of them is even known at 
the upper establishments on the Saskatchiwine ; 
and I do not pretend to ascertain how far they 
may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East. 

It is not possible to form any just estimate of 
their numbers, but it is apparent, nevertheless, 
that they are by no means proportionate to the 
vast extent of their territories, which may, in 
some degree, be attributed to the ravages of the 
small pox, which are, more or less, evident 
throughout this part of the continent. 

The notion which these people entertain of the 
creation, is of a very singular nature. They be- 
lieve that, at the first, the globe was one vast 
and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, 
except a mighty bird, whose eyes were fire, whose 
glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose 
w ings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, 
and touching it, the earth instantly arose, and 
remained on the surface of the waters. This om- 
nipotent bird then called forth all the variety of 
animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, 
who were produced from a dog ; and this circum- 
stance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that 
animal, as well as the people who eat it. This 
extraordinary tradition proceeds to relate, that 
the great bird, having finished his work, made an 
arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, 
and to remain untouched ; but that the Chepewy- 
ans were so devoid of understanding, as to carry 
it away ; and the sacrilege so enraged the great 
bird, that he has never since appeared. 

They have also a tradition amongst them, that 
they originally came from another country, inha- 
bited by very wicked people, and had traversed a 
great lake, which was narrrow, shallow, and full 
of islands, where they had suifered great misery, 
it being always winter, with ice and deep snow. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, kc. cxiii 

At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the 
first land, the ground was covered with copper, 
over which a body of earth had since been collect- 
ed, to the depth of a man's height. They believe, 
also, that in ancient times their ancestors lived 
till their feet were worn out with walking, and 
their throats with eating. They describe a de- 
luge, when the waters spread over the whole earth, 
except the highest mountains, on the tops of 
which they preserved themselves. 

They believe, that immediately after their death, 
they pass into another world, where they arrive at 
a large river, on which they embark in a stone 
canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to 
an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a most 
beautiful island ; and that, in the view of this de- 
lightful abode, they receive that judgment for 
their conduct during life, which terminates their 
final state and unalterable allotment. If their good 
actions are declared to predominate, they are land- 
ed upon the island, where there is to be no end 
to their happiness ; which, however, according 
to their notions, consists in an eternal enjoyment 
of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But 
if their bad actions weigh down the balance, the 
stone canoe sinks at once, and leaves them up to 
their chins in the water, to behold and regret the 
reward enjoyed by the good, and eternally strug- 
gling, but with unavailing endeavours, to reach 
the blissful island, from which they are excluded 
for ever. 

They have some faint notions of the transmi- 
gration of the soul ; so that if a child be born with 
teeth, they instantly imagine, from its premature 
appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some 
person who had lived to an advanced period, and 
that he has assumed a renovated life, with these 
extraordinary tokens of maturity. 

R 



cxiv A GENERAL HISTORY 

The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and va- 
grant, with a selfish disposition which has some- 
times created suspicions of their integrity. Their 
stature has nothing remarkable in it ; but though 
they are seldom corpulent, they are sometimes 
robust. Their complexion is swarthy ; their fea- 
tures coarse, and their hair lank, but not always 
of a dingy black ; nor have they universally the 
piercing eye, which generally animates the Indian 
countenance. The vv^omen have a more agreea- 
ble aspect than the men, but their gait is awkward, 
which proceeds from their being accustomed, nine 
months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and 
drag sledges of a weight from two to four hundred 
pounds. They are very submissive to their hus- 
bands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy; 
and, for very trifling causes, treat them with such 
cruelty as sometimes to occasion their death. 
They are frequently objects of traffic ; and the fa- 
ther possesses the right of disposing of his daugh- 
ter*. The men in general extract their beards, 
though some of them are seen to prefer a bushy 
black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their 
hair in various forms, or leave it in a long, natu- 
ral flow, according as their caprice or fancy sug- 
gests. The women always wear it in great length, 
and some of them are very attentive to its arrange- 
ment. If they at any time appear despoiled of 
their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the 
husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer 
punishment than manual correction. Both sexes 
have blue or black bars, or from one to four strait 
lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish 
the tribe to which they belong. These marks 
are either tatooed, or made by drawing a thread, 
dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin. 

* They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as companions tO' 
those who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, kc. cxv 

There are no people more attentive to the com- 
forts of their dress, or less anxious respecting its 
exterior appearance. In the winter it is composed 
of the skins of the deer, and their fawns, and dres- 
sed as fine as any chamois leather, in the hair. In 
the summer their apparel is the same, except that 
it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and 
leggins are sewed together, the latter reaching up- 
wards to the middle, and being supported by a belt, 
under which a small piece of leather is drawn to 
cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down 
both before and behind. In the shoes they put the 
hair of the moose or rein- deer with additional 
pieces of leather as socks. The shirt or coat, when 
girted round the waist, reaches to the middle of 
the thigh, and the mittens are sewed to the sleeves, 
or are suspended by strings from the shoulders. A 
ruflfor tippet surrounds the neck, and the skin of 
the head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. 
A robe, made of several deer or fawn skins sewed 
together, covers the whole. This dress is worn 
single or double, but always in the winter, with the 
hair within and without. Thus arrayed a Chepe- 
wyan will lay himself down on the ice in the mid- 
dle of a lake, and repose in comfort; though he will 
sometimes find a difficulty in the morning to disen- 
cumber himself from the snow drifted on him du- 
ring the night. If in his passage he should be in 
want of provision, he cuts an hole in the ice, when 
he seldom fails of taking some trout or pike, whose 
eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a great 
delicacy; but if they should not be sufficient to sa- 
tisfy his appetite, he will, in this necessity make 
his meal of the fish in its raw state; but, those 
whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when 
circumstances admitted the necessary preparation. 
When they are in that part of their country which 
does not produce a sufficient quantity of wood for 



cxvi A GENERAL HISTORY 

fuel, they are reduced to the same exigency, though 
they generally dry their meat in the sun*. 

The dress of the women differs from that of the 
men. Their leggins are tied below the knee; and 
their coat or shift is wide, hanging down to the 
ancle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a 
belt, which is fastened round the waist. Those 
w^ho have children have these garments made very 
full about the shoulders, as when they are travel- 
ling they carry their infants upon their backs, next 
their skin, in which situation they are perfectly 
comfortable and in a position convenient to be 
suckled. Nor do they discontinue to give their 
milk to them till they have another child. Child- 
birth is not the object of that tender care and seri- 
ous attention among the savages as it is among ci- 
vilised people. At this period no part of their usual 
occupation is omitted, and this continual and re- 
gular exercise must contribute to the welfare of 
the mother, both in the progress of parturition and 
in the moment of delivery. The women have a 
singular custom of cutting oiF a smal] piece of the 
navel string of the new-born children, and hang it 
about their necks : they are also curious in the co- 
vering they make for it, which they decorate with 
porcupine's quills and beads. 

* The provision called Pemican, on which the Chepewyans, as well 
as the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in their joumies, is 
prepared in the following manner. The lean parts of the flesh of the lar- 
ger animals are cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate over a 
slow fire, or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These opera- 
tions dry it, and in that state it is pounded between two stones; it will 
then keep with care for several years. If, however, it is kept in large 
quantities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of the year, when it must 
be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay. Tlie inside fat, and that of the 
rump, which is much thicker in these wild than our domestic animals, is 
melted down and mixed, in a boiling state, v»^ith the pounded meat, in equal 
proportions : it is then put in baskets or bags for the convenience of carry- 
ing it. Thus it becomes a nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further 
preparation, or the addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous 
substance. A little time reconciles it to the palate. There is another sort 
made with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which is of a supe- 
rior quality. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxvii 

Though the women are as much in the power 
of the men, as other articles of their property, they 
are always consulted, and possess a very conside- 
rable influence in the traffic with Europeans, and 
other important concerns. 

Plurality of wives is common among them, and 
the ceremony of marriage is of a very simple na- 
ture. The girls are betrothed at a very early pe- 
riod to those whom the parents think the best 
able to support them : nor is the inclination of 
the woman considered. Whenever a separation 
takes place, which sometimes happens, it depends 
entirely on the will and pleasure of the husband. 
In common with the other Indians of this coun- 
try, they have a custom respecting the periodical 
state of a woman, which is rigorously observed : 
at that time she must seclude herself from society. 
They are not even allowed in that situation to 
keep the same path as the men, when travelling : 
and it is considered a great breach of decency for 
a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils 
of manly occupation. Such a circumstance is 
supposed to defile them, so that their subsequent 
use would be followed by certain mischief or mis- 
fortune. There are particular skins which the 
women never touch, as of the bear and wolf; 
and those animals the men are seldom known to 
kill. 

They are not remarkable for their activity as 
hunters, which is owing to the ease with which 
they snare deer and spear fish : and these occu- 
pations are not beyond the strength of their old 
men, women, and boys : so that they participate 
in those laborious occupations, which among their 
neighbours, are confined to the women. They 
make war on the Esquimaux, who cannot resist 
their superior numbers, and put them to death, 
as it is a principle with them never to make pri- 



cxviii A GENERAL HISTORY 

soners. At the same time they tamely submit to 
the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous as 
themselves, when they treat them as enemies. 

They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, 
either among themselves or strangers, which is 
common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate 
mutually, and at once, all the information of 
which they are possessed. Nor are they roused 
like them from an apparent torpor to a state of 
great activity. They are consequently more uni- 
form in this respect, though they are of a very 
persevering disposition when their interest is con- 
cerned. 

As these people are not addicted to spirituous 
liquors, they have a regular and uninterrupted 
use of their understanding, which is always di- 
rected to the advancement of their own interest ; 
and this disposition, as may be readily imagined, 
sometimes occasions them to be charged with 
fraudulent habits. They will submit with pa- 
tience to the severest treatment, when they are 
conscious that they deserve it, but will never 
forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary ri- 
gour. A moderate conduct I never found to fail, 
nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether, 
as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in 
North America. 

There are conjurers and high-priests, but I 
w^as not present at any of their ceremonies ; though 
they certainly operate in an extraordinary man- 
ner on the imaginations of the people in the cure 
of disorders. Their principal maladies are, rheu- 
matic pains, the flux and consumption. The ve- 
nereal complaint is very common ; but though its 
progress is slow, it gradually undermines the con- 
stitution, and brings on premature decay. They 
have recourse to superstition for their cure, and 
charms are their only remedies, except the bark 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxix 

of the willow, which being burned and reduced 
to powder, is strewed upon green wounds and 
ulcers, and places contrived for promoting per- 
spiration. Of the use of simples and plants they 
have no knowledge ; nor can it be expected, as 
their country does not produce them. 

Though they have enjoyed so long an inter- 
course with Europeans, their country is so bar- 
ren, as not to be capable of producing the ordi- 
nary necessaries naturally introduced by such a 
communication ; and they continue, in a great 
measure their own inconvenient and awkward 
modes of taking their game and preparing it when 
taken. Sometimes they drive the deer into the 
small lakes, where they spear them, or force 
them into inclosures, where the bow and arrow 
are employed against them. These animals are 
also taken in snares made of skin. In the former 
instance the game is divided among those who 
have been engaged in the pursuit of it. In the 
latter it is considered as private property ; never- 
theless, any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may 
take a deer so caught, leaving the head, skin, and 
saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have 
no regular government, as every man is lord in. 
his own family, they are influenced, more or less, 
by certain principles which conduce to their ge- 
neral benefits 

In their quarrels with each other, they very 
rarely proceed to a greater degree of violence than 
is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling 
of the hair, while their abusive language consists 
in applying the name of the most offensive animal 
to the object of their displeasure, and adding the 
term ugly, and chiay, or still-born.* 



* This name is also applicable to the foetus of an animal, when killed, 
v.'hich is considered as one of the greatest delicacies. 



cxx A GENERAL HISTORY 

Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addi- 
tion to the articles procured from Europeans, are 
spears, bows, and arrows, fishing -nets, and lines 
made of green deer-skin thongs. They have also 
nets for taking the beaver as he endeavours to 
escape from his lodge when it is broken open. It 
is set in a particular manner for the purpose, and 
a man is employed to watch the moment when he 
enters the snare, or he would soon cut his way 
through it. He is then thrown upon the ice, 
where he remains as if he had no life in him. 

The snow-shoes are of a very superior work- 
manship. The inner part of their frame is straight, 
the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at both 
ends, with that in front turned up. They are also 
laced with great neatness with thongs made of 
deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin slips 
of board turned up also in front, and are highly 
polished with crooked knives, in order to slide 
along with facility. Close-grained wood is, on 
that account, the best ; but theirs are made of the 
red or swamp spruce-fir tree. 

The country, which these people claim as their 
land, has a very small quantity of earth, and pro- 
duces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief ve- 
getable substance is the moss, on which the deer 
feed ; and a kind of rock moss, which, in times 
of scarcity, preserves the lives of the natives. 
When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, 
glutinous substance, that affords a very sufficient 
nourishment. But, notwithstanding the barren 
state of their country, with proper care and eco- 
nomy, these people might live in great comfort, 
for the lakes abound with fish, and the hills are 
covered with deer. Though, of all the Indian 
people of this continent they are considered as the 
most provident, they suffer severely at certain 
seasons, and particularly in the dead of winter. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, See. txxi 

when they are under the necessity of retiring to 
their scanty, stinted woods. To the Westward 
of them the musk-ox may be found, but they 
have no dependence on it as an article of suste- 
nance. There are also large hares, a few white 
wolves, peculiar to their country, and several 
kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, 
&c. The beaver and moose- deer they do not find 
till they come within 60 degrees North latitude ; 
and the buffalo is still further South. That ani- 
mal is known to frequent an higher latitude to the 
Westward of their country. These people bring 
pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are 
found on the surface of the^ earth. It is easily 
worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens with 
time ; it endures heat, and is manufactured into 
pipes or calumets, as they are very fond of smok- 
ing tobacco ; a luxury which the Europeans com- 
municated to them. 

Their amusements or recreations are but few. 
Their music is so inharmonious, and their danc- 
ing so awkward, that they might be supposed to 
be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise 
either. They also shoot at marks, and play at 
the games common among them ; but in fact they 
prefer sleeping to either ; and the greater part of 
their time is passed in procuring food, and resting 
from the toil necessary to obtain it. 

They are also of a querulous disposition, and 
are continually making complaints ; which they 
express by a constant repetition of the word eduiy, 
"■ it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of 
voice. 

They are superstitious in the extreme, and al- 
most every action of their lives, however trivial, 
is more or less influenced by some whimsical no- 
tion. I never observed that they had any particu-^ 
lar form of religious worship , but as they believe 

s 



cxxii A GENERAL HISTORY 

in a good and evil spirit, and a state of future re- 
wards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of 
religious impressions. At the same time they 
manifest a decided unw^illingness to make any 
communications on the subject. 

The Chepewyans have been accused of aban- 
doning their aged and infirm people to perish, and 
of not burying their dead ; but these arc melan- 
choly necessities, w^hich proceed from their wan- 
dering way of life. They are by no means uni- 
versal, for it is within my knowledge, that a man, 
rendered helpless by the palsy, was carried about 
for many years, with the greatest tenderness and 
attention, till he died a natural death. That they 
should not bury their dead in their own country, 
cannot be imputed to them as a custom arising 
from a savage insensibility, as they inhabit such 
high latitudes that the ground never thaws ; but 
it is well known, that when they are in the woods, 
they cover their dead with trees. Besides, they 
manifest no common respect to the memory of 
their departed friends, by a long period of mourn- 
ing, cutting oif their hair, and never making use 
of the property of the deceased. Nay, they fre- 
quently destroy or sacrifice their own, as a token 
of regret and sorrow. 

If there be any people who, from the barren 
state of their country, might be supposed to be 
cannibals by nature, these people, from the dif- 
ficulty they, at times, experience in procuring 
food, might be liable to that imputation. But, 
in all my knowledge of them, I never was ac- 
quainted with one instance of that disposition ; 
nor among all the natives which I met with in a 
route of five thousand miles, did I see or hear of 
an example of cannibalism, but such as arose 
from that irresistible necessitv, which has been 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



CXXlll 



known to impel even the most civilised people to 
eat each other. 



EXAMPLE OF THE CHEPEWYAN TONGUE. 



Man 

Woman 
Young man 
Young woman 
My son 
My daughter 
My husband 
My wife 
My brother 
My father 
My mother 
My grandfather 
Me, or my 

You 

They 

Head 

Hand 

Leg 

Foot 

Eyes 

Teeth 

Side 

Belly 

Tongue 

Hair 

Back 

Blood 

The Knee 

Clothes or Blanket 

Coat 

Leggin 

Shoes 

Robe or Blanket 

Sleeves 

Mittens 

Cap 

Swan 



D'mnie. 

Chequois, 

Quelaquis. 

Quelaquis chequoi, 

Zi azay. 

Zi lengai, 

Zi dinnie. 

Zi zayunai. 

Zi raing, 

Zi tah. 

Zi nah. 

Zi unai. 

See. 

Ne. 

Nun. 

Be. 

Edthie. 

Law. 

Edthen. 

Cuh. 

Nackhay. 

Goo. 

Kac-hey. 

Bitt. 

Edthu. 

Thiegah. 

Losseh. 

Dell. 

Cha-gutt. 

Etlunay. 

Eeh. 

Thell. 

Kinchee. 

Thuth. 

Bah 

Geese, 

Sah. 

Kagouce. 



cxxiv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Duck 

Goose 

White partridge 

Grey partridge 

Buffalo 

Moose deer 

Rein deer 

Beaver 

Bear 

Otter 

Martin 

Wolvereen 

Wolf 

Fox 

Hare 

Dog 

Beaver-skin 

Otter-skin 

Moose-skittj 

Fat 

Grease 

Meat 

Pike 

White-fish 

Trout 

Pickerel 

Fish-hook 

Fish-line 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

Seven 

Eight 

WmQ 

Ten 

Twenty 

Fire 

Water 

Wood 

Ice 



Keth. 

Gah. 

Cass bah. 

Deyee. 

Giddy. 

Dinyai. 

Edthun. 

Zah. 

Zass. 

Gabv-ai. 

Thah. 

Naguiyai. ' 

Yess (Nouhoay.) 

Naguethey. 

Cah. 

Sliengh. 

Zah thah. 

Naby-ai thith, 

Deny-ai thith. 

Icah. 

Thless. 

Bid. 

Uldiah. 

Slouey. 

Sloueyzinai. 

G'Gah. 

Ge-eth. 

Clulez. 

Slachy. 

Naghur. 

Tagh-y. 

Dehgk-y. 

Sasoulachee. 

Alki tar-hy-y. 

Alki deing-hy. 

Cakina hanoth-na. 

Ca noth na. 

Na ghur cha noth na. 

Counn. 

Tone. 

Dethkin. 

Thun. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



cxxv 



Snow 
Rain 
Lake 
River 

Mountain 
Stone 
Berries 
Hot 
Cold 
Island 
Gun 
Powder 
Knife 
Axe 
Sun 
Moon 
Red 
Black 

Trade, or barter 
Good 
Not good 
Stinking 
Bad, ugly 
Long since 
Now, to-day- 
To-morrow 

By-and-bye, or presently 
House, or lodge 
Canoe 
Door 

Leather-lodge 
Chief 
Mine 
His 
Yours 
Large 

Small, or little 
I love you 
I hate you 
I am to be pitied 
My relation 
Give me water 
Give me meat 



Yath. 

Thinnelsee. 

Touey. 

Tesse. 

Zeth. 

Thaih. 

Gui-eh, 

Edowh. 

Edzaho 

Nouey. 

Telkithy. 

Telkithy counna. 

Bess. 

Thynle. 

Sah. 

Deli couse. 

Dell zin. 

Na-houn-ny. 

Leyzong. 

Leyzong houUey, 

Geddey. 

Slieney. 

Galladinna. 

Ganneh. 

Gambeh, 

GarahouUeh. 

Cooen. 

Shaluzee. 

The o ball. 

N'abalay. 

Buchahudry. 

Zidzy. 

Bedzy. 

Nuntzy. 

Unshaw, 

Chautah. 

Ba eioinichdinh 

Bucnoinichadinh hillay. 

Est-chounest-hinay. 

Sy lod, innay. 

Too hanniltu. 

Beds-hanniltu. 



CXXVl 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Give me fish 

Give me meat to eat 

Give me water to drink 

It is far off 

Is it not far 

It is near 

How many 

What call you him, or that 

Come here 

Pain, or suffering 

It's hard 

You lie 

What then 



Sloeeh anneltu. 
Bid Barheether. 
To Barhithen. 
Netha uzany, 
Nilduay uzany. 
Nitha-hillai. 
Nilduay. 
Etlaneldey. 
Etla houllia. 
Yeu dessay. 
I-yah 
Untzee. 
Eldaw-gueh. 



JOURNAL 



OF 



A VOYAGE, &c 



CHAPTER L 

Embarked at Fort Cbepeivyan, on the Lake of 
the Hills^ in company nvith M. Le Roux, Ac- 
count of the party ^ propulsions^ ^c. Direction 
of the course. Enter one of the branches of 
the Lake, Arrive in the Peace River, Ap- 
pearance of the land. Navigation of the river. 
Arrive at the mouth of the Dog River, Suc- 
cessive description of several carrying places. 
A canoe lost in one of the Falls, Encamp on 
Point de Roche, Course continued. Set the 
nets^ ^c. Arrive at the Slave L.ake, The 
weather extremely cold. Banks of the river 
described^ voith its trees ^ soil, ^c. Account 
of the animal productions,, and the fishery of 
the Lake, Obliged to wait till the inoving of 
the ice. Three families of Lidians arrive 
from Athabasca, Beavers, geese, and swans 
killed. The nets endangered by ice, Re-im- 
bark and land on a small island. Course con- 
tinued along the shores, and across the bays of 
the Lake. Farious successes of the hunters. 
Steer for an island %v here there vjas plenty of 
cranberries and small onions. Kill several 
rein deer. Land on an island named Isle a la 
Cache, Clouds of musquitoes, 

June 1789. 

Wednesday, 3. WE embarked at nine in the 
morning, at Fort Chepewyan, on the South side 
of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 40. North, 
and longitude 110. 30. West from Greenwich, 



2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and compass has sixteen degrees variation East, 
in a canoe made of birch bark. The crew con- 
sisted of four Canadians, two of whom were at- 
tended by their wives, and a German ; we were 
accompanied also by an Indian, who had acquir- 
ed the title of English Chief, and his two wives, 
in a small canoe, with two young Indians ; his 
followers in another small canoe. These men 
were engaged to serve us in the twofold capacity 
of interpreters and hunters. This chief has been 
a principal leader of his countrymen who were in 
the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Factory, 
Hudson's Bay, and till of late very much attached 
to the interest of that company. These circum- 
stances procured him the appellation of the Eng- 
lish Chief. 

We were also accompanied by a canoe that I 
had equipped for the purpose of trade, and given 
the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Com- 
pany's clerks. In this I was obliged to ship part 
of our provision ; which, with the clothing ne- 
cessary for us on the voyage, a proper assortment 
of the articles of merchandize as presents, to en- 
sure us a friendly reception among the Indians, 
and the ammunition and arms requisite for de- 
fence, as well as a supply for our hunters, were 
more than our own canoe could carry, but by the 
time we should part company, there was every 
reason to suppose that our expenditure would 
make sufiicient room for the whole. 

We proceeded twenty one miles to the West, 
and then took a course of nine miles to North- 
North- West, when we entered the river, or one 
of the branches of the lake, of which there are 
several. We then steered North five miles, when 
our course changed for two miles to North-North 
East, and here at seven in the evening we landed 
and pitched our tents. One of the hunters killed 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 3 

a goose, and a couple of ducks : at the same time 
the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gum- 
med, which necessary business was effectually 
performed. 

Thursday^ 4. We embarked at four this morn- 
ing, and proceeded North-North- East half a mile, 
North one mile and a half, West two miles, 
North- West two miles, West-North- West one 
mile and a half, North-North- West half a mile, 
and West- North- West two miles, when this 
branch loses itself in the Peace River. It is re- 
markable, that the currents of these various bran- 
ches of the lake, when the Peace River is high, 
as in May and August, run into the lake, which, 
in the other months of the year returns its waters 
to them ; whence, to this place, the branch is not 
more than two hundred yards wide, nor less than 
an hundred and twenty. The banks are rather 
low, except in one place, where an huge rock 
rises above them. The low land is covered with 
wood, such as white birch, pines of different kinds, 
with the poplar, three kinds of willow, and the 
Hard. 

The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at 
this spot, and its current is stronger than that of 
the channel which communicates with the lake. 
It here, indeed, assumes the name of the Slaiie 
River.* The course of this day was as fol- 
lows : — North- West two miles, North-North- 
West, through islands, six miles. North four 
miles and a half, North by East two miles. West 
by North six miles. North one mile, North- East 
by East two miles. North one mile. We now 
descended a rapid, and proceeded North- West 

* The Slave Indians having been driven from their original country, 
by their enemies the Knisteneaux, along the borders of this part of the 
river, it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea of 
servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach, that 
denoted more than common savageness. 

T 



* JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

seven miles and a half. North- West nine miles. 
North by West six miles, North- West by West 
one mile and a half, North- West by North half a 
mile, North-North- West six miles, North one 
mile, North-\Vest by West four miles, North- 
North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the 
mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and 
unloaded our canoes, at half past seven in the 
evening, on the East side, and close by the rapids. 
At this station the river is near two leagues in 
breadth. 

Friday, 5. At three o'clock in the morning we 
embarked, but unloaded our canoes at the first 
rapid. When we had reloaded, we entered a 
small channel, which is formed by the islands, 
and, in about half an hour, we came to the carry- 
ing place. It is three hundred and eighty paces in 
length, and very commodious, except at the fur^ 
ther end of it. We found some difficulty in re- 
loading at this spot, from the large quantity of ice 
which had not yet thawed. From hence to the 
next carrying-place, called the Portage d^Emhar- 
ras^ is about six miles, and is occasioned by the 
drift wood filling up the small channel, which is 
one thousand and twenty paces in length -, from 
hence to the next is one mile and a half, while the 
distance to that which succeeds, does not exceed 
one hundred and fifty yards. It is about the same 
length as the last ; and from hence to the carrying 
place called the Mountain, is about four miles fur- 
ther ; when we entered the great river. The 
smaller one, or the channel, aftbrds by far the best 
passage, as it is without hazard of any kind ; 
though I believe a shorter course would be found 
on the outside of the islands, and without so many 
carrying -places. That called the Mountain is 
three hundred and thirty-five paces in length; from 
thence to the next, named the Pelican, there is 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. J 

about a mile of dangerous rapids. The landing is 
very steep, and close to the fall. The length of 
this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty 
paces. 

The whole of the party were now employed in 
taking the baggage and the canoe up the hill. One 
of the Indian canoes went down the fall, and was 
dashed to pieces. The woman who had the ma- 
nagement of it, by quitting it in time, preserved 
her life, though she lost the little property it con- 
tained. 

The course from the place we quitted in the 
morning is about North- West, and comprehends 
a distance of fifteen miles. From hence to the 
next and last carrying-place, is about nine miles ; 
in which distance there are three rapids : course 
North-West by West. The carrying path is ve- 
ry bad, and five hundred and thirty-five paces in 
length. Our canoes being lightened, passed on 
the outside of the opposite island, which render- 
cd the carrying of the baggage very short indeed, 
being not more than the length of a canoe. In 
the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two 
canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on 
the other side of the river, which occasioned this 
place to be called the Portage des Noyes, They 
were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of 
that year, under the direction of Mr. Cuthbert 
Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles, and 
encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in 
the afternoon. The men and Indians were very 
much fatigued ; but the hunters had provided 
seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks. 

Saturday^ 6. We embarked at half past two 
in the morning, and steered North- West by North 
twenty- one miles. North- West by West five 
miles, West-North- West four miles. West six 
miles, doubled a point North-North-East one 



6 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

mile, East five miles, North two miles, North- 
West by North one mile and a half, West-North- 
West three miles, North-East by East two miles, 
doubled a point one mile and a half, West by 
North nine miles. North- West by West six miles, 
North-North- West five miles ; here we landed at 
six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamp- 
ed. Nets were also set in a small adjacent river. 
We had an head wind during the greater part of 
the day, and the weather was become so cold 
that the Indians were obliged to make use of their 
mittens. In this day's progress we killed seven 
geese and six ducks. 

Sunday^ 7. At half past three we renewed our 
voyage, and proceeded West-North- West one 
mile, round an island one mile. North- West tw^o 
miles and a half, South by West three miles, 
West- South- West one mile, South- West by 
South half a mile. North- West three miles, West- 
North- West three miles and a half. North seven 
miles and a half. North- West by North four miles, 
North two miles and a half. North- West by North 
two miles. The rain, which had prevailed for 
some time, now came on with such violence, that 
we w^ere obliged to land and unload, to prevent 
the goods and baggage from getting wet ; the 
weather, however, soon cleared up, so that we 
reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now 
continued our course North ten miles, West one 
mile and a half, and North one mile and a half, 
when the rain came on again, and rendered it ab- 
solutely necessary for us to get on shore for the 
night, at about half past three. We had a strong 
North-North-East wind throughoutthe day, which 
greatly impeded us ; M. Le Roux, however, with 
his party, passed on in search of a landing place 
more agreeable to them. The Indians killed a 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 7 

couple of geese, and as many ducks. The rain 
continued through the remaining part of the day. 
Monday^ 8. The night was very boisterous, 
and the rain did not cease till two in the afternoon 
of thisday ; but as the wind did not abate of its 
violence, we were prevented from proceeding till 
the morrow. 

Tuesday^ 9. We embarked at half past two in the 
morning, the weather being calm and foggy. Soon 
after our two young men joined us, whom we had 
not seen for two days ; but during their absence 
they had killed four beavers and ten geese. After 
a course of one mile North- West by North, we ob- 
serveil an opening on the right, which we took 
for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. 
We returned and steered South- West by West 
one mile and a half, West- So nth- West one mile 
and a half. West one mile, when we entered a 
very small branch of the river on the East bank ; 
at the mouth of which T was informed there had 
been a carrying-place, owing to the quantity of 
drift wood, which then filled up the passage, but 
has since been carried away. The course of this 
river is meandering, and tends to the North, and 
in about ten miles falls into the Slave Lake, w^here 
we arrived at nine in the morning, when we found 
a great change in the weather, as it was become 
extremely cold. The lake was entirely covered 
with ice, and did not seem in any degree to have 
given way, but near the shore. The gnats and 
muskitoes which were very troublesome during 
our passage along the river, did not venture to ac- 
company us to this colder region. 

The banks of the river both above and below 
the rapids, were on both sides covered Vvith the 
various kinds of wood common to this country , 
particularly the Western side ; the land being 
lower and consisting of a rich black soil. This 



8 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

artificial ground is carried down by the stream, 
and rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or 
ten feet deep. The eastern banks are more ele- 
vated, and the soil a yellow clay mixed with gra- 
vel ; so that the trees are neither so large or nu- 
merous as on the opposite shore. The ground 
was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth ; 
notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth ; 
while along the lake there was scarcely any ap- 
pearance of verdure. 

The Indians informed me, that, at a very small 
distance from either bank of the river, are very 
extensive plains, frequented by large herds of 
buffaloes ; w^hile the moose and rein-deer keep in 
the woods that border on it. The beavers, which 
are in great numbers, build their habitations in 
the small lakes and rivers, as, in the larger 
streams, the ice carries every thing along with it, 
during the spring. The mud-banks in the river 
are covered with wild fowl ; and we this morning 
killed two swans, ten geese, and one beaver, with- 
out suffering the delay of an hour ; so that wc 
might have soon filled the canoe ^ith them, if 
that had been our object. 

From the small river we steered East, along 
the inside of a long sand-bank, covered with drift 
wood and enlivened by a few willows, which 
stretches on as far as the houses erected by 
Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, in 1786. We often 
ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth 
of the water no where exceeded three feet. There 
we found our people, who had arrived early in 
the morning, and whom w^e had not seen since 
the preceding Sunday. We now- unloaded the 
canoe, and pitched our tents, as there was every 
appearance that we should be obliged to remain 
here for some time. I then ordered the nets to 
be set, as it was absolutely necessary that the 



North-west continent of America, q 

stores provided for our future voyage should re- 
main untouched. The fish we now caught were 
carp, poisson inconnu, white fish, and trout. 

JVechiesday^ 10. It rained during the greatest 
part of the preceding night, and the weather did 
not clear up till the afternoon of this day. This 
circumstance had very much weakened the ice, 
and I sent two of the Indians on an hunting party 
to a lake at the distance of nine miles, which, 
they informed me, was frequented by animals of 
various kinds. Our fishery this day was not so 
abundant as it had been on the preceding after- 
noon. 

Thursday^ 11. The weather was fine and clear 
with a strong westerly wind. The women were 
employed in gathering berries of different sorts, 
of which there are a great plenty ; and I accom- 
panied one of my people to a small adjacent island, 
where we picked up some dozens of sw^an, geese, 
and duck-eggs ; we also killed a couple of ducks 
and a .q:oose. 

o 

In the evening the Indians returned, without 
having seen any of the larger animals. A swan 
and a grey crane were the only fruits of their ex- 
pedition. We caught no other fish but a small 
quantity of pike, which is too common to be a 
favourite food with the people of the country. 
The ice moved a little to the eastward. 

Friday^ 12. The weather continued the same 
as yesterday, and the musquitoes began to visit 
us in great numbers. The ice moved again in 
the same direction, and I ascended an hill, but 
could not perceive that it was broken in the mid- 
dle of the lake. The hunters killed a goose and 
three ducks. 

Saturday^ 13. The weather was cloudy, and 
the wind changeable till about sun- set, wlien it 
settled in the North. It drove back the ice which 



10 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

was now very much broken along the shore, and 
covered our nets. One of the hunters who had 
been at the Slave River the preceding evening, re- 
turned with three beavers and fourteen geese. He 
was accompanied by three families of Indians, 
who left Athabasca the same day as myself: they 
did not bring me any fowl ; and they pleaded in 
excuse, that they had travelled with so much ex- 
pedition, as to prevent them from procuring suf- 
ficient provisions for diemselves. By a meridian 
line, I found the variation of the compass to be 
about twenty degrees East. 

Sunday^ 14. The weather was clear and the 
wind remained in the same quarter. The ice was 
much broken, and driven to the side of the lake, 
so that we were apprehensive for the loss of our 
nets, as they could not, at present, be extricated. 
At sun- set there was an appearance of a violent 
gust of wind from the southward, as the sky be- 
came on a sudden, in that quarter, of a very dusky 
blue colour, and the lightning was very frequent. 
But instead of wind there came on a very heavy 
rain, which promised to diminish the quantity of 
broken ice. 

Monday^ 15. In the morning, the bay still con- 
tinued to be so full of ice, that we could not get at 
our nets. About noon, the wind veered to the West- 
ward, and not only uncovered the nets, but clear- 
ed a passage to the opposite islands. When we 
raised the nets we found them very much shatter- 
ed, and but few fish taken. We now struck our 
tents, and embarked at sun-set, when we made 
the traverse, which was about eight miles North- 
East by North in about two hours. At half past 
eleven P. M. we landed on a small island and pro- 
ceeded to s:um the canoe. At this time the at- 
mosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of read- 
ing or writing without the aid of artificial light. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 1 1 

We had not seen a star since the second day after 
we left Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the 
moon made its appearance above the tops of the 
trees, the lower horn being in a state of eclipse, 
which continued for about six minutes, in a 
cloudless sky. 

I took soundings three times in the course of the 
traverse, when I found six fathoms water, with a 
muddy bottom. 

Tuesday^ 16. We were prevented from embark- 
ing this morning by a very strong wind from the 
North, and the vast quantity of floating ice. Some 
trout were caught with the hook and line, but the 
net was not so successful. I had an observation 
which gave 61. 28. North latitude. 

The wind becoming moderate, we embarked 
about one, taking a North- West course, through 
islands of ten miles, in which we took in a consi- 
derable quantity of water. After making several 
traverses, we landed at five P. M. and having 
pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets, were 
immediately set. During the course of the day 
there was occasional thunder. 

Wednesday^ 17. We proceeded, and taking up 
our nets as we passed, we found no more thari 
seventeen fish, and were stopped within a mile by 
the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back 
to a point where our fishery was very successful. 
They proceeded also on a hunting party, as well as 
to discover a passage among the islands; but at 
three in the afternoon they returned without hav- 
ing succeeded in either object. We were, how- 
ever, in expectation, that, as the wind blew very 
strong, it would force a passage. About sun-set, 
the weather became overcast, with thunder, light- 
ning, and rain. 

Thursday^ 18. The nets were taken up at four 
this morning with abundance offish, and we steer- 

u 



12 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ed North'West four miles, where the ice again 
prevented our progress. A South-East wind 
drove it among the islands, in such a manner as 
to impede our passage, and we could perceive at 
some distance a-head, that it was but little broken. 
We now set our nets in four fathom water. Two 
of our hunters had killed a rein- deer and its fawn. 
They had met with two Indian families, and in 
the evening, a man belonging to one of them, paid 
us a visit; he informed me, that the ice had not 
stirred on the side of the island opposite to us. 
These people live entirely on fish, and were 
waiting to cross the lake as soon as it should be 
clear of ice. 

Friday^ 19. This morning our nets were un- 
productive, as they yielded us no more than six 
fish, which were of a very bad kind. In the fore- 
noon, the Indians proceeded to the large island 
opposite to us, in search of game. The weather 
w^as cloudy, and the wind changeable ; at the 
same time, we were pestered b}^ musquitoes, 
though, in a great measure, surrounded with ice. 

Saturday^ 20. We took up our nets, but with- 
out any fish. It rained very hard during the 
night and this morning : nevertheless, M. Le 
Roux and his people went back to the point which 
we had quitted on the 18th, but I did not think 
it prudent to move. As I was watching for a pas- 
sage through the ice, I promised to send for them 
when I could obtain it. It rained at intervals till 
about five o'clock ; when we loaded our canoe, 
and steered for the large island. West six miles. 
When we came to the point of it, we found a great 
quantity of ice ; we, however, set our nets, and 
soon caught plenty of fish. In our way thither 
we met our hunters, but they had taken nothing. 
I took soundings at an hundred yards from the 
island, when we were in twenty- one fathom water. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 13 

Here we found abundance of cranberries and small 
spring onions. I now dispatched two men for M. 
Le Roux, and his people. 

Simday, 21. A Southerly wind blew through 
the night, and drove the ice to the Northward. 
The two men whom I had sent to M. Le Roux, 
returned at eight this morning; they parted with 
him at a small distance from us, but the wind blew 
so hard, that he was obliged to put to shore. Hav- 
ing a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by 
my watch, I found the latitude 61. 34. North lati- 
tude. At two in the afternoon, M. Le Roux, and 
his people arrived. At five, the ice being almost 
all driven past to the Northward, we accordingly 
embarked, and steered West fifteen miles, through 
much broken ice, and on the outside of the islands, 
though it appeared to be very solid to the North- 
East. I sounded three times in this distance, and 
found it seventy-five, forty-four, and sixty fathom 
water. We pitched our tents on one of a cluster 
of small islands that were within three miles of the 
main land, which we could not reach in conse- 
quence of the ice. 

We saw some rein-deer on one of these islands, 
and our hunters went in pursuit of them, when 
they killed five large and two small ones, which 
was easily accomplished, as the animals had no 
shelter to which they could run for protection. 
They had, without doubt, crossed the ice to this 
spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them 
there, and made them an easy prey to the pur- 
suer. This island was accordingly named Isle 
de Carreboeuf. 

I sat up the whole of this night to observe the 
setting and rising of the sun. That orb was be- 
neath the horizon four hours twenty-two minutes, 
and rose North 20. East by compass. It, how- 
ever, froze so hard, that, during the sun's disap- 



14 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

pearance, the water was covered with ice half a 
quarter of an inch thick. 

Monday^ 22. We embarked at half past three 
in the morning, and rounding the outside of the 
islands, steered North- West thirteen miles along 
the ice, edging in for the main land, the wind 
West, then West two miles; but it blew so hard 
as to oblige us to land on an island at half past 
nine, froni whence we could just distinguish land 
to the South-East, at the distance of about twelve 
leagues; though we could not determine, whe- 
ther it was a continuation of the islands, or the 
shores of the lake.*^ I took an observation at 
noon, which gave me 61. SZ. North, the variation 
of the compass being, at the same time, about 
two points. M. Le Roux's people having pro- 
vided two bags o{pemican\ to be left in the island 
against their return; it was called Isle a la Cache* 

The wind being moderated, we proceeded again 
at half past two in the afternoon, and steering 
West by North among the islands, made a course 
of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock 
on a small island, and since eight in the morning 
had not passed any ice. Though the weather 
v/as far from being warm, wx were tormented, 
and our rest interrupted, by the host of musqui- 
toes that accompanied us. 

* Sometimes the land looms, so that there m.ay be a g;reat deception 
iis to the distance; and I think this was the case at present. 

t Flesh dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenienee 
«tf carriatre. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 15 



CHAPTER 11. 

Landed at some lodges of Red- Knife Indians : 
procure one of them to assist in naiiigating the 
bays. Conference with the Indians, Take 
lea'oe of M. Le Roux^ and continue the 'voy- 
age. Different appearances of the land; its 
'vegetable produce. Visit an island where the 
wood had been felled. Further description of 
the Coast, Plenty of rein and moose-deer^ and 
white partridges. Enter a n)ery deep bay. 
Interrupted by ice. Very blowing weather. 
Continue to coast the bay, Arrive at the mouth 
of a river. Great numbers of fish and wild- 
fowl. Description of the land on either side. 
Curious appearance of woods that had been 
burned. Came in sight of the Horn Mountain. 
Continue to kill geese and swans ^ ^c. Violent 
storm, 

June 1789. 

Tuesday, 2^. TOWARDS morning, the In- 
dians who had not been able to keep up with us 
the preceding day, now joined us, and brought 
two swans and a goose. At half past three we 
re- embarked, and steering West by North a mile 
and an half, with a Northerly wind, w^e came to 
the foot of a traverse across a deep bay, West five 
miles, which receives a considerable river at the 
bottom of it ; the distance about twelve miles. 
The North- West side of the bay was covered with 
many small islands that were surrounded with 
ice ; but the wind driving it a little off the land, 
we had a clear passage on the inside of them. We 
steered South-West nine miles under sail, then 
North- V/est nearly, through the islands, forming 
a course of sixteen miles. We landed on the 



16 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

main land at half past two in the afternoon at three 
lodges of Red- Knife Indians, so called from their 
copper knives. They informed us, that there 
were many more lodges of their friends at no great 
distance ; and one of the Indians set off to fetch 
them : they also said, that we should see no more 
of them at present ; as the Slave and Beaver In- 
dians, as well as others of the tribe, would not 
be here till the time that the swans cast their fea- 
thers. In the afternoon it rained a torrent. 

Wednesday^ 24. M. Le Roux purchased of 
these Indians upwards of eight packs of good bea- 
ver and marten skins ; and there were not above 
twelve of them qualified to kill beaver. The En- 
glish chief got upwards of an hundred skins on 
the score of debts due to him, of which he had 
many outstanding in this country. Forty of them 
he gave on account of debts due by him since the 
winters of 1786 and 1787, at the Slave Lake ; the 
rest he exchanged for rum and other necessary 
articles ; and I added a small quantity of that li- 
quor as an encouraging present to him and his 
young men. I had several consultations with 
these Copper Indian people, but could obtain no 
information that was material to our expedition ; 
nor were they acquainted with any part of the 
river, which was the object of my research, but 
the mouth of it. In order to save as much time 
as possible in circumnavigating the bays, I enga- 
ged one of the Indians to conduct us ; and I ac- 
cordingly equipped him with various articles of 
clothing, &c. I also purchased a large new ca- 
noe, that he might embark with the two young 
Indians in my service. 

This day, at noon, I took an observation, which 
gave nie 62. 24. North latitude ; the variation of 
the compass being about twenty-six or twenty- 
seven degrees to the East. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 17 

In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, in 
order to inform them that I should take my depar- 
ture on the following day ; but that people would 
remain on the spot till their countrymen, whom 
they had mentioned, should arrive ; and that, if 
they brought a sufficient quantity of skins to make 
it answer, the Canadians would return for more 
goods, with a view to winter here, and build a 
fort,* which would be continued as long as they 
should be found to deserve it. They assured me 
that it would be a great encouragement to them to 
have a settlement of ours in their country ; and 
that they should exert themselves to the utmost to 
kill beaver, as they would then be certain of get- 
ting an adequate value for them. Hitherto, they 
said, the Chepewyans always pillaged them ; or, 
at most, gave little or nothing for the fruits of 
their labour, which had greatly discouraged them; 
and that, in consequence of this treatment, they 
had no motive to pursue the beaver, but to obtain 
a sufficient quantity of food and raiment. 

I now wrote to Messrs. Macleod and Macken- 
zie, and addressed my papers to the former, at 
Athabasca. 

Thursday^ 25. We left this place at three this 
morning, our canoe being deeply laden, as we 
had embarked some packages that had come in 
the canoes of M. Le Roux. We were saluted on 
our departure with some vollies of small arms, 
which we returned, and steered South by West 
straight across the bay, which is here no more 
than two miles and a half broad, but, from the 
accounts of the natives, it is fifteen leagues in 
depth, with a much greater breadth in several 
parts, and full of islands. I sounded in the course 
of the traverse and found six fathoms with a sandy 

* Fort, is the name given to any establishmein in this country. 



18 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

bottom. Here, the land has a very different ap- 
pearance from that on which we have been since 
we entered the lake. Till we arrived here there 
w^as one continued view of high hills and islands 
of solid rock, whose surface was occasionally en- 
livened with moss, shrubs, and a few scattered 
trees, of a very stinted growth, from an insuffi- 
ciency of soil to nourish them. But, notwith- 
standing their barren appearance, almost every 
part of them produces berries of various kinds, 
such as cranberries, juniper-berries, raspberries, 
partridge-ben'ies, gooseberries, and the pathe- 
gomenan, which is something like a raspberry ; 
it grows on a small stalk about a foot and a half 
high, in wet, mossy spots. These fruits are in 
great abundance, though they are not to be found 
in the same places, but in situations and aspects 
suited to their peculiar natures. 

The land which borders the lake in this part is 
loose and sandy, but is well covered with wood, 
composed of trees of a larger growth : it gradually 
rises from the shore, and at some distance forms a 
ridge of high land running along the coast, thick 
with wood and a rocky summit rising above it. 

We steered South- South-East nine miles, when 
we were very much interrupted by drifting ice, 
and with some difficulty reached an island, where 
we landed at seven. I immediately proceeded to 
the further part of it, in order to discover if there 
was any probability of our being able to get from 
thence in the course of the day. It is about five 
miles in circumference, and I w^as very much sur- 
prised to find that the greater part of the wood with 
which it was formerly covered, had been cut down 
within twelve or fifteen years, and that the re- 
maining stumps were become altogether rotten. 
On making inquiry concerning the cause of this 
extraordinary circumstance, the English chief in- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 19 

formed me, that several winters ago, many of the 
Slave Indians inhabited the islands that were scat- 
tered over the bay, as the surrounding waters 
abound with fish throughout the year, but that 
they had been driven away by the Knisteneaux, 
who continually made war upon them. If an esta- 
blishment is to be made in this country, it must 
be in the neighbourhood of this place, on account 
of the wood and fishery. 

At eleven we ventured to re- embark, as the 
wind had driven the greatest part of the ice past 
the island, though we still had to encounter some 
broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage 
our canoe. We steered South- East from point to 
point across five bays, twenty-one miles. We 
took soundings several times, and found from six 
to ten fathom water. I observed that the country 
gradually descended inland, and was still better 
covered with wood than in the higher parts. — 
Wherever we approached the land, we perceived 
deserted lodges. The hunters killed two swans 
and a beaver; and at length we landed at eight 
o'clock in the evening, when we vmloaded and 
gummed our canoe. 

Friday, 26. We continued our route at five 
o'clock, steering South- East for ten miles across 
two deep bays; then South- South- East, w^ith isl- 
ands in sight to the Eastw^ard. We then traversed 
another bay in a course of three miles, then South 
one mile to a point which avc named the Detour, 
and South- South- West four miles and an half, 
when there was an heavy swell of the lake^ Here 
I took an observation, when we were in 61. 40. 
North latitude. We then proceeded South- 
West four miles, and West- South- West ajnong 
islands : on one of which our Indians killed two 
rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft wind in goii.g 
for them : this course was nine miles. About se- 



?0 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

veil in the evening we were obliged to land for the 
night, as the wind became too strong from the 
South-East. We thought we could observe land 
in this direction when the wind was coming on 
from some distance. On the other side of the De- 
tour, the land is low, and the shore is flat and dan- 
gerous, there being no safe place to land in bad 
weather, except in the islands which we had just 
passed. There seemed to be plenty of moose and 
rein-deer in this country, as we saw their tracks 
wherever we landed. There are also great num- 
bers of white partridges, which were at this season 
of a grey colour, like that of the moor-fowl. There 
was some floating ice in the lake, and the Indians 
killed a couple of swans. 

Saturday^ 27. At three this morning we were 
in the canoe, after having passed a very restless 
night from the persecution of the musquitoes. The 
weather was fine and calm, and our course West 
South- West nine miles, when we came to the foot 
of a traverse, the opposite point in sight bearing 
South- West, distance twelve miles. The bay is at 
least eight miles deep, and this course two miles 
more, in all ten miles. It now became very foggy, 
and as the bays were so numerous, we landed for 
two hours, when the weather cleared up, and wc 
took the advantage of steering South thirteen miles, 
and passed several small bays, when we came to 
the point of a very deep one, whose extremity was 
not discernible; the land bearing South from us, 
at the distance of about ten miles. Our guide not 
having been here for eight winters, was at a loss 
what course to take, though as well as he could re- 
collect, this bay appeared to be the entrance of the 
river. Accordingly, we steered down it, about 
West- South- West, till we were involved in a field 
of broken ice. We still could not discover the 
bottom of the bay, and a fog coming on, made it 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 21 

very difficult for us to get to an island to the South. 
West, and it was nearly dark when we effected a 
landing. 

Sunday^ 28. At a quarter past three we were 
again on the water, and as we could perceive no 
current setting into this bay, we made the best of 
our way to the point that bore South from us yes- 
terday afternoon. We continued our course South 
three miles more, South by West seven miles, 
West fifteen miles, when by observation we were 
in 61 degrees North latitude; we then proceeded 
West-North- West two miles. Here we came to 
the foot of a traverse, the opposite land bearing 
South- West, distance fourteen miles, when we 
steered into a deep bay, about a westerly course; 
and though we had no land ahead in sight, we in- 
dulged the hope of finding a passage, which, ac- 
cording to the Indian, would conduct us to the 
entrance of the river. 

Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of the 
Indians, nor could we put on shore to wait for 
them, without risking material damage to the ca- 
noe, till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were 
forced among the rushes ; when we discovered 
that there was no passage there. In about two or 
three hours they joined us, but would not approach 
our fire, as there was no good ground for an en- 
campment : they emptied their canoe of the wa- 
ter which it had taken in, and continued their 
route, but did not encamp till sun-set. The En- 
glish chief was very much irritated against the 
Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder 
him, for having undertaken to guide us in a course 
of which he was ignorant ; nor had we any rea- 
son to be satisfied wtith him, though he still con- 
tinued to encourage us, by declaring that he re- 
collected having passed from the river, through 
the woods, to the place where he had landed. In 



22 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to 
make use of our large kettle, to keep our canoe 
from filling, although we did not carry above three 
feet sail. The Indians very narrowly eacaped. 

Monday^ 29. We embarked at four this morn- 
ing, and steered along the South- West side of the 
bay. At half past five we reached the extremity 
of the point, which we doubled, and found it to be 
the branch or passage that was the object of our 
search, and occasioned by a very long island, which 
separates it from die main channel of the river. It 
is about half a mile across, and not more than six 
feet in depth ; the water appeared to abound in fish, 
and was covered with fowl, such as sw^ans, geese, 
and several kinds of ducks, particularly black 
ducks, that were very numerous, but we could not 
get within gun shot of them. 

The current, though not very strong, set us 
South- West by West, and we followed this course 
fourteen miles, till we passed the point of the long 
island, where the Slave Lake discharges itself, and 
is ten miles in breadth. There is not more than 
from five to two fathom water, so that when the 
lake is low, it may be presumed the greatest part 
of this channel must be dry. The river now turns 
to the Westward, becoming gradually narrower 
for twenty-four miles, till it is not more than half 
a mile wide ; the current, however, is then much 
stronger, and the soundings were three fathom 
and a half. The land on the North shore from the 
lake is low, and covered with trees; that to the 
South is much higher, and has also an abundance 
of wood. The current is very strong, and the 
banks are of an equal height on both sides, con- 
sisting of a yellow clay, mixed with small stones; 
they are covered with large quantities of burned 
wood, lying on the ground, and young poplar 
trees, that have sprung up since the fire that de- 
stroyed the larger wood. It is a very curious and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 23 

extraordinary circumstance, that land covered with 
spruce pine, and white birch, when laid waste by 
fire, should subsequently produce nothing but 
poplars, where none of that species of tree were 
previously to be found. 

A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us on at 
a great rate under sail, in the same course, though 
obliged to wind among islands. We kept the 
North channel for about ten miles, whose current 
is much stronger than that of the South; so that 
the latter is consequently the better road to come 
up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying 
away, we had recourse to our paddles. We kept 
our course to the North-West, on the North side 
of the river, which is here much wider, and as- 
sumes the form of a small lake; we could not, 
however, discover an opening in any direction, so 
that we were at a loss what course to take, as our 
Red- Knife Indian had never explored beyond our 
present situation. He at the same time informed 
us that a river falls in from the North, which takes its 
rise in the Horn Mountain, now in sight, which is 
the country of the Beaver Indians; and that he and 
his relations frequently meet on that river. He 
also added, that there are very extensive plains on 
both sides of it, which abound in buffaloes and 
moose deer. 

By keeping this course, we got into shallows, 
SQ that we were forced to steer to the left, till we 
recovered deep water, which we followed till the 
channel of the river opened on us to the southward, 
we now made for the shore, and encamped soon 
after sunset. Our course ought to have been West 
fifteen miles, since we took to the paddle, the 
Horn Mountains bearing from us North-West, 
and running North-North-East and South-South- 
West. Our soundings, which were frequent dur- 
ing the course of the dav, were from three to six 



24 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

fathoms water. The hunters killed two geese and 
a swan : it appeared, indeed, that great numbers 
of fowls breed in the islands which we had pass- 
ed. 

Tuesday^ 30. At four this morning we got un- 
der way, the weather being fine and calm. Our 
course was South- West by South thirty-six miles. 
On the South side of the river is a ridge of low 
mountains, running East and West by com.pass. 
The Indians picked up a white goose, which ap- 
peared to have been lately shot with an arrow, and 
was quite fresh. We proceeded South- West by 
South six miles, and then came to a bay on our 
left, which is full of small islands, and appeared 
to be the entrance of a river from the South. 
Here the ridge of mountains terminates. Thi^ 
course was fifteen miles. 

At six in the afternoon there was an appearance 
of bad weather ; we landed therefore, for the night ; 
but before we could pitch our tents, a violent tem- 
pest came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, 
which, however, soon ceased, but not before we 
had suffered the inconvenience of being drenched 
by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, 
having been employed in running after wild fowl, 
which had lately cast their feathers ; they, how- 
ever, caught live swans, and the same number of 
geese. I sounded several times in the course of 
the day, and found from four to six fathoms water. 



XORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 2S 



CHAPTER III. 

Continue our course. The river narrows. Lost 
the lead. Passed a small river. Fiolent rain. 
Land on a small island. Expect to arrive at 
the rapid. Conceal two bags of peniican in 
an island. A view of mountains. Pass se- 
veral encampments of the natives. Arrive 
among the islands. Ascend an high hill. Vio- 
lence of the current. Ice seen along the hanks 
of the river. Land at a village of the na^ 
tives. Their conduct and appearance. Their 
fabulous stories. Tht English Chief and In- 
dians discontented. Obtain a new guide. Sin- 
gular customs of the natives. An account of 
their dances. Description of their persons^ 
dress^ ornaments^ buildings^ arms for war 
and huntings canoes^ £s?c. Passed on among 
islands. Encamped beneath a hilU and pre- 
vented from ascending by the musquitoes. 
Landed at an encampment. Conduct of the 
inhabitants. They abound in fabulous accounts 
of dangers. Land at other encampments. Pro- 
cure plenty of hares and partridges. Our 
guide anxious to return. Land and alarm the 
natives^ called the Hare Indians^ ^c. Ex- 
change our guide. State of the weather, 

July, 1789. 

Wednesday^ 1. AT half past four in the morn- 
ing we continued our voyage, and in a short time 
found the river narrowed to about half a mile. 
Our course was Westerly among islands, with a 
strong current. Though the land is high on both 
sides, the banks are not perpendicular. This 
course was twenty-one miles ; and on sounding 
we found nine fathoms water. We then pro- 



26 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUCxH THE 

ceeded West-North-West nine miles, and passed 
a river upon the South- East side ; we sounded, 
and found twelve fathoms y and then we ^vent 
North- West by West three miles. Here I lost 
my lead, which had fastened at the bottom, with 
part of the line, the current running so strong 
that we could not clear it with eight paddles, and 
the strength of the line, which w^as equal to four 
paddles. Continued North by West live miles, 
and saw a high mountain, bearing South from 
us ; we then proceeded North- West by North 
four miles. We now passed a small river on the 
North side, then doubled a point to West-South- 
West. At one o'clock there came on lightning 
and thunder, with wind and rain, which ceased 
in about half an hour, and left us almost deluged 
Avith wet, as we did not land. There were great 
quantities of ice along the banks of the river. 

We landed upon a small island, where there 
were the poles of four lodges standing, which we 
concluded to have belonged to the Knisteneaux, 
on their war excursions, six or seven years ago. 
This course was fifteen miles West, to where 
the river of the Mountain falls in from the South- 
ward. It appears to be a very large river, whose 
mouth is half a mile broad. About six miles 
further a small river flows in the same direction ; 
and our whole course was twenty-four miles. We 
landed opposite to an island, the mountains to the 
Southward being in sight. As our canoe was 
deeply laden, and being also in daily expectation 
of coming to the rapids or fall, which we had 
been taught to consider with apprehension, we 
concealed two bags of pemican in the opposite 
island, in the hope that they would be of future 
service to us. The Indians were of a different 
opinion, as they entertained no expectation of re- 
turning that season, when the hidden provisions 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 27 

would be spoiled. Near us were two Indian en- 
campments of the last year. By the manner in 
which these people cut their wood, it appears that 
they have no iron tools. The current was very 
strong during the whole of this day's voyage, and 
in the article of provisions two swans were all that 
the hunters were able to procure. 

Thursday^ 2. The morning was very foggy: 
but at half past five we embarked ; it cleared up, 
however, at seven, when we discovered that the 
water, from being very limpid and clear, was be- 
come dark and muddy. This alteration must 
have proceeded from the influx of some river to 
the Southward, but where these streams first 
blended their waters, the fog had prevented us 
Irom observing. At nine we perceived a very high 
mountain a-head, which appeared, on our nearer 
approach, to be rather a cluster of mountains, 
stretching as far as our view could reach to the 
Southward, and whose tops were lost in the clouds. 
At noon there was lightning, thunder, and rain, 
and at one, we came abreast of the mountains ; 
their summits appeared to be barren and rocky, 
but their declivities were covered with wood ; 
they appeared also to be sprinkled with white 
stones, which glistened in the sun, and were 
called by the Indians manetoe aseniah^ or spirit 
stones. I suspected that they were Talc, though 
they possessed a more brilliant whiteness; on our 
return, however, these appearances were dis- 
solved, as they were nothing more than patches 
of snow. 

Our course had been West- South- West thirty 
miles and we proceeded with great caution, as we 
continually expected to approach some great ra- 
pid or fall. This was such a prevalent idea, that 
all of us were occasionally persuaded that we heard 
those sounds which betokened a fall of water. 



28 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Our course changed to West by North, along the 
mountains, twelve miles, North by West, twenty- 
one miles, and at eight o'clock in the evening, we 
went on shore for the night, on the North side of 
the river. We saw several encampments of the 
natives, some of which had been erected in the 
present spring, and others at some former period. 
The hunters killed only one swan and a beaver ; 
the latter was the first of its kind which we had 
seen in this river. The Indians complained of 
the perseverance with which we pushed forward, 
and that they were not accustomed to such severe 
fatigue as it occasioned. 

Friday^ 3. The rain was continual through 
the night, and did not subside till seven this morn- 
ing, when we embarked and steered North-North- 
West for twelve miles, the river being enclosed 
by high mountains on either side. We had a 
strong head-wind, and the rain was so violent as 
to compel us to land at ten o'clock. According 
to my reckoning, since my last observation, we 
had run two hundred and seventeen miles West, 
and forty four miles North. At a quarter past 
two the rain subsided, and we got again under 
way, our former course continuing for five miles. 
Here a river fell in from the North, and in a short 
time the current became strong and rapid, run- 
ning with great rapidity among rocky islands, 
which were the first that v/e had seen in this ri- 
ver, and indicated our near approach to rapids and 
falls. Our present course was North -West by 
North ten miles, North- West three miles, West- 
North- West twelve miles, and North- West three 
miles, when we encamped at eight in the even.f 
ing, at the foot of an high hill, on the North 
shore, which in some parts rose perpendi- 
cular from the river. T immediately ascended it, 
'accompanied by two men and some Indians, and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 29 

in about an hour and an half, with very hard 
walking, we gained the summit, when I was 
very much surprised to find it crowned by an en- 
campment. The Indians informed me, that it is 
the custom of the people who have no arms to 
choose these elevated spots for the places of their 
residence, as they can render them inaccessible 
to their enemies, particularly the Knisteneaux, 
of whom they are in continual dread. The pros- 
pect from this height was not so extensive as we 
expected, as it was terminated by a circular range 
of hills, of the same elevation as that on which 
we stood. The intervals between the hills were 
covered with small lakes, which were inhabited 
by great numbers of swans. We saw no trees but 
the pine and the birch, which were small in size 
and few in number. 

We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from 
the swarms of musquitoes which attacked us on 
all sides, and were, indeed, the only inhabitants of 
the place. We saw several encampments of the 
natives in the course of the day, but none of them 
were of this year's establishment. Since four in 
the afternoon the current had been so strong, that 
it was, at length, in an actual ebullition, and pro- 
duced an hissing noise like a kettle of water in a 
moderate state of boiling. The weather was now 
become extremely cold, which was the more sen- 
sibly felt, as it had been very sultry sometime be- 
fore and since we had been in the river. 

Saturday y 4. At five in the morning, the wind 
and weather having undergone no alteration from 
yesterday, we proceeded North-West by West 
twenty-two miles, North-West six miles, North- 
West by North four miles, and West-North- West 
five miles ; we then passed the mouth of a small 
river from the North, and after doubling a point. 
South- West one mile, we passed the influx of ano» 



30 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ther river from the South. We then continued 
our course North-North- West, with a mountain 
a-head, fifteen miles, when the opening of two 
rivers appeared opposite to each other : we then 
proceeded West four miles, and North-West thir- 
teen miles. At eight in the evening, v/e encamp- 
ed on an island. The current w^as as strong 
through the whole of this day as it had been the 
preceding afternoon ; nevertheless, a quantity of 
ice appeared along the banks of the river. The 
hunters killed a beaver and a goose, the former of 
which sunk before they could get to him : bea- 
vers, otters, bears, &c. if shot dead at once, re- 
main like a bladder, but if there remains enough 
of life for them to struggle, they soon fill with wa- 
ter and go to the bottom. 

Sunday^ 5. The sun set last night at fifty-three 
minutes past nine, by my watch, and rose at se- 
ven minutes before two this morning : we em- 
barked soon after, steering North-North- West, 
through islands for five miles, and West four 
miles. The river then encreased in breadth, and 
the current began to slacken in a small degree ; 
after the continuation of our course, we perceived 
a ridge of high mountains before us, covered 
with snow. West- South- West ten miles, and at 
three-quarters past seven o'clock, we saw several 
smokes on the North shore, which we made eve- 
ry exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we 
discovered the natives running about in great ap- 
parent confusion; some were making to the woods, 
and others hurrying to their canoes. Our hunt- 
ers landed before us, and addressed the few that 
had not escaped, in the Chipewyan language, 
which, so great was their confusion and terror, 
they did not appear to understand. But when 
they perceived that it was impossible to avoid us, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 31 

as we were all landed, they made us signs to keep 
at a distance, with which we complied, and not 
only unloaded our canoe, but pitched our tents, 
before we made any attempt to approach them. 
During this interval, the English chief and his 
young men were employed in reconciling them to 
our arrival ; and when they had recovered from 
their alarm, of hostile intention, it appeared that 
some of them perfectly comprehended the Ian. 
guage of our Indians ; so that they were at length 
persuaded, though not without evident signs of 
reluctance and apprehension, to come to us. 
Their reception, however, soon dissipated their 
fears, and they hastened to call their fugitive com- 
panions from their hiding places. 

There were five families, consisting of twenty- 
five or thirty persons, and of two different tribes, 
the Slave and Dog-rib Indians. We made them 
smoke, though it was evident they did not know 
the use of tobacco ; we likewise supplied them 
with grog ; but I am disposed to think, that they 
accepted our civilities rather from fear than incli- 
nation. We acquired a more effectual influence 
over them by the distribution of knives, beads, 
awls, rings, gartering, fire-steels, flints, and hatch- 
ets ; so that they became more familiar even than 
we expected, for we could not keep them out of 
our tents : though I did not observe that they at- 
tempted to purloin any thing. 

The information which they gave respecting 
the river, had so much of the fabulous, that I 
shall not detail it : it will be sufficient just to 
mention their attempts to persuade us, that it 
would require several winters to get to the sea, 
and that old age would come upon us before the 
period of our return : we were also to encounter 
monsters of such horrid shapes and destructive 
powers as could only exist in their vvild iniagina- 



32 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

tions. They added, besides, that there were two 
impassable falls in the river, the first of which was 
about thirty days march from us. 

Though I placed no faith in these strange rela- 
tions, they had a very diiferent effect upon our In- 
dians, who were already tired of the voyage. It 
was their opinion and anxious wish, that we 
should not hesitate to return. They said that, 
according to the information which they had re- 
ceived, there were very few animals in the coun- 
try beyond us, and that as we proceeded, the 
scarcity would increase, and we should absolutely 
perish from hunger, if no other accident befel us. 
It was with no small trouble that they were con- 
vinced of the folly of these reasonings ; and by my 
desire, they induced one of those Indians to ac- 
company us, in consideration of a small kettle, an 
axe, a knife, and some other articles. 

Though it was now three o'clock in the after- 
noon, the canoe was ordered to be reloaded, and 
as we were ready to embark our new recruit was 
desired to prepare himself for his departure, which 
he would have declined ; but as none of his friends 
would take his place, we may be said, after the 
delay of an hour, to have compelled him to em- 
bark. Previous to his departure a ceremony took 
place, of which I could not learn the meaning ; he 
cut off a lock of his hair, and having divided it 
into three parts, he fastened one of them to the 
hair on the upper part of his wife's head, blowing 
on it three times with the utmost violence in his 
power, and uttering certain words. The other 
two he fastened with the same formalities, on the 
heads of his two children. 

During our short stay with these people, they 
amused us with dancing, which they accompanied 
with their voices : but neither their song or their 
dance possessed much variety. The men and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 55 

women formed a promiscuous ring. The former 
have a bone dagger or piece of stick between the 
fingers of the right hand, which they keep extend- 
ed above the head, in continual motion : the left 
they seldom raise so high, but work it backwards 
and forwards in a horizontal direction ; while they 
leap about and throw themselves into various antic 
postures, to the measure of their music, always 
bringing their heels close to each other at every 
pause. The men occasionally howl in imitation 
of some animal, and he who continues this vio- 
lent exercise for the longest peri6d, appears to be 
considered as the best performer. The women 
suffer their arms to hang as without the power of 
motion. They are a meagre, ugly, ill-made 
people, particularly about the legs, which are 
very clumsy and covered with scabs. The latter 
circumstance proceeds probably from their habi- 
tually roasting them before the fire. Many of 
them appeared to be in a very unhealthy state, 
which is owing, as I imagine, to their natural 
filthiness. They are of a moderate stature, and 
as far as could be discovered, through the coat of 
dirt and grease that covers them, are of a fairer 
complexion than the generality of Indians who are 
the natives of warmer climates. 

Some of them have their hair of a great length ; 
while others suffer a long tress to fall behind, and 
the rest is cut so short as to expose their ears, but 
no other attention whatever is paid to it. The 
beards of some of the old men were long, and the 
rest had them pulled out by the roots, so that not 
a hair could be seen on their chins. The men 
have two double lines, either black or blue, tat- 
tooed upon each cheek, from the ear to the nose. 
The gristle of the latter is perforated so as to ad- 
mit a goose-quill or a small piece of wood to be 
passed through the orifice. Their clothing is 



54 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

made of the dressed skins of the rein or moose- 
deer, though more commonly of the former. 
These they prepare in the hair for vvinter, and 
make shirts of both, which reach to the middle of 
their thighs. Some of them are decorated with 
an embroidery of very neat workmanship with 
porcupine quills and the hair of the moose, co- 
loured red, black, yellow, and white. Their 
upper garments are sufficiently large to cover the 
whole body, with a fringe round the bottom, and 
are used both sleeping and awake. Their leggins 
come half way up the thigh, and are sewed to 
their shoes : they are embroidered round the ancle, 
and upon every seam. The dress of the women 
is the same as that of the men. The former have 
no covering on their private parts, except a tassel 
of leadier which dangles from a small cord, as it 
appears, to keep off the flies, which would other- 
wise be very troublesome. Whether circumci- 
sion be practised among them, I cannot pretend 
to say, but the appearance of it was general among 
those whom I saw. 

Their ornaments consist of gorgets, bracelets 
for the arms and wrists, made of wood, horn, or 
bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go 
round the head, composed of strips of leather of 
one inch and an half broad, embroidered with por- 
cupine quills, and stuck round with the claws 
of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are sus- 
pended a few short thongs of the skin of an animal 
that resembles the ermine, in the form of a tassel. 
Their cinctures and garters are formed of porcu- 
pine quills woven with sinews, in a style of pecu- 
liar skill and neatness : they have others of dif- 
ferent materials, and more ordinary workman- 
ship ; and to both they attach a long fringe of 
strings of leather, worked round with hair of va- 
rious colours. Their mittens are also suspended: 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 35 

from the neck in a position convenient for the re- 
ception of the hands. 

Their lodges are of a very simple structure : a 
few poles supported by a fork, and forming a se- 
micircle at the bottom, with some branches or a 
piece of bark as a covering, constitutes the whole 
of their native architecture. They build two of 
these huts facing each other, and make the fire 
between them. The furniture harmonises with 
the buildings : they have a few dishes of wood, 
bark, or horn ; the vessels in which they cook 
their victuals, are in the shape of a gourd, narrow 
at the top and wide at the bottom, and of watape,* 
fabricated in such a manner as to hold water, which 
is made to boil by putting a successon of red-hot 
stones into it. These vessels contain from two 
to six gallons. They have a number of small 
leather bags to hold tlieir embroidered work, lines, 
and nets. They always keep a large quantity of 
the fibres of willow bark, which they work into 
thread on their thighs. Their nets are from three 
to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to 
thirty-six meshes in depth. The short deep ones 
they set in the eddy current of rivers, and the long 
ones in the lakes. They likewise make lines of 
the sinews of the rein-deer, and manufacture their 
hooks from wood, horn, or bone. Their arms 
and weapons for hunting, are bows and arrows, 
spears, daggers, and pogamagans, or clubs. The 
bows are about five or six feet in length, and the 
strings are of sinews or raw skins. The arrows 
are two feet and an half long, including the barb, 
which is variously formed of bone, horn, flint, 
iron, or copper, and are winged with three fea- 



* Watape is the name given to the divided roots of the spruce-fir, 
which the natives weave into a degree of compactness that renders it ca- 
pable of containing a fluid. The different parts of the bark canoes are 
aho sewed together with this kuid of filament. 

Z 



?,C JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

tilers. The pole of the spears is about six feet m 
length, and pointed witli a barbed bone of ten 
inches. With this w^eapon they strike the rein- 
deer in the water. The daggers ai'e flat and sharp- 
pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of 
horn or bone. The pogamagon is made of the 
horn of the rein-deer, the branches being all cut 
off, except that which forms the extremity. This 
instrument is about two feet in length, and is em- 
ployed to dispatch their enemies in battle, and such 
animals as they catch in snares placed for that pur- 
pose. These are about tliree fathom long, and 
are made of the green skin of the rein or moose- 
deer, but in such small strips, that it requires 
from ten to thirty strands to make this cord, which 
IS not thicker than a cod-line ; and strong enough 
to resist any animal that can be entangled in it. 
Snares or nooses are also made of sinews to take 
lesser animals, such as hares and white partridges, 
which are very numerous. Their axes are manu- 
factured of a piece of brown or grey stone from six 
to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The 
inside is fiat, and the outside round and tapering 
to an edge, an inch wide. They are fastened by 
the middle w^ith the flat side inwards to a handle 
two feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is 
the tool with which they split their wood, and w^e 
believe, the only one of its kind among them. 
They kindle lire, by striking together a pieee of 
white or yellow pyrites and a flint stone, over a 
piece of touchwood. They are universally pro- 
vided with a small bag containing these materials, 
so that they are in a continual state of preparation 
to produce fire. From the adjoining tribes, the 
Red- Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in 
barter for marten skins and a few beaver, small 
pieces of iron, of which they manufacture knives, 
by fixing them at the end of a short stick, and 
with them and the beaver's teeth, they finish al| 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, sr 

their work. They keep them in a sheath hanging 
to their neck, which also contains their awls both 
of iron and horn. 

Their canoes are small, pointed at both ends, 
flat-bottomed and covered in the fore part. They 
are made of the bark of the birch-tree and fir- 
wood, but of so slight a construction, that the man 
whom one of these light vessels bears on the wa- 
ter, can, in return, carry it over land without any 
difficulty. It is very seldom that more than one 
person embarks in them, nor are they capable of 
receiving more than two. The paddles are six 
feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade 
of about eight inches wide. These people inform- 
ed us, that we had passed large bodies of Indians 
who inhabit the mountains on the east side of the 
river. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, 
-and our Indian acquaintance promised to remain 
on the bank of the river till the fall, in case we 
should return. Our course was West- South- West, 
and we soon passed the Great-Bear- Lake River, 
which is of a considerable depth, and a hundred 
yards wide ; its water is clear, and has the green- 
ish hue of the sea. We had not proceeded more 
than six miles when we were obliged to land for 
the night, in consequence of an heavy gust of 
wind, accompanied with rain. We encamped be- 
neatli a rocky hill, on the top of which, according 
to the information of our guide, it blew a storm 
every day throughout the year. He found him- 
self Very uncomfortable in his new situation, and 
pretended that he was very ill, in order that he 
might be permitted to return to his relations. To 
prevent his escape it became necessary to keep a 
strict watch over him during the night. 

Monday^ 6. At three o'clock, in a very raw 
^nd cloudy morning, we embarked, and steered 



38 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

West- South- West four miles, West four miles, 
West-North- West five miles, West eight miles. 
West by South sixteen miles, West twenty-seven 
miles, South- West nine miles, then West six 
miles, and encamped at half past seven. We pass- 
ed through numerous islands, and had the ridge 
of snowy mountains always in sight. Our con- 
ductor informed us that great numbers of bears 
and small white buffaloes, frequent those moun- 
tains, which are also inhabited by Indians. We 
encamped in a similar situation to that of the pre- 
ceding evening, beneath another high rocky hill, 
which I attempted to ascend, in company with one 
of the hunters, but before w^e had got half way 
to the summit, we were almost suffocated by 
clouds of musquitoes, and were obliged to return. 
I observed, however, that the mountains termi- 
nated here, and that a river flowed from the West- 
ward : I also discovered a strong ripling current or 
rapid which ran close under a steep precipice of 
the hill. 

Tuesday^ 7. We embarked at four in the morn- 
ing, and crossed to the opposite side of the river, in 
consequence of the rapid; but we might have 
spared ourselves this trouble, as there would have 
been no danger in continuing our course, without 
any circuitous deviation whatever. This circum- 
stance convinced us of the erroneous account gi- 
ven by the natives of the great and approaching 
dangers of our navigation, as this rapid was stat- 
ed to be one of them. Our course was now 
North-North- West three miles, West-North- 
West four miles. North- West ten miles. North 
tw^o miles, when we came to a river that flowed 
from the Eastward. Here we landed at an encamp- 
ment of four fires, all the inhabitants of which 
ran off with the utmost speed, except an old man 
and an old woman. Our guide called aloud to 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 39 

the fugitives, and entreated them to stay, but with- 
out effect: the old man, however, did not hesitate 
to approach us, and represented himself as too far 
advanced in life, and too indifferent about the 
short time he had to remain in the world, to be 
very anxious about escaping from any danger that 
threatened him ; at the same time he puUed his 
grey hairs from his head by handfuls to distribute 
among us, and implored our favour for himself 
and his relations. Our guide, however, at length 
removed his fears, and persuaded him to recal the 
fugitives, who consisted of eighteen people ; 
whom I reconciled to me on their return with 
presents of beads, knives, awls, &c. with which 
they appeared to be greatly delighted. They dif- 
fered in no respect from those whom we had al- 
ready seen; nor were they deficient in hospitable 
attentions ; they provided us with fish, which was 
very well boiled, and cheerfully accepted by us. 
Our guide still sickened after his home, and was 
so anxious to return thither, that we were under 
the necessity of forcing him to embark. 

These people informed us that wc were close to 
another great rapid, and that there were several 
lodges of their relations in its vicinity. Four ca- 
noes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out 
the particular channels we should follow for the 
secure passage of the rapid. They also abounded 
in discouraging stories concerning the dangers and 
difficulties which we were to encounter. 

From hence our course was North-North- East 
two miles, when the river appeared to be enclosed, 
as it were, with lofty, perpendicular, white rocks, 
which did not afford us a very agreeable prospect. 
We now went on shore, in order to examine the ra- 
pid, but did not perceive any signs of it, though 
the Indians still continued to magnify its dangers ; 
however, as they ventured down it, in their small 



40 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

canoes, our apprehensions were consequently re- 
moved, and we followed them at some distance, but 
did not find any increase in the rapidity of the cur- 
rent; at length the Indians informed us that we 
should find no other rapid but that which was now 
bearing us along. The river at this place is not 
above three hundred yards in breadth, but on 
sounding I found fifty fathoms water. At the 
two rivulets that offer their tributary streams from 
either side, we found six families, consisting of 
about thirty-five persons, who gave us an ample 
quantity of excellent fish, which were, however, 
confined to white fish, the poisson inconnu, and 
another of a round form and greenish colour, which 
was about fourteen inches in length. We gratified 
them with a few presents, and continued our voy- 
age. The men, however, followed us in fifteen 
canoes. 

This narrow channel is three miles long, and its 
course North-North- East. We then steered North 
three miles, and landed at an encampment of three 
or more families, containing twenty-two persons, 
which was situated on the bank of a river, of a con- 
siderable appearance, which came from the East-^ 
ward. We obtained hares and partridges from 
these people, and presented in return such articles 
as greatly delighted them. They very much re- 
gretted that they had no goods or merchandize to 
exchange with us, as they had left them at a lake, 
from whence the river issued, and in whose vici- 
nity some of their people were employed in setting 
snares for rein- deer. They engaged to go for their 
articles of trade, and would wait our return, which 
we assured them would be within two months. 
There was a youth among them in the capacity of 
a slave, whom our Indians understood much bet- 
ter than any of the natives of this country whom 
they had yet seen; he was invited to accompany 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 41 

US, but took the first opportunity to conceal him- 
aelf, and we saw him no more. 

We now steered West five miles, when we 
again landed, and found two families, containing 
seven people, but had reason to believe that there 
were others hidden in the woods. We received 
from them two dozen of hares, and they were 
about to boil two more, which they also gave us. 
We were not ungrateful for their kindness, and 
left them. Our course was now North- West 
four miles, and at nine we landed and pitched our 
tents, when one of our people killed a grey crane. 
Our conductor renewed his complaints, not, as he 
assured us, from any apprehension of our ill-treat- 
ment, but of the Esquimaux, whom he represented 
as a very wicked and malignant people; who 
would put us all to death. He added, also, that it 
was but two summers since a large party of them 
came up this river, and killed many of his rela- 
tions. Two Indians followed us from the last 
lodges. 

Wednesday^ 8. At half past two in the morn- 
ing we embarked, and steered a Westerly course, 
and soon after put ashore at two lodges of nine In- 
dians. We made them a few trifling presents, but 
without disembarking, and had proceeded but a 
small distance from thence, when we observed se- 
veral smokes beneath a hill, on the North shore, 
and on our approach we perceived the natives 
climbing the ascent to gain the woods. The Indi- 
ans, however, in the two small canoes which were 
a-head of us, having assured them of our friendly 
intentions, they returned to their fires, and we 
disembarked- Several of them were clad in harfe- 
skins, but in every other circumstance they resem- 
bled those whom we had already seen. We were^ 
however, informed that they were of a different 
tnbe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and fijsh 



42 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

are their principal support, from the scarcity of 
rein-deer and beaver, which are the only animals of 
the larger kind that frequent this part of the coun- 
try. They were twenty-five in number ; and a- 
mong them was a woman who was afflicted with an 
abscess in the belly, and reduced, in consequence, 
to a mere skeleton : at the same time several old 
women were singing and howling around her ; but 
whether these noises were to operate as a charm for 
her cure, or merely to amuse and console her, I do 
not pretend to determine. A small quantity of our 
usual presents were received by them with the 
greatest satisfaction. 

Here we made an exchange of our guide, who 
had become so troublesome that we were obliged 
to watch him night and day, except when he was 
upon the- water. The man, however, who had 
agreed to go in his place soon repented of his en- 
gagement, and endeavoured to persuade us that 
some of his relations further down the river, would 
readily accompany us, and were much better ac- 
quainted with the river than himself. But, as he 
had informed us ten minutes before that we should 
see no more of his tribe, we paid very little atten- 
tion to his remonstrances, and compelled him to 
embark. 

In about three hours a man overtook us in a 
small canoe, and we suspected that his object was 
to facilitate, in some way or other, the escape of 
our conductor. About twelve we also observed an 
Indian walking along the North-East shore, when 
the small canoes paddled towards him. We ac- 
cordingly followed, and found three men, three 
women, and two children, who had been on an 
hunting expedition. They had some flesh of the 
rein-deer, which they offered to us, but it was so 
rotten, as well as offensive to the smell, that we 
excused ourselves from accepting it. They had 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 43 

also their wonderful stories of danger and terror, 
as well as their countrymen, whom we had already- 
seen ; and we were now informed, that behind 
the opposite island there was a Manitoe or spirit, 
in the river, which swallowed every person that 
approached it. As it would have employed half a 
day to have indulged our curiosity in proceeding 
to examine this phenomenon, Ave did not deviate 
from our course, but left these people with the 
usual presents, and proceeded on our voyage. 
Our course and distance this day were West twen- 
ty-eight miles, West-North- West twenty-three 
miles, West-South- West six miles. West by 
North five miles. South- West four miles, and en- 
camped at eight o'clock. A fog prevailed the 
greater part of the day, with frequent showers of 
small rain. 



A a 



44 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER IV. 

The neiv guide makes his escape. Compel anO' 
ther to supply his place. Land at an encamp- 
ment of another tribe of Indians. Account of 
their manners, dress^ "weapons^ ^c. Traffic 
with them. Description of a beautiful fish. 
Engage another guide. His curious behamour. 
Kill a fox and ground-hog. Land at an en^ 
campment of a tribe called the Deguthee De- 
nees^ or ^arrellers. Saw fax growing wild. 
The ijarying character of the riuer and its 
banks. Distant mountains. Perplexity from 
the numerous channels of the ri'ver. Deter- 
mined to proceed. Land where there had been 
an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw large 
flocks of wild fowl. View of the sun at mid- 
night. Description of a place lately deserted 
by the Indians. Houses of the nati'ues descri- 
bed. Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. 
The discontents of our hunters renewed^ and 
pacified. Face of the country. Land at a 
spot lately inhabited. Peculiar circumstances 
of it. Arrive at the entrance of the lake. 
Proceed to an island. Some account of it* 

July, 1789. 

Thursday, 9, THUNDER and rain prevailed 
during the night, and, in the course of it, our 
guide deserted ; we therefore compelled another 
of these people, very much against his will, to 
supply the place of his fugitive countryman. We 
also took away the paddles of one of them who 
remained behind, that he might not follow us on 
any scheme of promoting the escape of his com» 
panion, who was not easily pacified. At length, 
however, we succeeded in the act of conciliation. 



l^ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 45 

and at half past three quitted our station. In a 
short time we saw a smoke on the East shore, and 
directed our course towards it. Our new guide 
began immediately to call to the people that be- 
longed to it in a particular manner, which we did 
not comprehend. He informed us that they were 
not of his tribe, but were a very wicked, malig- 
nant people, who would beat us cruelly, pull our 
hair with great violence from our heads, and mal- 
treat us in various other ways. 

The men waited our arrival, but the women 
and children took to the woods. There were but 
four of these people, and previous to our landing, 
they all harangued us at the same moment, and 
apparently with violent anger and resentment. 
Our hunters did not understand them, but no 
sooner had our guide addressed them, than they 
were appeased. I presented them with beads, 
awls, &c. and when the women and children re- 
turned from the woods, they were gratified with 
similar articles. There w«re fifteen of them ; and 
of a more pleasing appearance than any which we 
had hitherto seen, as they were healthy, full of 
flesh, and clean in their persons. Their language 
was somewhat different, but I believe chiefly in 
the accent, for they and our guide conversed in- 
telligibly with each other; and the English chief 
clearly comprehended one of them, though he was 
not himself understood. 

Their arms and utensils differ but little from 
those which have been described in a former chap- 
ter. The only iron they have is in small pieces, 
which serve them for knives. They obtain this 
metal from the Esquimaux Indians. Their ar- 
rows are made of very light wood, and are wing- 
ed only with two feathers ; their bows differed 
from any which we had seen, and we understood 
that they were furnished by the Esquimaux, who 



46 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

are their neighbours : they consist of two pieces, 
with a very strong cord of sinews along the back, 
which is tied in several places, to preserve its 
shape ; when this cord becomes Avet, it requires a 
strong bow-string, and a powerful arm to draw 
it. The vessel in which they prepare their 
food, is made of a thin frame of wood, and of 
an oblong shape ; the bottom is fixed in a groove, 
in the same manner as a cask. Their shirts 
are not cut square at the bottom, but taper to a 
point, from the belt downwards as low as the knee, 
both before and behind, with a border, embel- 
lished with a short fringe. They use also another 
fringe, similar to that which has been already des- 
cribed, with the addition of the stone of a grey 
farinaceous berry, of the size and shape of a large 
barley-corn : it is of a brown colour, and fluted^ 
and being bored is run on each string of the fringe; 
with this they decorate their shirts, by sewing it 
in a semicircle on the breast and back, and cros- 
sing over both shoulders ; the sleeves are wide 
and short, but the mittens supply their deficiency, 
as they are long enough to reach over a part of 
the sleeve, and are commodiously suspended by a 
cord from the neck. If their leggins were made 
with waistbands, they might with great propriety 
be denominated trowscrs : they fasten them with 
a cord round the middle, so that they appear to 
have a sense of decency which their neighbours 
cannot boast. Their shoes are sewed to their 
leggins, and decorated on every seam. One of 
the men was clad in a shirt made of the skins of 
the musk-rat. The dress of the women is the 
same as that of the men, except in their shirts, 
which are longer, and v/ithout the finishing of a 
fringe on their breast. Their peculiar mode of 
tying the hair is as follows : — that which grows 
on the temples, or the fore part of the skull, is 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 47 

formed into two queues, hanging down before the 
ears; that of the scalp or crown is fashioned in 
the same manner to the back of the neck, and is 
then tied with the rest of the hair, at some distance 
from the head. A thin cord is employed for these 
purposes, and very neatly worked with hair, ar- 
tificially coloured. The women, and, indeed, 
some of the men, let their hair hang loose on their 
shoulders, whether it be long or short. 

We purchased a couple of very large moose skins 
from them, which were very well dressed ; indeed 
we did not suppose that there were any of those 
animals in the country ; and it appears from the ac- 
counts of the natives themselves, that they are very 
scarce. As for the beaver, the existence of such 
a creature does not seem to be known by them. 
Our people bought shirts of them, and many curi- 
ous articles, &c. They presented us with a most 
delicious fish, which was less than a herring, and 
very beautifully spotted with black and yellow : 
its dorsal fin reached from the head to the tail ; in 
its expanded state takes a triangular form, and is 
variegated with the colours that enliven the scales : 
the head is very small, and the mouth is armed 
with sharp-pointed teeth. 

We prevailed on the native, whose language 
was most intelligible, to accompany us. He in- 
formed us that we should sleep ten nights more 
before we arrived at the sea ; that several of his 
relations resided in the immediate vicinity of this 
part of the river, and that in three nights we should 
meet with the Esquimaux, vvdth whom they had 
formerly made war, but were nov/ in a state of 
peace and amity. He mentioned the last Indians 
whom we had seen in terms of great derision ; de- 
scribing them as being no better than old women, 
and as abominable liars ; which coincided with 
the notion we alreadv entertained of them. 



48 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

As we pushed off, some of my men discharged 
their fowling pieces, that were only loaded with 
powder, at the report of which the Indians were 
very much alarmed, as they had not before heard 
the discharge of fire arms. This circumstance 
had such an effect upon our guide, that we had 
reason to apprehend he would not fulfil his pro- 
mise. When, however, he was informed that the 
noise which he had heard was a signal of friendship, 
he was persuaded to embark in his own small canoe, 
though he had been offered a seat in ours. 

Two of his companions, whom he represented 
as his brothers, followed us in their canoes ; and 
they amused us not only with their native songs, 
but with others, in imitation of the Esquimaux ; 
and our new guide was so enlivened by them, 
that the antics he performed, in keeping time to 
the singing, alarmed us with continual apprehen- 
sion that his boat must upset : but he was not 
long content with his confined situation, and pad- 
dling up along-side our canoe, requested us to re- 
ceive him in it, though but a short time before 
he had resolutely refused to accept our invitation. 
No sooner had he entered our canoe, than he 
began to perform an Esquimaux dance, to our no 
small alarm. He was, however, soon prevailed 
upon to be more tranquil ; when he began to dis- 
play various indecencies, according to the customs 
of the Esquimaux, of which he boasted an inti- 
mate acquaintance. On our putting to shore, in 
order to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on 
the opposite hill the Esquimaux, three winters 
before, killed his grandfather. We saw a fox, 
and a ground-hog on the hill, the latter of which 
the brother of our guide shot with his bow and 
arrov/. 

About four in the afternoon we perceived a 
smoke on the West shore, when wq traversed and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 49 

landed. The natives made a most terrible up- 
roar, talking with great vociferation, and running 
about as if they were deprived of their senses, while 
the greater part of the women, with the children, 
fled away. Perceiving the disorder which our ap- 
pearance occasioned among these people, we had 
waited some time before we quitted the canoe ; 
and I have no doubt, if we had been without 
people to introduce us, that they would have at- 
tempted some violence against us ; for when the 
Indians send away their women and children, it is 
always with a hostile design. At length we pa- 
cified them with the usual presents, but they pre- 
ferred beads to any of the articles that I offered 
them -, particularly such as were of a blue colour ; 
and one of them even requested to exchange a 
knife which I had given him for a small quantity 
of those ornamental baubles. I purchased of them 
two shirts for my hunters ; and at the same time 
they presented me with some arrows, and dried 
fish. This party consisted of five families, to the 
amount, as I suppose, of forty men, women, and 
children ; but I did not see them all, as several 
were afraid to venture from their hiding-places. 
They are called Deguthee DineeSy or the ^ar^ 
Tellers. 

Our guide, like his predecessors, now mani- 
fested his wish to leave us, and entertained similar 
apprehensions that we should not return by this 
passage. He had his alarms also respecting the 
Esquimaux, who might kill us and take away the 
women. Our Indians, however, assured him that 
we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not 
be alarmed for himself. They also convinced hira 
that we should return by the way we were going, 
so that he consented to re-embark without giving 
us any further trouble; and eight small canoes fol- 
lowed us. Our courses this day were South- West 



50 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

by West six miles, South- West by South thirty 
miles, South- West three miles, West by South 
twelve miles, West by North two miles, and we 
encamped at eight in the evening on the Eastern 
bank of the river. 

The Indians whom I found here, informed me, 
that from the place where I this morning met the 
first of their tribe, the distance overland, on the 
East side, to the sea, was not long, and that from 
hence, by proceeding to the Westward, it was 
still shorter. They also represented the land on 
both sides as projecting to a point. These people 
do not appear to harbour any thievish dispositions; 
at least we did not perceive that they took, or want- 
ed to take, any thing from us by stealth or artifice. 
They enjoyed the amusements of dancing and 
jumping in common with those we had already 
seen ; and, indeed, these exercises seem to be 
their favourite diversions. About mid-day the 
weather was sultry, but in the afternoon it became 
cold. There was a large quantity of wild flax, the 
growth of the last year, laying on the ground, and 
the new plants were sprouting up through it. This 
circumstance I did not observe in any other part. 

At four in the morning we embarked, at a small 
distance from the place of our encampment : the 
river, which here becomes narrower, flows be- 
tween high rocks; and a meandring course took 
us North- West four miles. At this spot the banks 
became low ; indeed, from the first rapid, the 
country does not wear a mountainous appearance ; 
but the banks of the river are generally lofty, in 
some places perfectly naked, and in others well 
covered with small trees, such as the fir and the 
birch. We continued our last course for two 
miles, with mountains before us, whose tops wxrc 
covered with snow. 



KORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 51 

The land is low on both sides of the river, ex- 
cept these mountains, whose base is distant about 
ten miles : here the river widens, and runs through 
various channels, formed by islands, some of which 
are without a tree, and little more than banks of 
mud and sand ; while others are covered with a 
kind of spruce fir, and trees of a larger size than 
we had seen for the last ten days. Their banks, 
which are about six feet above the surface of the 
water, display a face of solid ice, intermixed with 
veins of black earth, and as the heat of the sun 
melts the ice, the trees frequently fall into the ri- 
ver. 

So various were the chamiels of the river at this 
time, that w*e were at a loss which to take. Our 
guide preferred the Easternmost, on account of 
the Esquimaux, but I determined to take the mid- 
dle channel, as it appeared to be a larger body of 
water, and running North and South: besides, as 
there was a greater chance of seeing them I con- 
cluded, that we could always go to the Eastward, 
whenever we might prefer it. Our course was 
now West by North six miles, North-West by 
West, the snowy mountains being West by South 
from us, and stretching to the Northward as far 
as we could see. According to the information 
of the Indians, they are part of the chain of moun- 
tains which we approached on the third of this 
month. I obtained an observation this day that 
gave me 67. 47. North latitude, which was far- 
ther North than I expected, according to the 
course I kept : but the difference was owing to 
the variation of the compass, which was more 
Easterly than I imagined. From hence it was 
evident that these waters emptied themselves into 
the Hyperborean Sea ; and though it was proba- 
ble that, from the want of provision, we could 
not return to Athabasca in the course of the sea- 

s b. 



52 JOURNAL GF A VOYAGE THROUGIi TH£ 

son, I nevertheless, determined to penetrate to the 
discharge of them. 

My new conductor being very much discoti- 
raged and quite tired of his situation, used his in- 
fluence to prevent our proceeding. He had never 
been, he said, at the Benahullo Toe^ or White 
Man's Lake ; and that when he went to the Esqui- 
maux Lake, which is at no great distance, he pas- 
sed over land from the place where we found him, 
stnd to that part where the Esquimaux pass the 
summer. In short, my hunters also became so 
disheartened from these accounts, and other cir- 
cumstances, that I was confident they would have 
left me, if it had been in their power. I, howe- 
ver, satisfied them in some degree, by the assut*^ 
ance, that I Would proceed onwards but sev^n 
days more, and if I did not then get to the sea, I 
would return. Indeed, the low state of our pro- 
visions, v/ithout any other consideration, formed 
a very sufficient security for the maintenance of 
my engagement. Our last course was thirty-two 
miles, with a stronger current than could be ex- 
pected in such a low country. 

We now proceeded North-North-West four 
miles, North-West three miles, North-East two 
miles, North-West by West three miles, and 
North-East two miles. At half past eight in the 
evening \\t landed and pitched our tents, near to 
where there had been three encampments of the 
Esquimaux, since the breaking up of the ice. 
The natives, who followed us yesterday, left us 
at our station this morning. In the course of the 
day we saw large flocks of wild fowl. 

Saturday^ 11. I sat up all night to observe the 
sun. At half past twelve I called up one of the 
men to view a spectacle which he had never be- 
fore seen ; v;hen, on seeing the sun so high, he 
thought it v/as a signal to embark, and began to 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 53 

call tlie rest of his companions, who would scarce- 
ly be persuaded by me, that the sun had not de- 
scended nearer to the horizon, and that it was now 
but a short time past midnight. 

We reposed, however, till three quarters after 
three, when we entered the canoe, and steered 
about North- West, the river taking a very serpen- 
tine course. About seven we saw a ridge of high 
land; at twelve we landed at a spot where we ob- 
served that some of the natives had lately been. I 
counted thirty places where there had been fires; 
and some of the men who went further, saw as 
many more. They must have been here for a con- 
siderable time, though it does not appear that they 
had erected any huts. A great number of poles, 
however, were seen fixed in the river, to which 
th y had attached their nets, and there seemed to 
be an excellent fishery. One of the fish, of the 
many which we saw leap out of the water, fell into 
our canoe; it was about ten inches long, and of a 
round shape. About the places where they had 
made their fires, were scattered pieces of whale- 
bone, and thick burned leather, w^ith parts of the 
frames of three canoes; we could also observe 
where they had spilled train oil; and there was the 
singular appearance of a spruce fir, stript of its 
branches to the top like an English may-pole. The 
weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unplea- 
sant. From this place for about five miles, the 
river widens, it then flows in a variety of narrow, 
meandering channels, amongst low islands, enliv- 
ened with no trees, but a few dwarf v.illows. 

At four, we landed, where there were three 
houses, or rather huts, belonging to the natives. 
The ground-plot is of an oval form, about fifteen 
feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight 
feet at either end ; the whole of it is dug about 
twelve inches below the surface of the ground, and 



54 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

one half of it is covered over with willow branches; 
which probably serves as a bed for the whole fa- 
mily. A space, in the middle of the other part, 
of about four feet wide, is deepened twelve inches 
more, and is the only spot in the house where a 
grown person can stand upright. One side of 
it is covered, as has been already described, and 
the other is the hearth or fire-place, of which, how- 
ever, they do not make much use. Though it was 
close to the wall, the latter did not appear to be bur- 
ned. The door or entrance is in the middle of one 
end of the house, and is about two feet and an half 
high, and two feet wide, and has a covered way or 
porch five feet in, length ; so that it is absolutely 
necessary to creep on all fours in order to get into, 
or out of, this curious habitation. There is a hole 
of about eighteen inches square on the top of it, 
which serves the three-fold purpose of a window, an 
occasional door, and a chimney. The under- 
ground part of the floor is lined with split wood. 
Six or eight stumps of small trees driven into the 
earth, with the root upwards, on which are laid 
some cross pieces of timber, support the roof of 
the building, which is an oblong square of ten feet 
by six. The whole is made of drift- w^ood covered 
with branches and dry- grass ; over which is laid 
a foot deep of earth. On each side of these hou- 
ses are a few square holes in the ground of about 
two feet in depth, which are covered with split 
wood and earth, except in the middle. These ap- 
peared to be contrived for the preservation of the 
winter stock of provisions. In and about the hou- 
ses we found sledge runners and bones, pieces of 
w^halebone, and poplar bark cut in circles, which 
are used as corks to buoy the nets, and are fixed 
to them by pieces of whalebone. Before each hut 
a great number of stumps of trees were fixed in the 
ground, upon which it appeared that they hung 
their fish to dry. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 55 

We now continued our voyage, and encamped 
at eight o'clock. T calculated our course at about 
North- West, and, allowing for the windings, that 
we had made fifty-four miles. We expected, 
throughout the day, to meet with some of the na- 
tives. On several of the islands we perceived the 
print of their feet in the sand, as if they had been 
there but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. 
There were frequent showers of rain in the after- 
noon, and the weather was raw and disagreeable. 
We saw a black fox ; but trees were now become 
very rare objects, except a few dwarf willows, of 
not more than three feet in height. 

The discontents of our hunters were now renewed 
by the accounts which our guide had been giving 
of that part of our voyage that was approaching. 
According to his information, we were to see a 
larger lake on the morrow. Neither he nor his re- 
lations, he said, knew any thing about it, except 
that part which is opposite to, and not far from, 
their country. The Esquimaux alone, he added, 
inhabit its shores, and kill a large fish that is found 
in it, which is a principal part of their food ; this, 
we presumed, must be the whale. He also mention- 
ed white bears, and another large animal which 
was seen in those parts, but our hunters could not 
understand the description which he gave of it. 
He also represented their canoes as being of a 
large construction, which would commodiously 
contain four or five families. However, to recon- 
cile the English chief to the necessary continuance 
in my service, I presented him with one of my ca- 
pots or travelling coats ; at the same time, to satisfy 
the guide, and keep him, if possible, in good hu- 
mour, I gave him a skin of the moose-deer, which, 
in his opinion, was a valuable present. 

Sunday^ 12. It rained with violence throughout 
the night, and till two in the morning ; the weather 



56 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

continuing very cold. We proceeded on the same 
meandering course as yestei^ay, the wind North- 
North- West, and the country so nated that scarce 
a shrub was to be seen. At ten in the morning, 
we landed where there were four huts, exactly the 
same as those which have been so lately described* 
The adjacent land is high and covered with short 
grass and flowers, though the earth was not thawed 
above four inches from the surface; beneath which 
was a solid body of ice. This beautiful appear- 
ance, however, was strangely contrasted with the 
ice and snow that are seen in the valiies. The 
soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed 
with stones. These huts appear to have been in- 
habited during the last winter ; and we had reason 
to think, that some of the natives had been lately 
there, as the beach was covered with the track of 
their feet. Many of the runners and bars of their 
sledges were laid together, near the houses, in a 
manner that seemed to denote the return of the 
proprietors. There were also pieces of netting 
made of sinews, and some bark of the willow. The 
thread of the former was plaited, and no ordinary 
portion of time must have been employed in ma- 
nufacturing so great a length of cord. A square 
stone-kettle, with a fiat bottom, also occupied our 
attention, which was capable of containing two gal- 
lons ; and we were puzzled as to the means these 
people must have empio} ed to have chiselled it 
out of a solid rock into its present form. To these 
articles may be added, small pieces of flint fixed 
into handles of wood, which probably serve as 
knives ; several wooden dishes ; the stern and part 
of a large canoe ; pieces of very thick leather, 
which we conjectured to be the covering of a ca- 
noe ; several bones of large fish, and two heads ; 
but we could not determine the animal to which 
they belonged, though v/e conjectured that it must 
be the sea-horse. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. ^7 

When we had satisfied our curiosity we re- 
cmbarked, but we were at a loss what course to 
steer, as our guide seemed to be as ignorant of this 
country as ourselves. Though the current was 
very strong, we appeared to have come to the en- 
trance of the lake. The stream set to the West, 
and we went with it to an high point, at the distance 
of about eight miles, which we conjectured to be 
an island; but, on approaching it, we perceived it to 
be connected with the shore by a low neck of land. 
I now took an observation which gave 69. 1. North 
latitude. From the point that has been just men- 
tioned, we continued the same course for the Wes- 
ternmost point of an high island, and the Western- 
most land in sight, at the distance of fifteen miles. 

The lake was quite open to us to the Westward, 
and out of the channel of the river there was not 
more than four feet water, and in some places the 
depth did not exceed one foot. From the shallow- 
ness of the water it was impossible to coast to the 
Westward. At five o^clock we arrived at the island, 
and during the last fifteen miles, five feet was the 
deepest water. The lake now appeared to be co- 
vered with ice, for about two leagues distance, and 
no land ahead, so that we were prevented from pro- 
ceeding in this direction by the ice, and the shal- 
lowness of the water along the shore. 

We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this 
direction, and as soon as the tents were pitched I 
ordered the nets to be set, when I proceeded with 
the English chief to the highest part of the island, 
from which we discovered the solid ice, extending 
from the South- West by compass to the Eastward. 
As far as the eye could reach to the South- West- 
ward, we could dimly perceive a chain of moun- 
tains, stretching further to the North than the edge 
of the ice, at the distance of upwards of twenty 
leagues. To the Eastward we saw many islands. 



^5 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and in our progress we met with a considerable 
number of white partridges, now become brown. 
There were also flocks of very beautiful plovers, 
and I found the nest of one of them with four eggs. 
White owls, likewise, were among the inhabitants 
of the place : but the dead, as well as the living, 
demanded our attention, for we came to the grave 
of one of the natives, by which lay a bow, a pad- 
dle, and a spear. The Indians informed me that 
they landed on a small island, about four leagues 
from hence, where they had seen the tracks of two 
men, that were quite fresh ; they had also found a 
secret store of train oil, and several bones of white 
bears were scattered about the place where it was 
hid. The wind was now so high that it was im- 
practicable for us to visit the nets. 

My people could not, at this time, refrain from 
expressions of real concern, that they were obliged 
to return without reaching the sea: indeed the hope 
of attaining this object encouraged them to bear, 
without repining, the hardships of our unremitting 
voyage. For some time past their spirits were ani- 
mated by the expectation that another day would 
bring them to the Mer d'^ouest : and even in our 
present situation they declared their readiness to 
follow me wherever I should be pleased to lead 
them. We saw several large white gulls, and other 
birds, whose back, and upper feathers of the wing 
are brown; and whose belly, and under feathers of 
the wing are white. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 59 



CHAPTER V. 

The baggage remcued from the rising of the wa- 
ter. One of the nets driven away by the wind 
and current. Whales are seen. Go in pursuit 
of them, but prevented from continuing it by the 
fog. Proceed to take a view of the ice. ^ Canoe 
in danger from the swell. Examine the islands. 
Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpe- 
tuate our visit there. The rising of the water 
appears to be the tide. Successful fishing. Un- 
certain weather. Sail among the islands. 
Proceed to a river. Temperature of the ait- 
improves. Land on a small island, which is 
a place of sepulture. Description of it. See a 
great number of%mldfovA. Fine view of the 
river from the high land. The hunters hill 
rein-deer. Cranberries, £sfc. found in great 
plenty. The appearance and state of the coun- 
try. Our guide deserts. Large flight of geese: 
kill many of them. Violent rain. Return up 
the river. Leave the channels for the mam 
stream. Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among 
the natives. Circumstances concerning them. 
Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. Ac- 
company the natives to their huts. Account of 
our provisions. 

July, 1789. . ^ ^ 

Monday, 13. WE had no sooner retired to rest 
last night, if I may use that expression, in a coun- 
try where the sun never sinks beneath the horizon, 
than some of the people were obliged to rise and 
remove the baggage, on account of the rismg of 
the water. At eight in the morning the weather 
was fine and calm, which afforded an opportunity to 
examine the nets, one of which had been driven 

c c 



60 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

from its position by the wind and current. We 
caught seven poissons inconnus, which were unpa- 
latable; a white fish, that proved delicious; and 
another about the size of an herring, which none 
of us had ever seen before, except the English 
chief, who recognized it as being of a kind that 
abounds in Hudson's Bay. About noon the wind 
blew hard from the Westward, when I took an ob- 
servation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and 
the meridian variation of the compass was thirty- 
six degrees Eastward.* 

This afternoon I re-ascended the hill, but could 
not discover that the ice had been put in motion by 
the force of the wind. At the same time I could 
just distinguish two small islands in the ice, to the 
North- West by compass. I now thought it neces- 
sary to give a new net to my men to mount, in order 
to obtain as much provision as possible from the 
water, our stores being reduced to about five hun- 
dred weight, which, without any other supply, 
would not have sufficed for fifteen people above 
twelve days. One of the young Indians, however, 
was so fortunate as to find the net that had been 
missing, and which contained tliree of the poissons 
inconnus. 

Tuesday^ 14. It blew very hard from the North- 
West since the preceding evening. Having sat up 
till three in the morning, I slept longer than usual; 
but about eight one of my men saw a great many 
animals in the water, which he at first supposed ta 
be pieces of ice. About nine, however, I was awak- 
ened to resolve the doubts which had taken place 
respecting this extraordinary appearance. I im- 
mediately perceived that they were whales; and 
having ordered the canoe to be prepared, we em- 



* The, longitude has since been discovered, by the dead reckoning, to 
be 135. West. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 6 \ 

l3arkecl in pursuit of them. It was, indeed, a very 
Avild and unrellecting enterprise, and it was a very 
fortunate circumstance that we failed in our attempt 
to overtake them, as a stroke from the tail of one 
of these enormous fish would have dashed the ca- 
noe to pieces. We may, perhaps, have been in- 
debted to the foggy weather for our safety, as it 
prevented us from continuing our pursuit. Our 
guide informed us that they are the same kind of 
fish which are the principal food of the Esqui- 
maux, and they were frequently seen as large as 
our canoe. The part of them which appeared 
above the water was altogether white, and they 
were much larger than the largest porpoise. 

About twelve the fog dispersed, and being cu- 
rious to take a view of the ice, I gave orders for 
the canoe to be got in readiness. We accordingly 
embarked, and the Indians followed us. We had 
not, however, been an hour on the water, when 
the wind rose on a sudden from the North- East, 
and obliged us to tack about, and the return of the 
fog prevented us from ascertaining our distance 
from the ice ; indeed, from this circumstance, the 
island which we had so lately left was but dimly 
seen. Though the wind was close, we ventured to 
hoist the sail, and from the violence of the swell 
it was by great exertions that two men could bale 
out the water from our canoe. We were in a state 
of actual danger, and felt every corresponding emo- 
tion of pleasure when we reached the land. The 
Indians had fortunately got more to windward, so 
that the swell in some measure drove them on 
shore, though their canoes were nearly filled with 
water ; and had they been laden, we should have 
seen them no more. As I did not propose to sa- 
tisfy my curiosity at the risk of similar dangers, 
we continued our course along the islands, which 
screened us from the wind. I was now determine 



62 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ed to take a more particular examination of the 
islands, in the hope of meeting with parties of the 
natives, from whom I might be able to obtain 
some interesting intelligence, though our conduc- 
tor discouraged my expectations, by representing 
them as very shy and inaccessible people. At the 
same time he informed me, that we should pro- 
bably find some of them, if we navigated the chan- 
nel which he had originally recommended us to 
enter. 

At eight we encamped on the Eastern end of 
the island, which I had named the Whale Island. 
It is about seven leagues in length. East and West 
by compass ; but not more than half a mile in 
breadth. We saw several red foxes, one of which 
was killed. There were also five or six very old 
huts on the point where we had taken our station. 
The nets were now set, and one of them in five fa- 
thom water, the current setting North- East by 
compass. This morning I ordered a post to be 
erected close to our tents, on which I engraved the 
latitude of the place, my own name, the number of 
persons which I had with me, and the time we re- 
mained there. 

Wednesday^ 15. Being awakened by some ca- 
sual circumstance, at four this morning, I was sur- 
prised on perceiving that the water had flowed 
tinder our baggage. As the wind had not changed, 
and did not blow with greater violence than when 
\ve went to rest, we were all of opinion that this 
circumstance proceeded from the tide. We had, 
indeed, observed at the other end of the island, 
that the water rose and fell ; but we then imagined 
that it must have been occasioned by the wind. 
The water continued to rise till about six, but I 
could not ascertain the time with the requisite pre- 
cision, as the wind then began to blow with great 
violence J I therefore determined, at all events, to 



North-west continent of America, gs 

remain here till the next morning, though, as it 
happened, the state of the wind was such, as to 
render my stay here an act of necessity. Our nets 
were not very successful, as they presented us 
with only eight fish. From an observation v/hich 
I obtained at noon we were in 69. 7. North lati- 
tude. As the evening approached, the wind in- 
creased, and the weather became cold. Two swans 
were the only provision v»^hich the hunters procu- 
red for us. 

Thursday^ 16. The rain did not cease till seven 
this morning, the weather being at intervals very- 
cold and unpleasant. Such was its inconstancy, 
that I could not make an accurate observation ; but 
the tide appeared to rise sixteen or eighteen inches. 

We now embarked, and steered under sail among 
the islands, where I hoped to meet with some of 
the natives, but my expectation was not gratified. 
Our guide imagined that they were gone to their 
distant haunts, where they fish for whales and hunt 
the rein-deer, that are opposite to his country. His 
relations, he said, see them every year, but he did 
not encourage us to expect that we should find any 
of them, unless it were at a small river that falls into 
the great one, from the Eastward, at a considerable 
distance from our immediate situation. We ac- 
cordingly made for the river, and stemmed the cur- 
rent. At two in the afternoon the water was quite 
shallow in every part of our course, and we could 
always find the bottom with the paddle. At seven 
we landed, encamped, and set the nets. Here the 
Indians killed two geese, two cranes, and a white 
owl. Since we entered the river, we experienced a 
very agreeable change in the temperature of the 
air; but this pleasant circumstance was not without 
its inconvenience, as it subjected us to the persecu- 
tion of the musquitoes. 

Friday^ 17. On taking up the nets, they were 
found to contain but six fish. We embarked at 



64 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THIIOUGH THE 

four in the morning, and passed four encamp- 
ments, which appeared to have been very lately in- 
habited. We then landed upon a small round 
island, close to the Eastern shore, which possess- 
ed somewhat of a sacred character, as the top of it 
seemed to be a place of sepulture, from the nume- 
rous graves which we observed there. We found 
the frame of a small canoe, with various dishes, 
troughs, and other utensils, which had been the 
living property of those who could now use them 
no more, and form the ordinary accompaniments 
of their last abodes. As no part of the skins that 
must have covered the canoe was remaining, we 
concluded that it had been eaten by wild animals 
that inhabit, or occasionally frequent, the island. 
The frame of the canoe, which was entire, was put 
together with whalebone ; it was sewed in some 
parts, and tied in others. The sledges were from 
four to eight feet long ; the length of the bars was 
upwards of two feet ; the runners were two inches 
thick and nine inches deep ; the prow was two feet 
and an half high, and formed of two pieces, sewed 
with whalebone, to three other thin spars of wood, 
which were of the same height, and fixed in the 
runners by means of mortises, were sewed two thin 
broad bars lengthways, at a small distance from 
each other ; these frames were fixed together with 
three or four cross bars, tied fast upon the runners, 
and on the lower edge of the latter, small pieces 
of horn were fastened by wooden pegs, that they 
might slide with greater facility. They are drawn 
by shafts, which I imagine are applied to any par- 
ticular sledge as they are wanted, as I saw no more 
than one pair of them. 

About half past one we came opposite to the first 
spruce -tree that we had seen for some time : there 
are but very few of them on the main land, and 
they are very small: those, are larger which arfc 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 65 

found on the islands, where they grow in patches, 
and close together. It is, indeed, very extraor- 
dinary that there should be any w^ood whatever in 
a country where the ground never thaws above five 
inches from the surface. We landed at seven in 
the evening. The weather w^as now^ very pleasant, 
and in the course of the day we saw great numbers 
of wild fowl, with their young ones, but they 
were so shy that we could not approach them. 
The Indians were not very successful in their 
foraging party, as they killed only two grey cranes, 
and a grey goose. Two of them were employed 
on the high land to the Eastw^ard, through the 
greater part of the day, in search of rein-deer, but 
they could discover nothing more than a few tracks 
of that animal. I also ascended the high land, 
from whence I had a delightful view of the river, 
divided into innumerable streams, meandering 
through islands, some of which were covered 
with wood, and others with grass. The moun- 
tains, that formed the opposite horizon, were at 
the distance of forty miles. The inland view was 
neither so extensive nor agreeable, being termina- 
ted by a near range of bleak, barren hills, between 
which are small lakes or ponds, while the surround- 
ing country is covered w^ith tufts of moss, without 
the shade of a single tree. Along the hills is a 
kind offence, made with branches, where the na- 
tives had set snares to catch white partridges. 

Saturday^ 18. The nets did not produce a single 
fish, and at three o'clock in the morning we took 
our departure. The weather was fine and clear, and 
we passed several encampments. As the prints of 
human feet were very fresh in the sand, it could 
not have been long since the natives had visited the 
spot. We now proceeded in the hope of meeting 
with some of them at the river, v/hither our guide 
was conducting us with that expectation. We 



66 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

observed a great number of trees, in diiFercnt 
places, whose branches had been lopped ofF to the 
tops. They denote the immediate abode of the 
natives, and probably serve for signals to direct 
each other to their respective winter-quarters. 
Our hunters, in the course of the day, killed two 
rein-deer, which were the only large animals that 
we had seen since we had been in this river, and 
proved a very seasonable supply, as our Pemmican 
had become mouldy for some time past; though 
in that situation we were under the necessity of 
eating it. 

In the vallies and low lands near the river, cran- 
berries are found in great abundance, particularly 
in favourable aspects. It is a singular circum- 
stance, that the fruit of two succeeding years may 
be gathered at the same time, from the same shrub. 
Here was also another berry, of a very pale yel- 
low colour, that resembles a raspberry, and is of a 
very agreeable fiavour. There is a great variety 
of other plants and herbs, whose names and pro- 
perties are unknown to me. 

The weather became cold towards the afternoon, 
with the appearance of rain, and we landed for 
the night at seven in the evening. The Indians 
killed eight geese. During the greater part of the 
day I walked with the English chief, and found it very 
disagreeable and fatiguing. Though the country 
is so elevated, it was one continual morass, except 
on the summits of some barren hills. As I car- 
ried my hanger in my hand, I frequently examined 
if any part of the ground was in a state of thaw, 
but could never force the blade into it, beyond the 
depth of six or eight inches. The face of the high 
land, towards the river, is in some places rocky, 
and in others a mixture of sand and stone, veined 
with a kind of red earth, with which the natives 
bedaub themselves. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 67 

Sunday^ 19. It rained, and blew hard from the 
North, till eight in the morning, when we disco- 
vered that our conductor had escaped. I was, in- 
deed, surprised at his honesty, as he left the moose- 
skin which I had given him for a covering, and 
went off in his shirt, though the weather was very 
cold. I inquired of the Indians if they had given 
him any cause of offence, or had observed any re- 
cent disposition in him to desert us, but they as- 
sured me that they had not in any instance displea- 
sed him : at the same time they recollected that 
he had expressed his apprehensions of being taken- 
away as a slave ; and his alarms were probably 
increased on the preceding day, when he saw them 
kill the two rein-deer with so much readiness. In 
the afternoon the weather became fine and clear, 
when we saw large flights of geese with their young 
ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of them. 
As they had at this time cast their feathers, they 
could not fly. They were of a small kind, and 
much inferior in size to those that frequent the 
vicinity of Athabasca. At eight, we took our sta- 
tion near an Indian encampment, and, as we had 
observed in similar situations, pieces of bone, rein- 
deer's horn, &c. were scattered about it. It also 
appeared, that the natives had been employed here 
in working wood into arms, utensils, &c. 

Monday^ 20. We embarked at three this morn- 
ing, when the weather was cloudy, with small rain 
and aft wind. About twelve the rain became so 
violent as to compel us to encamp at two in the af- 
ternoon. We saw great numbers of fowl, and 
killed among us fifteen geese and four swans. Had 
the weather been more favorable, we should have 
added considerably to our booty. We now passed 
the river, where we expected to meet some of the 
natives, but discovered no signs of them. The 
ground close to the river does not rise to any con- 

Dd 



6S JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

siderable height, and the hills, which are at a small 
distance, are covered with the spruce fir and small 
birch trees, to their very summits. 

Tuesday, 21. We embarked at half past one this 
morning, when the weather was cold and unplea- 
sant, and the wind South-West. At ten, we left 
the channels formed by the islands for the uninter- 
rupted channel of the river, where we found the 
current so strong, that it was absolutely necessary 
to tow the canoe with a line. The land on both 
sides was elevated, and almost perpendicular, and 
the shore beneath it, which is of no great breadth, 
was covered with a grey stone that falls from the 
precipice. We made much greater expedition 
■with the line, than we could have done with the 
paddles. The men in the canoe relieved two of 
those on shore every two hours, so that it was very 
hard and fatiguing duty, but it saved a great deal of 
that time which was so precious to us. At half past 
eight we landed at the same spot where we had al- 
ready encamped on the ninth instant. 

In about an hour after our arrival, we were joined 
by eleven of the natives, who where stationed far- 
ther up the river, and there were some among them 
whom we had not seen during our former visit to 
this place. The brother of our late guide, howe- 
ver, was of the party, and was eager in his inqui- 
ries after him ; but our account did not prove sa- 
tisfactory. They all gave evident tokens of their 
suspicion, and each of them made a distinct ha- 
rangue on the occasion. Our Indians, indeed, did 
not understand their eloquence, though they con- 
jectured it to be very unfavourable to our assertions. 
The brother, nevertheless, proposed to barter his 
credulity for a small quantity of beads, and pro- 
mised to believe every thing I should say, if I 
would gratify him with a few of those baubles ; but 
he did not succeed in his proposition, and I content- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 6i> 

cd myself with giving him the bow and arrows 
which our conductor had left with us. 

My people were now necessarily engaged in 
putting the fire-arms in order, after the violent rain 
of the preceding day; an employment which very- 
much attracted the curiosity, and appeared in some 
degree, to awaken the apprehensions of the natives. 
To their inquiries concerning the motives of our 
preparation, we answered by shewing a piece of 
meat and a goose, and informing them, that we 
were preparing our arms to procure similar provi- 
sions: at the same time we assured them, though 
it was our intention to kill any animals we might 
find, there was no intention to hurt or injure them. 
They, however, entreated us not to discharge our 
pieces in their presence. I requested the English 
chief to ask them some questions, which they ei- 
ther did not or would not understand ; so that I 
failed in obtaining any information from them. 

All my people went to rest; but I thought it 
prudent to sit up, in order to watch the motions of 
the natives. This circumstance was a subject of 
their inquiry ; and their curiosity was still more 
excited, when they saw me employed in writing. 
About twelve o'clock I perceived four of their wo- 
men coming along the shore ; and they were no 
sooner seen by their friends, than they ran hastily 
to meet them, and persuaded two of them, who, I 
suppose, were young, to return, while they brought 
the other two who were very old, to enjoy the 
warmth of our fire; but, after staying there for 
about half an hour, they also retreated. Those who 
remained, immediately kindled a small fire, and 
laid themselves down to sleep round it, like so many 
whelps, having neither skins orgarments of any kind 
to cover them, notwithstanding the cold that prevail- 
ed. My people having placed their kettle of meat on 
the fire, I was obhged to guard it from the natives, 



'TO JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH TH^ 

who made several attempts to possess themselves 
of its contents; and this was the only instance I had 
hitherto discovered, of their being influenced by a 
pilfering disposition. It might, perhaps, be a gene- 
ral opinion, that provisions were a common pro- 
perty. I now saw the sun set for the first time 
since I had been here before. During the pre- 
ceding night, the weather was so cloudy, that I 
could not observe its descent to the horizon. The 
water had sunk, at this place, upward of three feet 
since we had passed down the river. 

Wednesday^ 22. We began our march at half 
past three this morning, the men being employed 
to tow the canoe. I walked with the Indians to 
their huts, which were at a greater distance thaai 
I had any reason to expect, for it occupied three 
hours in hard walking to reach them. We passed 
a narrow and deep river in our way, at the mouth 
of which the natives had set their nets. They had 
hid their effects, and sent their young women into 
the woods, as we saw but very few of the former, 
and none of the latter. They had large huts built 
with drift-wood on the declivity of the beach, and 
in the inside the earth was dug away, so as to form 
a level floor. At each end was a stout fork, whereon 
was laid a strong ridge-pole, which formed a sup- 
port to the whole structure, and a covering of 
spruce bark preserved it from the rain. Various 
spars of different heights were fixed within the hut, 
and covered with split fish that hung on them to 
dry; and fires were made in different parts to acce- 
lerate the operation. There were rails also on the 
outside of the building, which were hung around 
with fish, but in a fresher state than those within. 
The spawn is also carefully preserved and dried in 
the same manner. We obtained as many fish from 
them as the canoe could conveniently contain, and 
some strings of beads were the price paid for them, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 71 

an article which they preferred to every other. 
Iron they held in little or no estimation. 

During the two hours that I remained here, I 
employed the English chief in a continual state of 
inquiry concerning these people. The information 
that resulted from this conference was as follows. 

This nation or tribe is very numerous, with 
whom the Esquimaux had been continually at vari- 
ance, a people who take every advantage of attack- 
ing those who are not in a state to defend them- 
selves; and though they had promised friendship, 
had lately, and in the most treacherous manner, 
butchered some of their people. As a proof of this 
circumstance, the relations of the deceased shewed 
us, that they had cut oW their hair on the occasion. 
They also declared their determination to withdraw 
all confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and 
to collect themselves in a formidable body, that 
they might be enabled to revenge the death of their 
friends. 

From their account, a strong party of Esqui- 
maux occasionally ascends this river, in large ca- 
noes, in search of flint stones, which they employ 
to point their spears and arrows. They were now 
at their lake due East from the spot where we then 
were, which was at no great distance over land, 
where they kill the rein -deer, and that they would 
soon begin to catch big fish for the winter stock. 
We could not, however, obtain any information 
respecting the lake in the direction in which we 
were. To the Eastward and Westward where 
they saw it, the ice breaks up, but soon freezes 
again. 

The Esquimaux informed them that they saw 
large canoes full of white men to the Westward, 
eight or ten winters ago, from whom they obtained 
iron in exchange for leather. The lake where they 
met these canoes, is called by ihemBcl/joiiI/ay Toe, 



72 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

or White Man's Lake. They also represented 
the Esquimaux as dressing like themselves. They 
wear their hair short, and have two holes perforated, 
one on each side of the mouth, in a line with the 
under lip, in which they place long beads that they 
find in the lake. Their bows are somewhat dif- 
ferent from those used by the natives we had seen, 
and they employ slings from whence they threw 
stones with such dexterity that they prove very 
formidable weapons in the day of battle. 

We also learned in addition from the natives, 
that we should not see any more of their relations, 
as they had ail left the river to go in pursuit of 
rein-deer for their provisions, and that they them- 
selves should engage in a similar expedition in a 
few days. Rein-deer, bears, wolvereens, martens, 
foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only qua- 
drupeds in their country ; and that the latter were 
pnly to be found in the mountains to the West- 
^-ard. 

We proceeded with the line throughout the day, 
except two hours, when we employed the sail. We 
encamped at eight in the evening. From the place 
we quitted this morning, the banks of the river 
are well covered with small wood, spruce, firs, 
birch, and willow. We found it very warm dur- 
ing the whole of our progress. 

Thursday^ 23. At five in the morning we pro- 
ceeded on our voyage, but found it very difficult 
to travel along the beach. We observed several 
places where the natives had stationed themselves 
and set their nets since our passage downwards. 
We passed a small river, and at five o'clock our 
Indians put to shore in order to encamp, but we 
proceeded onwards, which displeased them very 
much, from the fatigue they suffered, and at eight 
we encamped at our position of the 8th instant. 
The day was very fine, and vi^e employed the tow- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, 73 

ing line throughout the course of it. At ten, our 
hunters returned, sullen and cUssatisiied. We had 
not touched any of our provision stores for six 
days, in which time we had consumed two rein- 
deer, four swans, forty-five geese, and a consider- 
able quantity of fish : but it is to be considered, 
that we were ten men, and four women. I have 
always observed, that the north men possessed very 
hearty appetites, but they were very much ex- 
ceeded by those with me, since we entered this 
river. I should really have thought it absolute 
gluttony in my people, if my own appetite had not 
increased in a similar proportion. 



74 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER VL 

Employ the towing line. Description of a place 
%\)here the Indians come to collect flint. Their 
shyness and suspicions. Current lessens. Ap- 
pearance of the country. Abundance of hares. 
Fiolent storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm 
of the Indians, Supply of fish from them, 
Their fabulous accounts. Continue to see 
Indian lodges. Treatment of a disease. Mis- 
understanding 'voith the natii^es. The interpre- 
ter harangues them. Their accounts similar 
to those "we ha'oe already received. Their cu- 
rious conduct. Purchase some beaver skins. 
Shoot one of their dogs. The consequence of 
that act. Apprehensions of the women. Large 
quantities of liquorice, Sw allow"* s nests seen in 
the precipices. Fall in with a party of the 
natives killing geese. Circumstances concern- 
ing them. Hurricane. Variation of the wea- 
ther. Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance 
of several kinds of berries. State of the river 
and its bank, 

July, 1789. 

Friday, 24. AT five we continued our course, 
but, in a very short time, were under the necessity 
of applying to the aid of the line, the stream being 
so strong as to render all our attempts unavailing 
to stem it with the paddles. We passed a small ri- 
ver, on each side of which the natives and Esqui- 
maux collect flint. The bank is an high, steep, and 
soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow 
hues. From the continual dripping of water, 
parts of it frequendy fall and break into small stony 
flakes like slate, but not so hard. Among them arc 
found pieces of Fetrolium, which bears a resem- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 75 

blance to yellow wax, but is more friable. The 
English chief informed me, that rocks of a similar 
kind are scattered about the country, at the back of 
the Slave Lake, where the Chepewyans collect 
copper. 

At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had 
been engaged in towing, re -embarked. At twelve, 
we observed a lodge on the side of the river, and 
its inhabitants running about in great confusion, or 
hurrying to the woods. Three men waited our 
arrival, though they remained at some distance from 
us, with their bows and arrows ready to be employ- 
ed ; or at least, that appeared to be the idea they 
wished to convey to us, by continually snapping 
the strings of the former, and the signs they made 
to forbid our approach. The English chief, whose 
language they, in some degree understood, endea- 
voured to remove their distrust of us; but till I 
went to them with a present of beads, they refused 
to have any communication with us. 

When they first perceived our sail, they took us 
for the Esquimaux Indians, who employ a sail in 
their canoes. They were suspicious of our designs, 
and questioned us with a view to obtain some know- 
ledge of them. On seing us in possession of some 
of the clothes, bows, &c. which must have be- 
longed to some of the Deguthee Denees, or Qua- 
rellers, they imagined that we had killed some of 
them, and were bearing away the fruits of our vie- 
tory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the same 
tribe, though they wxre afraid of acknowledging it. 
From their questions, it was evident that they had 
not received any notice of our being in those parts. 

They vv^ould not acknowledge that they had any 
women with them, though we had seen them run- 
ning to the woods ; but pretended that they had 
been left at a considerable distance from the river, 
with some relations, who were engaged in 

E c 



75 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

killing rein-keer. These people had been here 
but a short time, and their lodge was not yet com- 
pleted ; nor had they any fish in a state of prepara- 
tion for their provision. I gave them a knife and 
some beads for an horn-wedge or chisel, with 
which they split their canoe- wood. One of my 
Indians having broken his paddle, attempted to 
take one of theirs, which was immediately con- 
tested by its owner, and on my interfering to pre- 
vent this act of injustice, he manifested his grati- 
tude to me on the occasion. We lost an hour 
and a half in this conference. 

The English chief was during the whole of the 
time in the woods, where some of the hidden pro- 
perty was discovered, but the women contrived to 
elude the search that was made after them. Some 
of these articles were purloined, but I was ignorant 
of this circumstance till we had taken our depar- 
ture, or I should certainly have given an ample 
remuneration. Our chief expressed his displea- 
sure at their running away to conceal themselves, 
their property, and their young women, in very 
bitter terms. He said his heart was against those 
slaves ; and complained aloud of his disappoint- 
ment in coming so far without seeing the natives, 
and getting something from them. 

We employed the sail and the paddle since ten 
this morning, and pitched our tents at seven in the 
evening. We had no sooner encamped than we 
were visited by an Indian whom we had seen be- 
fore, and whose family was at a small distance up 
the river: at nine he left us. The weather was clear 
and serene. 

Saturday, 25. We em.barked this morning at a 
quarter past three, and at seven we passed the 
lodge of the Indian who had visited us the prece- 
ding evening. There appeared to have been more 
than one family, and we naturally concluded that 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. It 

our visitor had made such an unfavourable report 
of us, as to induce his companions to fiy on our 
approach. Their fire was not extinguished, and 
they had left a considerable quantity of fish scat- 
tered about their dwelling. 

The weather was now very sultry ; but the cur- 
rent had relaxed of its force, so that the paddle was 
suificient for our progress during the greatest part 
of the day. The inland part of the country is 
mountainous and the banks of the river low, but 
covered with wood, among which is the poplar, 
but of small growth, and the first which we had 
seen on our return. A pigeon also flew by us, and 
hares appeared to be in great plenty. We passed 
many Indian encampments which we did not see 
in our passage down the river. About seven the 
sky, to the Westward, became of a steel blue co- 
lour, with lightning and thunder. We accord- 
ingly landed to prepare ourselves against the com- 
ing storm ; but before we could erect our tents, it 
came on with such violence that we expected it to 
carry every thing before it. The ridge pole of 
my t^Tit was broken in the middle, where it was 
sound, and nine inches and an half in circumfer- 
ence ; and we were obliged to throw^ ourselves fiat 
on the ground to escape being wounded by the 
stones that were hurled about in the air like sand. 
The violence of the storm, however, subsided in 
a short time, but left the sky overcast with the ap- 
pearance of rain. 

Sunday^ 26. It rained from the preceding even- 
ing to this morning, when we embarked at four 
o'clock. At eight we landed at three large Indian 
lodges. Their inhabitants, who Vvcre asleep, ex- 
pressed uncommon alarm and agitation when they 
were awakened by us, though most of them had 
seen us before. Their habitations were crouded 
with fish, hanging to dry in every part ; but as we 



78 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

wanted some for present use, we sent their young 
men to visit the nets, and they returned with abun- 
dance of large white fish, to which the name has 
been given of poisso?i inconnu ; some of a round 
shape, and green colour ; and a few white ones ; 
all which were very agreeable food. Some beads, 
and a few other trifles, were gratefully received in 
return. These people are very fond of iron work 
of any kind, and my men purchased several of their 
articles for small pieces of tin. 

There were five or six persons whom we had not 
seen before ; and among them was a Dog-rib Indi- 
an, whom some private quarrel had driven from 
his country. The English chief understood him 
as well as one of his own nation, and gave the fol- 
lowing account of their conversation : — 

He had been informed by the people with whom 
he now lives, the Hare Indians, that there is ano- 
ther river on the other side of the mountains to the 
South- West, which falls into the Belhoullay Toe^ 
or White-man's Lake, in comparison of which 
that on whose banks avc then were, was but a small 
stream ; that the natives were very large, and very 
wicked, and kill common men with their eyes ; 
that they make canoes larger than ours ; that thosfe 
who inhabit the entrance of it kill a kind of beaver, 
the skin of which is almost red ; and that large ca- 
noes often frequent it. As there is no known com- 
munication by water with this river, the natives 
who saw it went over the mountains. 

As he mentioned that there were some beavers 
in this part of the country, I told him to hunt it, 
and desire the others to do the same, as well as thfe 
martens, foxes, beaver-eater or wolvereen, Sec. 
which they might carry to barter for iron with his 
own nation, who are supplied with goods by us, 
near their country. He was anxious to know whe- 
ther we should return that wavj at the same time 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 79 

he informed us, that we should see but few of the 
natives along the river, as all the young men were 
engaged in killing rein-deer, near the Esqui- 
maux Lake, which, he also said, was at no great 
distance. The latter he represented as very trea- 
cherous, and added, that they had killed one of his 
people. He told us likewise, that some plan of 
revenge was meditating, unless the offending party 
paid a sufficient price for the body of the murdered 
person. 

My Indians were very anxious to possess them- 
selves of a woman that was with the natives, but, 
as they were not willing to part w^ith her, I inter- 
fered, to prevent her being taken by force ; indeed 
I was obliged to exercise the utmost vigilance, as 
the Indians who accompanied me \vere ever ready 
to take what they could from the natives, without 
making them any return. About twelve, wt pas- 
sed a river of some appearance, flowing from the 
Eastw^ard. One of the natives who followed us, 
called it the Winter Road River. We did not find 
the stream strong to-day, along the shore, as there 
were many eddy currents ; we therefore employed 
the sail during some hours of it, and went on shore 
for the night at half past seven. 

Mo7iday^ 27. The weather was now fine, and 
we renewed our voyage at half past two. At 
seven we landed where there were three families, 
situated close to the rapids. We found but few 
people ; for as the Indian who followed us yester- 
day had arrived here before us, we supposed that 
the greater part had fled, on the intelligence which 
he gave of our approach. Some of these people 
we had seen before, when they told us that they 
had left their property at a lake in the neighbour- 
hood, and had promised to fetch it before our re- 
turn ; but we now found them as unprovided as 



80 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

when we left them. They had plenty of fish, 
some of which was packed up in birch bark. 

During the time we remained with them, which 
was not more than two hours, I endeavoured to 
obtain some additional intelligence respecting the 
river which had been mentioned on the preceding 
day ; when they declared their total ignorance of 
it, but from the reports of others, as they had 
never been beyond the mountains, on the opposite 
side of their own river ; they had, however, been 
informed that it was larger than that which washed 
the banks whereon they lived, and that its course 
was towards the mid-day sun. They added, that 
there were people at a small distance up the river, 
who inhabited the opposite mountains, and had 
lately descended from them to obtain supplies of 
fish. These people, they suggested, must be well 
acquainted with the other river, which was the ob- 
ject of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a 
bribe of some beads, to describe the circumjacent 
country upon the sand. This singular map he im- 
mediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly 
traced out a very long point of land between the 
rivers, though without paying the least attention to 
their courses, which he represented as running into 
the great lake, at the extremity of which, as he had 
been told by Indians of other nations, there was a 
Belhoullay Couin, or White Man's Fort. This I 
took to be Unalascha Fort, and consequently the 
river to the West to be Cook's River ; and that 
the body of water or sea into which this river dis- 
charges itself at Whale Island, communicates with 
Norton Sound. I made an advantageous proposi- 
tion to this man to accompany me across the 
mountains to the other river, but he refused it. At 
the same time he recommended me to the people 
already mentioned, who were fishing in the neigh- 



north-west continent of AMERICA. 81 

bourhood, as better qualified to assist me in the 
undertaking which I had proposed. 

One of this small company of natives was griev- 
ously afflicted with ulcers in his back, and the only 
attention which was paid to his miserable condi- 
tion, as far at least as we could discover, proceded 
from a woman, who carefully employed a bunch of 
feathers in preventing the flies from settling upon 
his sores. 

At ten this morning w^e landed near the lodges 
which had already been mentioned to us, and I or- 
dered my people to make preparation for passing 
the remaining part of the day here, in order to ob- 
tain that familiarity with the natives which might 
induce them to afford me, without reserve, the in- 
formation that I should require from them. This 
object, however, was in danger of being altogether 
frustrated, by a misunderstanding that had taken 
place between the natives and my young Indians, 
who had already arrived there. Before the latter 
could disembark, the former seized the canoe, and 
dragged it on shore, and in this act of violence the 
boat was broken, from the weight of the persons in 
it. This insult was on the point of being seriously 
revenged, when I arrived, to prevent the conse- 
quences of such a disposition. The variation of 
the compass was about twenty-nine degrees to the 
East. 

At four in the afternoon I ordered my interpreter 
to harangue the natives, assembled in council; but 
his long discourse obtained little satisfactory intel- 
ligence from them. Their account of the river to 
the Westward, v/as similar to that which he had al- 
ready received : and their description of the inha- 
bitants of that country was still more absurd and 
ridiculous. They represented them as being of a 
gigantic stature, and adorned with wings; which 
however, they never employed in flying. That 



82 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

they fed on large birds, which they killed with the 
greatest ease, though common men would be cer* 
tain victims of their ferocity if they ventured to 
approach them. They also described the people 
that inhabited the mouth of the river as possessing 
the extraordinary power of killing with their eyes, 
and devouring a large beaver at a single meal. 
They added that canoes of very large dimensions 
visited that place. They did not, however, relate 
these strange circumstances from their own know- 
ledge, but on the reports of other tribes, as they 
themselves never ventured to proceed beyond the 
first mountains, where they went in search of the 
small white buffaloes, as the inhabitants of the other 
side endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. 
They likewise mentioned that the sources of those 
streams which are tributary to both the great rivers 
are separated by the mountains. It appeared to 
us, however, that these people knew more about 
the country than they chose to communicate, or 
at least reached me, as the interpreter, who had 
long been tired of the voyage, might conceal such 
a part of their communications as, in his opinion, 
would induce me to follow new routes, or extend 
my excursions. 

No sooner was the conference concluded, than 
they began to dance, which is their favourite, and, 
except jumping, their only amusement. In this 
pastime old and young, male and female, continued 
their exertions, till their strength w^as exhausted. 
This exercise was accompanied by loud imitations 
of the various noises produced by the rein-deer, 
•the bear, and the wolf. 

When they had finished their antics, I desired 
the English chief to renew the former subjects; 
"which he did without success. I therefore assumed 
an angry air, expressed my suspicions that they 
withheld their information, and concluded with a 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 83 

menace, that if they did not give me all the satis- 
faction in their power, I would force one of them 
along with me to-morrow, to point out the other 
river. On this declaration, they all, at one and 
the same moment, became sick, and answered in 
a very faint tone, that they knew no more than they 
had already communicated, and that they should 
die if I took any of them away. They began to 
persuade my interpreter to remain with them, as 
they loved him as well as they did themselves, and 
that he would be killed if he continued with me. 
Nor did this proposition, aided as it was by the 
solicitation of his women, fail of producing a con- 
siderable effect upon him, though he endeavoured 
to conceal it from me. 

I now found that it would be fruidess for me 
to expect any accounts of the country, or the other 
great river, till I got to the river of the Bear Lake, 
where I expected to find some of the natives, who 
promised to wait for us there. These people had 
actually mentioned this river to me when we passed 
them, but I then paid no attention to that circum- 
stance, as I imagined it to be either a misunder- 
standing of my interpreter, or that it was an inven- 
tion which, with their other lies, might tend to 
prevent me from proceeding down their river. 

We were plentifully supplied with fish, as well 
dry as fresh, by these people; they also gathered 
as many hurtle berries as we chose, for which w^e 
paid with the usual articles of beads, awls, knives, 
and tin. I purchased a few beaver-skins of them, 
which, according to their accounts, are not very 
numerous in this country; and that they do not 
abound in moose-deer and buffaloes. They were 
alarmed for some of their young men, who were 
killing geese higher up the river, and entreated U3 
to do them no harm. About sun- set I was under 
the necessity of shooting one of their dogs, as wc 

V f 



»4 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

could not keep those animals from our baggage. 
It was in vain that I had remonstrated on this sub- 
ject, so that I was obliged to commit the act which 
has been just mentioned. When these people heard 
the report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, they 
were seized with a very general alarm, and the wo- 
men took their children on their backs and ran into 
the woods. I ordered the cause of this act of se- 
verity to be explained, with the assurance that no 
injury would be offered to themselves. The wo- 
man, however, to whom the dog belonged, was 
very much aifected, and declared that the loss of 
five children, during the preceding winter, had not 
affected her so much as the death of this animal. 
But her grief was not of very long duration ; and 
a few beads, &c. soon assuaged her sorrow. But 
as they can without difficulty get rid of their afflic- 
tion, they can with equal ease assume it, and feign 
sickness if it be necessary with the same versati- 
lity. When we arrived this morning, we found 
the women in tears, from an apprehension that wc 
were come to take them away. To the eye of an 
European they certainly were objects of disgust ; 
but there were those among my party who observed 
some hidden charms in these females which ren- 
dered them objects of desire, and means were found, 
I believe, that very soon dissipated their alarms 
and subdued their coyness. 

On the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew 
in great abundance and it was now in blossom. I 
pulled up some of the roots, which were large and 
long; but the natives were ignorant of its qualities, 
and considered it as a weed of no use or value. 

Tuesday^ 28. At four this morning I ordered 
my people to prepare for our departure ; and while 
they were loading the canoe, I went with the En- 
glish chief to visit the lodges, but the greater part 
of their inhabitants had quitted them during the^ 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 85 

Tiight, and those that remained pretended sickness, 
and refused to rise. When, however, they were 
convinced that we did not mean to take any of them 
with us, their sickness abandoned them, and when 
we had embarked, they came forth from their huts, 
to desire that we would visit their nets, which 
were at a small distance up the river, and take all 
the fish we might find in them. We accordingly 
availed ourselves of this permission, and took as 
many as were necessary for our own supply. 

We landed shortly after where there were two 
more lodges, which were full of fish, but without 
any inhabitants, who were probably with the natives 
whom we had just left. My Indians, in rummaging 
these places, found several articles which they pro- 
posed to take ; I therefore gave beads and awls, 
to be left as the purchase of them ; but this act of 
justice they were not able to comprehend, as the 
people themselves v/ere not present. I took up a 
net and left a large knife in the place of it. It was 
about four fathoms long, and thirty-two meshes in 
depth ; these nets are much more convenient to set 
in the eddy current than our long ones. This is 
the place that the Indians call a rapid, though we 
went up it all the way with the paddle; so that the 
current could not be so strong here, as in many 
other parts of the river ; indeed, if it were so, the 
difficulty of towing would be almost insuperable, 
as in many parts, the rocks, which are of a great 
height, and rather project over the water, leave no 
shore between them and the stream. These pre- 
cipices abound in swallows' nests. The weather 
was now very sultry, and at eleven we were under 
the necessity of landing to gum our canoe. 

In about an hour we set forward, and at one in 
the afternoon, went on shore at a fire, which we 
supposed to have been kindled by the young men, 
who, as we had been already informed, were hunt- 



86 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ing geese. Our hunters found their canoe and 
the fowl they had got, secreted in the woods ; and 
soon after, the people themselves, whom they 
brought to the water side. Out of two hundred 
geese, w^e picked thirty- six which were eatable ; 
the rest were putrid, and emitted a horrid stench. 
They hadbeen killed some time withouthaving been 
gutted, and in this state of loathsome rottenness, 
we have every reason to suppose they are eaten by 
the natives. We paid for those which w^e had taken, 
and departed. At seven in the evening, the wea- 
ther became cloudy and overcast ; at eight w^e en- 
camped ; at nine it began to thunder with great 
violence ; a heavy rain succeeded, accompanied 
with a hurricane, that blew dow^n our tents, and 
threatened to carry away the canoe, which had been 
fastened to some trees with a cod-line. The storm 
lasted two hours, and deluged us with wet. 

Wednesday, 29, Yesterday the weather was 
cloudy, and the heat insupportable; and now we 
could not put on clothes enough to keep us warm. 
We embarked at a quarter past four with an aft 
wind, which drove us on at a great rate, though 
the current is very strong. At ten we came to the 
other rapid which we got up with the line on the 
West side, where Vv^e found it much stronger than 
when we went down ; the water had also fallen at 
least five feet since that time, so that several shoals 
appeared in the river which we had not seen be- 
fore. One of my hunters narrowly escaped being 
drowned in crossing a river that falls in from the 
Westward, and is the most considerable, except 
the mountain river, that flows in this direction. 
We had strong Northerl}^ and cold wind throughout 
the whole of the day, and took our station for the 
night at a quarter past eight. We killed a goose 
and caught some young ones. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. S7 

Thursday^ 50. We renewed our voyage at four 
this morning, after a very rainy night. The wea- 
ther was cloudy, but the cold had moderated, and 
the wind was North- West. We were enabled to 
employ the sail during part of the day, and en- 
camped at about seven in the evening. We killed 
eleven old geese and forty young ones which had 
just begun to fly. The English chief was very 
much irritated against one of his young men : that 
jealousy occasoned this uneasiness, and that it was 
not without very sufficient cause, w^as all I could 
discover. For the last two or three days we had 
eaten the liquorice root, of which there is great a- 
bundance on the banks of the river. We found it 
a powerful astringent. 

Friday^ 31. The rain w^as continual throughout 
the night, and did not subside till nine this morn- 
ing when we renew^ed our progress. The wind 
and weather the same as yesterday. About three in 
the afternoon it cleared up and the wind died away, 
when it became warm. At five the wind veered 
to the East, and brought cold along with it. There 
were plenty of hurtle berries, raspberries, and a berry 
called Po'ire^ which grows in the greatest abun- 
dance. We were very much impeded in our way 
by shoals of sand and small stones, which render 
the water shallow at a distance from the shore. 
In other places the bank of the river is lofty: it is 
formed of black earth and sand, and, as it is conti- 
nually falling, displayed to us, in some parts, a face 
of solid ice, to within a foot of the surface. We 
finished this day's voyage at a quarter before eight, 
and in the course of it killed seven geese. 

We now had recourse to our corn, for w^e had 
only consumed three days of our original provi- 
sion since we began to mount the current. It was 
my intention to have ascended the river on the 
South side from the last rapid, to discover if there 



88 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

were any rivers of consequence that flow from the 
Westward ; but the sand- banks were so numerous 
and the current so strong, that I was compelled to 
traverse to the opposite side, Vv^here the ecldy cur- 
rents are very frequent, which gave us an oppor- 
tunity of setting our nets and making much more 
head-wav. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 89 



CHAPTER VII. 

Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the 
interpreter. Stars liisible. Springs of mineral 
ivater., and lumps of iron ore, Jrrive at the 
river of the Bear Lake. Coal ?ni?2e i?i a state 
of combustion. Water of the river diminished, 
Co7itinue to see Indian encampments^ and kill 
geese, ^c. Hunting excursions. A canoe found 
on the edge of a n.vood. Attempt to ascend a 
mountain. Account of the passage to it. See a 
fe%v of the natives. Kill a beaver and some 
hares. Design of the English chief. Kill a 
voolf. Changeable state of the voeather. Re^ 
cover the Pemmican, which had been hidden i?i 
an island. Natives fy at our approoch. Meet 
with dogs. Altercation with the E?igHsh chief. 
Account of the articles left by the fugitives. 
Shoals of the river covered with saline matter. 
Encamp at the mouth of the river of the moun- 
tain. The ground on fire on each side of it. 
Continue to see encampments of the natives. 
Various kiiids of berries. Kill geese, swans^ 
^c, ^c. ^c. Corroding quality of the water. 
Weather changeable. Reach the entrance of 
the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on en- 
tering it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le 
Roux on the lake. Further circumstances till 
our return to Fort Chepewyan, Conclusion of 
the voyage. 

August, 1789. 

Saturday, 1. WE embarked at tliree this 
morning, the weather being clear and cold, with 
the wind at South-East. At three in the afternoon 
we traversed and landed to take the canoe in tow : 
here was an encampment of the natives, which we 



90 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGlH THE 

had reason to suppose they had quitted the preced- 
ing day. At five we perceived a family, consist- 
ing of a man, two women, and as many children, 
stationed by the side of the water, whom we had 
not seen before. They informed us, that they had 
but few fish, and that none of their friends were in 
the neighbourhood, except the inhabitants of one 
lodge on the other side of the river, and a man who 
belonged to them, and who was now occupied in 
hunting. I now found my interpreter very unwil- 
hng to ask such questions as were dictated to him, 
from the apprehension, as I imagined, that I might 
obtain such intelligence as would prevent him from 
seeing Athabasca this season. We left him with 
the Indian, and pitched our tents at the same place 
where we had passed the night on the fifth of last 
month. The English chief came along with the 
Indian to our fire; and the latter informed us that 
the native who went down part of the river with us 
had passed there, and that we should meet with 
three lods:es of his tribe above the river of the Bear 
Lake. Of the river to the Westward he knew no- 
thing but from the relation of others. This was 
the first night since our departure from Athabas- 
ca, when it was sufficiently dark to render the stars 
visible. 

Sunday^ 2. We set off at three this morning with 
the towing-line. I walked with my Indians, as they 
went faster than the canoe, and particularly as I sus- 
pected that they wanted to arrive at the huts of the 
natives before me. In our way, I observed seve- 
ral small springs of mineral v/ater running from the 
foot of the mountain, and along the beach I saw se- 
veral lumps of iron ore. When we came to the 
river of the Bear Lake, I ordered one of the young 
Indians to wait for my canoe, and I took my place 
in their small canoe. This river is about two hun- 
dred and fifty yards broad at this place, the water 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 91 

clear and of a greenish colour. When I landed on 
the opposite shore, I discovered that the natives 
had been there very lately from the print of their 
feet in the sand. We continued walking till five 
in the afternoon, vi^hen we saw several smokes 
along the shore. As we naturally concluded, that 
these were certain indications where we should 
meet the natives who were the objects of our search 
we quickened our pace ; but, in our progress, ex- 
perienced a very sulphurous smell, and at length 
discovered that the whole bank was on fire for a 
very considerable distance. It proved to be a coal 
mine, to which the fire had communicated from 
an old Indian encampment. The beach was co- 
vered with coals, and the English chief gathered 
some of the softest he could find, as a black dye ; 
it being the mineral, as he informed me, with which 
the natives render their quills black. 

Here we waited for the large canoe, which arri- 
ved an hour after us. At half past ten we saw se- 
veral Indian marks, which consisted of pieces of 
bark fixed on poles, and pointing to the woods, 
opposite to which is an old beaten road, that bore 
the marks of being lately frequented ; the beach 
also was covered with tracks. At a small distance 
were the poles of five lodges standing ; where we 
landed and unloaded our canoe. I then dispatched 
one of my men and two young Indians to see if 
they could find any natives within a day's march of 
us. I wanted the English chief to go, but he 
pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no use. 
This was the first time he had refused to comply 
with my desire, and jealousy, I believe, was the 
cause of it in the present instance ; though I had 
taken every precaution that he should not have 
cause to be jealous of the Canadians. There was 
not, at this time, the least appearance of snow on 
the opposite mountains, though they were almost 

G g 



92 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THH 

covered with it, when we passed before. Set two 
nets, and at eleven o'clock at night the men ^nd In- 
dians returned. They had been to their first en- 
campinent, where there w^ere four fires, and which 
had been quitted a short time before j so that they 
were obliged to make the circuit of several small 
lakes, which the natives cross with their canoes. 
This encampment was on the borders of a lake 
which was too large for them to venture round it, 
so that they did not proceed any further. They 
saw several beavers and beaver lodges in those 
small lakes. They killed one of these animals 
whose fur began to get long, a sure indication that 
the fall of the year approaches. They also saw 
many old tracks of the moose and rein-deer. This 
is the time when the rein-deer leave the plains to 
come to tl^ woods, as the musquitoes begin to dis- 
appear; I, therefore, apprehended that we should 
not find a single Indian on the river side, as they 
would be in or about the mountains setting snares 
to take them. 

Monday^ 3. We proceeded with a strong Wes- 
terly wind, at four this morning, the weather being 
cloudy and cold. At twelve it cleared up and be- 
came fine; the current also increased. The water 
had fallen so much since our passage down the 
river, that here, as in other places, we discovered 
many shoals which were not then visible. We 
killed several geese of a larger size than those which 
we had generally seen. Several Indian encamp- 
ments were seen along the river, and we landed at 
eight for the night. 

Tuesday^ 4. At four in the morning we re- 
newed our course, when it was fine and calm. The 
night had been cold and a very heavy d^w had fallen. 
At nine we were obliged to land in order to 
gum the canoe, when the w^eather became ex- 
tremely warm. Numerous tracks of rein-deer 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 93 

appeared on the side of the river. At half past 
five we took our station for the night, and set the 
nets. The current was very strong all day, and 
wt found it very difficult to vi^alk along the beach, 
from the large stones which were scattered over it. 

IVednesday, 5. We raised our nets but had 
not the good fortune to take a single fish. The 
water was now become so low that the eddy cur- 
rents would not admit of setting them. The cur- 
rent had not relaxed its strength ; and the difficulty 
of walking along the beach was continued. The 
air was now become so cold, that our exercise, 
violent as it was, scarce kept us warm. We pas- 
sed several points which we should not have ac- 
complished, if the canoe had been loaded. We 
were v^ry much fatigued, and at six were glad to 
conclude our toilsome march. The Indians killed 
two geese. The women who did not quit the ca- 
noe, were continually employed in making shoes 
of moose- skin, for the men, as a pair did not last 
more than a day. 

Thursday, 6, The rain prevented us from pro- 
ceeding till half past six, when we had a strong 
aft wind, which, aided by the paddles, drove us on 
at a great rate. We encamped at six to wait for 
our Indians, whom we had not seen since the mor- 
ning ; and at half past seven they arrived very much 
dissatisfied with their day's journey. Two days 
had now elapsed, since we had seen the least ap- 
pearance of Indian habitations. 

Friday, 7. We embarked at half past three, and 
soon after perceived two rein- deer on the beach 
before us. We accordingly checked our course ; 
but our Indians, in contending who should be the 
first to p-et near these animals, alarmed and lost 
them. We, however, killed a female rein-deer, 
and from the wounds in her hind-legs, it was sup- 
posed that she had been pursued by wolves, who 



94 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

had devoured her young one: her udder was full of 
milk, and one of the young Indians poured it among 
some boiled corn, which he ate with great delight, 
esteeming it a very delicious food. At five in the 
afternoon we saw an animal running along the 
beach, but could not determine whether it was 
a grey fox or a dog. In a short time, we went 
ashore for the night, at"the entrance of a small river, 
as I thought there might be some natives in the 
vicinity of the place. I ordered my hunters to put 
their fuzees in order, and gave them ammunition to 
proceed on a hunting party the next day ; they 
were also instructed to discover if there were any 
natives in the neighbouring mountains. I found a 
small canoe at the edge of the woods, which con- 
tained a paddle and a bow : it had been repaired 
this spring, and the workmanship of the bark ex- 
celled any that I had yet seen. We saw several 
encampments in the course of the day. The cur- 
rent of the river was very strong, and along the 
points equal to rapids. 

Saturday^ 8. The rain was very violent through- 
put the night, and continued till the afternoon of 
this day, when the weather began to clear, with a 
strong, cold, and Westerly wind. At three the In- 
dians proceeded on the hunting expedition, and at 
eight they returned without having met with the 
least success ; though they saw numerous tracks 
of the rein-deer. They came to an old beaten road, 
which one of them followed for some time ; but it 
did not appear to have been lately frequented. The 
rain now returned, and continued till the morning. 

Sunday^ 9. We renewed our voyage at half past 
three, the weather being cold and cloudy ; but at 
ten it became clear and moderate. We saw ano- 
ther canoe at the outside of the wood, and one of 
the Indians .killed a dog, which was in a meagre, 
emaciated condition. We perceived various places 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 55 

where the natives had made their fires ; for these 
people reside but a short time near the river, and 
remove from one bank to the other, as it suits their 
purposes. We saw a path which was connected 
with another on the opposite side of the river. The 
water had risen considerably since last night, and 
there had been a strong current throughout the 
day. At seven we made to the shore and en- 
camped, 

Monday^ 10. At three this morning we returned 
to our canoe ; the weather fine and clear, with a 
light wind from the South- East. The Indians 
were before us in pursuit of game. At ten we 
landed opposite to the mountains which we had 
passed on the second of the last month, in order 
to ascertain the variation of the compass at this 
place : but this was accomplished in a very imper- 
fect manner, as I could not depend on my watch. 
One of the hunters joined us here, fatigued and 
unsuccessful. As these mountains are the last of 
any considerable magnitude on the South- West 
side of the river, I ordered my men to cross to 
that side of it, that I might ascend one of them. It 
was near four in the afternoon when I landed, and 
I lost no time in proceeding to the attainment of 
my object. I was accompanied only by a young 
Indian, as the curiosity of my people was sub- 
dued by the fatigue they had undergone ; and we 
soon had reason to believe that we should pay 
dearly for the indulgence of our own. The wood, 
which was chiefly of spruce firs, was so thick that 
it w^as with great difficulty we made our w^ay 
through it. When we had walked upwards of an 
hour, the under- wood decreased, while the white 
birch and poplar were the largest and tallest of their 
kind that I had ever seen. The ground now began 
to rise, and was covered wdth small pines, and at 
length we got the first view of the mountains since 



96 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

we had left the canoe ; as they appeared to be no 
nearer to us, though we had been walking for three 
hours, than when we had seen them from the river, 
my companion expressed a very great anxiety to 
return ; his shoes and leggins were torn to pieces, 
and he was alarmed at the idea of passing through 
such bad roads during the night. I persisted, 
however, in proceeding, with a determination to 
pass the night on the mountains and return on the 
morrow. As we approached them, the ground 
was quite marshy, and we waded in water and 
grass up to the knees, till we came within a mile 
of them, when I suddenly sunk up to my arm-pits, 
and it was with some difficulty that I extricated 
myself from this disagreeable situation. I now 
found it impossible to proceed ; to cross this 
marshy ground in a straight line v/as impracticable, 
and it extended so far to the right and left, that I 
could not attempt to make the circuit ; I therefore 
determined to return to the canoe, and arrived there 
about midnight, very much fatigued with this 
fruitless journey. 

Tuesday^ 11. We observed several tracks along 
the beach, and an encampment at the edge of the 
woods, which appeared to be five or six days old. 
We should have continued our route along this side 
of the river, but we had not seen our hunters since 
yesterday morning. We accordingly embarked be- 
fore three, and at five traversed the river, when we 
saw two of them coming down in search of us. 
They had killed no other animals than one beaver, 
and a few hares. According to their account, the 
woods were so thick that it was impossible to fol- 
low the game through them. They had seen seve- 
ral of the natives' encampments, at no great distance 
from the river; and it was their opinion that they 
had discovered us in our passage down it, and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 97 

had taken care to avoid us; which accounted for 
the small number we had seen on our return. 

I requested the English chief to return with me 
to the other side of the river, in order that he 
might proceed to discover the natives, whose 
tracks and habitations we had seen there ; but he 
was backward in complying with my desire, and 
proposed to send the young men ; but I could not 
trust to them, and at the same time was become 
rather doubtful of him. They were still afraid 
lest I should obtain such accounts of the other 
river as would induce me to travel overland to it, 
and that they should be called upon to accompany 
me. I was, indeed, informed by one of my own 
people, that the English chief, his wives and com- 
panions, had determined to leave me on this side 
of the Slave Lake, in order to goto the country of 
the Beaver Indians, and that about the middle of 
the winter he would return to that lake, where he 
had appointed to meet some of his relations, who, 
during, the last spring, had been engaged in war. 

We now traversed the river, and continued to 
track the Indians till past twelve, when we lost all 
traces of them ; inconsequence, as we imagined, 
of their having crossed to the Eastern side. We 
saw several dogs on both shores ; and one of the 
young Indians killed a wolf, which the men ate 
with great satisfaction : we shot, also, fifteen 
young geese that were now beginning to fly. It 
w^as eight when we took our evening station, hav- 
ing lost four hours in making our traverses. 
There was no interruption of the fine weather dur- 
ing the course of this day. 

Wednesday^ 12. We proceeded on our voyage at 
three this morning, and dispatched the two young 
Indians across the river, that we might not miss any 
of the natives that should be on the banks of it. 
We saw many places where fireshad beenlately made 



98 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

along the beach, as well as iire running in the 
woods. At four we arrived at an encampment 
which had been left this morning. Their tracks 
were observable in several places in the woods, 
and as it might be presumed that they could not 
be at any great distance, it was proposed to the 
chief to accompany me in search of them. We 
accordingly, though with some hesitation on his 
part, penetrated several miles into the woods, but 
without discovering the objects of our research. 
The fire had spread all over the country, and had 
burned about three inches of the black, light soil, 
which covered a body of cold clay, that was so 
hard as not to receive the least impression of our 
feet. At ten we returned from our unsuccessful 
excursion. In the mean time the hunters had 
killed seven geese. There were several showers 
of rain, accompanied with gusts of wind and 
thunder. The nets had been set during our ab- 
sence. 

Thursday^ 13. The nets were taken up, but 
not one fish was found in them ; and at half past 
three we continued our route, with very favourable 
weather. We passed several places, where fires 
had been made by the natives, and many tracks 
were perceptible along the beach. At seven we 
were opposite the island where our Pemmican had 
been concealed: two of the Indians were accord- 
ingly dispatched in search of it, and it proved very 
acceptable, as it rendered us more independent of 
the provisions which were to be obtained by our 
fowling pieces, and qualified us to get out of the 
river without that delay which our hunters would 
otherwise have required. In a short time we per- 
ceived a smoke on the shore to the South- West, 
at the distance of three leagues, which did not ap- 
pear to proceed from any running fire. The In- 
dians, who were a little way ahead of us, did not 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 99 

discover it, being engaged in the pursuit of a flock 
of geese, at which they fired several shots, when 
the smoke immediately disappeared; and in a short 
time we saw several of the natives run along the 
shore, some of whom entered their canoes. 
Though we were almost opposite to them, we 
could not cross the river without going further up 
it, from the strength of the current; I therefore 
ordered our Indians to make every possible exer- 
tion, in order to speak with them, and wait our ar- 
rival. But as soon as our small canoe struck oif, 
v/e could perceive the poor affrighted people hasten 
to the shore, and after drawing their canoes on the 
beach, hurry into the Vvoods. It was past ten be- 
fore we landed at the place where they had deserted 
their canoes, which were four in number. They 
were so terrified that they had left several articles 
on the beach. I was very much displeased with 
my Indians, who instead of seeking the natives, 
were dividing their property. I rebuked the En- 
glish chief with some severity for his conduct, and 
immediately ordered him, his young men, and my 
own people, to go in search of the fugitives, but 
their fears had made them too nimble for us, and 
we could not overtake them. We saw several 
dogs in the woods, and some of them followed us 
to our canoe. 

The English chief was very much displeased at 
my reproaches, and expressed himself to me in 
person to that effect. This was the very opportu- 
nity which I wanted, to make him acquainted with 
my dissatisfaction for some time past. I stated to 
him that I had come a great way, and at a very con- 
siderable expence, w^ithout having completed the 
object of my v. ishes, and that I suspected he had 
concealed from me a principal part of what the na- 
tives had told him respecting the country, lest he 
should be obliged to follow me : that his reason for 

H h 



100 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

not killing game, &c. was his jealousy, which like- 
wise prevented him from looking after the natives 
as he ought ; and that w e had never given him any 
cause for any suspicions of us. These suggestions 
irritated him in a very high degree, and he accused 
me of speaking ill words to him; he denied the 
charge of jealousy, and declared that he did not 
conceal any thing from us; and that as to the ill 
success of their hunting, it arose from the nature 
of the country, and the scarcity, which had hitherto 
appeared, of animals in it. He concluded by in- 
forming me that he vvould not accompany me any 
further; that though he was without ammunition, 
he could live in the same manner as the slaves, 
(the name given to the inhabitants of that part of 
the country), and that he would remain among 
diem. His harangue was succeeded by a loud and 
bitter lamentation; and his relations assisted the 
vociferations of his grief; though they said that 
their tears flowed for their dead friends. I did not 
interrupt their grief for two hours, but as I could 
not well do without them, I was at length obliged 
to sooth it, and induce the chief to change his re- 
solution, which he did, but with great apparent 
reluctance; when we embarked as we had hitherto 
done. 

The articles which the fugitives had left behind 
them, on the present occasion, were bows, arrows, 
snares for moose and rein-deer, and for hares; to 
these may be added a few dishes, made of bark, 
some skins of the marten and the beaver, and old 
beaver robes, with a small robe made of the skin 
of the lynx. Their canoes were coarsely made of 
the bark of the spruce -fir, and will carry two or 
three people. I ordered my men to remove them 
to the shade, and gave most of the other articles to 
the young Indians. The English chief would not 
accept of any of them. In the place, and as the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 10 1 

purchase of them, I left some cloth, some small 
knives, a file, two fire-steels, a comb, rings, with 
beads and awls. I also ordered a marten skin to 
be placed on a proper mould, and a beaver skin to 
be stretched on a frame, to which I tied a scraper. 
The Indians were of opinion that all these articles 
would be lost, as the natives were so much fright- 
ened that they would never return. Here we lost 
six hours ; and on our quitting the place, three of 
the dogs which I have already mentioned followed 
us along the beach. 

We pitched our tents at half past eight, at the 
entrance of the river of the mountain ; and while 
the people were unloading the canoe, I took a walk 
along the beach, and on the shoals, which being 
uncovered since we passed down,^ by the sinking 
of the waters, were now white with a saline sub- 
stance. I sent for the English chief to sup with 
me, and a dram or two dispelled all his heart-burn- 
ing and discontent. He informed me that it was 
a custom with the Chepewyan chiefs to go to war 
after they had shed tears, in order to wipe away the 
disgrace attached to such a feminine weakness, and 
that in the ensuing spring he should not fail to exe- 
cute his design ; at the same time he declared his 
intention to continue with us as long as I should 
want him. I took care that he should carry some 
liquid consolation to his lodge, to prevent the re- 
turn of his chagrin. The weather was fine, and 
the Indians killed three geese. 

Friday, 14. At a quarter before four this morn- 
ing, we returned to our canoe, and went about two 
miles up the river of the mountains. Fire was in 
the ground on each side of it. In traversing, I 
took soundings, and found ^\\c, four and an 
half, and three and an half fathoms water. Its 
stream was very muddy, and formed a cloudy streak 
along the water of the great river, on the West 



103 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

side to the Eastern rapid, where the waters of the 
two rivers at length blend in one. It v/as impos- 
sible not to consider it as an extraordinary circum- 
stance, that the current of the former river should 
not incorporate with that of the latter, but How, as 
it were, in distinct streams at so great a distance, 
and till the contracted state of the channel unites 
them. We passed several encampments of the 
natives, and a river which fiowed in from the 
North, that had the appearance of being navigable. 
We concluded our voyage of this day at half past 
five in the afternoon. There were plenty of ber- 
ries, which my people called poires ; they are of a 
purple hue, somewhat bigger than a pea, and of a 
luscious taste; there were also gooseberries, and a 
few strawberries. 

Saturday^ 15. We continued our course from 
three in the morning till half past five in the after- 
noon. We saw several encampments along the 
beach, till it became too narrow to admit them; 
when the banks rose into a considerable degree of 
elevation, and there were more eddy currents. 
The Indians killed twelve geese, and berries were 
collected in great abundance. The w^eather was 
sultry throughout the day. 

Sunday y 16. We continued our voyage at a 
quarter before four, and in five hours passed the 
place where we had been stationed on the 13th of 
June. Here the river widened, and its shores be- 
came flat. The land on the North side is low, com- 
posed of a black soil, mixed with stones, but agree- 
ably covered with the aspen, the poplar, the white 
birch, the spruce-fir, &c. The current was so 
moderate, that we proceeded upon it almost as 
fast as in dead water. At twelve we passed an en- 
campment of three fires, which was the only one 
we saw in the course of the day. The weather 
was the same as yesterday. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, 103 

Monday^ 17. We proceeded at half past three ; 
and saw three successive encampments. From the 
peculiar structure of the huts, we imagined that 
some of the Red- Knife Indians had been in this 
part of the country, though it is not usual for them 
to come this way. I had last night ordered the 
young Indians to precede us, for the purpose of 
hunting, and at ten we overtook them. They had 
killed five young swans ; and the English chief 
presented us with an eagle, three cranes, a small 
beaver, and two geese. We encamped at seven 
this evening on the same spot which had been our 
resting-place on the 29th of June. 

Tuesday^ 18. At four this morning I equipped 
all the Indians for an hunting excursion, and sent 
them onward, as our stock of provision was nearly 
exhausted. We followed at half past six, and cross- 
ed over to the north shore, where the land is low 
and scarcely visible in the horizon. It was near 
twelve when we arrived. I now got an observa- 
tion, when it was 61. 33. North latitude. We were 
near five miles to the North of the main channel of 
the river. The fresh tracks and beds of bufl^aloes 
were very perceptible. Near this place a river flow- 
ed in from the Horn Mountains, which are at no 
great distance. We landed at five in the afternoon, 
and before the canoe was unloaded, the English 
chief arrived with the tongue of a cow, or female 
buffalo, when four men and the Indians were dis- 
patched for the flesh ; but they did not return till 
it was dark. They informed me, that they had seen 
several human tracks in the sand on the opposite 
island. The fine weather continued without inter- 
ruption. 

Wednesday y 19. The Indians were again sent 
forward in pursuit of game ; and some time being 
employed in gumming the canoe, we did not em- 
bark till half past five, and at nine we landed to wait 



104 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the return of the hunters. I here found the varia- 
tion of the compass to be about twenty degrees 
East. 

The people made themselves paddles and repair- 
ed the canoe. It is an extraordinary circumstance 
for w hich I do not pretend to account, that there is 
some peculiar quality in the water of this river, 
Avhich corrodes wood, from the destructive effect 
it liad on the paddles. The hunters arrived at a 
late hour, without having seen any large animals. 
Their booty consisted only of three swans and as 
many geese. The women were employed in gather- 
ing cranberries and crow berries, which were found 
in o^reat abundance. 

Thursday^ 20. We embarked at four o'clock, 
paid, took the North side of the channel, though the 
current was on that side much stronger, in order to 
take a view of the river, which had been mentioned 
to me in our passage downwards, as flowing from 
the country of the Beaver Indians, and which fell 
in hereabouts. We could not, however, discover 
if, and it is probable that the account was referable 
to the river which we had passed on Tuesday. The 
current was very strong, and wc crossed over to an 
island opposite to us ; here it w^as still more impe- 
tuous, and assumed the hurry of a rapid. We found 
an avv'l and a paddle on the side of the water ; the 
former we knew to belong to the Knisteneaux : I 
supposed it to be the chief Merde-d'our's and his 
party, who went to war last spring, and had taken 
this route on their returnto Athabasca. Nor is it im- 
probable that they may have been the cause that we 
saw so few of the natives on the banks of this river. 
The weather was raw and cloudy, and formed a 
very unpleasant contrast to the warm, sunny days, 
which immediately preceded it. We took up our 
abode for the night at half past seven, on the Nor- 
thern shore, where the adjacent country is both low 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 105 

and flat. The Indians killed five young swans, 
and a beaver. There v/as an appearance of rain. 

Friday y 21, The weather was cold, with a 
strong Easterly wind and frequent showers, so that 
we were detained in our station. In the afternoon 
the Indians got on the track of a moose-deer, but 
were not so fortunate as to overtake it. 

Saturday^ 22. The wind veered round to the 
Westv/ard, and continued to blow strong and cold. 
We, however, renewed our voyage, and in three 
hours reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, un- 
der half sail ; with the paddle, it would have taken 
us at least eight hours. The Indians did not ar- 
rive till four hours after us ; but the wind was so 
violent, that it was not expedient to venture into 
the lake ; we therefore set a net, and encamped for 
the night. The women gathered large quantities 
of the fruit already mentioned, called Pathagome- 
nan, and cranberries, crovvberries, mooseberries, 
&c. The Indians killed two swans and three 
geese. 

Sunday^ 23* The net produced but five small 
pike, and at five we embarked, and entered the 
lake by the same channel through which we had 
passed from it. The South- West side would have 
been the shortest, but we were not certain of there 
being plenty of fish along the coast, and we were 
sure of finding abundance of them in the course we 
prefeiTed. Besides, I expected to find my people 
at the place where I left them, as they had received 
orders to remain there till the fall. 

We paddled a long way into a deep bay to get 
the wind, and having left our mast behind us, we 
landed to cut another. We then hoisted sail, and 
were driven on at a great rate. At tvveive the 
wind and swell were augmented to such a degree, 
that our under yard broke, but luckily the mast 
thwart resisted, till v/e had time to fasten down the 



106 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

yard with a pole, without lowering sail. We took 
ill a large quantity of water, and had our mast 
given way, in all probability, we should have filled 
and sunk. Our course continued to be very dan- 
gerous, along a flat lee- shore, without being able 
to land till three in the afternoon. Two men were 
continuallyemployed in bailing out the water which 
w^e took in on all sides. We fortunately doubled 
a point that screened us from the wind and swell, 
and encamped for the night, in order to wait for 
our Indians. We then set our nets, made a yard 
and mast, and gummed the canoe. On visiting 
the nets, we found six white fish, and two pike. 
The women gathered cranberries and crowberries 
in great plenty ; and as the night came on, the 
weather became more moderate. 

Monday, 24. Our nets this morning produced 
fourteen white fish, ten pikes, and a couple of 
trouts. At five we embarked with a light breeze 
from the South, when we hoisted sail, and pro- 
ceeded slowly, as our Indians had not come up 
with us. At eleven we went on shore to prepare 
the kettle, and dry the nets ; at one we were again 
on the water. At four in the afternoon, we per- 
ceived a large canoe with a sail, and two small 
ones a-head; we soon came up with them, when 
they proved to be M. Le Roux and an Indian, with 
his family, Vvho were on a hunting party, and had 
l)een out twenty-five days. It was his intention to 
have gone as far as the river, to leave a letter for 
me, to inform me of his situation. He had seen 
no more Indians where I had left him; but had 
made a voyage to Lac la Marte, where he met 
eighteen small canoes of the Slave Indians, from 
whom he obtained five packs of skins, which were 
principally those of the marten. There were four 
Beaver Indians among them, ^\ ho had bartered the 
greatest part of the above mentioned articles witli 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 107 

them, before his arrival. They informed him 
that their relations had more skins, but that they 
were afraid to venture with them, though they 
had been informed that people were to come with 
goods to barter for them. He gave these people a 
pair of ice chisels each, and other articles, and 
sent them away to conduct their friends to the 
Slave Lake, where he was to remain during the 
succeeding winter. 

We set three nets, and in a short time caught 
twenty fish of different kinds. In the dusk of the 
evening, the English chief arrived with a most 
pitiful account that he had like to have been drown- 
ed in trying to follow us; and that the other men 
had also a very narrow^ escape. Their canoe, he 
said, had broken on the swell, at some distance 
from the shore, but as it was flat, they had with 
his assistance been able to save themselves. He 
added, that he left them lamenting, lest they 
should not overtake me, if I did not wait for them; 
he also expressed his apprehensions that they 
would not be able to repair their canoe. This 
evening I gave my men some rum to cheer them 
after their fatigues. 

Tuesday^ 25. We rose this morning at a late 
hour, when we visited the nets, which produced 
but few fish: my people, indeed, partook of the 
stores of M. Le Roux. At eleven, the young 
Indians arrived, and reproached me for having left 
them so far behind. They had killed two swans, 
and brought me one of them. The wind was 
Southerly throughout the day, and too strong for 
us to depart, as we were at the foot of a grand tra- 
verse. At noon I had an observation, which gave 
61. 29. North latitude. Such was the state of the 
weather, that we could not visit our nets. In the 
afternoon, the sky darkened, and there was light- 
ning, accompanied with loud claps of thunder. 

I i 



108 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

The wind also veered round to the Westward, and 
blew a hurricane. 

V/e (hies day ^ 26. It rained throughout the night, 
and till eight in the morning, without any altera- 
tion in the wind. The Indians went on a hunting 
excursion, but returned altogether without success 
in ihe evening. One of them was so unfortunate 
as to miss a moose-deer. In the afternoon there 
Vv'ere heavy showers, with thunder, &:c. 

Thursday^ 27. We embarked before four, and 
hoisted sail. At nine we landed to dress victuals, 
and wait for M. Le Roux and the Indians. At 
eleven, we proceeded with line and calm weather. 
At four in the afternoon, a light breeze sprang up 
to the Southward, to which we spread our sail, and 
at half past five in the afternoon, went on shore 
for the night. We then set our nets. The Eng- 
lish chief and his people being quite exhausted 
with fatigue, he this morning expressed his desire 
to remain behind, in order to proceed to the coun- 
try of the Beaver Indians, engaging at the same 
time, that he would return to Athabasca in the 
course of the winter. 

Friday^ 28. It blew very hard throughout the 
night, and this morning, so that we found it a busi- 
ness of some difficulty to get to our nets ; our trou- 
ble, however, was repaid by a considerable quan- 
tity of ^vhite fish, trout, Sec. Towards the after- 
noon the w^ind increased. Two of the men who 
had been gathering berries saw two moose-deer, 
with the tracks of buffaloes and rein-deer. About 
sun-set we heard two shots, and saw a fire on the 
opposite side of the bay^ we accordingly made a 
large fire also, that our position might be determin- 
ed. When we were all gone to bed, we heard the 
report of a gun very near us, and in a very short 
time the English chief presented himself drenched 
with wet, and in much apparent confusion in» 



1<0RTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, im 

formed me that the canoe with his companions was 
broken to pieces; and that they had lost their fowl- 
ing pieces, and die flesh of a rein-deer, which they 
had killed this morning. They were, he said, at 
a very short distance from us; and at the same time 
requested that fire might be sent to them, as they 
were starving with cold. They and his women, 
however, soon joined us, and were immediately 
accommodated with dry clothes. 

Saturday^ 29. I sent the Indians on an hunt- 
ing party, but they returned without success; and 
they expressed their determination not to follow 
me any further, from their apprehension of being 
drowned. 

Sunday 30. We embarked at one this morning, 
and took from the nets a large trout, and twenty 
white fish. At sun-rise a smart aft breeze sprang 
up, which wafted us to M. Le Roux's house by 
two in the afternoon. It was late before he and 
our Indians arrived ; when, according to a promise 
which I had made the latter, I gave them a plen- 
tiful equipment of iron ware, ammunition, tobacco, 
Sec. as a recompence for the toil and inconvenience 
they had sustained with me. 

I proposed to the English chief to proceed to 
the country of the Beaver Indians, and bring them 
to dispose of their peltries to M. Le Roux, whom 
I intended to leave there the ensuing winter. He 
had already engaged to be at Athabasca, in the 
month of March next, with plenty of furs. 

Mofiday, 31. I sat up all night to mak^the ne- 
cessary arrangements for the embarkation of this 
morning, and to prepare instructions for M. Le 
Roux. We obtained some provisions here, and 
parted from him at five, with fine calm weather. 
It soon, however, became necessary to land on a 
small island, to stop the leakage of the canoe, which 
had been occasioned bv the shot of an arrow under 



1 10 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the water mark, by some Indian children. While this 
business was proceeding, we took the opportunity 
of dressing some fish. At t\ielve, the wind sprang 
up from the South-East, which was in the teeth of 
our direction, so that our progress was greatly im- 
peded. I had an observation, which gave 62. 15. 
North latitude. We landed at seven in the even- 
ing, and pitched our tents. 

Tuesday^ 1. We continued our voyage at five 
in the morning, the weather calm and fine, and 
passed the Isle a la Cache about twelve, but could 
not perceive the land, v;hich was seen in our for- 
mer passage. On passing the Carreboeuf Islands, 
at fi^^e in the afternoon, Vv^e saw land to the South by 
West, which we thought was the opposite side of 
the lake, stretching away to a great distance. We 
landed at half past six in the evening, when there 
was thunder, and an appearance of change in the 
weather. 

Wednesday^ 2. It rained and blew hard the lat- 
ter part of the night. At half past five the rain sub- 
sided, when we made a traverse of twelve miles, 
and took in a good deal of water. At twelve it 
became calm, when I had an observation, which 
gave 61. 56. North latitude. At three in the after- 
noon, there was a slight breeze from the Westward 
which soon increased, when we hoisted sail, and 
took a traverse of twenty-four miles, for the point 
of the old Fort, where we arrived at seven, and 
stopped for the night. This traverse shortened 
our way three leagues ; indeed we did not expect 
to have cleared the lake in such a short time. 

Thursday^ 3. It blew v»dth great violence 
throughout the night, and at four in the morning, 
we embarked, when we did not make more than 
five miles in three hours, without stopping ; not- 
withstanding we were sheltered from the svicll by 
a long bank. We now entered the small river, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 1 1 1 

where the wind could have no effect upon us. 
There were frequent showers in the course of the 
day, and we encamped at six in the evening. 

Friday^ 4. The morning was dark and cloudy, 
nevertheless we embarked at five ; but at ten it 
cleared up. We saw a few fowl, and at seven in 
the evening, went on shore for the night. 

Saturday^ 5. The weather continued to be 
cloudy. At five we proceeded, and at eight it be- 
gan to rain very hard. In about half an hour we 
put to shore, and were detained for the remaining 
part of the day. 

Sunday^ 6. It rained throughout the night, 
with a strong North wind. Numerous flocks of 
wild fowl passed to the Southward ; at six in the 
afternoon, the rain, in some measure, subsided, 
and we embarked, but it soon returned with re- 
newed violence ; we, nevertheless took the advan- 
tage of an aft wind, though it cost us a complete 
drenching. The hunters killed seven geese, and 
we pitched our tents at half past six in the even- 
ing. 

Monday^ 7. We were on the water at five this 
morning, with a head wind, accompanied by suc- 
cessive showers. At three in the afternoon, we 
ran the canoe on a stump, and it filled with water 
before she could be got to land. Two hours were 
employed in repairing her, and at seven in the 
evening, we took our station for the night. 

Tuesday^ 8. We renewed our voyage at half past 
four in a thick mist which lasted till nine, when it 
cleared away, and fine weather succeeded. At 
three in the afternoon we came to the first carry- 
ing-place, Portage des Noyes, and encamped at 
the upper end of it to dry our clothes, some of 
which \v ere almost rotten. 

Wednesday^ 9. We embarked at five in the 
morning, and our canoe was damaged on the mens* 
shoulders, who were bearing it over the carrying- 



1 12 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH TUt 

place, called Portage du Cbetique, The guide 
repaired her, however, while the other men were 
employed in carrying the baggage. The canoe was 
gummed at the carrying-place named the Portage 
cle la Montague. After having passed the carry- 
ing-places, we encamped at the Dog River, at half 
past four in the afternoon, in a state of great fatigue. 
The canoe was again gummed, and paddles were 
made to replace those that had been broken in as- 
cending the rapids. A swan was the only animal 
we'killed throughout the day. 

Thursday^ 10. There was rain and violent wind 
during the night : in the morning the former sub- 
sided and the later increased. At half past five 
we continued our course with a North- Westerly 
wind. At seven we hoisted sail: in the forenoon 
there were frequent showers of rain and hail, and 
in the afternoon two showers of snow : the wind 
w^as at this time very strong, and at six in the 
evening we landed at a lodge of Knisteneaux, con- 
sisting of three men and five women and children. 
They' were on their return from war, and one of 
them was very sick : they separated from the rest 
of their party in the enemy's country, from absolute 
hunger. After this separation, they met with a 
family gf the hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. 
They were entirely ignorant of the fate of their 
friends, but imagined that they had returned to the 
Peace River, or had perished for want of food. I 
gave medicine to the sick-*, and a small portion of 

* This man had conceived an idea, that the people with whom he 
had been at war, had thrown medicine at him, which had caused his pre- 
sent complaint, and chat he despaired of recovery. The natives are so 
^itperslitious, that this idea alone was sufficient to kill him. Of this weak- 
ness I took advantage ; and assured him, that if he would never more go 
to war with such poor defenceless people, I would cure him. To this 
proposition he readily consented, and on my giving him medicine, which 
consisted of Turlington's balsam, mixed in water, I declared that it 
would lose its efect, if he was not sincere in the promise that he 
tnade me. In short, he actually recovered, was true to his engagements,. 
,and on all occasions manifested his gratitude to me. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 1 1 3 

ammunition to the healthy; which, indeed, they 
very much wanted, as they had entirely lived for 
the last six months on the produce of their bows and 
arrows. They appeared to have been great suffer- 
ers by their expedition. 

Friday^ 11. It froze hard during the night, 
and was very cold throughout the day, with an 
appearance of snow. We embarked at half past 
four in the morning, and continued our course till 
six in the evening, when we landed for the night at 
our encampment of the third of June. 

Saturday^ 12. The weather was cloudy, and 
also very cold. At eight, we embarked with a 
North-East v/ind, and entered the Lake of the 
Hills. About ten, the Vv^ind veered to the West- 
ward, and Was as strong as we could bear it with 
the high sail, so that we arrived at Chepewyan 
fort by three o'clock in the afternoon, where we 
found Mr. Macleod, with five men busily employ- 
ed in building a new house. Here, then, we con- 
cluded this voyage, which had occupied the con- 
siderable space of one hundred and two days. 



\ 



JOURNAL 

OF 

A SECOND VOYAGE, he, 



CHAPTER I. 

Leaiie Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace 
R'roer. State of the Lakes. Arrive at Peace 
Point. The reason assigned for its name. 
The weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. De- 
scription of the country. Land at the Fort^ 
called The Old Establishment. The principal 
building destroyed by fire. Course of the 
ri'uer. Arrive at another fort. Some account 
of the natives. Depart from thence. Course 
of the river continued. It divides into tV)o 
branches. Proceed along the principal one. 
Land at the place of our wi?iter^s residence. 
Account of its circumstances and inhabitants^ 
^c. Preparations for erecting a fort ^ ^c, ^c. 
Table of the weather. Broke the thermometer. 
Frost sets in. Description of birds, 

October 10, 1792. 

HAVING made every necessary preparation, 
I left Fort Chepewyan, to proceed up the Peace 
River. I had resolved to go as far as our most 
distant settlement, which would occupy the re- 
maining part of the season, it being the route by 
which I proposed to attempt my next discovery, 
across the mountains from the source of that river; 
for whatever distance I could reach this fall, would 
be a proportionate advancement of my voyage. 

In consequence of this design, I left the esta- 
blishment of Fort Chepewyan, in charge of Mr. Ro- 

Kk 



116 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

deric Mackenzie, accompanied by two canoes lad- 
en with the necessary articles for trade : we accor- 
dingly steered West for one of the branches that 
communicates with the Peace River, called the 
Pine River ; at the entrance of which we waited for 
the other canoes, in order to take some supplies 
from them, as I had reason to apprehend they would 
not be able to keep up with us. We entered the 
Peace River at seven in the morning of the 12th, 
taking a Westerly course. It is evident, that all 
the land between it and the Lake of the Hills, 
as far as the Elk River, is formed by the quantity 
of earth and mud, which is carried down by the 
streams of those two great rivers. In this space 
there are several lakes. The lake Clear Water, 
which is the deepest. Lake Vassieu, and the Atha- 
basca Lake, which is the largest of the three, and 
whose denomination in the Knisteneaux language, 
implies, aflat, low, swampy country, subject to in- 
undations. The two last lakes are now so shallow, 
that from the cause just mentioned, there is every 
reason to expect, that in a few years they will have 
exchanged their character, and become extensive 
forests. 

This country is so level, that, at some seasons, 
It is entirely overflowed, which accounts for the 
periodical influx and reflux of the waters between 
the Lake of the Hills and the Peace River. 

On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace Point; 
from which, according to the report of my inter- 
preter, the river derives its name ; it w^as the spot 
where the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians settled 
their dispute ; the real name of the river and point 
being that of the land which was the object of con- 
tention. 

When this country was formerly invaded by the 
Knisteneaux, they found the Beaver Indians inha- 
,biting the land about Portage la Loche ; and the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 117 

adjoining tribe were those whom they called slaves. 
They drove both these tribes before them ; when 
the latter proceeded down the river from the Lake 
of the Hills, in consequence of which that part of 
it obtained the name of the Slave River. The for^ 
mer proceeded up the river ; and when the Kniste- 
neaux made peace with them, this place was set- 
tled to be the boundary. 

We continued our voyage, and I did not find 
the current so strong in this river as I had been in- 
duced to believe, though this, perhaps, was not 
the period to form a correct notion of that circum- 
stance, as well as of the breadth, the water being 
very low ; so that the stream has not appeared to 
me to be in any part that I have seen, more than a 
quarter of a mile wide. 

The weather was cold and raw, so as to render 
our progress unpleasant ; at the same time we did 
not relax in our expedition, and, at three on the 
afternoon of the 17th we arrived at the falls. The 
river at this place is about four hundred yards 
broad, and the fall about twenty feet high : the 
first carrying place is eight hundred paces in length, 
and the last, which is about a mile onwards, is 
something more than two thirds of that distance. 
Here we found several fires, from which circum- 
stance we concluded, that the canoes destined for 
this quarter, which left the fort some days before 
us, could not be far a-head. The weather continu- 
ed to be very cold, and the snow that fell during 
the night was several inches deep. 

On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we got 
out of the draught of the fall, the wind being at 
North-East, and strong in our favour, we hoisted 
sail, which carried us on at a considerable rate a- 
gainst the current, and passed the Loon River be- 
fore twelve o'clock ; from thence we soon came 
along the Grande Isle^ at the upper end of which 



118 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

we encamped for the night. It now froze very 
hard : indeed, it had so much the appearance of 
winter, that I began to entertain some alarm lest 
we might be stopped by the ice : we therefore set 
off at three o'clock in the morning of the 19th, and 
about eight we landed at the Old Establishment. 

The passage to this place from Athabasca having 
been surveyed by M. Vandrieul, formerly in the 
Company's service, I did not think it necessary to 
give any particular attention to it ; I shall, howe- 
ver, just observe, that the course in general from 
the Lake of the Hills to the falls, is Westerly, and 
as much to the North as the South of it, from 
thence it is about West- South- West to this fort. 

The country in general is low from our entrance 
of the river to the falls, and with the exception of 
a few open parts covered with grass, it is clothed 
with wood. Where the banks are very low the soil 
is good, being composed of the sediment of the 
river and putrefied leaves and vegetables. Where 
they are more elevated, they display a face of yel- 
lowish clay, mixed with small stones. On a line 
with the falls, and on either side of the river, there 
are said to be very extensive plains, which aiford 
pasture to numerous herds of buffaloes. Our peo- 
ple a-head slept here last night, and, from their 
carelessness, the fire was communicated to and 
burned dowTi, the large house, and was proceeding 
fast to the smaller buildings when we arrived to ex- 
tinguish it. 

We continued our voyage, the course of the ri- 
ver being South- West by West one mile and a 
quarter, South by East one mile. South- West by 
South three miles, West by South one mile, South 
South- West two miles. South four miles, South- 
West seven miles and a half. South by West one 
mile, North-North- West two miles and a half, 
South five miles and a quarter, South- West one 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 119 

mile and a half, North- East by East three miles 
and a half, and South- East by East one mile. 

We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, who 
was encamped near the fort of which he was going 
to take the charge, during the ensuing v/inter, and 
made every necessary preparative for a becoming 
appearance on our arrival the following morning. 
Although I had been since the year 1787, in the 
Athabasca country, I had never yet seen a single 
native of that part of it which we had now reached. 

At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we 
landed before the house amidst the rejoicing and 
firing of the people, who were animated with the 
prospect of again indulging themselves in the lux- 
ury of rum, of which they had been deprived since 
the beginning of May ; as it is a practice through- 
out the North-West, neither to sell or give any 
rum to the natives during the summer. There 
was at this time only one chief with his people, 
the other two being hourly expected with their 
bands; and on the 21st and 22d they all arrived 
except the war chief and fifteen men. As they 
very soon expressed their desire of the expected 
regale, I called them together, to the number of 
forty-two hunters, or men capable of bearing arms, 
to ofier some advice, which would be equally ad- 
vantageous to them and to us, and I strengthened 
my admonition w^ith a nine gallon cask of reduced 
rum, and a quantity of tobacco. At the same time 
I observed, that as I should not often visit them, 
I had instanced a greater degree of liberality than 
they had been accustomed to. 

The number of people belonging to this esta- 
blishment amounts to about three hundred, of 
which, sixty are hunters. Ahhough they appear 
from their language to be of the same stock as the 
Chepewyans, they difier from them in appearance, 
manners, and customs, as they have adopted those 



120 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

of their former enemies, the Knisteneaux ; they 
speak their language, as well as cut their hair, 
paint, and dress like them, and possess their im- 
moderate fondness for liquor and tobacco. This 
description, however, can be applied only to the 
men, as the w^omen are less adorned even than 
those of the Chepewyan tribes. We could not 
observe, without some degree of surprize, the con- 
trast between the neat and decent appearance of 
the men, and the nastiness of the women. I am 
disposed, however, to think, that this circumstance 
is generally owing to the extreme submission and 
abasement of the latter: for I observed, that one 
of the chiefs allowed two of his wives more liberty 
and familiarity than were accorded to the others, 
as well as a more becoming exterior, and their 
appearance was proportionably pleasing ; I shall, 
however, take a future opportunity to speak more 
at large on this subject. 

There were frequent changes of the weather in 
the course of the day, and it froze rather hard in 
the night. The thickness of the ice in the morn- 
ing was a sufficient notice for me to proceed. I 
accordingly gave the natives such good counsel as 
might influence their behaviour, communicated 
my directions to Mr. Findlay for his future con- 
duct, and took my leave under several vollies of 
musketry, on the morning of the 23d. I had alifea- 
dy dispatched my loaded canoes two days before, 
with directions to continue their progress without 
waiting for me. Our course was South- South- 
East one mile and an half. South three quarters; 
East seven miles and a half, veering gradually to 
the West four miles and an half. South-East by 
South three miles, South-East three miles and an 
half. East- South- East to Long Point three miles, 
South- West one mile and a quarter. East by 
North four miles and three quarters, West three 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 121 

miles and an half, West- South- West one mile, 
East by South five miles and a half, South three 
miles and three quarters, South- East by South 
three miles, East- South- East three miles, East- 
North-East one mile, when there was a river that 
flowed in on the right, East two miles and an half, 
East-South-East half a mile, South-East by South 
seven miles and an half. South two miles, South- 
South- East three miles and an half; in the course 
of which we passed an island South by West, 
where a rivulet flowed in on the right, one mile, 
East one mile and an half. South five miles, 
South-East by South four miles and an half, South- 
West one mile, South-East by East four miles and 
an half, West- South- West half a mile, South- 
West six miles and three quarters, South-East by 
South one mile and an half. South one mile and 
an half; South-East by South two miles, South- 
West three quarters of a mile, South-East by 
South two miles and an half. East by South one 
mile and three quarters. South two miles, South- 
East one mile and an half. South- South- East half 
a mile, East by South tw^o miles and an half, 
North-East three miles. South- West by West 
short distance to the establishment of last year, 
East-North-East four miles. South- South-East 
one mile and three quarters. South half a mile, 
South-East by South three quarters of a mile, 
North-East by East one mile, South three miles, 
South-South-East one mile and three quarters. 
South by East four miles and an half, South- West 
three miles. South by East two miles. South by 
West one mile and an half. South- West two miles, 
South by West four miles and an half. South- West 
one mile and an half, and South by East three 
miles. Here we arrived at the forks of the river; 
the Eastern branch appearing to be not more than 
half the size of the Western one. We pursued 



122 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the latter, in a course South-West by West six 
miles, and landed on the first of November at the 
place which was designed to be my winter resi- 
dence : indeed, the weather had been so cold and 
disagreeable, that I was more than once apprehen- 
sive of our being stopped by the ice, and, after all, 
it required the utmost exertions of which my men 
were capable to prevent it ; so that on their arrival 
they were quite exhausted. Nor were their la- 
bours at an end, for there was not a single hut to 
receive us : it was, however, now in my power to 
feed and sustain them in a more comfortable man- 
ner. 

We found two men here who had been sent for- 
w^d last spring, for the purpose of squaring tim- 
ber for the erection of a house, and cutting palli- 
sades, &:c. to surround it. With them was the 
principal chief of the place, and about seventy men, 
who had been anxiously waiting for our arrival, 
and received us with every mark of satisfaction 
and regard which they could express. If we might 
judge from the quantity of powder that was wasted 
on our aiTival, they certainly had not been in want 
of ammunition, at least during the summer. 

The banks of the river, from the falls, are in ge- 
neral lofty, except at low woody points, acciden- 
tally formed in the manner I have already mention- 
ed : they also displayed, in all their broken parts, 
a face of clay, intermixed with stone ; in some 
places there likewise appeared a black mould. 

In the summer of 1788, a small spot was cleared 
at the Old Establishment, which is situated on a 
bank thirty feet above the level of the river, and 
was sown with turnips, carrots, and parsnips. The 
first grew to a large size, and the others thrived 
very well. An experiment was also made with 
potatoes and cabbage, the former of which were 
successful ; but for want of care the latter failed. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 123 

The next winter the person who had undertaken 
this cultivation, sufiered the potatoes which had 
been collected for seed, to catch the frost, and none 
had been since brought to this place. There is not 
the least doubt but the soil would be very produc- 
tive, if a proper attention was given to its prepara- 
tion. In the fall of the year 1787, when I first 
arrived at Athabasca, Mr. Pond was setded on the 
banks of the Elk River, where he remained for 
three years, and had formed as fine a kitchen gar- 
den as I ever saw in Canada. 

In addition to the wood which flourished below 
the fall, these banks produce the cypress tree, 
arrow-wood, and the thorn. On either side of the 
river, though invisible from it, are extensive plains, 
which abound in bufililoes, elks, wolves, foxes, 
and bears. At a considerable distance to the West- 
w^ard, is an immense ridge of high land or moun- 
tains, which take an oblique direction from below 
the falls, and are inhabited by great numbers of 
deer, which are seldom disturbed, but when the 
Indians go to hunt the beaver in those parts ; and, 
being tired with the flesh of the latter, vary their 
food with that of the former. This ridge bears the 
name of the Deer Mountain. Opposite to our 
present situation, are beautiful meadows, with va- 
rious animals grazing on them, and groves of pop- 
lars irregularly scattered over them. 

My tent was no sooner pitched, than I sum- 
moned the Indians together, and gave each of 
them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram 
of spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been 
very troublesome to my predecessor, I informed 
them that I had heard of their misconduct, and was 
come among them to inquire into the truth of it. 
I added also that it would be an established rule 
with me to treat them with kindness, if their beha- 
viour should be such as to deserve it j but, at the 

L 1 



124 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

same time, that I should be equally severe if they 
failed in those returns which I had a right to ex* 
pect from them. I then presented them with a 
quantity of rum, which I recommended to be used 
with discretion ; and added some tobacco, as a 
token of peace. They, in return, made me the 
fairest promises ; and having expressed the pride 
they felt on beholding me in their country, took 
their leave. 

I now proceeded to examine my situation ; and 
it was with great satisfaction 1 observed that the 
two men who had been sent hither some time be- 
fore us, to cut and square timber for our future 
operations, had employed the intervening period 
with activity and skill. They had formed a suffi- 
cient quantity of pallisades of eighteen feet long, 
and seven inches in diameter, to inclose a square 
spot of an hundred and twenty feet; they had also 
dug a ditch of three feet deep to receive them ; and 
had prepared ti mber, planks, &c. for the erection 
of a house. 

I was, however, so much occupied in settling 
matters with the Indians, and equipping them for 
their winter hunting, that I could not give my at- 
tention to any other object, till the 7th, when I set 
all hands at work to construct the fort, build the 
house, and form store houses. On the preceding 
day the river began to run with ice, which w^e call 
the last of the navigation. On the 11th we had a 
South- West wdnd, with snow. On the 16th, the 
ice stopped in the other fork, which was not above 
a league from us, across the intervening neck of 
land. The water in this branch continued to flow 
till the 22d, when it was arrested also by the frost, 
so that we had a passage across the river, which 
would last to the latter end of the succeeding April. 
This was a fortunate circumstance, as we depended 
for our support upon what the himters could pro- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 125 

vide for us, and they had been prevented by the 
running of the ice from crossing the river. They 
now, however, very shortly procured us as much 
fresh meat as we required, though it was for some 
time a toilsome business to my people, for as there 
was not yet a sufficient quantity of snow to run 
sledges, they were under the necessity of loading 
themselves with the spoils of the chase. 

On the 27th the frost was so severe that the 
axes of the workmen became almost as brittle as 
glass. The weather was very various until the 2d 
of December, when my Farenheit's thermometer 
was injured by an accident, w^hich rendered it alto- 
gether useless. The following table, therefore, 
from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate 
circumstance, is the only correct account of the 
Weather which I can offer: 



126 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



a ^r^ 


Month and 


^ 2 ^ 


Year. 


to — O'>tOtOKDtOtO6OK3tOtON0i— --H--- 1 


Date. 


Ou3CC-Ma-O>H^0JlsD— 'O^CO--1C?. 1 


-<l 00 CO CO 00 1 

O CO '^OWl'- CO CO <0 00 OOtol- «3 OOWl- 00 OK.l^»o|^ | 


Hours A. IN' - 


0% to O 4^ 03 1 


below 0. 




above 0. 


w 


^ 






y 




5^ 








Wind. 














* 






< w 




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In this situation, removed from all those ready 
aids which add so much to the comfort, and, indeed 



NORTH- WESt CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 127 

is a principal characteristic of civilized life, I was 
under the necessity of employing my judgment 
and experience in accessory circumstances by 
no means connected with the habits of my life, or 
the enterprise in which I was immediately engag- 
ed. I was now among the people who had no 
knowledge whatever of remediable application 
to those disorders and accidents to which man is 
liable in every part of the globe, in the distant 
wilderness, as in the peopled city. They had not 
the least acquaintance with that primitive medi- 
cine, which consists in an experience of the heal- 
ing virtues of herbs and plants, and is frequently 
found among uncivilised and savage nations. This 
circumstance now obliged me to be their physician 
and surgeon, as a woman with a swelled breast, 
which had been lacerated with flint stones for the 
cure of it, presented herself to my attention, and by 
cleanHness, poultices, and healing salve, I suc- 
ceeded in producing a cure. One of my people, 
also, who was at work in the woods, was attacked 
with a sudden pain near the first joint of his thumb, 
w^hich disabled him from holding an axe. On 
examining his arm, I was astonished to find a nar- 
row red stripe, about half an inch wide, from his 
thumb to his shoulder ; the pain was violent, and 
accompanied with chilliness and shivering. This 
was a case that appeared to be beyond my skill, but 
it was necessary to do something towards reliev- 
ing the mind of the patient, though I might be un- 
successful in removing his complaint. I accor- 
ding!} prepared a kind of volatile linament of rum 
and soap, with which I ordered his arm to be rub- 
bed, but with little or no effect. He was in a rav- 
ing state throughout the night, and the red stripe 
not only increased, but was also accompanied with 
the appearance of several blotches on his body, 
and pains in his stomach; the propriety of taking 



125 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

some blood from him now occurred to me, and 1 
ventured, from absolute necessity, to perform that 
operation for the first time, and with an effect that 
justified the treatment. The following night af- 
forded him rest, and in a short time he regained 
his former health and activity. 

I was very much surprised on walking in the 
woods at such an inclement period of the year, to 
be saluted with the singing of birds, while they 
seemed by their vivacity to be actuated by the in- 
vigorating power of a more genial season. Of 
these birds the male was something less than the 
robin ; part of his body is of a delicate fawn colour, 
and his neck, breast, and belly, of a deep scai'let; 
the wings are black, edged with fawn colour, and 
two white stripes running across them ; the tail is 
variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The 
female is smaller than the male, and of a fawn co- 
lour throughout, except on the neck, which is en- 
livened by an hue of glossy yellow. I have no 
doubt but they are constant inhabitants of this cli- 
mate, as well as some other small birds which we 
saw, of a grey colour. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 129 



CHAPTER II. 

Remo'Ded from the tent to the house. Build habi- 
tations for the people. The hardships they 
suffer. Violent hurricane. Singular circum- 
stances attending it. The commencement of 
the nem) year. An Indian cured of a danger- 
ous wound. State of the weather. Curious 
customs among the Indians^ on the death of a 
relation. Account of a quarrel. An Indian^ $ 
reasoning on it. Murder of one of the Indians, 
The cause of it. Some account of the Rocky 
Mountain Indians, Curious circumstance res- 
pecting a woman in labour^ ^c, A dispute 
between two Indians^ which arose from gam- 
ing. An account of one of their games, In- 
dian superstition. Mildness of the season* 
The Indians prepare snow shoes. Singular 
customs. Further account of their manners. 
The slan^ish state of the women. Appearance of 
spring. Dispatch canoes with the trade to Fort 
Chepewyan, Make preparations for the "coy age 
of discovery, 

December 2^, 1792. 

I THIS day removed from the tent into the 
house which had been erected for me, and set all 
the men to begin the buildings intended for their 
own habitation. Materials sufficient to erect a 
range of five houses for them, of about seventeen 
by twelve feet, were already collected. It would 
be considered by the inhabitants of a milder cli- 
mate, as a great evil, to be exposed to the weather 
at this rigorous season of the year, but these peo- 
ple are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe 
in some measure the hardships which they undergo 



130 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

without a murmur, in order to convey a general 
notion of them. . 

The men who were now with me, left this place 
in the beginning of last May, and went to the Rainy 
Lake in canoes, laden with packs of fur, which, 
from the immense length of the voyage, and other 
concurring circumstances, is a most severe trial of 
patience and perseverance : there they do not re- 
main a sufficient time for ordinary repose, when 
they take a load of goods in exchange, and pro- 
ceed on their return, in a great measure, day and 
night. They had been arrived near two months, 
and, all that time, had been continually engaged 
in very toilsome labour, with nothing more than a 
common shed to protect them from the frost and 
snow. Such is the life which these people lead ; 
and is continued with unremitting exertion, till 
their strength is lost in premature old age. 

The Canadians remarked, that the weather we 
had on the 25th, 26th, and 27th of this month, 
denoted such as we might expect in the three suc- 
ceeding months. On the 29th, the wind being at 
North- East, and the weather calm and cloudy, a 
rumbling noise was heard in the air like distant 
thunder, when the sky cleared away in the South- 
West ; from whence there blew a perfect hurricane, 
which lasted till eight. Soon after it commenced, 
the atmosphere became so warm that it dissolved 
all the snow on the ground ; even the ice was co- 
vered with water, and had the same appearance as 
when it is breaking up in the sprhig. From eight 
to nine the weather became calm, but immediately 
after a wind arose from the North -East with equal 
violence, with clouds, rain, and hail, which con- 
tinued throughout the night and till the evening of 
the next day, when it turned to snow. One of 
the people who wintered at Fort Dauphin in the 
year 1780, when the smallpox first appeared there^. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 131 

informed me, that the weather there was of a simi- 
lar description. 

January 1, 1793. On the first day of January, 
my people, in conformity to the usual custom, 
awoke me at the break of day with the discharge 
of fire-arms, with which they congratulated the 
appearance of the new year. In return, they were 
treated w^ith plenty of spirits, and when there is 
any flour, cakes are always added to their regales, 
which was the case, on the present occasion. 

On my arrival here last fall, I found that one of 
the young Indians had lost the use of his right 
hand by the bursting of a gun, and that his thumb 
had been maimed in such a manner as to hang only 
by a small strip of flesh. Indeed, when he was 
brought to me, his wound was in such an offensive 
state, and emitted such a putrid smell, that it re- 
quired all the resolution I possessed to examine it* 
His friends had done every thing in their power to 
relieve him ; but as it consisted only in singing 
about him, and blowing upon his hand, the wound, 
as may be well imagined, had got into the deplora- 
ble state in which I found it. I was rather alarmed 
at the difficulty of the case, but as the young man's 
life was in a state of hazard, I was determined to 
risk my surgical reputation, and accordingly took 
him under my care. I immediately formed a poul- 
tice of bark, stripped from the roots of the spruce- 
fir, which I applied to the wound, having first wash- 
ed it with the juice of the bark : this proved a ve- 
ry painful dressing : in a few days, however, the 
wound was clean, and the proud flesh around it 
destroyed. I washed very much in this state of 
the business to have separated the thumb from the 
hand, which I well knew must be effected before 
the cure could be performed; but he would not 
consent to that operation, till, by the application of 

M m 



132 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

V itriol, the flesh by which the thumb was suspend- 
ed, was shrivelled ahuost to a thread. When I 
had succeeded in this object, I perceived that the 
wound was closing rather faster than I desired. 
The salve I applied on the occasion was made of 
the Canadian balsam, wax, and tallow dropped 
from a burning candle into water. In short, I was 
so successful, that about Christmas my patient 
engaged in a hunting party, and brought me the 
tongue of an elk : nor was he finally ungrateful. 
When he left me I received the warmest acknow- 
ledgments, both from himself and his relations 
w^ith whom he departed, for my care of him. I 
certainly did not spare my time or attention on the 
occasion, as I regularly dressed his wound three 
times a day, during the course of a month. 

On the 5th in the morning the weather was 
calm, clear, and very cold ; the wind blew from 
the South- West, and in the course of the afternoon 
it began to thaw. I had already observed at Atha- 
basca, that this Vv ind never failed to bring us clear 
mild weather, whereas, when it blew from the op- 
posite quarter, it produced snow. Here it is much 
more perceptible, for if it blows hard South- West 
for four hours, a thaw is the consequence, and if 
the wind is at North-East it brings sleet and snow. 
To this cause it may be attributed, that there is 
now so little snow in this part of the world. These 
warm winds come off the Pacific Ocean, which 
cannot, in a direct line, be very far from us ; the 
distance being so short, that though they pass over 
mountains covered with snow, there is not time 
for them to cool. 

There being several of the natives at the house 
at this time, one of them, who had received an ac- 
count of the death of his father, proceeded in si- 
lence to his lodge, and began to fire oif his gun. 
As it was night, and such a noise being so uncom- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 133 

mon at such an hour, especially when it was so 
often repeated, I sent my interpreter to inquire 
into the cause of it, when he was informed by the 
man himself, that this was a common custom with 
them on the death of a near relation, and was a 
warning to their friends not to approach, or intrude 
upon them, as they were, in consequence of their 
loss, become careless of life. The chief, to 
whom the deceased person was also related, ap- 
peared with his war-cap on his head, which is 
only worn on these solemn occasions, or when 
preparing for battle, and confirmed to me this sin- 
gular custom of firing guns, in order to express 
their grief for the death of relations and friends^-. 
The women alone indulge in tears on such occa- 
sions ; the men considering it aj^ a mark of pusil- 
lanimity and a want of fortitude to betray any per- 
sonal tokens of sensibility or sorrow. 

The Indians informed me, that they had been 
to hunt at a large lake, called by the Knisteneaux, 
the Slave Lake, which derived its name from that of 
its original inhabitants, who were called Slaves. 
They represented it as a large body of water, and 
that it lies about one hundred and twenty miles due 
East from this place. It is well known to the 
Knisteneaux, who are among the inhabitants of the 
plains on the banks of the Saskatchiwine river; 
for formerly, when they used to come to make 
war in this country, they came in their canoes to 
that lake, and left them there ; from thence, there 
is a beaten path all the way to the Fork, or East 
branch of this river, which w^as their war-road. 



* When they are drinkm^ together, they frequently present their guns 
to each other, when any of the parties have not other means of procur- 
ing rum. On such an occasion they always discharge their pieces, as a 
proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine the quan- 
tity of liquor they may propo'^e to get in excbanj^e for them. 



134 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

January 10. Among the people who were 
now here, there were two Rocky Mountain In- 
dians, who declared, that the people to whom we 
had given that denomination, are by no means en- 
titled to it, and that their country has ever been in 
the vicinity of our present situation. They said, 
in support of their assertion, that these people were 
entirely ignorant of those parts which are adjacent 
to the mountain, as well as the navigation of the 
river \ that the Beaver Indians had greatly en- 
croached upon them, and would soon force them 
to retire to the foot of these mountains. They re- 
presented themselves as the only real natives of 
that country then with me; and added, that the 
country, and that part of the river that intervenes 
between this place and the mountains, bear much 
the same appearance as that around us ; that the 
former abounds with animals, but that the course 
of the latter is interrupted, near, and in the moun- 
tains, by successive rapids and considerable falls. 
These men also informed me, that there is another 
great river towards the mid-day sun, whose cur- 
rent runs in that direction, and that the distance 
from it is not great across the mountains. 

The natives brought me plenty of furs. The 
small quantity of snow, at this time, was particu- 
larly favourable for bunting the beaver, as from 
this circumstance, those animals could, with 
greater facility, be traced from their lodges to their 
lurking-places. 

On the ISih our hunter arrived, having left his 
mother-k -lav/, who was lately become a Madow 
with ^hree small children, and in actual labour of 
a fourth. Her daughter related this circumstance 
to the women here without the least appearance of 
concern, thou£;h she represented her as in a state of 
great danger, which probably might proceed from 
her being abandoned in this unnatural manner. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 135 

At the same time without any apparent conscious- 
ness of her own barbarous negligence, if the poor 
abandoned woman should die, she would most 
probably lament her with great outcries, and, per- 
haps cut off one or two joints of her fingers as 
tokens of her grief. The Indians, indeed, consi- 
der the state of a woman in labour as among the 
most trifling occurrences of corporal pain to which 
human nature is subject, and they may be, in some 
measure justified in this apparent insensibility from 
the circumstances of that situation among them- 
selves. It is by no means uncommon in the hasty 
removal of their camps from one position to ano- 
ther, for a w^oman to be taken in labour, to deliver 
herself in her way, without any assistance or no- 
tice from her associates in her journey, and to over- 
take them before they complete the arrangements 
of their evening station, with her new-born babe 
on her back. 

I was this morning threatened with a very un- 
pleasant event, which, however, I was fortunately 
able to controul. Two young Indians being 
engaged in one of their games, a dispute ensued, 
which rose to such a height, that they drew^ their 
knives, and if I had not happened to have appeared, 
they would I doubt not, have employed them to 
very bloody purposes. So violent was their rage, 
that after I had turned them both out of the house, 
and severely reprimanded them, they stood in the 
fort for at least half an hour, looking at each other 
with a most vindictive aspect, and in sullen si- 
lence. 

The game which produced this state of bitter 
enmity, is called that of the Platter, from a princi- 
pal article of it. The Indians play at it in the fol- 
lowing manner. 

The instruments of it consist of- a platter, or 
dish, made of wood or bark, and six round or 



136 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

square but flat pieces of metal, wovod, or stone, 
whose sides or surfaces are of different colours. 
These are put into the dish, and after being for 
some time shaken together, are thrown into the air, 
and received again into the dish with conisiderable 
dexterity; when, by the number that are turned up 
of the same mark or colour, the game is regulated. 
If there should be equal numbers, the throw is not 
reckoned ; if two or four, the platter changes 
hands. 

On the 13th, one of these people came to me, 
and presented in himself a curious example of In- 
dian superstition. He requested me to furnish him 
with a remedy that might be applied to the joints 
of his legs and thighs, of which he had, in a great 
measure lost the use for five v/inters. This afflic- 
tion he attributed to his cruelty about that time, 
when having found a wolf with two whelps in an 
old beaver lodge, he set fire to it and consumed 
them. 

The winter had been so mild, that the swans 
had but lately left us, and at this advanced period 
there was very little snow on the ground : it was, 
however, at this time a foot and a half in depth, in 
the environs of the establishment below this, which 
is at the distance of about seventy leagues. 

On the 28th the Indians were now employed in 
making their snow-shoes, as the snow had not 
hitherto fallen in sufficient quantity to render them 
necessary. 

February 2. The weather now became very cold, 
and it froze so hard in the night that my v/atch 
stopped ; a circumstance that had never happened 
to this watch since m}^ residence in the country. 

There was a lodge of Indians here, who were 
absolutely starving v/ith cold and hunger. They 
had lately lost a near relation, and had according to 
custom, thrown away every thing belonging to 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 137 

them, and even exchanged the few articles of rai- 
ment which they possessed, in order, as I presume, 
to get rid of every thing that may bring the de- 
ceased to their remembrance. They also destroy 
every thing belonging to any deceased person, ex- 
cept what they consign to the grave with the late 
owner of them. We had some difficulty to make 
them comprehend that the debts of a man who 
dies should be discharged, if he left any furs be- 
hind him : but those who understand this princi- 
ple of justice, and profess to adhere it, never fail 
to prevent the appearance of any skins beyond such 
as may be necessary to satisfy the debts of their 
dead relation. 

On the 8th I had an observation for the longi- 
tude. In the course of this day one of my men, 
who had been some time with the Indians, came 
to inform me that one of them had threatened to 
stab him ; and on his preferring a complaint to the 
man with whom he now lived, and to w^hom I had 
given him in charge, he replied, that he had been 
very imprudent to play and quarrel wdth the young 
Indians out of his lodge, where no one would dare 
to come and quarrel with him ; but that if he had 
lost his life where he had been, it would have been 
the consequence of his own folly. Thus, even 
among these children of nature, it appears that a 
man's house is his castle, where the protection of 
hospitality is rigidly maintained. 

The hard frost which had prevailed from the 
beginning of February continued to the 16th of 
March, when the wind blowing from the South- 
West, the weather became mild. 

On the 22d a wolf was so bold as to venture 
among the Indian lodges, and was very near carry- 
ing off a child. 

I had another observation of Jupiter and his 
satellites for the longitude. On the 13th some 



138 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

geese were seen, and these birds are always con- 
sidered as the harbingers of spring. On the first 
of April my hunters shot five of them. This was 
a much earlier period than I ever remember to have 
observed the visits of wild fowl in this part of the 
world. The weather had been mild for the last 
fortnight, and there was a promise of its continu- 
ance. On the 5th the snow had entirely disap- 
peared. 

At half past four this morning I was awakened to 
be informed that an Indian had been killed. 
I accordingly hastened to the camp, where I 
found two women employed in rolling up the dead 
body of a man, called the White Partridge, in a 
beaver robe, which I had lent him. He had re- 
ceived four mortal wounds from a dagger, two 
within the collar bone, one in the left breast, and 
another in the small of the back, with two cuts a- 
cross his head. The murderer, who had been my 
hunter throughout the winter, had fled ; and it 
was pretended that several relations of the deceas- 
ed were gone in pursuit of him. The history of 
this unfortunate event is as follows : — 

These two men had been comrades for four 
years ; the murderer had three wives ; and the 
young man who was killed, becoming enamoured 
of one of them, the husband consented to yield her 
to him, with the reserved power of claiming her 
as his property, when it should be his pleasure. 

This connection was uninterrupted for near 
three years, when, whimsical as it may appear, 
the husband became jealous, and the public amour 
was suspended. The parties, however, made 
their private assignations, which caused the woman 
to be so ill treated by her husband, that the para- 
mour was determined to take her away by force ; 
and this project ended in his death. This is a very 
common practice among the Indians, and gene' 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 139 

rally terminates in very serious and fatal quarrels. 
In consequence of this event all the Indians went 
away in great apparent hurry and confusion, and 
in the evening not one of them was to be seen 
about the fort. 

The Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians, who 
traded with us in this river, did not exceed an 
hundred and fifty men, capable of bearing arms ; 
two thirds of whom call themselves Beaver Indians. 
The latter differ only from the former, as they 
have, more or less, imbibed the customs and man- 
ners of the Knisteneaux. As I have already obser- 
ved, they are passionately fond of liquor, and in 
the moments of their festivity will barter any thing 
they have in their possession for it. 

Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with 
the Knisteneaux, at Peace Point, as already men- 
tioned, yet they did not secure a state of amity 
from others of the same nation, who had di'iven 
away the natives of the Saskatchiwine and Missi- 
nipy Rivers, and joined at the head water of the 
latter, called the Beaver River : from thence they 
proceeded West by the Slave Lake just described, 
on their war excursions, which they often repeat- 
ed, even till the Beaver Indians had procured arms, 
which was in the year 1782. If it so happened 
that they missed them, they proceeded Westward 
till they were certain of wreaking their vengeance 
on those of the Rocky Mountain, who being with- 
out arms, became an easy prey to their blind and 
savage fury. All the European articles they pos- 
sessed, previous to the year 1780, were obtained 
from the Knisteneaux and Chepewyans, who 
brought them from Fort Churchill, and for which 
they were made to pay an extravagant price. 

As late as the year 1786, when the first traders 
from Canada arrived on the banks of this river, the 
natives employed bows and snares, but at present 

N n 



140 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

verv little use is made of the former, and the lat- 
ter are no longer known. They still entertain a 
great dread of their natural enemies, but they are 
since become so well armed, that the others now 
call them their allies. The men are in general of 
a comely appearance, and fond of personal decora- 
tion. The women are of a contrary disposition, 
and the slaves of the men : in common with all the 
Indian tribes polygamy is allowed among them. 
They are very subject to jealousy, and fatal con- 
sequences frequently result from the indulgence of 
that passion. But notwithstanding the vigilance 
and severity which is exercised by the husband, 
it seldom happens that a woman is without her fa- 
vourite, who, in the absence of the husband, ex- 
acts the same submission, and practises the same 
tyranny. And so premature is the tender passion, 
that it is sometimes known to invigorate so early a 
period of life as the age of eleven or twelve years. 
The women are not very prolific : a circumstance 
which may be attributed in a great measure, to 
the hardships that they suffer, for except a few 
small dogs, they alone perform that labour which 
is allotted to beasts of burthen in other countries. 
It is not uncommon, while the men carry nothing 
but a gun, that their wives and daughters follow 
with such weighty burdens, that if they lay them 
down they cannot replace them, and that is a kind- 
ness which the men will not deign to perform ; so 
that during their journeys they are frequently obli- 
ged to lean against a tree for a small portion of tem- 
porary relief. When they arrive at the place 
which their tyrants have chosen for their encamp- 
ment, they arrange the whole in a few minutes, 
by forming a curve of poles, meeting at the top, 
and expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen feet 
diameter at the bottom, covered with dressed skins^ 
of the moose sewed together. During these pre- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 141 

parations, the men sit down quietly to the enjoy- 
ment of their pipes, if they happen to have any to- 
bacco. But notwithstanding this abject state of 
slavery and submission, the women have a consi- 
derable influence on the opinion of the men in 
every thing except their own domestic situation. 
These Indians are excellent hunters, and their 
exercise in that capacity is so violent as to reduce 
them in general to a very meagre appearance. 
Their religion is of a very contracted nature, and I 
never witnessed any ceremony of devotion which 
they had not borrowed from the Knisteneaux, 
their feasts and fasts being in imitation of that peo- 
ple. They are more vicious and warlike than the 
Chepewyans, from whence they sprang, though 
they do not possess their selfishness, for while they 
have the means of purchasing their necessaries, 
they are liberal and generous, but when those are 
exhausted they become errant beggars : they are, 
however, remarkable for their honesty, for in the 
whole tribe there were only two women and a man 
who had been known to have swerved from that 
virtue, and they were considered as objects of dis- 
regard and reprobation. They are afflicted with 
but few diseases, and their only remedies consist 
in binding the temples, procuring perspiration, 
singing, and blowing on the sick person, or affect- 
ed part. When death overtakes any of them, 
their property, as I have before observed, is sacri- 
ficed and destroyed ; nor is there any failure of 
lamentation or mourning on such occasion : they 
who are more nearly related to the departed person, 
black their faces, and sometimes cut off their hair; 
they also pierce their arms with knives and arrows. 
The grief of the females is carried to a still greater 
excess; they not only cut their hair, and cry and 
howl, but they wdll sometimes, with the utmost 
deliberation, employ some sharp instrument to se- 



142 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

parate the nail from the finger, and then force back 
the flesh beyond the first joint, which they imme- 
diately amputate. But this extraordinary mark of 
affliction is only displayed on the death of a favour- 
ite son, a husband, or a father. Many of the old 
women have so often repeated this ceremony, 
that they have not a complete finger remaining on 
either hand. The women renew their lamentations 
at the graves of their departed relatives, for a long 
succession of years. They appear, in common 
with all the Indian tribes, to be very fond of their 
children, but they are as careless in their mode of 
swadling them in their infant state, as they are of 
their own dress : the child is laid down on a board, 
of about two feet long, covered with a bed of moss, 
to which it is fastened by bandages, the moss be- 
ing changed as often as the occasion requires. 
The chief of the nation had no less than nine wives, 
and children in proportion. 

When traders first appeared among these people, 
the Canadians were treated with the utmost hospi- 
tality and attention ; but they have, by their subse- 
quent conduct, taught the natives to withdraw that 
respect from them, and sometimes to treat them 
with indignity. They differ very much from the 
Chepewyans and Knisteneaux, in the abhorrence 
they profess of any carnal communication between 
their women and the white people. They carry 
their love of gaming to excess ; they will pursue 
it for a succession of days and nights, and no appre- 
hension of ruin, nor influence of domestic affec- 
tion, will restrain them from the indulgence of it. 
They are a quick, lively, active people, with a 
keen, penetrating, dark eye ; and though they are 
very susceptible of anger, are as easily appeased. 
The males eradicate their beards, and the females 
their hair in every part, except their heads, where 
it is strong and black, and without a curl. There 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. U3 

are many old men among them, but they are in 
general ignorant of the space in which they have 
been inhabitants of the earth, though one of them 
told me that he recollected sixty winters. 

An Indian in some measure explained his age to 
me, by relating that he remembered the opposite 
hills and plains, now interspersed with groves of 
poplars, when they were covered with moss, and 
without any animal inhabitant but the rein -deer. 
By degrees, he said, the face of the country chang- 
ed to its present appearance, when the elk came 
from the East, and was followed by the buifalo ; 
the rein-deer then retired to the long range of 
high lands that, at a considerable distance, run 
parallel, with this river. 

On the 20th of April I had an observation of 
Jupiter and his satellites, for the longitude, and we 
were now visited by our summer companions the 
gnats and musquitoes. On the other side of the 
river, which was yet covered with ice, the plains 
were delightful ; the trees were budding, and ma- 
ny plants in blossom. Mr. Mackay brought me a 
bunch of flowers of a pink colour, and a yellow 
button, encircled w^ith six leaves of a light purple. 
The change in the appearance of nature was as 
sudden as it was pleasing, for a few days only were 
passed away since the ground was covered with 
snow. On the 25th the river was cleared of the ice. 

I now found that the death of the man called the 
White Partridge, had deranged all the plans which 
I had settled with the Indians for the spring hunt- 
ing. They had assembled at some distance from 
the fort, and sent an embassy to me, to demand rum 
to drink, that they might have an opportunity of 
crying for their deceased brother. It would be con- 
sidered as an extreme degradation in an Indian 
to weep when sober, bat a state of intoxication 
sanctions all irregularities. On my refusal, they 



144 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

threatened to go to war, which, from motives of 
interest as well as humanity, we did our utmost to 
discourage ; and as a second message was brought 
by persons of some weight among these people, 
and on whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to 
comply with the demand, on an express condition, 
that they would continue peaceably at home. 

The month of April being now past, in the early 
part of which I was most bnsily employed in 
trading with the Indians, I ordered our old canoes 
to be repaired with bark, and added four new ones 
to them, when, with the furs and provisions I had 
purchased, six canoes were loaded and dispatched 
on the 8th of May, for Fort Chepewyan. I had, 
however, retained six of the men, who agreed to 
accompany me on my projected voyage of disco- 
very. I also engaged my hunters, and closed the 
business of the year for the company by writing 
my public and private dispatches. 

Having ascertained, by various observations, 
the latitude of this place to be 56. 9. North, and 
longitude 117. 35. 15. West : on the 9th day of 
May, I found, that my aerometer was one hour 
forty- six minutes slow to apparent time ; the mean 
going of it I had found to be twenty- two seconds 
slow in twenty -four hours. Having settled this 
point, the canoe was put into the water ; her di- 
mensions were twenty-five feet long within, exclu- 
sive of the curves of stem and stern, tv/enty-six 
inches hold, and four feet nine inches beam. At 
the same time she was so light, that two men could 
carry her on a good road three or four miles with- 
out resting. In this slender vessel, we shipped 
provisions, goods for presents, arms, ammunition, 
and baggage, to the weight of three thousand 
pounds, and an equipage of ten people ; viz. Alex- 
ander Mackay, Joseph Landry, Charles Ducette*, 

* Joseph Landry and Charles Ducette were with me hi my former voyage. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 145 

Frangois Beaulieux, Baptist Bisson, Francois 
Courtois, and Jaques Beauchamp, with two In- 
dians, as hunters and interpreters. One of them, 
when a boy, used to be so idle, that he obtained 
the reputable name of Cancre, which he still pos- 
sesses. With these persons I embarked at seven 
in the evening. My winter interpreter, with ano- 
ther person, whom I left here to take care of the fort, 
and supply the natives with ammunition during 
the summer, shed tears on the reflection of those 
dangers which we might encounter in our expedi- 
tion, while my own people offered up their prayers 
that we might return in safety from it. 



146 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER IIL 

Proceed on the voyage of disco'uery. Beautiful 
scenery. The canoe too heamly laden. The 
country ifi a state of combustion. Meet 'ivitb 
a hunting party. State of the river, ^c. 
Meet with Indians, See the tracks of bearsy 
and one of their dens. Sentiment of an Indi- 
an, function of the Bear River, Appear- 
ance of the country. State of the river, Ob- 
serve a fall of timber, Abu7idance of animals. 
See some bears. Come in sight of the rocky 
mountains. The canoe receives an injury and 
is repaired. Navigation dangerous, Rapids 
and falls. Succession of difficulties and dan- 
gers. 

May, 1793, 

Thursday, 9. We began our voyage with a 
course South by West against a strong current one 
mile and three quarters, South- West by South one 
mile, and landed before eight on an island for the 
night. 

Friday 10. The weather was clear and plea- 
sant, though there was a keenness in the air ; and 
at a quarter past three in the morning we continu- 
ed our voyage, steering South- West three quar- 
ters of a mile. South- West by South one mile and 
a quarter. South three quarters of a mile, South- 
West by South one quarter of a mile, South- West 
by West one mile. South- West by South three 
miles, South by West three quarters of a mile, 
and South-West one mile. The canoe being 
strained from its having been very heavily laden, 
became so leaky, that we were obliged to land, 
unload, and gum it. As this circumstance took 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 147 

place about twelve, I had an opportunity of taking 
an altitude, which made our latitude 55, 58. 48. 

When the canoe was repaired we continued our 
course, steering South- West by West one mile 
and an half, when I had the misfortune to drop 
my pocket- compass into the water ; West half a 
mile. West- South- West four miles and an half. 
Here, the banks are steep and hilly, and in some 
parts undermined by the river. Where the earth 
has given way, the face of the cliffs discovers nu- 
merous strata, consisting of reddish earth and small 
stones, bitumen, and a greyish earth, below which, 
near the water-edge, is a red stone. Water issues 
from most of the banks, and the ground on which 
it spreads is covered with a thin white scurf, or 
particles of a saline substance : there are several of 
these salt springs. At half past six in the after- 
noon the young men landed, when they killed an 
elk and wounded a buffalo. In this spot we form- 
ed our encampment for the night. 

From the place which we quitted this morning, 
the West side of the river displayed a succession 
of the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld. 
The ground rises at intervals to a considerable 
height, and stretching inwards to a considerable 
distance : at every interval or pause in the rise, 
there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn, 
which is alternate with abrupt precipices to the 
summit of the whole, or, at least as far as the eye 
could distinguish. This magnificent theatre of 
nature has all the decorations which the trees and 
animals of the country can afford it : groves of 
poplars in every shape vary the scene ; and their 
intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and 
buffaloes : the former choosing the steeps and up- 
lands, and the latter preferring the plains. At 
this time the buffaloes were attended with their 
young ones who were frisking about them : and it 

o o 



148 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

appeared that the elks would soon exhibit the same 
enlivening circumstance. The whole country dis- 
played an exuberant verdure ; the trees that bear 
a blossom were advancing fast to that delightful 
appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches 
reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting 
sun, added a splendid gaiety to the scene, which 
no expressions of mine are qualified to describe. 
The East side of the river consists of a range of 
high land covered with the white spruce and the 
soft birch, while the banks abound with the alder 
and the willow. The water continued to rise, and 
the current being proportionably strong, we 
made a greater use of setting poles than paddles. 

Saturday y 11. The weather was overcast. With 
a strong wind a-head, we embarked at four in the 
morning, and left all the fresh meat behind us, but 
the portion which had been assigned to the kettle; 
the canoe being already too heavily laden. Our 
course was West- South- West one mile, where a 
small river flowed in from the East, named ^lis- 
cat'ina Sepy^ or River with the High Banks; West 
half a mile, South half a mile, South- West by West 
three quarters of a mile. West one mile and a quar- 
ter, South- West a quarter of a mile. South- South- 
West half a mile, and West by South a mile and 
a lialf. Here I took a meridian altitude, which 
gave o5, 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceed- 
ed West three miles and a half, West- South- West, 
where the whole plain was on fire, one mile. West 
one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it 
occasioned the canoe to take in water, and other- 
wise impeded our progress. Here we landed to 
take time, with the mean of three altitudes, which 
made the watch slow 1. 42. 10. 

We now proceeded West- South- West one mile 
and a quarter, where we found a chief of the Bea- 
ver Indians on a hunting party. I remained, how- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 149 

ever, in my canoe, and though it was getting late, 
I did not choose to encamp with these people, lest 
the friends of my hunters might discourage them 
from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore, 
continued our course, but several Indians kept 
company with us, running along the bank, and con- 
versing with my people, who w^ere so attentive to 
them, that they drove the canoe on a stony flat, so 
that we were under the necessity of landing to re- 
pair the damages, and put up for the night, though 
very contrary to my wishes. My hunters obtain- 
ed permission to proceed with some of these peo- 
ple to their lodges, on the promise of being back 
by the break of day ; though I was not without some 
apprehension respecting them. The chief, howe- 
ver, and another man, as well as several people 
from the lodges, joined us, before we had comple- 
ted the repair of the canoe; and they made out a 
melancholy story, that they had neither ammunition 
or tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply du- 
ring the summer. I accordingly referred him to 
the Fort, where plenty of those articles were left 
in the care of my interpreter, by whom they would 
be abundantly furnished, if they were active and 
industrious in pursuing their occupations. I did 
not fail, on this occasion, to magnify the advanta- 
ges of the present expedition ; observing, at the 
same time, that its success would depend on the 
fidelity and conduct of the young men who were 
retained by me to hunt. The chief also proposed 
to borrow my canoe, in order to transport himself 
and family across the river; several plausible rea- 
sons, it is true, suggested themselves for resisting 
his proposition ; but when I stated to him, that, as 
the canoe was intended for a voyage of such conse- 
quence, no woman could be permitted to be em- 
barked in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was 



150 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

near twelve at night when he took his leave, after 
I had gratified him with a present of tobacco. 

Sunday^ 12. Some of the Indians passed the 
night with us, and I was informed by them, that 
according to our mode of proceeding, we should, 
in ten days, get as far as the rocky mountains. 
The young men now returned, to my great satis- 
faction, and with the appearance of contentment ; 
though I was not pleased when they dressed them- 
selves in the clothes which I had given them before 
we left the Fort, as it betrayed some latent design. 
At four in the morning we proceeded on our 
voyage, steering West three miles, including one 
of our course yesterday, North- West by North 
four miles. West two miles and a half, North- 
West by West a mile and a half. North by East 
two miles, North- West by West one mile, and 
North- North-^Vest three miles. After a conti- 
nuation of our course to the North for a mile and a 
half, we landed for the night on an island where 
several of the Indians visited us, but unattended 
by their women, who remained in their camp, 
which was at some distance from us. 

The land on both sides of the river, during the 
two last days, is very much elevated, but particu- 
larly in the latter part of it, and, on the Western 
side, presents in different places, white, steep, and 
lofty cliffs. Our view being confined by these cir- 
cumstances, we did not see so many animals as on 
the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries, the 
river becomes narrow, and in a great measure free 
from islands; for we had passed only four: the 
stream, indeed, was not more than from two hun- 
dred to three hundred yards broad; whereas be- 
fore these cliffs pressed upon it, its breadth was 
twice that extent and besprinkled with islands. 
We killed an elk, and fired several shots at animals 
from the canoe. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 151 

The greater part of this band being Rocky 
Mountain Indians, I endeavoured to obtain some 
intelligence of our intended route, but they all 
pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that 
they knew nothing of the country beyond the first 
mountain : at the same time they were of opinion, 
that, from the strength of the current and the rapids 
we should not get there by water ; though they did 
not hesitate to express their surprise at the expe- 
dition we had already made. 

I inquired, with some anxiety, after an old man 
who had already given me an account of the coun- 
try beyond the limits of his tribe, and was very 
much disappointed at being informed, that he had 
not been seen for upwards of a moon. This man 
had been at war on another large river beyond the 
Rocky Mountain, and described to me a fork of it 
between the mountains ; the Southern branch of 
which he directed me to take ; from thence, he 
said, there was a carrying-place of about a day's 
march for a young man to get to the other river. 
To prove the truth of his relation, he consented, 
that his son, who had been with him in those parts, 
should accompany me ; and he accordingly sent 
him to the fort some days before my departure ; 
but the preceding night he deserted with another 
young man, whose application to attend me as a 
hunter, being refused, he persuaded the other to 
leave me. I now thought it right to repeat to 
them what I had said to the chief of the first band, 
respecting the advantages which would be derived 
from the voyage, that the young men might be 
encouraged to remain with me ; as without them 
I should not have attempted to proceed. 

Monday^ 13. The first object that presented it- 
self to me this morning was the young man whom I 
have already mentioned, as having seduced av ay 
my intended guide. At any other time or place. 



152 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

I should have chastised him for his past conduct, 
but in my situation it was necessary to pass over 
his offence, lest he should endeavour to exercise 
the same influence over those who were so essential 
to my service. Of the deserted he gave no satis- 
factory account, but continued to express his wish 
to attend me in his place, for which he did not pos- 
sess any necessary qualifications. 

The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of 
rain ; and the Indians pressed me with great ear- 
nestness to pass the day with them, and hoped to 
prolong my stay among them by assuring me that 
the winter yet lingered in the rocky mountains ; 
but my object was to lose no time, and having given 
the chief some tobacco for a small quantity of 
meat, we embarked at four, when my young men 
could not conceal their chagrin at parting with their 
friends, for so long a period as the voyage threat- 
ened to occupy. When I had asured them that in 
three moons we should return to them, we proceed- 
ed on our course West- North- West half a mile, 
West- South- West one mile and a half, West by 
North three miles, North- West by West two miles 
and a half. South- West by West half a mile, 
South- South- West a mile and a half, and South- 
West a mile and a half. Here I had a meridian 
altitude, which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude. 

The last course continued a mile and a half. 
South by West, three quarters of a mile, South- 
West by South three miles and a half, and West- 
South- West two miles and a half. Here the land 
lowered on both sides, withuan increase of wood, 
and displayed great numbers of animals. The 
river also widened from three to five hundred 
yards, and v/as full of islands and fiats. Having 
continued our course three miles, we made for the 
shore at seven, to pass the night. 



NOitTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 153 

At the place from whence we proceeded this 
morning, a river falls in from the North ; there 
aje also several islands, and many rivulets on ei- 
ther side, which are too small to deserve particu- 
lar notice. We perceived along the river, tracks 
of large bears, some of which were nine inches 
wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one 
of their dens, or winter-quarters, called ivatee^ in 
an island, which was ten feet deep, five feet high, 
and six feet wide ; but we had not yet seen one of 
those animals. The Indians entertain great appre- 
hension of this kind of bear, which is called the 
grisly bear, and they never venture to attack it but 
in a party of at least three or four. Our hunters, 
though they had been much higher than this part 
of our voyage, by land, knew nothing of the river. 
One of them mentioned, that having been engaged 
in a war expedition, his party on their return made 
their canoes at some distance below us. The wind 
was North throughout the day, and at times blew 
with considerable violence. 

The apprehensions which I had felt respecting 
the young men were not altogether groundless, for 
the eldest of them told me that his uncle had last 
night addressed him in the following manner : — 
*' My nephew, your departure makes my heart 
painful. The white people may be said to rob us 
of you. They are about to conduct you into the 
midst of our enemies, and you may never more 
return to us. Were you not with the Chief*, I 
know not what I should do, but he requires your 
attendance, and you must follow him. 

Tuesday, 14. The weather was clear, and the air 
sharp, when we embarked at half past four. Our 
course was South by West one mile and a half, 
South- West by South half a mile. South- West. 

* These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake Wini- 
pic, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation. 



154 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We here found it necessary to unload, and gum 
the canoe, in which operation we lost an hour ; 
when we proceeded on the last course one mile 
and a half. I now took a meridian altitude, which 
gave 56. 11. 19. North latitude, and continued 
to proceed West- South- West two miles and a 
half. Here the Bear River which is of a large ap- 
pearance, falls in from the East ; West three miles 
and an half. South- South- West one mile and an 
half, and South- West four miles and an half, 
when we encamped upon an island about seven in 
the evening. 

During the early part of the day, the current 
was not so strong as we had generally found it, but 
towards the evening it became very rapid, and 
was broken by numerous islands. We were gra- 
tified as usual, with the sight of animals. The 
land on the West side is very irregular, but has 
the appearance of being a good beaver country ; 
indeed we saw some of those animals in the river. 
Wood is in great plenty, and several rivulets ad- 
ded their streams to the main river. A goose was 
the only article of provision which we procured to 
day. Smoke was seen, but at a great distance be- 
fore us. 

Wednesday^ 15. The rain prevented us from 
continuing our route till past six in the morning, 
when our course was South -West by West three 
quarters of a mile ; at which time we passeda river 
on the left. West by South two miles and a half. 
The bank was steep, and the current strong. The 
last course continued one mile and a half, West- 
South- West two miles, where a river flowed in 
from the right. West by South one mile and a 
half, West-North-West one mile, and West by 
North two miles. Here the land takes the form of 
an high ridge, and cut our course, which was 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 155 

West for three miles, at right angles. We now 
completed the voyage of this day. 

In the preceding night the water rose upwards 
of two inches, and had risen in this proportion since 
our departure. The wind, which was West- South 
West, blew very hard throughout the day, and with 
the strength of the current, gready impeded our 
progress. The river, in this part of it, is full of 
islands; and the land, on the South or left side, is 
thick with wood. Several rivulets also fall in from 
that quarter. At the entrance of the last river which 
we passed, there was a quantity of wood, which had 
been cut down by axes, and some by the beaver. 
This fall, however, was not made, in the opinion 
of my people, by any of the Indians with whom 
we were acquainted. 

The land to the right is of a very irregular ele- 
vation and appearance, composed in some places of 
clay, and rocky cliifs, and others exhibiting stratas 
of red, green, and yellov/ colours. Some parts, 
indeed, offer a beautiful scenery, in some degree 
similar to that which we passed on the second day 
of our voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk 
and the buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers, 
and unmolested by the hunter. In an island which 
we passed, there was a large quantity of white birch, 
whose bark might be employed in the construction 
of canoes. 

Thursday^ 16. The weather being clear, we re- 
cmbarkedat four in the morning, and proceeded 
West by North three miles. Here the land again 
appeared asif it run across our course, and a consi- 
derable river discharged itself by various streams. 
According to the Rocky Mountain Indian, it is 
called the Sinew River. This spot would be an 
excellent situation for a fort or factory, as there is 
plenty of v/ood, and every reason to believe that 
the country abounds in beaver. As for the other 

p p 



156 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every 
direction the elk and the buffalo are seen in pos- 
session of the hills and the plains. Our course 
continued West-North- West three miles and a 
half. North West one mile and a half. South- West 
by West two miles; (the latitude was by observa- 
tion 56. 16. 54.) North, Westby North half a 
mile, West-North- West three quarters of a mile; 
a small river appearing on the right. North- West 
one mile and !a half. West by North half a mile, 
West by Southone mile and ahalf, West one mile; 
and at seven we formed our encampment. 

Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed 
two elks, and mortally wounded a buffalo, but we 
only took a part of the flesh of the former. The 
land above the spot where w^e encamped, spreads 
into an extensive plain, and stretches on to a very 
high ridge, which, in some parts, presents a face of 
rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and 
varied with the poplar and white birch tree. The 
country is so crowded with animals as to have the 
appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard, from 
the state of the ground, and the quantity of dung* 
which is scattered over it. The soil is black 
and light. We this day saw two grisly and hide- 
ous bears. 

Friday^ 17. It froze during the night, and the 
air was sharp in the morning, when we continued 
our course West-North- West three miles and a 
half, South West by South two miles and a half, 
South- West by West one mile and a half, West 
three quarters of a mile. West South- West one 
mile and a quarter, and South- West by South one 
mile a half. At two in the afternoon the rocky 
mountains appeared in sight, with their summits 
covered with snow, bearing South-West by South : 
they formed a very agreeable object to every per- 
son in the canoe, as we attained the view of them 



North-west continent of America. 157 

much sooner than we expected. A small river 
was seen on our right, and we continued our pro-- 
gress South- West by South six miles, when wc 
landed at seven, which was our usual hour of en- 
campment, 

Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side 
of the river, discharged his piece at a buffalo, when 
it burst near the muzzle, but without any mischiev- 
ous consequences. On the high grounds, which 
were on the opposite side of the river, we saw a 
buffalo tearing up and down with great fury, but 
could not discern the cause of his impetuous mo- 
tions ; my hunters conjectured that he had been 
wounded with an arrow by some of the natives. 
We ascended several rapids in the course of the 
day, and saw one bear. 

Saturday, 18. It again froze very hard during 
the night, and at four in the morning we conti- 
nued our voyage, but we had not proceeded two 
hundred yards, before an accident happened to the 
canoe, which did not, however, employ more than 
three quarters of an hour to complete the repair. 
We then steered South by West one mile and three 
quarters, South- West by South three miles, South- 
West by West one mile and a quarter. West by 
South three quarters of a mile. South- West half 
a mile, West by South one mile, South by West 
one mile and a half, South- South- West, where there 
is a small run of water from the right, three miles 
and a half, when the canoe struck on the stump of 
a tree, and unfortunately where the banks were so 
steep that there was no place to unload, except a 
small spot, on which we contrived to dispose the 
lading in the bow, Avhich lightened the canoe so as 
to raise the broken part of it above the surface of 
the water ; by which contrivance we reached a con- 
venient situation. It required, however, two hours 
to complete the repair, when tlie weather became 



158 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

dark and cloudy, with thunder, lightning, and 
rain ; we, however, continued the last course half 
a mile, and at six in the evening we were compel- 
led by the rain to land for the night. 

About n6on we had landed on an island where 
there were eight lodges of last year. The natives 
had prepared bark here for five canoes, and there 
is a road along the hills where they had passed. 
Branches were cut and broken along it ; and they 
had also stripped off the bark of the trees, to get 
the interior rind, which forms a part of their food. 

The current was very strong through the whole 
of the day, and the coming up along some of the 
banks was rendered very dangerous, from the con- 
tinual falling of large stones, from the upper parts 
of them. This place appears to be a particular 
pass for animals across the river, as there are paths 
leading to it on both sides, every ten yards. 

Tn the course of the day we saw a ground hog, 
and two cormorants. The earth also appeared in 
several places to have been turned up by the bears, 
in search of roots. 

Sunday, 19. It rained very hard in the early 
part of the night, but the weather became clear 
towards the morning, when we embarked at our 
usual hour. As the current threatened to be very 
strong, Mr. Mackay, the two hunters, and my- 
self, went on shore, in order to lighten the canoe, 
and ascended the hills, which are covered with cy- 
press, and but little encumbered with underwood. 
We found a beaten path, and before we had walked 
a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their 
young ones : but I would not suffer the Indians to 
fire on them, from an apprehension that the report 
of their fowling pieces would alarm the natives that 
might be in the neighbourhood ; for we were 
at this time so near the mountains, as to justify 
our expectation of seeing some of them. We, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 159 

however, sent our dog after the herd, and a calf 
was soon secured by him. While the young men 
were skinning the animal, we heard two reports of 
fire arms from the canoe, which we answered, as 
it was a signal for my return ; we then heard 
another, and immediately hastened down the hill, 
with our veal, through a very close wood. There 
we met one of the men, who informed us that the 
canoe was at a small distance below, at the foot of 
a very strong rapid, and that as several waterfalls 
appeared up the river, we should be obliged to un- 
load and carry. I accordingly hastened to the 
canoe, and was greatly displeased that so much 
time had been lost, as I had given previous direc- 
tions that the river should be followed as long as it 
was practicable. The last Indians whom we saw 
had informed us that at the first mountain there was 
a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and 
falls, which they never attempted to ascend ; and 
where they always passed over land the length of a 
day's march. My men imagined that the carrying 
place was at a small distance below us, as a path 
appeared to ascend a hill, where there were several 
lodges, of the last year's construction. The account 
which had been given me of the rapids, was per- 
fectly correct: though by crossing to the other side, 
I must acknowledge with some risk, in such a 
heavy laden canoe, the river appeared to me to be 
practicable, as far as we could see : the traverse, 
therefore, was attempted, and proved successful. 
We now towed the canoe along an island, and pro- 
ceeded without any considerable difficulty, till we 
reached the extremity of it, when the line could be 
no longer employed ; and in endeavouring to clear 
the point of the island, the canoe was driven with 
such violence on a stony shore, as to receive con- 
siderable injury. We now employed every exer- 
tion in our power to repair the breach that had been 



160 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

made, as well as to dry such articles of our loading 
as more immediately required it : we then trans- 
ported the whole across the point, when we reload- 
ed, and continued our course about three quarters 
of a mile. We could now proceed no furdier on 
this side of the water, and the traverse was rendered 
extremely dangerous, not onl}^ from the strength 
of the current, but by the cascades just below us, 
which, if we had got among them, would have in- 
volved us and the canoe in one common destruc- 
tion. We had no other alternative than to rettirn 
by the same cotu'se we came, or to hazard the tra- 
verse, the river on this side being bounded by a 
range of steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which 
the current was driven on with resistless impetuo- 
sity from the cascades. Here are several islands of 
solid rock, covered with a small portion of verdure, 
which have been worn away by the constant force 
of the current, and occasionally, as I presume, of 
ice, at the water's edge, so as to be reduced in that 
part to one fourth the extent of the upper surface ; 
presenting, as it were, so many large tables, each of 
which was supported by a pedestal of a more cir- 
cumscribed projection. They are very elevated 
for such a situation, and afford an asylum for geese, 
which were at this time breeding on them. By 
crossing from one to the other of these islands, we 
came at length to the main traverse, on which we 
ventured, and were successful in our passage. 
Mr. Mackay, and the Indians, who observed our 
manoeuvres from the.top of a rock, were in continual 
alarm for our safety, with v/hich their own, indeed, 
may be said to have been nearly connected : howe- 
ver, the dangers that we encountered were very 
much augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe. 
When we had effected our passage, the current 
on the West side was almost equally violent with 
that from v/hence Vv e had just escaped, but the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 161 

craggy bank being somewhat lower, we were ena- 
bled, with a line of sixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, 
till we came to the foot of the most rapid cascade 
we had hitherto seen. Here we unloaded, and 
carried every thing over a rocky point of an hun- 
dred and twenty paces. When the canoe was re- 
loaded, I, with those of my people who v>^ere not 
immediately employed, ascended the bank, which 
was there, and indeed, as far as we could see, com- 
posed of clay, stone, and a yellow gravel. My 
present situation was so elevated, that the men, 
who were coming up a strong point, could not hear 
me, though I called to them with the utmost 
strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part 
of its lading. And here I could not but reflect, 
with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my enter- 
prize ; one false step of those who were attached 
to the line, or the breaking of the line itself, would 
have at once consigned the canoe, and every thing 
it contained, to instant destruction : it however, 
ascended the rapid in perfect security, but new 
dangers immediately presented themselves, for 
stones, both small and great, were continually 
rolling from the bank, so as to render the situation 
of those who were dragging the canoe beneath it 
extremely perilous ; besides, they were at every 
step in danger, from the steepness of the ground^ 
of falling into the water : nor was my solicitude 
diminished by my being necessarily removed at 
times from the sight of them. 

In our passage through the woods, we came to 
an inclosure, which had been formed by the na- 
tives for the purpose of setting snares for the elk, 
and of which we could not discover the extent. 
After we had travelled for some hours through the 
forest, which consisted of the spruce, birch, and 
the largest poplars I had ever seen, v/e sunk down 
upon the river, where the bank is low, and near 



162 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the foot of a mountain ; between which, and a 
high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about 
one hundred yards broad ; though, at a small dis- 
tance below, it rushes on between perpendicular 
rocks, where it is not much more than half that 
breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, ex- 
pecting the arrival of the canoe, and after some 
time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians 
down the river in search of it, and with the other 
I went up to it to examine what we might expect 
in that quarter. In about a mile and a half I came 
to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty 
precipices, and presented, in the form of rapids 
and cascades, a succession of difficulties to our na- 
vigation. As the canoe did not come in sight, we 
returned, and from the place where I had separa- 
ted with Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying 
it over a small rocky point. We met them at the 
entrance of the narrow channel already mentioned; 
their difficulties had been great indeed, and the ca- 
noe had been broken, but they had persevered 
with success, and having passed the carrying-place, 
we proceeded with the line as far as I had already 
been, when we crossed over and encamped on the 
opposite beach ; but there was no wood on this 
side of the water, as the adjacent country had been 
entirely over-run by fire. We saw several elks 
feeding on the edge of the opposite precipice, 
which was upwards of three hundred feet high. 

Our course to-day was about South-South- West 
two miles and a half, South- West half a mile, 
South- West by South one mile and a half, South 
by West half a mile. South- West half a mile, and 
West one mile and a half. There was a shower 
of hail, and some rain from flying clouds. I now 
dispatched a man with an Indian to visit the rapids 
above, when the latter soon left him to pursue a 
beaver, which was seen in the shallow water on 



North-west continent of America, les 

the inside of a stony island; and though Mr. 
Mackay, and the other Indian joined him, the ani- 
mal at length escaped from their pursuit. Seve- 
ral others \vtTe: seen in the course of the day, which 
I by no means expected, as the banks are almost 
every where so much elevated above the channel 
of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night 
drew on, the man returned with an account that it 
would be impracticable to pass several points, as 
well as the super-impending promontories. 

Monday^ 20. The weather was clear with a 
sharp air, and we renewed our voyage at a quar- 
ter past four, on a course South- West by West 
three quarters of a mile. We now, with infinite 
difficulty passed along the foot of a rock, which, 
fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we were 
enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twen- 
ty feet ; from which, at the hazard of my life, I 
leaped on a small rock below, where I received 
those who followed me on my shoulders. In this 
manner four of us passed and dragged up the ca- 
noe, in which attempt we broke her. Very luck- 
ily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, 
without w^hich we could not have made a fire, as 
no wood was to be procured within a mile of the 
place. When the canoe was repaired, we conti- 
nued towing it along the rocks to the next point, 
when we embarked, as we could not at present 
make any further use of the line, but got along 
the rocks of a round high island of stone, till we 
came to a small sandy bay. As we had already 
damaged the canoe, and had every reason to think 
that she soon would risk much greater injury, it 
became necessary for us to supply ourselves with 
bark, as our provision of that material article was 
almost exhausted ; two men w^ere accordingly sent 
to procure it, who soon returned with the necessa- 
ry store. 



164 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on 
shore, since we broke the canoe, were prevented 
from coming to us by the rugged and impassable 
state of the ground. We, therefore, again resum- 
ed our course with the assistance of poles, with 
which we pushed onwards till we came beneath a 
precipice, where we could not find any bottom ; 
so that we were again obliged to have recourse to 
the line, the management of which was rendered 
not only difficult but dangerous, as the men em- 
ployed in towing were under the necessity of pass- 
ing on the outside of trees that grew on the edge 
of the precipice. We, however, surmounted 
this difficulty, as we had done many others, and 
the people who had been walking over land now 
joined us. They also had met with their obsta- 
cles in passing the mountain. 

It now became necessary for us to make a tra- 
verse, where the water was so rapid, that some of 
the people stripped themselves to their shirts that 
they might be the better prepared for swimming, 
in case any accident happened to the canoe, which 
thev seriously apprehended; but we succeeded 
in our attempt without any other inconvenience, 
except that of taking in water. We now came to 
a cascade, when it was thought necessary to take 
out part of the lading. At noon we stopped to take 
an altitude, opposite to a small river that flowed 
in from the left : while I was thus engaged, the 
men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as the 
current was not very strong, they had been negli- 
gent in performing this office ; it proved however, 
sufficiently powerful to sheer her off, and if it had 
not happened that one of the men, from absolute 
fatigue had remained and held the end of the line, 
we should have been deprived of every means of 
prosecuting our voyage, as Vvcll as of present sub- 
sistence. But notwithstanding the state of my 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 165 

mind on such an alarming circumstance, and an 
intervening cloud that interrupted me, the altitude 
which I took has been since proved to be tolerably 
correct, and gave 56. North latitude. Our last 
course was South- South- West two miles and a 
quarter. 

We now continued our toilsome and perilous 
progress with the line West by North, and as we 
proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so 
that in the distance of two miles we were obliged 
to unload four times, and carry every thing but the 
canoe : indeed, in many places, it was with the ut- 
most difficulty that we could prevent her from being 
dashed to pieces against the rocks by the violence of 
the eddies. At five we had proceeded to where the ri- 
ver was one continued rapid. Here we again took eve- 
ry thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up with 
the line, though the rocks were so shelving as greatly 
to increase the toil and hazard of that operation. At 
length, however, the agitation of the water was so 
great, that a wave striking on the bow of the canoe 
broke the line, and filled us with inexpressible dis- 
may, as it appeared impossible that the vessel could 
escape from being dashed to pieces, and those who 
were in her from perishing. Another wave, how- 
ever, more propitious than the former, drove her 
out of the tumbling water, so that the men were 
enabled to bring her ashore, and though she had 
been carried over rocks by these swells which left 
them naked a moment after, the canoe had received 
no material injury. The men were, however, in 
such a state from their late alarm, that it would not 
only have been unavailing but imprudent to have 
proposed any further progress at present, particu- 
larly as the river above us, as far as we could see, 
was one white sheet of foaming water. 



166 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER IV. 

Continuation of difficulties and dangers. Dis- 
contents among the people. State of the river 
and its banks. Volcanic chasms in the earth. 
Dispatch various persons to discover ivays 
across the mountain. Obstacles present them- 
selves on all sides. Preparations made to at- 
tempt the mountain. Account of the ascent 
voith the canoe and baggage. The trees that 
are found there. Arrive at, the river. Ex- 
traordinary circumstances of it. Curious 
hollows in the rocks. Prepare the canoe. Re- 
new our progress up the river. The state of it. 
Leave some tokens of amity for the natives. 
The weather very cold^ Lost a book of my ob- 
servations for several days. Continue to pro- 
ceed up the river. Send a letter down the cur- 
rent in a rum-keg. Came to the forks^ and 
proceed up the Eastern branch. Circumstan- 
ces of it. 

May, 1793. THAT the discouragements, dif- 
ficulties, and dangers, which had hitherto attended 
the progress of our enterprize, should have excited 
a wish in several of those who were engaged in it 
to discontinue the pursuit, might be naturally ex- 
pected; and indeed it began to be muttered on all 
sides that there was no alternative but to return. 

Instead of paying any attention to these mur- 
murs, I desired those who had uttered them to ex- 
ert themselves in gaining an ascent of the hill, and 
encamp there for the night. In the mean time I 
set off with one of the Indians, and though I con- 
tinued my examination of the river almost as long 
as there was any light to assist me, I could see no 
end of the rapids and cascades : I was, therefore, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 167 

perfectly satisfied, that it would be impracticable 
to proceed any further by water. We returned 
from this reconnoitring excursion very much fa- 
tigued, with our shoes worn out and wounded 
feet ; when I found that, by felling trees on the de- 
clivity of the first hill, my people had contrived to 
ascend it. 

From the place where I had taken the altitude at 
noon, to the place where we made our landing, the 
river is not more than fifty yards wide, and flows 
between stupendous rocks, from whence huge 
fragments sometimes tumble down, and falling 
from such a height, dash into small stones, with 
sharp points, and form the beach between the rocky 
projections. Along the face of some of these pre- 
cipices, there appears a stratum of a bituminous 
substance which resembles coal ; though while 
some of the pieces of it appeared to be excellent 
fuel, others resisted, for a considerable time, the 
action of fire, and did not emit the least flame. The 
whole of this day's course would have been alto- 
gether impracticable, if the water had been higher, 
which must be the case at certain seasons. V/e 
saw also several encampments of the Knisteneaux 
along the river, which must have been formed by 
them on their war excursions : a decided proof of 
the savage, blood-thirsty disposition of that peo- 
ple ; as nothing less than such a spirit could im- 
pel them to encounter the difficulties of this al- 
most inaccessible country, whose natives are 
equally unoffending and defenceless. 

Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over 
the mountains, he observed several chasms in the 
earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffiised 
a strong sulphureous stench. I should certainly 
have visited this phenomenon, if I had been suf- 
ficiently qualified as a naturalist, to have offered 
scientific conjectures or observations thereon. 



168 JOURNAL Of A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Tuesday^ 21. It rained in the morning, and 
did not cease till about eight, and as the men had 
been very fatigued and disheartened, I suffered 
them to continue their rest till that hour. Such 
was the state of the river, as I have already obser- 
ved, that no alternative was left us ; nor did any 
means of proceeding present themselves to us, but 
the passage of the mountain over which we were 
to carry the canoe as well as the baggage. As this 
was a very alarming enterprize, I dispatched Mr. 
Mackay with three men and the two Indians to 
proceed in a strait course from the top of the moun- 
tain, and to keep the line of the river till they 
should find it navigable. If it should be their opi- 
nion, that there was no practicable passage in that 
direction, two of them were instructed to return 
in order to make their report ; while the others 
were to go in search of the Indian carrying-place. 
While they were engaged in this excursion, the 
people who remained with me were employed in 
gumming the canoe, and making handles for the 
axes. At noon I got an altitude, which made our 
latitude 56. 0. 8. At three o'clock had time, 
when my watch was slow 1. 31. 52. apparent 
time. 

At sun-set, Mr. Mackay returned with one of 
the men, and in about two hours was followed by 
the others. They had penetrated thick woods, 
ascended hills and sunk into vallies, till they got 
beyond the rapids, which, according to their calcu- 
lation, was a distance of three leagues. The two 
parties returned by different routes, but they both 
agreed, that with all its difficulties, and they were 
of a very alarming nature, the outward course was 
that which must be preferred. Unpromising, how- 
ever, as the account of their expedition appeared, 
it did not sink them into a state of discouragement ; 
and a kettle of wild rice, sweetened with sugar, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. I6# 

which had been prepared for their return, with 
their usual regale of rum, soon renewed that cou- 
rage which disdained all obstacles that threatened 
our progress : and they went to rest, with a full 
determination to surmount them on the morrow. 
I sat up, in the hope of getting an observation of 
Jupiter and his first satellite, but the cloudy wea- 
ther prevented my obtaining it. 

Wednesday^ 22. At break of day we entered on 
the extraordinary journey which was to occupy the 
remaining part of it. The men began, without 
delay, to cut a road up the mountain, and as the 
trees were but of small growth, I ordered them to 
fell those which they found convenient, in such a 
manner, that they might fall parallel with the road, 
but, at the same time, not separate them entirely 
from the stumps, so that they might form a kind of 
railing on either side. The baggage was now 
brought from the waterside to our encampment. 
This was, likewise, from the steep shelving of the 
rocks, a very perilous undertaking, as one false 
step of any of the people employed in it, would 
have been instantly followed by falling headlong 
into the water. When this important object was 
attained, the whole of the party proceeded with no 
small degree of apprehension, to fetch the canoe, 
which, in a short time, was also brought to the 
encampment ; and, as soon as we had recovered 
from our fatigue, we advanced with it up the moun- 
tain, having the line doubled and fastened succes- 
sively as we went on to the stumps ; while a man 
at the end of it, hauled it round a tree, holding it 
on and shifting it as we proceeded ; so that we 
may be said, with strict truth, to have warped the 
canoe up the mountain ; indeed by a general and 
most laborious exertion, we got every thing to the 
summit by two in the afternoon. At noon, the 
latitude was ^^. 0. 47. North. At five, I sent the 



iro JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

men to cut the road onwards, which they eiFected 
for about a mile, when they returned. 

The weather was cloudy at intervals, with show- 
ers and thunder. At about ten, I observed an 
emersion of Jupiter's second satellite ; time by the 
achrometer 8. 32. 20. by which I found the longi- 
tude to be 120. 29. 30. West from Greenwich. 

Thursday^ 23. The weather was clear at four 
this morning, when the men began to carry. I 
joined Mr. Mackay and the two Indians in the 
labour of cutting a road. The ground continued 
rising gently till noon, when it began to decline ; 
but though on such an elevated situation, we could 
see but little, as mountains of a still higher eleva- 
vation, and covered with snow, were seen far above 
us in every direction. In the afternoon the ground 
became very uneven ; hills and deep defiles alter- 
nately presented themselves to us. Our progress, 
however, exceeded my expectation, and it was not 
till four in the afternoon that the carriers overtook 
us; At five, in a state of fatigue that may be more 
readily conceived than expressed, we encaiuped 
near a rivulet or spring that issued from beneath 
a large mass of ice and snow. 

Our toilsome journey of this day I compute at 
about three miles; along the first of which the land 
is covered with plenty of wood, consisting of large 
trees, encumbered with little underwood, through 
which it was by no means difficult to open a road, 
by following a well-beaten elk path: for the two 
succeeding miles we found the country overspread 
with the trunks of trees, laid low by fire some 
years ago ; among which large copses had sprung 
up of a close growth, and intermixed wiih briars, 
so as to render the passage through them painful 
and tedious. The soil in the woods is light and 
of a dusky colour ; that in the burned country is a 
mixture of sand and clay with small stones. The 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 171 

trees are spruce, red-pine, cypress, poplar, white 
birch, willow, alder, arrow-wood, red- vood, hard, 
service-tree, bois-picant, &c. I never saw any 
of the last kind before. It rises to about nine feet 
in height, grows in joints without branches, and is 
tufted at the extremity. The stem is of an equal 
size from the bottom to the top, and does not ex- 
ceed an inch in diameter; it is covered with small 
prickles, which caught our trowsers, and working 
through them, sometimes found their way to the 
flesh. The shrubs are, the gooseberry, the currant, 
and several kinds of briars. 

Friday^ 24. We continued our very laborious 
journey, which led us down some steep hills, and 
through a wood of tall pines. After much toil and 
trouble in bearing the canoe through the difficult 
passages which we encountered, at four in the after- 
noon we arrived at the river, some hundred 
yards above the rapids or falls, with all our bag- 
gage. I compute the distance of this day's pro- 
gress to be about four miles ; indeed I should have 
measured the whole of the way, if I had not been 
obliged to engage personally in the labour of mak- 
ing the road. But after all, the Indian carrying- 
way, whatever may be its length, and I think it 
cannot exceed tQw miles, will always be found more 
safe and expeditious than the passage which our 
toil and perseverance formed and surmounted. 

Those of my people who visited this place on 
the 21st, were of opinion that the water had risen 
very much since that time. About two hundred 
yards below us, the stream rushed with an asto- 
nishing but silent velocity, between perpendicular 
rocks, which are not more than thirty-five yards 
asunder : when the water is high, it rims over those 
rocks, in a channel three times that breadth, where 
it is bounded by far more elevated precipices. In 
the former are deep round holes, some of which 

R r 



172 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

are full of water, while others are empty, in w^hose 
bottom are small round stones, as smooth as mar- 
ble. Some of these natural cylinders would con- 
tain two hundred gallons. At a small distance 
below the first of these rocks, the channel widens 
in a kind of zig-zag progression ; and it was really 
awful to behold with what infinite force the water 
drives against the rocks on one side, and with what 
impetuous strength it is repelled to the other : it 
then falls back, as it were, into a more strait but 
rugged passage, over which it is tossed in high, 
foaming, half-formed billows, as far as the eye 
could follow it. 

The young men informed me that this was the 
place where their relations had told me that I 
should meet with a fall equal to that of Niagara: to 
exculpate them, however, from their apparent mis- 
information, they declared that their friends were 
not accustomed to utter falsehoods, and that the 
fall had probably been destroyed by the force of 
the water. It is, however, very evident that those 
people had not been here, or did not adhere to the 
truth. By the number of trees which appeared 
to have been felled with axes, we discovered that 
the Knisteneaux, or some tribes who are known 
to employ that instrument, had passed this way. 
We passed through a snare enclosure, but saw no 
animals, though the country was very much inter- 
sected b}^ their tracks. 

Saturday, 25. It rained throughout the night, 
and till twelve this day ; while the business of pre- 
paring great and small poles, and putting the canoe 
in order, &:c. caused us to remain here till five in 
the afternoon. I now attached a knife, with a 
steel, flint, beads, and other trifling articles to a 
pole, which I erected, and left as a token of amity 
to the natives. When I was making this arrange- 
ment, one of my attendants, whom I have already 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 173 

described under the title of the Cancre, added to 
my assortment, a small round piece of green wood, 
chewed at one end in the form of a brush, which 
the Indians use to pick the marrow out of bones. 
This he informed me was an emblem of a country 
abounding in animals. The ^vater had risen during 
our stay here one foot and a half perpendicular 
height. 

We now embarked, and our course was North- 
West one mile and three quarters. There were 
mountains on all sides of us, which were covered 
with snow ; one in particular, on the South side 
of the river, rose to a great height. We conti- 
nued to proceed West three quarters of a mile, 
North- West one mile, and West- South -West a 
quarter of a mile, when we encamped for the night. 
The Cancre killed a small elk. 

Sunday^ 26. The weather was clear and sharp, 
and between three and four in the morning we re- 
newed our voyage, our first course being West 
by South three miles and a half, when the men 
complained of the cold in their fingers, as they were 
obliged to push on tlie canoe with the poles. Here 
a small river flowed in from the North. We now 
continued to steer West-South-West a quarter of 
a mile, West-North-West a mile and a half, and 
West two miles, when we found ourselves on a 
parallel with a chain of mountains on both sides the 
river, running South and North. The river, both 
yesterday and the early part of to-day, was from 
four to eight hundred yards wide, and full of isl- 
ands, but was at this time diminished to about two 
hundred yards broad, and free from islands, wdth a 
smooth but strong current. Our next course was 
South- W^est two miles, when we encountered a 
rapid, and saw an encampment of the Knisteneaux. 
We now proceeded North- West by West one 
mile, among islands, South- West by West three 



\74 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

quarters of a mile, South- South- East one mile, 
veered to South- West through islands three miles 
and a half, and South by East half a mile. Here 
a river poured in on the left, which was the most 
considerable that we had seen since we had passed 
the mountain. At seven in the evening we landed 
and encamped. 

Though the sun had shone upon us throughout 
the day, the air was so cold that the men, though 
actively employed, could not resist it without the 
aid of their blanket coats. This circumstance 
might, in some degree, be expected from the sur- 
rounding mountains, which were covered with ice 
and snow ; but as they are not so high as to pro- 
duce the extreme coid which we suffered, it must 
be more particularly attributed to the high situa- 
tion of the country itself, rather than to the local 
elevation of the mountains, the greatest height of 
which does not exceed fifteen hundred feet; though 
in general they do not rise to half that altitude. 

But as I had not been able to take an exact 
measurement, I do not presume upon the accuracy 
of my conjecture. Towards the bottom of these 
heights, which were clear of snow, the trees were 
putting forth their leaves, while those in their mid- 
dle region still retained all the characteristics of 
winter, and on their upper parts there was little or 
no wood. 

Monday, 27. ^ The weather was clear, and we 
continued our voyage at the usual hour, when we 
successively found several rapids and points to im- 
pede our progress. At noon our latitude was 56^ 
5.54. North. The Indians killed a stag ; and one 

* From this day to the 4th of June the courses of my voyage are omit- 
ted, as I lorA- the book that contaiwed them. I was in the habit of some- 
times indulging myself with a short doze in the canoe, and I imagine 
that the branches of the trees brushed my book from me, when I Avas 
in such a situation, which renders the account of these few days less 
distinct than usual. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 175 

of the men who went to fetch it was very much en- 
dangered by the rolling down of a large stone from 
the heights above him. 

Tuesday^ 28. The day was very cloudy. The 
mountains on both sides of the river seemed to 
have sunk, in their elevation, during the voyage 
of yesterday. To-day they resumed their former 
altitude, and run so close on either side of the 
channel, that all view was excluded of every thing 
but themselves. This part of the current was not 
broken by islands ; but in the afternoon we ap- 
proached some cascades, which obliged us to car- 
ry our canoe and its lading for several hundred 
yards. Here we observed an encampment of the 
natives, though some time had elapsed since it had 
been inhabited. The greater part of the day was 
divided between heavy showers and small rain ; 
and we took our station on the shore about six in 
the evening, about three miles above the last ra- 
pid. 

Wednesday^ 29. The rain was so violent through- 
out the whole of this day, that we did not venture 
to proceed. As w^e had almost expended the con- 
tents of a rum-keg, and this being a day which 
allowed of no active employment, I amused my- 
self with the experiment of enclosing a letter in it, 
and dispatching it down the stream to take its fate. 
I accordingly introduced a written account of all 
our hardships, 8icc. carefully enclosed in bark, into 
the small barrel by the bung-hole, which being 
carefully secured, I consigned this epistolatory 
cargo to the mercy of the current. 

Thursday^ 30. We were alarmed this morning 
at break of day, by the continual barking of our 
dog, who never ceased from running backwards 
and forwards in the rear of our situation : when, 
however, the day advanced, we discovered the 
cause of our alarm to proceed from a wolf, who 



176 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

was parading a ridge a few yards behind us, and 
had been most probably allured by the scent of our 
small portion of fresh meat. The weather was 
cloudy, but it did not prevent us from renewing 
our progress at a very early hour. A considera- 
ble river appeared from the left, and we continued 
our course till seven in the evening, when we land- 
ed at night where there was an Indian encamp- 
ment. 

Friday, 31. The morning was clear and cold, 
and the current very powerful. On crossing the 
mouth of a river that flowed in from the right of us, 
we were very much endangered ; indeed all the 
rivers which I have lately seen, appear to overflow 
their natural limits, as it may be supposed, from 
the melting of the mountain snow. The water is 
almost white, the bed of tlie river being of lime- 
stone. The mountains are one solid mass of the 
same materials, but without the least shade of trees, 
or decoration of foliage. At nine the men were so 
cold that we landed, in order to kindle a fire, which 
was considered as a very uncommon circumstance 
at this season ; a small quantity of rum, however, 
served as an adequate substitute ; and the current 
being so smooth as to admit of the use of paddles, 
I encouraged them to proceed without any furdier 
delay. In a short time an extensive view opened 
upon us, displaying a beautiful sheet of water, that 
was heightened by the calmness of the weather, 
and a splendid sun. Here the mountains which 
were covered with wood, opened on either side, so 
that vve entertained the hope of soon leaving them 
behind us. When we had got to the termination 
of this prospect, the river was barred with rocks, 
forming cascades and small islands. To proceed 
onwards, we were under the necessity of clearing 
a narrow passage of the drift wood, on the left 
shore. Here the view convinced us that our late 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 177 

hopes were without foundation, as there appeared 
a ridge or chain of mountains, running South and 
North as far as the eye could reach. 

On advancing two or three miles, w^e arrived at 
the fork, one branch running about West-North- 
West, and the other South- South-East. If I had 
been governed by my own judgment, I should 
have taken the former, as it appeared to me to be 
the most likely to bring us nearest to the part 
where I wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but 
the old man, whom I have already mentioned as 
having been frequently on war expeditions in this 
country, had warned me not, on any account, to 
follow it, as it was soon lost in various branches 
among the mountains, and that there was no great 
river that ran in any direction near it ; but by fol- 
lowing the latter, he said, we should arrive at a 
carrying-place to another large river, that did not 
exceed a day's march, where the inhabitants build 
houses, and live upon islands. There was so much 
apparent truth in the old man's narrative, that I 
determined to be governed by it ; for I did not 
entertain the least doubt, if I could get into the 
other river, that I should reach the ocean. 

I accordingly ordered my steersman to proceed 
at once to the East branch, which appeared to be 
more rapid than the other, though it did not pos- 
sess an equal breadth. These circumstances dis- 
posed my men and Indians, the latter in particular 
being very tired of the voyage, to express their 
wishes that I should take the Western branch, 
especially when they perceived the difficulty of 
stemming the current, in the direction on which I 
had determined. Indeed the rush of water was so 
powerful, that we were the greatest part of the af- 
ternoon in getting two or three miles — a very tar- 
dy and mortifying progress, and which, with the 
voyage, was openly execrated by many of those 



178 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

who were engaged in it : and the inexpressible 
toil these people had endured, as well as the dan- 
gers they had encountered, required some degree 
of consideration ; I therefore employed those argu- 
ments which were the best calculated to calm their 
immediate discontents, as well as to encourage 
their future hopes, though, at the same time, I de- 
livered my sentiments in such a manner as to con- 
vince them that I was determined to proceed. 

On the 1st of June we embarked at sun-rise, 
and towards noon the current began to slacken ; 
we then put to shore, in order to gum the canoe, 
when a meridian altitude gave me 55, 42. 16. 
North latitude. We then continued our course, 
and towards the evening the current began to re- 
cover its former strength. Mr. Mackay and the 
Indians had already disembarked, to walk and 
lighten the boat. At sun- set we encamped on a 
point, being the first dry land which had been 
found on this side the river, that was fit for our 
purpose, since our people went on shore. In the 
morning we passed a large rapid river, that flowed 
in from the right. 

In no part of the North- West did I see so much 
beaver-work, within an equal distance, as in the 
course of this day. In some places they had cut 
down several acres of large poplars ; and we saw 
also a great number of these active and sagacious 
animals. The time which these wonderful crea- 
tures allot for their labours, whether in erecting 
their curious habitations, or providing food, is the 
whole of the interval between the setting and the 
rising sun. 

Towards the dusky part of the evening we 
heard several discharges from the fowling pieces 
of our people, vv'hich we answered, to inform them 
of our situation ; and some time after it was dark, 
they arrived in an equal state of fatigue and alarm ? 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 179 

tliey were also obliged to swim across a channel in 
order to get to us, as we were situated on an island, 
though we were ignorant of the circumstance, till 
they came to inform us. One of the Indians was 
positive that he heard the discharge of fire-arms 
above our encampment; and on comparing the 
number of our discharges with theirs, there ap- 
peared to be some foundation for his alarm, as we 
imagined that we had heard two reports more than 
they acknowledged ; and in their turn, they declar- 
ed that they had heard twice the number of those 
which we knew had proceeded from us. The In- 
dians were therefore certain, that the Knisteneaux 
must be in our vicinity, on a war expedition, and 
consequently, if they were numerous, we should 
have had no reason to expect the least mercy from 
them in this distant country. Though I did not 
believe that circumstance, or that any of the natives 
could be in possession of fire-arms, I thought it 
right, at all events, we should be prepared. Our 
fusees were, therefore, primed and loaded, and 
having extinguished our fire, each of us took his 
station at the foot of a tree, where we passed an 
uneasy and restless night. 

The succeeding morning being clear and plea- 
sant, we proceeded at an early hour against a rapid 
current, '-intersected by islands. About eight we 
passed two large trees, whose roots having been 
undermined by the current, had recently fallen 
into the river ; and, in my opinion, the crash of 
their fall had occasioned the noise which caused 
our late alarm. In this manner the water ravages 
the islands in these rivers, and by driving down 
great quantities of wood, forms the foundations 
of others. The men were ;so oppressed with fa- 
tigue, that it was necessary they should encamp 
at six in the afternoon. We, therefore, landed on 
a sandy island, which is a very uncommon object, 

s s 



rso JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

as the greater part of the islands consist of a bot- 
tom of round stones and gravel, covered from three 
to ten feet with mud and old drift-wood. Beaver- 
work was as frequently seen as on the preceding 
day. 

On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with 
the rising sun. At noon I obtained a meridian 
altitude, which gave 55. 22. 3. North latitude. I 
also took time, and the watch was slow 1. 30. 14. 
apparent time. According to my calculation, this 
place is about twenty-five miles South- East of the 
fork*. 

* I shall now proceed with my usual regularity, which, as I have al- 
ready mentioned, has been, for some days, suspended, from the loss of my 
book of observation. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. Ul 



CHAPTER V, 

Contifiue our inoyage. He amy fog. The water ri- 
ses. Successio7i of courses. Progressive ac- 
count of this branch. League the canoe to pro- 
ceed^ and ascend a hill to reconnoitre. Climb 
a tree to extend my view of the country. Return 
to the River. The canoe not arrived. Go in 
search of it. Extreme heat^ musquitoes^ £s?c. 
Increasing anxiety^ respecting the canoe. It 
at length appears. Violent storm. Circum- 
stances of our progress. Forced to haul the 
canoe up the sream by the branches of trees. 
Succession of courses. Wild parsnips along 
the river. Expect to meet with natives. 
Courses continued. Fall in with some natives. 
Our intercourse voith them. Account of their 
dress, arms, utensils, and manners, ^c. New 
discouragements and difficulties present them- 
selves. 

June 4, 1793. 

WE embarked this morning at four in a very 
heavy fog. The water had been continually rising, 
and, in many places, overflowed its banks. The 
current also was so strong, that our progress was 
very tedious, and required the most laborious ex- 
ertions. Our course was this day. South- South- 
East one mile. South- South- West half a mile, 
South- East three quarters of a mile. North- East 
by East three quarters of a mile, South-East half 
a mile, South-East by South one mile, South- 
South- East one mile and three quarters, South-East 
by South half a mile. East by South a quarter of a 
mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, North- 
East by East half a mile. East by North a quarter 
of a mile, South-East half a mile, South-East by 



182 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

South a quarter of a mile, South-East by East half 
a mile, North-East by East half a mile, North- 
North- East three quarters of a mile, to South by 
East one mile and a half. We could not find a 
place fit for an encampment, till nine at night, 
when we landed on a bank of gravel, of which lit- 
tle more appeared above water than the spot wc 
occupied. 

Wednesday^ 5. This morning we found our 
canoe and baggage in the water, which had conti- 
nued rising during the night. We then gummed 
the canoe, as we arrived at too late an hour to per- 
form that operation on the preceding evening. 
This necessary business being completed, we tra- 
versed to the North shore, where I disembarked 
with Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, in order to as- 
cend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of obtain- 
ing a view of the interior part of the country. I 
directed my people to proceed with all possible 
diligence, and that, if they met with any accident, 
or found my return necessary, they should fire two 
guns. They also understood, that when they should 
hear the same signal from me, they were to an- 
swer, and wait for me, if I were behind them. 

When we had ascended to the summit of the 
hill, we found that it extended onwards in an even, 
level country; so that, encumbered as we were, 
with the thick wood, no distant view could be ob- 
tained ; I therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from 
whose top I discerned on the right a ridge of moun- 
tains covered with snow, bearing about North- 
West ; from thence another ridge of high land, 
whereon no snow was visible, stretched towards 
the South : between which and the snowy hills on 
the East side, there appeared to be an opening, 
which we determined to be the course of the river. 

Having obtained all the satisfaction that the 
nature of the place would admit, we proceeded 
forward to overtake the canoe, and after a warm 



NORTH>WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, isn 

walk came down upon the river, when we dis- 
charged our pieces twice, but received no answer- 
ing signal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was 
before us, while the Indians entertained an opposite 
notion. I, however, crossed another point of land, 
and came again to the waterside about ten. Here 
we had a long view of the river, vvhich circum- 
stance excited in my mind, some doubts of my 
former sentiments. We repeated our signals, but 
without any retiu"n ; and as every moment now 
increased my anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one 
of the Indians at this spot to make a large fire, 
and send branches adrift down the current as no- 
tices of our situation, if the canoe was behind us ; 
and proceeded with the other Indian across a very 
long point, where the river makes a considerable 
bend, in order that I might be satisfied if the ca- 
noe was a-head. Having been accustomed, for 
the last fortnight, to very cold weather, I found the 
heat of this day almost insupportable, as our way lay 
over a dry sand, which was relieved by noshade, but 
such as a few scattered cypresses could ailbrd us. 
About twelve, Vv^e arrived once more at the river, 
and the discharge of our pieces was as unsuccess- 
ful as it had hitherto been. The v/ater rushed 
before us with uncommon velocity ; and we also 
tried the experiment of sending fresh branches 
down it. To add to the disagreeableness of our 
situation, the gnats and musquitoes appeared in 
swarms to torment us. When we returned to our 
companions, we found that they had not been con- 
tented vnth remaining in the position where I had 
left them, but had been three or four miles down 
the river, but were come back to their station, 
without having made any discovery of the people 
on the water. 

Various very unpleasing conjectures at once 
perplexed and distressed us : the Indians, who are 



184 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THT!: 

inclined to magnify evils of any and every kind, 
had at once consigned the canoe and every one on 
board it to the bottom ; and were already settling 
a plan to return upon a raft, as well as calculating 
the number of nights that would be required to 
reach their home. As for myself, it will be easily 
believed, that my mind was in a state of extreme 
agitation, and the imprudence of my conduct in 
leaving the people, in such a situation of danger 
and toilsome exertion added a very painful mortifi- 
cation to the severe apprehensions I already suf- 
fered : it was an act of indiscretion which might 
have put an end to the voyage that I had so much 
at heart, and compelled me at length to submit to 
the scheme which my hunters had already formed 
for our return. 

At half past six in the evening, Mr. Mackay and 
the Cancre set oifto proceed down the river, as far 
they could before the night came on, and to con- 
tinue their journey in the morning to the place 
where we had encamped the preceding evening. I 
also proposed to make my excursion upwards ; 
and, if we both failed of success in meeting the 
canoe, it was agreed that we should return to the 
place where we now separated. 

In this situation we had wherewithal to drink 
in plenty, but with solid food we were totally un- 
provided. We had not seen even a partridge 
throughout the day, and the tracks of rein deer 
that we had discovered, were of an old date. We 
were, however, preparing to make a bed of the 
branches of trees, where we should have had no 
other canopy than that afforded us by the heavens, 
when we heard a shot, and soon after another, 
which was the notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mac- 
kay and the Indian should see the canoe : that 
fortunate circumstance was also confirmed by a 
return of the signal from the people. I was, how- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 185 

ever, so fatigued from the heat and exercise of 
the day, as well as incommoded from drinking so 
much cold water, that I did not wish to remove 
till the following morning ; but the Indian made 
such bitter complaints of the cold and hunger 
he suffered, that I complied with his solicitations 
to depart ; and it was almost dark when we reach- 
ed the canoe, barefooted, and drenched with rain. 
But these inconveniences affected me very little, 
when I saw myself once more surrounded with my 
people. They informed me, that the canoe had 
been broken; and that they had this day experienced 
much greater toil and hardships than on any for- 
mer occasion. I thought it prudent to affect a 
belief of every representation that they made, and 
^ven to comfort each of them with a consolatory 
dram : for, however difficult the passage might 
have been, it was too short to have occupied the 
whole day, if they had not relaxed in their exer- 
tions. The rain was accompanied with thunder 
and lightning. 

It appeared from the various encampments which 
we had seen, and from several paddles we had 
found, that the natives frequent this part of the 
country at the latter end of the summer and the fall. 
The course to day was nearly East-South-East 
two miles and a half. South by West one mile. 
South- South-East one mile and a half. East two 
miles, and South-East by South one mile. 

Thursday, 6. At half past four this morning we 
continued our voyage, our courses being South- 
East by South one mile. East by South three 
quarters of a mile, South-East by East two miles. 
The whole of this distance we proceeded by haul- 
ing the canoe from branch to branch. The cur- 
rent was so strong, that it was impossible to stem 
it with the paddles ; the depth was too great to re- 
ceive any assistance from the poles^ and the bank 



186 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

of the river was so closely lined with willows and 
other trees, that it was impossible to employ the 
line. As it was past twelve before we could fmd 
a place that would allow of our landing, I could 
not get a meridian altitude. We occupied the 
rest of the day in repairing the canoe, drying our 
cloaths, and making paddles and poles to replace 
those which had been broken or lost. 

Friday^ 7. The morning was clear and calm ; 
and since we had been at this station the water had 
risen two inches ; so that the current became still 
stronger ; and its velocity had already been so 
great as to justify our despair in getting up it, if we 
had not been so long accustomed to surmount it. 
I last night observed an emersion of Jupiter's first 
satellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without 
committing the exact time to writing : if my me- 
mory is correct, it was 8. 18. 10. by the time- 
piece. The canoe, which had been little better 
than a wreck, being now repaired, we proceeded 
East two miles and a quarter. South- South- East 
half a mile, South-East a quarter of a mile, when 
we landed to take an altitude for time. We con- 
tinued our route at South-East by East three quar- 
ters of a mile, and landed again to determine the 
latitude, which is 55. 2. 51. To this I add, 2. 
45. Southing, which will make the place of taking 
altitude for time 55, 5. ^6, with which I find that 
my time-piece was slow 1. 32. 23. apparent time ; 
and made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50. West 
of Greenwich. 

From this place we proceeded East by South 
four miles and a half. East- South- East one mile 
and a half, in which space there falls in a small 
river from the East ; East half a mile, South-East 
a mile and a half, East a quarter of a mile, and 
encamped at seven o'clock. Mr. Mackay and the 
hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 187 

in the course of their excursion killed a porcu- 
pine*. Here we found the bed of a very large 
bear quite fresh. During the day several Indian 
encampments were seen, which were of a late 
erection. The current had also lost some of its 
impetuosity during the greater part of the day. 

Saturday, 8. It rained and thundered through 
the night, and at four in the morning we again en- 
countered the current. Our course was East a 
quarter of a mile, round to South by East along a 
very high white sandy bank on the East shore, 
three quarters of a mile, South-South-East a quar^ 
ter of a mile, South-South-West a quarter of a 
mile, South-South-East one mile and a quarter, 
South-East two miles, with a slack current; 
South-East by East two miles and a quarter, East 
a quarter of a mile, South- South-East a quarter of 
a mile, South-East by South four miles and a half, 
South-East one mile and a half, South- South- West 
half a mile, East-North-East half a mile, East- 
South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by 
South one mile, South-East by East half a mile, 
East by South three quarters of a mile, when the 
mountains were in full view^ in this direction, and 
Eastward. For the three last days we could only 
see them at short intervals and long distances; 
but till then, they were continually in sight on ei- 
ther side, from our entrance into the fork. Those 
to the left were at no great distance from us.^ 

For the last two days we had been anxiously 
looking out for the carrying-place, but could not 
discover it, and our only hope was in such infor- 
mation as v/e should be able to procure from the 

* We had been obliged to indulge our hunters with sitting idle in the 
canoe lest their being compelled to share in the labour of navigating it 
should disgust and drive them from us. We, therefore, employed them 
as much as possible on shore, as v/ell to procure provisions, as to lighten 
the crtuot;. 

T t 



188 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

natives. All that remained for us to do, was to 
push forwards till the river should be no longer na- 
vigable : it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, 
so that it was eight at night before we could dis- 
cover a place to encamp. Having found plenty of 
wild parsnips, we gathered the tops, and boiled 
them with pemmican for our supper. 

Sunday^ 9. The rain of this morning termina- 
ted in a heavy mist at half past five, when we em- 
barked and steered South-East one mile and a half, 
when it veered North -North -East half a mile, 
South-East three quarters of a mile. East by 
South three quarters of a mile, East- South-East 
a quarter of a mile. South- South- East a quar- 
ter of a mile, South-East by East one mile. North- 
East by East half a mile, South-East by East half 
a mile, South-East by South three quarters of a 
mile, South-East three quarters of a mile. East by 
South half a mile, South-East by East half a male, 
East-North-East three quarters of a mile, when it 
veered to South-South-East half a mile, then back 
to East (when a blue mountain, clear of snow, ap- 
peared a-head) one mile and a half; North-East by- 
East half a mile, East by North one mile, when it 
veered to South-East half a mile, then on to North- 
West three quarters of a mile, and back to North- 
East by East half a mile, South by West, a quarter 
of a mile, North-East by East to North-North- 
East half a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a 
mile, and East by North half a mile ; here we per- 
ceived a smell of fire ; and in a short time heard 
people in the woods, as if in a state of great con- 
fusion, which was occasioned, as we afterwards un- 
derstood, by their discovery of us. At the same 
time this unexpected circumstance produced some 
little discomposure among ourselves, as our arms 
were not in a state of preparation, and we were as 
yet unable to ascertain the number of the party. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 189 

I considered, that if there were but few, it would 
be needless to pursue them, as it would not be pro- 
bable that we should overtake them in these thick 
woods ; and if they were numerous, it would be an 
act of great imprudence to make the attempt, at 
least during their present alarm. I therefore or- 
dered my people to strike off to the opposite side, 
that we might see if any of them had sufficient cou- 
rage to remain ; but, before we were half over the 
river, which in this part is not more than a hundred 
yards wide, two men appeared on a rising ground 
over against us, brandishing their spears, display- 
ing their bows and arrows, and accompanying 
their hostile gestures with loud vociferations. My 
interpreter did not hesitate to assure them, that 
they might dispel their apprehensions, as we were 
white people, who meditated no injury, but were, 
on the contrary, desirous of demonstrating every 
mark of kindness and friendship. They did not, 
however, seem disposed to confide in our declara- 
tions, and actually threatened, if we came over be- 
fore they v/ere more fully satisfied of our peaceable 
intentions, that they would discharge their arrows 
at us. This was a decided kind of conduct which I 
did not expect ; at the same time I readily com- 
plied with their proposition, and after some time 
had passed in hearing and answeringtheir questions, 
they consented to our landing, though not without 
betraying very evident symptoms of fear and dis- 
trust. They, however, laid aside their weapons, and 
when I stepped forward and took each of them by the 
hand, one of them, but with a very tremulous ac- 
tion, drew his knife from his sleeve, and presented 
it to me as a mark of his submission to my will and 
pleasure. On our first hearing the noise of these 
people in the woods, we displayed our flag, which 
was now shewn to them as a token of friendship. 
They examined us, and every thing about us, with 



190 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

a minute and suspicious attention. They had 
heard, indeed, of white men, but this was the first 
time that they had ever seen a human being of a 
complexion different from their own. The party- 
had been here but a few hours ; nor had they yet 
erected their sheds ; and, except the two men now 
with us, they had ail fled, leaving their little pro- 
perty behind them. To those which had given us 
such a proof of their confidence, we paid the most 
conciliating attentions in our power. One of them 
I sent to recal his people, and the other, for very 
obvious reasons, we kept with us. In the mean 
time the canoe was unloaded, the necessary bag- 
gage carried up the hill, and the tents pitched. 

Here I determined to remain till the Indians be- 
came so familiarized to us, as to give all the intel- 
ligence which we imagined might be obtained 
from them. In fact, it had been my intention to 
land where I might most probably discover the 
carrying-place, which was our more immediate 
object, and undertake marches of two or three 
days, in different directions, in search of another 
river. If unsuccessful in this attempt, it was my 
purpose to continue my progress up the present 
river, as far as it was navigable, and if wx did not 
meet with natives to instruct us in our further pro- 
gress, I had determined to return to the fork, and 
take the other branch, with the hope of better for^ 
tune. 

It was about three in the afternoon when we 
landed, and at five the whole party of Indians were 
assembled. It consisted only of three men, three 
women, and seven or eight boys and girls. With 
their scratched legs, bleeding feet, and dishevelled 
hair, as in the hurry of their flight they had left 
their shoes and leggins behind them, they display- 
ed a most wretched appearance : they w^ere con- 
soled, houever, with beads, and other trifles, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 191 

which seemed to please them : they had pemmican 
also given them to eat, which was not unwelcome, 
and in our opinion, at least, superior to their own 
provision, which consisted entirely of dried fish. 

When I thought that they were sufficiently com- 
posed, I sent for the men to my tent, to gain such 
information respecting the country as I concluded 
it was in their power to aftbrd me. But my ex- 
pectations were by no means satisfied : they said 
that they were not acquainted with any river to 
the Westward, but that there was one from 
whence they were just arrived, over a carrying- 
place of eleven days march, which they repre- 
sented as being a branch only of the river before 
us. Their iron- work they obtained from the 
people who inhabit the bank of that river, and an 
adjacent lake, in exchange for beaver skins, and 
dressed moose skins. They represented the lat- 
ter as travelling, during a moon, to get to the 
country of other tribes, who live in houses, with 
whom they traffic for the same commodities ; and 
that these also extend their journies in the same 
manner to the sea coast, or, to use their expres- 
sion, the Stinking Lake, where they trade with 
people like us, that come there in vessels as big 
as islands. They added, that the people to the 
Westward, as they have been told, are very nu- 
merous. Those who inhabit the other branch 
they stated as consisting of about forty families, 
Avhile they themselves did not amount to more 
than a fourth of that number; and were almost 
continually compelled to remain in their strong- 
holds, where they sometimes perished with cold 
and hunger, to secure themselves from their ene- 
mies, who never failed to attack them whenever 
an opportunity presented itself. 

This account of the country, from a people who 
I bad every reason to suppose were well acquaint- 



192 JOURNAL OF AVOYAGE THROUGH THE 

cd with every part it, threatened to disconcert the 
project on which my heart was set, and in which 
my whole mind was occupied. It occurred to me, 
however, that from fear, or other motives, they 
might be tardy in their communication ; I there- 
fore assured them that, if they would direct me 
to the river which I described to them, I would 
come in large vessels, like those that their neigh- 
bours had described, to the mouth of it, and bring 
them arms and ammunition in exchange for the 
produce of their country ; so that they might be 
able to defend themselves against their enemies, 
and no longer remain in that abject, distressed, 
and fugitive state in which they then lived. I 
added also, that in the mean time, if they would, 
on my return, accompany me below the moun- 
tains, to a country which was very abundant in 
animals, I would furnish them, and their com- 
panions, with every thing they might want ; and 
make peace between them and the Beaver Indians. 
But all these promises did not appear to advance 
the object of my inquiries, and they still persisted 
in their ignorance of any such river as I had men- 
tioned, that discharged itself into the sea. 

In this state of perplexity and disappointment, 
various projects presented themselves to my mind, 
which were no sooner formed than they were dis- 
covered to be impracticable, and were conse- 
quently abandoned. At one time I thought of 
leaving the canoe, and every thing it contained, 
to go over land, and pursue that chain of con- 
nexion by vv'hich these people obtain their iron- 
work ; but a very brief course of reflection con- 
vinced me that it would be impossible for us to 
carry provisions for our support through any con- 
siderable part of such a journey, as well as pre- 
sents, to secure us a kind reception among the na- 
tives, and ammunition for the service of the hun- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 193 

ters, and to defend ourselves against any act of 
hostility. At another time my solicitude for the 
success of the expedition incited a wish to remain 
with the natives, and go to the sea by the way they 
had described ; but the accomplishment of such a 
journey, even if no accident should interpose, 
would have required a portion of time which it 
was not in my power to bestow. In my present 
state of information, to proceed further up the 
river was considered as a fruitless waste of toil* 
some exertion ; and to return unsuccessful, after 
all our labour, sufferings, and dangers, was an 
idea too painful to indulge. Besides, I could not 
yet abandon the hope that the Indians might not 
yet be sufficiently composed and confident, to dis- 
close their real knowledge of the country freely 
and fully to me. Nor was I altogether without 
my doubts respecting the fidelity of my interpre- 
ter, who being very much tired of the voyage, 
might be induced to witliliold those communica- 
tions which would induce me to continue it. I 
therefore continued my attentions to the natives, 
regaled them with such provisions as I had, in- 
dulged their children with a taste of sugar, and 
determined to suspend my conversation with them 
till the following morning. On my expressing a 
desire to partake of their fish, they brought me a 
few dried trout, well cured, that had been taken 
in the river v/hich they lately left. One of the 
men also brought me five beaver skins, as a pre- 
sent. 

Monday^ 10. The solicitude that possessed my 
mind interrupted my repose ; when the dawn ap- 
peared I had already quitted my bed, and was 
waiting v/ith impatience for another conference 
with the natives. The sun, however, had risen 
before they left their leafy bowers, whither they 
had retired with their children, having most hos- 



194 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

pitably resigned their beds, and the partners of 
them, to the solicitations of my young men. 

I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity 
was not removed by any favourable variation in 
their answers. About nine, however, one of 
them, still remaining at my fire, in conversation 
with the interpreters, I understood enough of his 
language to know that he mentioned something 
about a great river, at the same time pointing sig- 
nificantly up that which w^as before us. On my 
inquiring of the interpreter respecting that expres- 
sion, I was informed that he knew of a large river 
that runs tovv^ards the mid-day sun, a branch of 
Avhich flow^ed near the source of that which we 
were now^ navigating ; and that there w^ere only 
three small lakes, and as many carrying-places, 
leading to a small river, which discharges itself 
into the great river, but that the latter did not emp- 
ty itself into the sea. The inhabitants, he said, 
built houses, lived on islands, and were a numer- 
ous and w^arlike people. I desired him to describe 
the road to the other river, by delineating it with 
a piece of coal, on a strip of bark, which he accom- 
plished to my satisfaction. The opinion that the 
river did not discharge itself into the sea, I very 
confidently imputed to his ignorance of the coun- 
try. 

My hopes were now renewed, and an object pre- 
sented itself which awakenedmy utmost impatience. 
To facihtate its attainment, one of the Indians w^as 
induced, by presents, to accompany me as a guide 
to the first inhabitants, which we might expect 
to meet on the small lakes in our way. I accord- 
ingly resolved to depart with all expedition, and 
"while my people were making every necessary 
preparation, I employed myself in writing the 
following description of the natives around me : 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 195 

They are low in stature, not exceeding five feet 
six or seven inches ; and they are of that meagre 
appearance which might be expected in a people 
whose life is one succession of difficulties, in pro- 
curing subsistence. Their faces are round, with 
high cheek bones ; and their eyes, which are small, 
are of a dark brown colour ; the cartilage of their 
nose is perforated, but without any ornaments sus- 
pended from it ; their hair is of a dingy black, 
hanging loose and in disorder over their shoulders, 
but irregularly cut in the front, so as not to ob- 
struct the sight ; their beards are eradicated, with 
the exception of a few straggling hairs, and their 
complexion is a swarthy yellow. 

Their dress consists of robes made of the skins 
of the beaver, the ground-hog and the rein-deer, 
dressed in the hair, and of the moose-skin without 
it. All of them are ornamented with a fringe, 
while some of them have tassels hanging down the 
seams ; those of the ground-hog are decorated on 
the fur side with the tails of the animal, which 
they do not separate from them. Their garments 
they tie over the shoulders, and fasten them round 
the middle with a belt of green skin, which is as 
stiff as horn. Their leggins are long, and, if they 
were topped with a waistband, might be called 
trowsers: they, as well as their shoes, are made 
of dressed moose, elk, or rein-deer skin. The 
organs of generation they leave uncovered. 

The women differ little in their dress from the 
men, except in the addition of an apron, which is 
fastened round the waist, and hangs down to the 
knees. They are in general of a more lusty make 
than the other sex, and taller in proportion, but 
infinitely their inferiors in cleanliness. A black 
artificial stripe crosses the face beneath the eye, 
from ear to ear, which I first took for scabs, from 
the accumulation of dirt on it. Their hair, which 

u u 



196 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

is longer than that of the men, is divided from 
the forehead to the crown, and drawn back in long 
plaits behind the ears. They have also a few 
white beads, which they get where they procure 
their iron : they are from a line to an inch in 
length, and are worn in their ears, but are not of 
Europ ean manufacture. These, with bracelets 
made of horn and bone, compose all the orna- 
ments which decorate their persons. Necklace$ 
of the grisly or white bear's claws, are worn ex- 
clusively by the m.en. 

Their arms consist of bows made of cedar, six 
feet in length, with a short iron spike at one end, 
and serve occasionally as a spear. Their arrows 
are well made, barbed, and pointed with iron, 
flint, stone, or bone ; they are feathered, and 
from two to two feet and a half in length. They 
have tv/o kinds of spears, but both are double 
edged, and of well polished iron ; one of them is 
about twelve inches long, and two wide ; the 
other about half the width, and two thirds of the 
length ; the shafts of the first are eight feet in 
length, and the latter six. They have also spears 
made of bone. Their knives consist of pieces of 
iron, shaped and handled by themselves. Their 
axes are something like our adze, and they use 
them in the same manner as we employ that in- 
strument. They were, indeed, furnished with 
iron in a manner that I could not have supposed, 
and plainly proved to me that their communication 
with those, who communicate with the inhabitants 
of the sea coast, cannot be very difficult, and from 
their ample provision of iron weapons, the means 
of procuring it must be of a more distant origin 
than I had at first conjectured. 

They have snares made of green skin, which 
they cut to the size of sturgeon twine, and twist a 
certain number of them together; and though when 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 197 

completed they do not exceed the thickness of a 
cod-line, their strength is sufficient to hold a moose 
deer ; they are from one and a half to two fathoms 
in length. Their nets and fishing-lines are made 
of willow-bark and nettles ; those made of the lat- 
ter are finer and smoother than if made with hemp-, 
en thread. Their hooks are small bones, fixed in 
pieces of wood split for that purpose, and tied 
round with fine watape, which has been particu- 
larly described in the former voyage. Their ket- 
tles are also made of watape, which is so closely 
woven that they never leak, and they heat water 
in them, by putting red-hot stones into it. There 
is one kind of them, made of spruce-bark, which 
they hang over the fire, but at such a distance as 
to receive the heat without being within reach 
of the blaze ; a very tedious operation. They 
have various dishes of wood and bark ; spoons of 
horn and wood, and buckets ; bags of leather and 
net-work, and baskets of bark, some of which 
hold their fishing-tackle, while others are contrived 
to be carried on the back. They have a brown 
kind of earth in great abundance, with which they 
rub their clothes, not only for ornament but utility, 
as it prevents the leather from becoming hard after 
it has been wetted. They have spruce bark in 
great plenty, with which they make their canoes, 
an operation that does not require any great por- 
tion of skill or ingenuity, and is managed in the 
following manner. — The bark is taken off* the tree 
the whole length of the intended canoe, which is 
commonly about eighteen feet, and is sewed with 
watape at both ends ; two laths are then laid, and 
fixed along the edge of the bark which forms the 
gunwale ; in these are fixed the bars, and against 
them bear the ribs or timbers, that are cut to the 
length to which the bark can be stretched; and, 
to give additional strength, strips of wood are laid 



198 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

between them : to make the whole water- tight, 
gum is abundantly employed. These vessels carry 
from two to five people. Canoes of a similar con- 
struction were used by the Beaver Indians within 
these few years, but they now very generally em- 
ploy those made of the bark of the birch tree, 
which are by far more durable. Their paddles are 
about six feet long, and about one foot is occupied 
by the blade, which is in the shape of an heart. 

Previous to our departure, the natives had 
caught a couple of trout, of about six pounds 
weight, which they brought me, and I paid them 
with beads. They likewise gave me a net, made 
of nettles, the skin of a moose-deer, dressed, and 
a white horn in the shape of a spoon, which re- 
sembles the horn of the buffalo of the Copper- 
Mine-River; but their description of the animal 
to which it belongs does not answer to that. My 
young men also got two quivers of excellent ar- 
rows, a collar of white bear's claws, of a great 
length, horn bracelets, and other articles, for 
which they received an ample remuneration. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 199 



CHAPTER VI. 

Continue the ^voyage. State of the ri'oer. Suc- 
cession of courses. Sentiment of the guide. Co- 
nical mountain. Continuation of courses. Lea'oe 
the main branch. Enter another. Descrip^ 
tion of it. Saw beaver. Enter a lake. Arrive 
at the upper source of the Unfigah^ or Peace 
River. Land^ and cross to a second lake. 
Local circumstances. Proceed to a third lake. 
Enter a 'river. Encounter various difficulties. 
In danger of being lost. The circumstances of 
that situation described. Alarm and dissatis- 
faction among the people. They are at length 
composed. The canoe repaired. Roads cut 
through woods. Pass morasses. The guide 
deserts. After a succession of difficulties^ dan- 
gers^ and toilsome marches^ voe arrive at the 
great river, 

June, 1793. 

Monday, 10. AT ten we were ready to em- 
bark. I then took leave of the Indians, but en- 
couraged them to expect us in two moons, and ex- 
pressed an hope that I should find them on the 
road with any of their relations whom they might 
meet. I also returned the beaver skins to the 
man who had presented them to me, desiring him 
to take care of them till I came back, when I would 
purchase them of him. Our guide expressed much 
less concern about the undertaking in which he 
had engaged, than his companions, who appeared 
to be affected with great solicitude for his safety. 

We now pushed off the canoe from the bank, 
and proceeded East half a mile, when a river flow- 
ed in from the left, about half as large as that 
which we were navigating. We continued the 



200 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

same course three quarters of a mile, when we 
missed two of our fov/ling pieces, which had been 
forgotten, and I sent their owners back for them, 
who were absent on this errand upwards of an 
hour. We now proceeded North-East by East 
half a mile, North-East by North three quarters 
of a mile, when the current slackened ; there was 
a verdant spot on the left, w^here, from the re- 
mains of some Indian timber-work, it appeared, 
that the natives have frequently encamped. Our 
next course was East one mile, and we saw a 
ridge of mountains covered with snow to the 
South- East. The land on our right was low and 
marshy for three or four miles, when it rose into 
a range of heights that extended to the mountains. 
We proceeded East- South- East a mile and a half, 
South- East by East one mile. East by South three 
quarters of a mile, South-East by East one mile, 
East by South half a mile, North-East by East 
one mile, South-East half a mile, East-North- East 
a mile and a quarter. South- South- East half a 
mile, North-North-East a mile and a half : here 
a river flowed in from the left, which w^as about one- 
fourth part as large as that which received its tri- 
butary waters. We then continued East by South 
half a mile, to the foot of the mountain on the 
South of the above river. The course now veered 
short, South- West by West three quarters of a 
mile. East by South a quarter of a mile, South 
half a mile, South-East by South half a mile, South- 
West a quarter of a mile, East by South a quar- 
ter of a mile, veered to West-North- West a quar-, 
ter of a mile, South-West one eighth of a mile. 
East South-East one quarter of a mile. East one 
sixth of a mile, South-South- West one twelfth of 
a mile. East South-East one eighth of a mile, 
North-East by East one third of a mile. East by 
North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by East 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 201 

one third of a mile. East one sixteenth of a mile, 
South-East one twelfth of a mile, North-East by- 
East one twelfth of a mile, East one eighth of a 
mile, and East-South-East half a mile, when we 
landed at seven o'clock and encamped. During 
the greatest part of the distance we came to-day, 
the river runs close under the mountains on the 
left. 

Wednesday^ 12. The morning was clear and 
cold. On my interpreter's encouraging the guide 
to dispel all apprehension, to maintain his fidelity to 
me, and not to desert in the night, '' How is it pos- 
*' sible for me," he replied, " to leave the lodge of 
" the Great Spirit ! — When he tells me that he 
** has no further occasion for me, I will then re- 
'^ turn to my children." As we proceeded, how- 
ever, he soon lost, and with good reason, his ex- 
alted notions of me. 

At four we continued our voyage, steering East 
by South a mile and a half, East- South- East half 
a mile. A river appeared on the left, at the foot 
of a mountain which, from its conical form, my 
young Indian called the Beaver Lodge Mountain. 
Having proceeded South- South-East half a mile, 
another river appeared from the right. We now 
came in a line with the beginning of the mountains 
we saw yesterday : others of the same kind ran 
parallel with them on the left side of the river, 
which was reduced to the breadth of fifteen yards, 
and wdth a moderate current. 

We now steered East-North-East one eighth of 
a mile, South-East by South one eighth of mile. 
East- South-East one sixth of a mile, South -West 
one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth 
of a mile. South- South-East one sixth of a mile, 
North- East by East one twelfth a mile. East- South- 
East half a mile. South- West by West one third 
of a mile, South-Sputh-East one eighth of a mile. 



202 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

South- South- West one quarter of a mile, North- 
East one sixth of a mile, South by West one fourth 
of a mile, East three quarters of a mile, and North- 
East one quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on 
the left appeared to be composed of a succession 
of round hills, covered with wood almost to their 
summits, which were white with snow, and crown- 
ed with withered trees. We now steered East, in 
a line with the high lands on the right five miles ; 
North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by North 
one eighth of a mile. South by East one sixteenth 
of a mile, North-East by North one fourth of a 
mile, where another river fell in from the right ; 
North-East by East one sixth of a mile, East two 
miles and a half, South one twefth of a mile, North- 
East half a mile, South-East one third of a mile, 
East one mile and a quarter. South- South- West 
one sixteenth of a mile, North-East by East half a 
mile, East one mile and three quarters. South and 
South- West by West half a mile, North-East half 
a mile. South one third of a mile, North-East by 
North one sixth of a mile, East by South one 
fourth of a mile. South one eighth of a mile, South- 
East three quarters of a mile. The canoe had 
taken in so much water, that it was necessary for 
us to land here, in order to stop the leakage, which 
occasioned the delay of an hour and a quarter, 
North-East a quarter of a mile, East-North- East 
a quarter of a mile, South- East by South a six- 
teenth of a mile. East by South a twelfth of a mile, 
North-East one sixth of a mile, East-South-East 
one sixteenth of a mile, South- West half a mile, 
North-East a quarter of a mile. East by South 
half a mile. South- South- East one twelfth of a 
mile. East half a mile, North-East by North a 
quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a 
mile, North-East by North one twelfth of a mile, 
where a small river flowed in from the left, South- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, 203 

East by East one twelfth of a mile, South by East 
a quarter of a mile, South-East one eighth of a 
mile, East one twelfth of a mile, North-East by 
North a quarter of a mile. South half a mile, South- 
East by South one eighth of a mile, North-East 
one fourth of a mile, South-East by East, and 
South-East by South one third of a mile, East- 
South -East, and North-North-East one third of a 
mile, and South by West, East and East-North- 
East one eighth of a mile. 

Here we quitted the main branch, which, ac- 
cording to the information of our guide, terminates 
at a short distance, where it is supplied by the 
snow which covers the mountains. In the same 
direction is a valley which appears to be of very 
great depth, and is full of snow, that rises nearly 
to the height of the land, and forms a reservoir of 
itself sufficient to furnish a river, whenever there 
is a moderate degree of heat. The branch which 
we left was not, at this time, more than ten yards 
broad, while that which we entered was still less. 
Here the current was very trifling, and the channel 
60 meandering, that we sometimes found it diffi- 
cult to work the canoe forward. The straight 
course from this to the entrance of a small lake or 
pond, is about East one mile. This entrance by 
the river into the lake was almost choked up by a 
quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to me to be 
an extraordinary circumstance : but I afterwards 
found that it falls down from the mountains. The 
water, however, was so high, that the country was 
entirely overflowed, and we passed with the canoe 
among the branches of trees. The principal wood 
along the banks is spruce, intermixed with a few 
white birch, growing on detached spots, the inter- 
vening spaces being covered with willow and alder. 
We advanced about a mile in the lake, and took 
up our station for the night at an old Indian en- 

X X 



204 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

campment. Here we expected to meet with na- 
tives, but were disappointed ; but our guide 
encouraged us with the hope of seeing some on the 
morrow. We saw beaver in the course of the 
afternoon, but did not discharge our pieces from 
the fear of alarming the inhabitants ; there were 
also swans in great numbers, with geese and ducks, 
which we did not disturb for the same reason. We 
observed also the tracks of moose-deer that had 
crossed the river ; and wild parsnips grew here in 
abundance, which have been already mentioned as 
a grateful vegetable. Of birds, we saw blue jays, 
yellow birds, and one beautiful humming-bird ; of 
the first and last, I had not seen any since I had 
been in the North-West. 

The weather was the same as yesterday, and we 
proceeded between three and four in the morning. 
We took up the net Avhich we had set the preceding 
evening, when it contained a trout, one white fish, 
one carp, and three jub. The lake is about two 
miles in length. East by South, and from three to 
five hundred yards wide. This I consider as the 
highest and Southernmost source of the Unjigah, 
or Peace River, latitude, 54. 24. North, longitude 
121. West from Greenwich, which, after a wind- 
ing course through a vast extent of country, re- 
ceiving many large rivers in its progress, and pass- 
ing through the Slave Lake, empties itself into the 
Frozen Ocean, in 70. North latitude, and about 
135. West longitude. 

We landed and unloaded, where we found a 
beaten path leading over a low ridge of land eight 
hundred and seventeen paces in length, to another 
small lake. The distance between the two moun- 
tains at this place is about a quarter of a mile, 
rocky precipices presenting themselves on both 
sides. A few large spruce trees and liards were 
scattered over the carrying-place. There were 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 205 

also willows along the side of the water, with 
plenty of grass and weeds. The natives had left 
their old canoes here, with baskets hanging on the 
trees, which contained various articles. From the 
latter I took a net, some hooks, a goats' -horn, and 
a kind of wooden trap, in which, as our guide in- 
formed me, the ground-hog is taken. I left, how- 
ever, in exchange, a knife, some iire-steels, beads, 
awls, &:c. Here tvvo streams tumble down the 
rocks from the right, and lose themselves in the 
lake which we had left ; while two others fall from 
the opposite heights, and glide into the lake which 
we were approaching ; this being the highest point 
of land dividing these waters, and we arc now go- 
ing v*dth the stream. This lake runs in the same 
course as the last, but is rather narrow er, and not 
more than half the length. We were obliged to 
clear away some floating drift-wood to get to the 
carrying- place, over which is a beaten path of only 
an hundred and seventy-five paces long. The lake 
empties itself by a small river, which, if the chan- 
nel were not interrupted by large trees that had 
fallen across it, would have admitted of our canoe 
with all its lading: the impediment, indeed, might 
have been removed by tw-o axemen in a few hours. 
On the ^dgQ of the water, we observed a large 
quantity of thick, yellow, scum or froth, of an 
acrid taste and smell. 

We embarked on this lake, which is in the same 
course, and about the same size as that which we 
had just left, and from whence we passed into a 
small river, that was so full of fallen wood, as to 
employ some time, and require some exertion, to 
force a passage. At the entrance, it afforded no 
more water than was just sufficient to bear the ca- 
noe; but it was soon increased by many small 
streams which came in broken rills down the rug- 
ged sides of the mountains, and were furnished, as 



206 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

I suppose, by the melting of the snow. These ac- 
cessory streamlets had all the coldness of ice. Our 
course continued to be obstructed by banks of gra- 
vel, as well as trees which had fallen across the 
river. We were obliged to force our way through 
the one, and to cut through the other, at a great 
€xpence of time and trouble. In many places the 
current was also very rapid and meandering. At 
four in the afternoon, wc stopped to unload and 
carry, and at five we entered a small round lake of 
about one third of a mile in diameter. From the 
last lake to this is, I think, in a straight line. East 
by South six miles, though it is twice that distance 
by the winding of the river. We again entered the 
river, which soon ran with great rapidity, and rush- 
ed impetuously over a bed of flat stones. At half 
past six we were stopped by two large trees that 
lay across the river, and it was with great difficulty 
that the canoe was prevented from driving against 
them. Here we unloaded and formed our encamp- 
ment. 

The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the cir- 
cumstances of this day's voyage had compelled us 
to be frequently in the water, which was cold as ice, 
we were almost in a benumbed state. Some of the 
people who had gone ashore to lighten the canoe, 
experienced great difficulty in reaching us, from the 
rugged state of the country i it was, indeed, almost 
dark when they arrived. We had no sooner landed 
than I sent two men down the river to bring me 
some account of its circumstances, that I might 
form a judgment of the difficulties which might 
await us on the morrow; and they brought back a 
fearful detail of rapid currents, fallen trees, and 
large stones. At this place our guide manifested 
evident symptoms of discontent : he had been very 
much alarmed in going dow^n some of the rapids 
with us, and expressed an anxiety to return. He 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 2or 

shevv^ed us a mountain, at no great distance, which 
he represented as being on the other side of a river, 
Into which this empties itself. 

Thursday^ 13. At an early hour of this morning 
the men began to cut a road, in order to carry the 
canoe and lading beyond the rapid ; and by seven 
they were ready. That business was soon effected, 
and the canoe reladen, to proceed with the current 
which ran with great rapidity. In order to lighten 
her, it was my intention to walk with some of the 
peaple ; but those in the boat with great earnest- 
ness requested me to embark, declaring, at the same 
time, that, if they perished, I should perish with 
them. I did not then imagine in how short a period 
their apprehension would be justified. We accord- 
ingly pushed off, and had proceeded but a very 
short way when the canoe struck, and notwith- 
standing all our exertions, the violence of the cur- 
rent was so great as to drive her sideways down the 
river, and break her by the first bar, when I in- 
stantly jumped into the water, and the men follow- 
ed my example; but before we could set her 
straight, or stop her, we came to deeper water, so 
that we were obliged to re-embark with the utmost 
precipitation. One of the men who was not suffi- 
ciently active, w^as left to get on shore in the best 
manner in his power. We had hardly regained our 
situations when we drove against a rock which 
shattered the stern of the canoe in such a manner, 
that it held only by the gunwales, so that the steers- 
man could no longer keep his place. The violence 
of this stroke drove us to the opposite side of the 
river, which is but narrow, when the bow met with 
the same fate as the stern. At this moment the 
foreman seized on some branches of a small tree in 
the hope of bringing up the canoe, but such was 
their elasticity that, in a manner not easily descri- 
bed, he was jerked on shore in an instant, and with 



208 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

£ degree of violence that threatened his destruction. 
But we had no time to turn from our own situation 
to enquire what had befallen him ; for, in a few 
moments, we came across a cascade which broke 
several large holes in the bottom of the canoe, and 
started all the bars, except one behind the scooping 
seat. If this accident, however, had not happened, 
the vessel must have been irretrievably overset. 
The wreck becoming fiat on the Vv^ater, we all 
jumped out, while the steersman, who had been 
compelled to abandon his place, and had not reco- 
vered from his fright, called out to his companions 
to save themselves. My peremptory commands 
superseded the effects of his fear, and they all held 
fast to the wreck ; to which fortunate resolution we 
ovvcd our safetv, as we should otherwise have been 
dashed against the rocks by the force of the water, 
or driven over the cascades. In this condition we 
were forced several hundred yards, and every yard 
on the verge of destruction; but, at length, we most 
fortunately arrived in shallow water and a small 
eddy, where we were enabled to make a stand, from 
the weight of the canoe resting on the stones, rather 
than from any exertions of our exhausted strength. 
For though our efforts were short, they were pushed 
to the utmost, as life or death depended on them. 
This alarming scene, with all its terrors and 
dangers, occupied only a few minutes ; and in 
the present suspension of it, we called to the peo- 
ple on shore to come to our assistance, and they 
immediately obeyed the summons. The foreman 
however, was the first v/ith us ; he had escaped 
unhurt from the extraordinary jerk with which he 
was thrown out of the boat, and just as we were 
beginning to take our effects out of the water, he 
appeared to give his assistance. The Indians, 
when they saw our deplorable situation, instead of 
making the least effort to help us, sat down and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 209 

gave vent to their tears. I was on the outside of 
the canoe, where I remained till every thing was 
got on shore, in a state of great pain from the ex- 
treme cold of the water ; so that at length, it was 
with difficulty I could stand, from the benumbed 
state of my limbs. 

The loss was considerable and important, for 
it consisted of our whole stock of balls, and some 
of our furniture ; but these considerations were 
forgotten in the impressions of our miraculous 
escape. Our first inquiry was after the absent 
man, whom in the first moment of danger, we 
had left to get on shore, and in a short time his 
appearance removed our anxiety. We had, how- 
ever, sustained no personal injury of consequence, 
and my bruises seemed to be in the greater pro- 
portion. 

All the different articles w^ere now spread out 
to dry. The powder had fortunately received no 
damage, and all my instruments had escaped. In- 
deed, when my people began to recover from their 
alarm, and to enjoy a sense of safety, some of 
them, if not all, were by no means sorry for our 
late misfortune, from the hope that it must put a 
period to our voyage, particularly as we were 
without a canoe, and all the bullets sunk in the 
river. It did not, indeed, seem possible to them 
that we could proceed under these circumstances. 
I listened, however, to the observations that were 
made on the occasion without replying to them, 
till their panic was dispelled, and they had got 
themselves warm and comfortable, with an hearty 
meal, and rum enough to raise their spirits. 

I then addressed them, by recommending them 
all to be thankful for their late very narrow escape. 
I also stated, that the navigation was not imprac- 
ticable in itself, but from our ignorance of its 
course ; and that our late experience vv ould enable 



210 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

us to pursue our voyage with greater security, I 
brought to their recollection, that I did not de- 
ceive them, and that they were made acquainted 
with the difficulties and dangers they must expect 
to encounter, before they engaged to accompany 
me. I also urged the honour of conquering dis- 
asters, and the disgrace that would attend them 
on their return home, without having attained the 
object of the expedition. Nor did I fail to men- 
tion the courage and resolution which was the pe- 
culiar boast of the North men ; and that I depend- 
ed on them, at that moment, for the maintenance 
of their character. I quieted their apprehension 
as to the loss of the bullets, by bringing to their 
recollection that we still had shot from which they 
might be manufactured. I at the same time ac- 
knowledged the difficulty of restoring the wreck 
of the canoe, but confided in our skill and exertion 
to put it in such a state as would carry us on to 
where we might procure bark, and build a new 
one. In short, my harangue produced the de- 
sired effect, and a very general assent appeared 
to go wherever I should lead the way. 

Various opinions were offered in the present 
posture of affairs, and it was rather a general wish 
that the wreck should be abandoned, and all the 
lading carried to the river, which our guide in- 
formed us was at no great distance, and in the 
vicinity of w^oods where he believed there was 
plenty of bark. This project seemed not to pro- 
mise that certainty to which I looked in my pre- 
sent operations ; besides, I had my doubts res- 
pecting the views of my guide, and consequently 
could not confide in the representation he made to 
me. I therefore dispatched two of the men at nine 
in the morning, w4th one of the young Indians, 
for I did not venture to trust the guide out of my 
sight, in search of bark, and to endeavour, if it 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 2 1 i 

were possible, in the course of the day, to pene- 
trate to the great river, into which that before us 
discharges itself in the direction which the guide 
had communicated. T now joined my people m 
order to repair, as well as circumstances would 
admit, our wreck of a canoe, and I began to set 
them the example. 

At noon I had an altitude, which gave 54. 23, 
North latitude. At four in the afternoon I took 
time, with the hope that in the night I might ob- 
tain an observation of Jupiter, and his satellites, 
but I had not a sufficient horizon, from the pro- 
pinquity of the'mountains. The result of my cal- 
culation for time was 1. 52. 28. slow apparent 

It now grew late, and the people who had been 
sent on the excursion already mentioned, were not 
yet returned ; about ten o'clock, however, I heard 
a man halloo, and I very gladly returned the sig- 
nal. In a short time our young Indian arrived 
with a small roll of indifferent bark : he was op- 
pressed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes 
torn to rags : he had parted with the other two 
men at sun- set, who had walked the whole day, 
in a dreadful country, without procuring any good 
bark, or being able to get to the large river. His 
account of the river, on whose banks we were, 
could not be more unfavourable or discouraging ; 
it had appeared to him to be little more than a suc- 
cession of falls and rapids, with occasional inter- 
ruptions of fallen trees. 

Our guide became so dissatisfied and troubled in 
mind, that we could not obtain from him any regu- 
lar account of the country before us. All we could 
collect from him was, that the river into which this 
empties itself, is but a branch of a large river, the 
great fork being at no great distance from the con- 
fluence of this ; and that he knew of no lake, or 

y V 



2 1 2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

large body of still water, in the vicinity of these 
rivers. To this account of the countrv, he added 
some strange, fanciful, but terrifying descriptions 
of the natives, similar to those which were men- 
mentioned in the former voyage. 

We had an escape this day, which I must add 
to the many instances of good fortune which I ex- 
perienced in this perilous expedition. The pow- 
der had been spread out, to the amount of eighty 
pounds weight, to receive the air ; and, in this si- 
tuation, one of the men carelessly and composedly 
walked across it with a lighted pipe in his mouth, 
but without any ill consequence resulting from 
such an act of criminal negligence. I need not add 
that one spark might have put a period to all my 
anxiety and ambition. 

I observed several trees and plants on the banks 
of this river, which I had not seen to the North of 
the latitude 52. such as the cedar, maple, hem- 
lock, 8cc. At this time the water rose fast, and 
passed on with the rapidity of an arrow shot from 
a bow. 

Friday^ 14. The weather was fine, clear, and 
warm, and at an early hour of the morning we re- 
sumed our repair of the canoe. At half past seven 
our two men returned hungry and cold, not having 
tasted food, or enjoyed the least repose for twenty- 
four hours, with their clothes torn into tatters, and 
their skin lacerated, in passing through the woods. 
Their account was the same as .that brought by 
the Indian, with this exception, that they had rea- 
son to think they saw the river, or branch which 
our guide had mentioned : but they were of opini- 
on that from the frequent obstructions in this river, 
we should have to carry the whole way to it, through 
a dreadful country, where much time and labour 
would be required to open a passage through it. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 213 

Discouraging as these aceounts were, they did 
not, however, interrupt for a moment the task in 
which we were engaged, of repairing the canoe ; 
and this work we contrived to complete by the con- 
clusion of the day. The bark which was brought by 
the Indian, with some pieces of oil-cloth, and plenty 
of gum, enabled us to put our shattered vessel in 
a condition to answer our present purposes. The 
guide, who has been mentioned as manifesting 
continual signs of dissatisfaction, now assumed an 
air of contentment, which I attributed to a smoke 
that was visible in the direction of the river ; as 
he naturally expected, if we should fall in with^ny 
natives, which was now very probable, from such 
a circumstance, that he should be released from a 
service which he had found so irksome and full 
of danger. I had an observation at noon, which 
made our latitude 54. 23. 43. North. I also took 
time, and found it slow apparent time 1. 38. 44. 
Saturday^ 15. The weather continued the same as 
the preceding day, and according to the directions 
which I had previously given, my people began at a 
very early hour to open a road, through which we 
might carry a part of our lading ; as I was fearful 
of risquing the whole of it in the canoe, in its 
present weak state, and in a part of the river 
which is full of shoals and rapids. Four men were 
employed to conduct her, lightened as she was of 
twelve packages. They passed several dangerous 
places, and met with various obstructions, the 
current of the river being frequently stopped by 
rafts of drift wood, and fallen trees, so that after 
fourteen hours hard labour we had not made more 
than three miles. Our course was South-East 
by East, and as we had not met with any accident, 
the men appeared to feel a renewed courage to 
continue their voyage. In the morning, how- 
ever, one of the crew, whose name was Beau- 



214 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

champ, peremptorily refused to embark in the 
canoe. This being the first example of absolute 
disobedience which had yet appeared during the 
course of our expedition, I should not have passed 
it over without taking some very severe means 
to prevent a repetition of it ; but as he had the 
general character of a simple fellow, among his 
companions, and had been frightened out of what 
little sense he possessed, by our late dangers, I 
rather preferred to consider him as unworthy of 
accompanying us, and to represent him as an ob- 
ject of ridicule and contempt for his pusillanimous 
behaviour ; though, in fact, he was a very use- 
ful, active, and laborious man. 

At the close of the day we assembled round a 
blazing fire ; and the whole party, being enliven- 
ed with the usual beverage which I supplied on 
these occasions, forgot their fatigues and appre- 
hensions ; nor did they fail to anticipate the plea- 
sure they should enjoy in getting clear of their 
present difficulties, and gliding onwards with a 
strong and steady stream, which our guide had 
described as the characteristic* of the large river 
we soon expected to enter. 

Sunday^ 16. The fine weather continued, and we 
began our work, as we had done the preceding day; 
some were occupied in opening a road, others were 
carrying, and the rest employed in conducting the 
canoe. I was of the first party, and soon disco- 
vered that we had encamped about half a mile 
above several falls, over which we could not at- 
tempt to run the canoe, lightened even as she 
was. This circumstance rendered it necessary 
that the road should be made sufficiently wide to 
admit the canoe to pass ; a tedious and toilsome 
work. In running her down a rapid above the 
falls, a hole was broken in her bottom, which 
occasioned a considerable delav, as we were des- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 215 

titude of the materials necessary for her eifectual 
reparation. On my being informed of this mis- 
fortune, I returned, and ordered Mr. Mackay, 
with two Indians, to quit their occupation in mak- 
ing the road, and endeavour to penetrate to the 
great river, according to the direction which the 
guide had communicated, without paying any at- 
tention to the course of the river before us* 

When the people had repaired the canoe in the 
best manner they were able, we conducted her to 
the head of the falls ; she was then unloaded and 
taken out of the water, when we carried her for a 
considerable distance through a low, swampy 
country. I appointed four men to this laborious 
office, which they executed at the peril of their 
lives, for the canoe was now become so heavy, 
from the additional quantity of bark and gum ne- 
cessary to patch her up, that two men could not 
carry her more than an hundred yards, without 
being relieved ; and as their way lay through deep 
mud, which was rendered more difficult by the 
roots and prostrate trunks of trees, they were every 
moment in danger of falling ; and beneath such a 
weight, one false step might have been attended 
with fatal consequences. The other two men and 
myself followed as fast as we could, with the la- 
ding. Thus did Ave toil till seven o'clock in the 
evening, to get to the termination of the road that 
had been made in the morning. Here Mr. Mac- 
kay and the Indian joined us, after having been at 
the river, which they represented as rather large. 
They had also observed, that the lower part of the 
river before us was so full of fallen wood, that the 
attempt to clear a passage through it, would be an 
unavailing labour. The country through which 
they had passed v» as morass, and almost impene- 
trable w^ood. In passing over one of the embar- 
ras, our dog, which was follov.ing them, fell in., 



216 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and it was with very great difficulty that lie was 
saved, as the current had carried him under the 
drift. They brought with them two geese, which 
had been shot in the course of their expedition. 
To add to our perplexities and embarrassments, 
-we were persecuted by musquitoes and sand-flies, 
through the whole of the day. 

The extent of our journey was not more than 
two miles South- East ; and so much fatigue and 
pain had been suffered in the course of it, that 
my people, as might be expected, looked forward 
to a continuance of it with discouragement and 
dismay. I was, indeed, informed that mur- 
murs prevailed among them, of which, however, 
I took no notice. When we were assembled to- 
p*e*her for the night, I gave each of them a dram, 
and in a short time they retired to the repose which 
they so much required. We could discover the 
termination of the mountains at a considerable dis- 
tance on either side of us, which, according to 
my conjecture, marked the course of the great ri- 
ver. On the mountains to the East there were 
several fires, as their smokes were very visible to 
us. Excessive heat prevailed throughout the day. 

Monday, 17. Having sat up till twelve last 
night, which had been my constant practice since 
we had taken our present guide, I awoke Mr. 
Mackay to watch him in turn. I then laid down 
to rest, and at three I was awakened to be inform- 
ed that he had deserted. Mr. Mackay, with whom 
I was displeased on this occasion, and the Cancre, 
accompanied by the dog, went in search of him, 
but he had made his escape : a design which he 
had for some time meditated, though I had done 
every thing in my power to induce him to remain 
wath me. 

This misfortune did not produce any relaxa- 
tion in our exertions. At an early hour of the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 217 

morninf^ wc were all employed in cutting a pas- 
sage of three quarters of a mile, through which 
wc carried our canoe and cargo, when v/e put her 
into the water with her lading, but in a very short 
time were stopped by the drift-wood, and were 
obliged to land and carry. In short, we pursued 
our alternate journics, by land and water, till noon, 
when we could proceed no further, from the vari- 
ous small unnavigablc channels into which the ri- 
ver branched in every direction ; and no other 
mode of getting forward now remained for us, but 
by cutting a road across a neck of land. I accord- 
ingly dispatched two men to ascertain the exact 
distance, and we employed the interval of their ab- 
sence in unloading and getting the canoe out of 
the water. It was eight in the evening when we 
arrived at the bank of the great river. This jour- 
ney was three quarters of a mile East-North-East, 
through a continued swamp, where, in many ])la- 
ces, we waded up to the middle of our thighs. Our 
course in the small river was about South-East by 
East three miles. At length we enjoyed, after all 
our toil and anxiety, the inexpressible satisfac- 
tion of finding ourselves on the bank of a navigable 
river, on the West side of the first great range of 
mountains;. 



218 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER VII. 

Rainy night » Proceed on the great ringer. Cir- 
cumstances of it. Account of courses. Come to 
rapids, Obseriie se^oeral smokes. See a flight 
of ivhite ducks. Pass over a carrying-place 
with the ca?ioe^ ^c. The difliculties of that 
passage. Abundance of wild onions, Re-e7n- 
bark on the river. See some of the natives. They 
desert their camp and fly into the woods. Cour- 
ses continued. Kill a red deer^ ^c, Circum- 
stances of the river. Arrive at an Indian ha- 
bitation. Description of it. Account of a 
curious machine to catch fish. Land to pro- 
cure bark for the purpose of constructing a new 
canoe. Conceal a quantity of pemmican for 
provision on our return. Succession of courses. 
Meet with some of the natives. Our intercourse 
with them. Their information respecting the 
river ^ and the country. Description of those 
people, 

Ju7ie, 1793. 

Tuesday^ 18. IT rained throughout the night 
and till seven in the morning ; nor was I sorry 
that the weather gave me an excuse for indulging 
my people with that additional rest, which their 
fatigues, during the last three days, rendered so 
comfortable to them. Before eight, however, we 
were on the water, and driven on by a strong cur- 
rent, when we steered East- South- East half a 
mile, South- West by South half a mile, South- 
South-East half a mile, South-West half a mile, 
went round to North-West half a mile, back- 
ed South- South- East three quarters of a mile, 
South- South-West half a mile, South by East a 
quarter of a mile, and South-West by South three 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 219 

quarter of a mile. Here the water had fallen 
considerably, so that several mud and sand-banks 
were visible. There was also a hill a-head, West 
South- West. 

The weather was so hazy that we could not see 
across the river, which is here about two hundred 
yards wide. We now proceeded South by West one 
third of a mile, when we saw a considerable quan- 
tity of beaver work along the banks, North-North- 
\Vest half a mile, South-West by West one mik 
and a half, South-South-West one third of a mile, 
West by South one third of a mile, South by 
East half a mile. Mountains rose on the left, im- 
mediately above the river, whose summits were 
covered with snow; South-West half a mile. South 
a quarter of a mile, South- East one third of a 
mile, South- South -West half a mile. Here are 
several islands ; we then veered to West by South 
third of a mile. South- South- East a sixth of a 
mile. On the right, the land is high, rocky, and 
covered with wood ; West- South- West one mile; 
a small river running in from the South- East ; 
South-West half a mile. South three quarters of a 
mile, South-West half a mile. South by West half 
a mile. Here a rocky point protrudes from the 
left, and narrows the river to a hundred yards ; 
South-East half a mile. East by South one eighth 
of a mile. The current now was very strong, but 
perfectly safe ; South-East by South an eighth of 
a mile. West by North one third of a mile, South 
by West a twelfth of a mile, South-West one fourth 
of a mile. Here the high land terminates on one 
side of the river, while rocks rise to a considerable 
height immediately above the other, and the chan- 
nel widens to a hundred and fifty yards. West by 
South one mile. The river now narrows again 
between rocks of a moderate height, North-North- 
East an eighth of a mile, veered to South-West 

z z 



220 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

an eighth of a mile, South and South-West half a 
mile. The country appeared to be low, as far as 
I could judge of it from the canoe, as the view is 
confined by woods at the distance of about a hun- 
dred yards from the banks. Our course continued 
West by North two miles. North half a mile, 
North- West a quarter of a mile, South-West two 
miles, North- West three quarters of a mile; when 
a ridge of high land appeared in this direction ; 
West one mile. A small river flowed in from the 
North; South a quarter of a mile, North- West 
half a mile, South-South- West two miles and a 
half, South -East three quarters of a mile ; a rivu- 
let lost itself in the main stream, West-North- 
West half a mile. Here the current slackened, 
and we proceeded South- South-West three quar- 
ters of a mile, South-West three quarters of a mile. 
South by East three quarters of a mile, South- 
East by East one mile, when it veered gradually 
to West-North- West half a mile ; the river being 
full of islands. We proceeded due North, with 
little current, the river presenting a beautiful sheet 
of water for a mile and a half, South-West by 
West one mile, West-North- West one mile, when 
it veered round to South-East one mile. West by 
North one mile, South-East one mile. West by 
North three quarters of a mile. South one eighth 
of a mile, when we came to an Indian cabin of late 
erection. Here was the great fork, of which our 
guide had informed us, and it appeared to be the 
largest branch from the South-East. It is about 
half a mile in breadth, and assumes the form of a 
lake. The current was very slack, and we got into 
the middle of the channel, v/hen we steered West, 
and sounded in sixteen feet water. 

A ridge of high land now stretched on, as it 
were, across our present direction: this course was 
three miles. We then proceeded West- South- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 221 

West two miles, and sounded in twenty-four feet 
water. Here the river narrowed and the current 
increased. We then continued our course North- 
North- West three quarters of a mile, a small river 
falling in from the North- East. It now veered to 
South by West one mile and a quarter, West- 
South -West four miles and a half, West by North 
one mile and a quarter, North- West by West one 
mile. West a mile and a quarter: the land was high 
on both sides, and the river narrowed to an hun- 
dred and fifty, or two hundred yards ; North- West 
three quarters of a mile. South- West by South two 
miles and a half : here its breadth again increased; 
South by West one mile. West- South- West half 
a mile, South- West by South three miles, South- 
South-East one mile, with a small river running in 
from the left, South with a strong current one 
mile, then East three quarters of a mile, South- 
West one mile. South- South- East a mile and a 
half; the four last distances being a continual rapid, 
South-West by West one mile. East North-East 
a mile and a half, East- South- East one mile where 
a small river flowed in on the right ; South-West 
by South two miles and a half, when another small 
river appeared from the same quarter ; South by 
East half a mile and South-West by West one mile 
and a quarter: here we landed for the night. When 
we had passed the last river we observed smoke 
rising from it, as if produced by fires that had been 
fresh lighted ; I therefore concluded that there 
were natives on its banks ; but I was unw^illing to 
fatigue my people, by pulling back against the 
current in order to go in search of them. 

This river appeared, from its high water-mark, 
to have fallen no more than one foot, while the 
smaller branch, from . similar measurement, had 
sunk two feet and a half. On our entering it, we 
saw a flock of ducks which were entirely white, 



222 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

except the bill and part of the wings. The wea- 
ther was cold and raw throughout the day, and 
the wind South-West. We saw a smoke rising 
in columns from many parts of the woods, and I 
should have been more anxious to see the natives, 
if there had been any person with me who could 
have introduced me to them; but as that object 
could not be then attained without considerable loss 
of time, I determined to pursue the navigation 
while it continued to be so favourable, and to wait 
till my return, if no very convenient opportunity 
offered in the mean time, to engage an intercourse 
with them. 

Wednesday^ 19. The morning was foggy, and 
at three we were on the water. At half past that 
hour, our course was East by South three quarters 
of a mile, a small river flowing in from the right. 
We then proceeded South by East half a mile, 
and South- South-West a mile and a half. Dur- 
ing the last distance, clouds of thick smoke rose 
from the woods, that darkened the atmosphere, 
accompanied with a strong odour of the gum of 
cypress and the spruce-fir. Our courses continu- 
ed to be South-West a mile and a quarter, North- 
West by West three quarters of a mile, South- 
South- East a mile and a quarter, East three quar- 
ters of a mile, South-West one mile, West by 
South three quarters of a mile, South- East by 
South three quarters of a mile, South by West 
half a mile. West by South three quarters of a 
mile. South by West two miles and a half. In 
the last course there was an island, and it appear- 
ed to me, that the main channel of the river had 
formerly been on the other side of it. The banks 
were here composed of high white cliffs, crowned 
with pinnacles in very grotesque shapes. We con- 
tinued to steer South- East by South a mile and a 
half, South by East half a mile, East one mile and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 223 

a quarter. South- East by East one mile, South 
by East three quarters of a mile, South-East by- 
East one mile, South- South- East half a mile, 
East one mile and a quarter, South by East half 
a mile, East a mile an half, South- South-East 
three miles, and South- West three quarters of a 
mile. In the last course the rocks contracted in 
such a manner on both sides of the river, as to 
afford the appearance of the upper part of a fall or 
cataract. Under this apprehension we landed on 
the left shore, where we found a kind of foot- 
path, imperfectly traced, through which w^e con- 
jectured that the natives occasionally passed with 
their canoes and baggage. On examining the 
course of the river, how^ever, there did not ap- 
pear to be any fall as we expected ; but the rapids 
were of a considerable length and impassable for a 
light canoe. We had therefore no alternative but 
to widen the road so as to admit the passage of 
our canoe, which was now carried with great diffi- 
culty ; as from her frequent repairs, and not al- 
ways of the usual materials, her Vv^eight w as such, 
that she cracked and broke on the shoulders of 
the men who bore her. The labour and fatigue 
of this undertaking, from eight till twelve, beg- 
gars all description, when we at length conquered 
this afflicting passage, of about half a mile, over 
a rocky and most rugged hill. Our course was 
South- South- West. Here I took a meridian alti- 
tude which gave me 53 » 42. 20. North latitude. 
We, however, lost some time to put our canoe in 
a condition to carry us onwards. Our course Avas 
South a quarter of a mile to the next carrying- 
place ; which was nothing more than a rocky 
point about twice the length of the canoe. From 
the extremity of this point to the rocky and almost 
perpendicular bank that rose on the opposite shore, 
is not more than forty or fifty yards. The great 



224 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

body of water, at the same time tumbling in suc- 
cessive cascades along the first carrying-place, 
rolls through this narrow passage in a very turbid 
current, and full of whirlpools. On the banks of 
the river there was great plenty of wild onions, 
which when mixed up with our pemmican was a 
great improvement of it ; though they produced a 
physical effect on our appetites, which was rather 
inconvenient to the state of our provisions. 

Here we embiu*ked, and steered South- East by 
East three quarters of a mile. We now saw a 
smoke on the shore ; but before we could reach 
land the natives had deserted their camp, which 
appeared to be erected for no more than two fami- 
lies. My two Indians were instantly dispatched 
in search of them, and, by following their tracks, 
they soon overtook them ; but their language was 
mutually unintelligible ; and all attempts to pro- 
duce a friendly communication were fruitless. 
They no sooner perceived my young men than 
they prepared their bows and arrows, and made 
signs for them not to advance ; and they thought it 
prudent to desist from proceeding, though not be- 
fore the natives had discharged five arrows at them, 
which, however, they avoided, by means of the 
trees. When they returned with this account, I 
very much regretted that I had not accompanied 
them ; and as these people could not be at any very 
great distance, I took Mr. Mackay, and one of the 
Indians with me in order to overtake them ; bnt 
they had got so far it would have been imprudent 
in me to have followed them. My Indians, who, 
I believe, were terrified at the manner in which 
these natives received them, informed me, that, 
besides their bows, arrows, and spears, they were 
armed with long knives, and that they accompanied 
their strange antics with menacing actions and 
loud shoutings. On my return, I found my peo- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 225 

pie indulging their curiosity in examining the bags 
and baskets which the natives had left behind them. 
Some of them contained their fishing tackle, such 
as nets, lines, &c. others of a smaller size were 
filled with a red earth, with which they paint them- 
selves. In several of the bags there were also sun- 
dry articles of which we did not know the use. I 
prevented my men from taking any of them ; and 
for a few articles of mere curiosity, which I took 
myself, I left such things in exchange as would be 
much more useful to their owners. 

At four we left this place, proceeding with the 
stream South-East three quarters of a mile, East- 
South-East one mile, South three quarters of a 
mile, South- South- West one mile. South by East 
three quarters of a mile. South- South-East one 
mile, South- South- West two miles, South-South- 
East three miles and a quarter, East by North one 
mile, South- South- East one mile and a quarter, 
with a rapid. South- South- West three quarters of 
a mile. South one mile and a half, South-East one 
mile and a quarter. South three quarters of a mile, 
and South- South-East one mile and a half. At 
half past seven we landed for the night, where a 
small river flowed in from the right. The wea- 
ther was show^ery, accompanied with several loud 
claps of thunder. The banks were overshadowed 
by lofty firs, and wide-spreading cedars. 

Thursday^ 20. The morning was foggy, and 
at half past four we proceeded with a South wind, 
South-East by East two miles. South- South- East 
two miles and a half, and South- South- West two 
miles. The fog was so thick, that we could not 
see the length of our canoe, which rendered our 
progress dangerous, as we might have come sud- 
denly upon a cascade or violent rapid. Our next 
course was West-North-West two miles and a 
half, which comprehended a rapid. Being close 



226 JOURNAL Ot A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

in with the left bank of the river, we perceived 
two red deer at the very edge of the water : we 
killed one of them, and wounded the other, which 
was very small. We now landed, and the In- 
dians followed the wounded animal, which they 
soon caught, and would have shot another in the 
woods, if our dog, who followed them, had not 
disturbed it. From the number of their tracks it 
appeared that they abounded in this country. They 
are not so large as the elk of the Peace River, but 
are the real red deer, which I never saw in the 
North, though I have been told that they are to 
be found in great numbers in the plains along the 
Red, or Assiniboin River. The bark had been 
stripped off many of the spruce trees, and carried 
away, as I presumed, by the natives, for the pur- 
pose of covering their cabins. We now got the 
venison on board, and continued our voyage 
South- West one mile. South a mile and a half, 
and West one mile. Here the country changed 
its appearance ; the banks were but of a moderate 
height, from whence the ground continued gra- 
dually rising to a considerable distance, covered 
with poplars and cypresses, but without any kind 
of underwood. There are also several low points 
which the river, that is here about three hundred 
yards in breadth, sometimes overflows, and are 
shaded with the liard, the soft birch, the spruce, 
and the willow. For some distance before w^e 
came to this part of the river, our view was con- 
fined within very rugged, irregular, and lofty 
banks, which were varied with the poplar, differ- 
ent kinds of spruce fir, small birch trees, cedars, 
alders, and several species of the willow. Our 
next course was South- West by West six miles, 
when we landed at a deserted house, which wss 
the only Indian habitation of this kind that I had 
seen on this side of Mechilimakina. It was about 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 227 

thirty feet long and twenty wide, with three doors, 
three feet high by one foot and an half in breadth. 
From this and other circumstances, it appears to 
have been constructed for three families. There 
vV*ere also three fire-places, at equal distances from 
each other ; and the beds were on either side of 
them. Behind the beds was a narrow space, in 
the form of a manger, and somewhat elevated, 
which was appropriated to the purpose of keeping 
fish. The wall of the house, which was five feet 
in height, was formed of very strait spruce tim- 
bers, brought close together, and laid into each 
other at the corners. The roof was supported by 
a ridge pole, resting on two upright forks of 
about ten feet high ; that and the wall support a 
certain number of spars, which are covered with 
spruce bark ; and the whole attached and secured 
by the fibres of the cedar. One of the gable ends 
is closed with split boards ; the other with poles. 
Large rods are also fixed across the upper part of 
the building, where fish may hang and dry. To 
give the walls additional strength, upright posts 
are fixed in the ground, at equal distances, both 
within and without, of the same height as the 
wall, and firmly attached with bark fibres. Open- 
ings appear also between the logs in the wall, for 
the purpose, as I conjectured, of discharging their 
arrows at a besieging enemy ; they v/ould be need- 
less for the purpose of giving light, which is suf- 
ficiently afforded by fissures between the logs of 
the building, so that it appeared to be constructed 
merely for a summer habitation. There was no- 
thing further to attract our attention in or about 
the house, except a large machine, which must 
have rendered the taking off the roof absolutely 
necessary, in order to have introduced it. It v/as 
of a cylindrical form, fifteen feet long, and four 
feet and an half in diameter; one end was square, 

3 A 



22S JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

like the head of a cask, and a conical machine was- 
fixed inwards to the other end, of similar dimen- 
sions ; at the extremity of which was an opening 
of about seven inches diameter. This machine 
was certainly contrived to set in the river, to catch 
large fish ; and very well adapted to that purpose ; 
as when they are once in, it must be impossible 
for them to get out, unless they should have 
strength sufficient to break through it. It was 
made of long pieces of split Avood, rounded to the 
size of a small finger, and placed at the distance 
of an inch asunder, on six hoops ; to this was 
added a kind of boot of the same materials, into 
which it may be supposed that the fish are driven, 
when they are to be taken out. The house was 
left in such apparent order as to mark the design 
of its owners to return thither. It answered in 
every particular the description given us by our 
late guide, except that it was not situated on an 
island. 

We left this place, and steered South by East 
one mile and a quarter when we passed wher^ 
there had been another house, of which the ridge- 
pole and supporters alone remained : the ice had 
probably carried away the body of it. The bank 
was at this time covered with water, and a small 
river flowed in on the left. On a point we ob- 
served an erection that had the appearance of a 
tomb ; it was in an oblong form, covered, and very 
neatly walled with bark. A pole was fixed near 
it, to which, at the height of ten or twelve feet, a 
piece of bark was attached, which was probably 
a memorial, or symbol of distinction. Our next 
course was South by West two miles and a half, 
when we saw a house on an island, South-Easl 
by East one mile and three quarters, in which 
we observed another island, with a house upon- 
it. A river also flowed from the right, and the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 22^ 

land was high and rocky, and wooded with the 
epinette. 

Our canoe was now become so crazy that it was 
a matter of absolute necessity to construct another; 
and as from the appearance of the country there 
was reason to expect that bark was to be found, 
we landed at eight, with the hope of procuring it. 
I accordingly dispatched four men with that com- 
mission, and at twelve they returned with a suffi- 
cient quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of 
iive fathom in length, and four feet and a half in 
height. At noon I had an observation, which 
gave me 53. 17. 28. North latitude. 

We now continued our voyage South- East by 
South one mile and a half, East-South-East one 
mile, East-North- East half a mile, South-East 
two miles, South-East by South one mile, South- 
East six miles, and East-North- East. Here the 
river narrows between steep rocks, and a rapid 
succeeded, which was so violent that we did not 
venture to run it. I therefore ordered the loading 
to be taken out of the canoe, but she was now be- 
come so heavy that the men preferred running the 
rapid to the carrying her overland. Though I did 
not altogether approve of their proposition, I was 
unwilling to oppose it. Four of them undertook 
this hazardous expedition, and I hastened to the 
foot of the rapid with great anxiety, to wait the 
event, which turned out as 1 expected. The wa- 
ter was so strong, that although they kept clear of 
the rocks, the canoe filled, and in this state they 
drove half way down the rapid, but fortunately she 
did not overset ; and having got her into an eddy, 
they emptied her, and in an half-drowned condi- 
tion arrived safe on shore. The carrying-place is 
about half a mile over, with an Indian path across 
it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, saw some deer 
on an island above the rapid ; and had that disco- 



230 JOURNAL OV A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

very been made before the departure of the canoe, 
there is little doubt but we should have added a 
considerable quantity of venison to our stock of 
provisions. Our vessel was in such a wretched 
condition, as I have already observed, that it occa- 
sioned a delay of three hours to put her in a condi- 
tion to proceed. At length we continued our for- 
mer course, East-North- East a mile and a half, 
when we passed an extensive Indian encampment ; 
East-South-East one mile, where a small river ap- 
peared on the left ; South- P^ast by South one mile 
and three quarters. East by South half a mile, East 
by North one mile, and saw another house on an 
island ; South half a mile, West three quarters of 
a mile, South- West half a mile, where the cliffs 
of white and red clay appeared like the ruins of an- 
cient castles. Our canoe now veered gradually to 
East-North-East one mile and a half, when we 
landed in a storm of rain and thunder, where we 
perceived the remains of Indian houses. It was 
impossible to determine the wind in any part of the 
day, as it came a-head in all our directions. 

Friday^ 21. As I was very sensible of the dif- 
ficulty of procuring provisions in this country, I 
thought it prudent to guard against any possibility 
of dissress of that kind on our return ; I therefore 
ordered ninety pounds weight of pemmican to be 
buried in a hole, sufficiently deep to admit of a 
fire over it without doing any injury to our hidden 
treasure, and which would, at the same time, se- 
cure it from the natives of the country, or the wild 
animals of the woods. 

The morning was very cloudy, and at four 
o'clock we renewed our voyage, steering South by 
East one mile and a quarter. East- South-East half 
a mile, South by East one mile and a half, East 
half a mile, South-East two miles, where a large 
river flowed in from the left, and a smaller one from 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 231 

the right. We then continued South by West 
three quarters of a mile, East by South a mile and 
a half, South three quarters of a mile, South-East 
by East one mile, South by East half a mile, South 
East three quarters of a mile, South-East by South 
h^lf a mile, South-East by East half a mile, the 
cliffs of blue and yellow clay, displaying the same 
grotesque shapes as those which we passed yes- 
terday, South- South-East a mile and a half, South 
by East two miles. The latitude by observatiou 
was 52. 47. 51. North. 

Here we perceived a small new canoe, that had 
been drawn up to the edge of the woods, and soon 
after another appeared, with one man in it, which 
came out of a small river. He no sooner saw us 
than he gave the vA'hoop to alarm his friends, who 
immediately appeared on the bank, armed with 
bows and arrows, and spears. They were thinly 
habited, and displayed the most outrageous antics. 
Though they were certainly in a state of great ap- 
prehension, they manifested by their gestures that 
they were resolved to attack us, if we should ven- 
ture to land. I therefore ordered the men to stop 
the way of the canoe, and even to check her drift- 
ing withlhe current, as it would have been ex- 
treme folly to have approached these savages be- 
fore their fury had in some degree subsided. My 
interpreters, who understood their language, in- 
formed me that they threatened us with instant 
death if we drew nigh the shore ; and they follow^- 
ed the menace by discharging a volley of arrows, 
some of which fell short of the canoe, and others 
passed over it, so that they fortunately did us no 
injury. 

As we had been carried by the current below the 
spot where the Indians were, I ordered my people 
to paddle to the opposite side of the river, without 
the least appearance of confusion, so that they 



252 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

brought me abreast of them. My interpreters, 
while we were within hearing, had done every 
thing in their power to pacify them, but in vain. 
We also observed that they had sent off a canoe 
with two men, down the river, as we concluded, 
to communicate their alarm, and procure assist- 
ance. This circumstance determined me to leave 
no means untried that might engage us in a friendly 
intercourse with them, before they acquired addi- 
tional security and confidence, by the arrival of their 
relations and neighbours, to whom their situation 
would be shortly notified. 

I therefore formed the following adventurous 
project, which was happily crowned with success. 
I left the eanoe, and walked by myself along the 
beach, in order to induce some of the natives to 
come to me, which I imagined they might be dis- 
posed to do, when they saw me alone, without any 
apparent possibility of receiving assistance from 
my people, and would consequently imagine that a 
communication with me was not a service of dan- 
ger. At the same time, in order to possess the 
utmost security of which my situation was suscep- 
tible, I directed one of the Indians to slip into the 
woods, with my gun and his own, and«to conceal 
himself from their discovery ; he also had orders 
to keep as near me as possible, without being seen ; 
and if any of the natives should venture across, 
and attempt to shoot me from the water, it was 
his instructions to lay him low : at the same time 
he was particularly enjoined not to fire till I had 
discharged one or both of the pistols that I carried 
in my belt. If, however, any of them were to land, 
and approach my person, he was immediately to 
join me. In the mean time my other interpreter 
assured them that we entertained the most friendly 
dispositions, which I confirmed by such signals as 
I conceived would be comprehended by them. I 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 233 

had not, indeed, been long at my station, and my 
Indian in ambush behind me, when two of the 
natives came off in a canoe, but stopped when they 
had got within a hundred yards of me. I made 
signs for them to hmd, and as an inducement, dis- 
played looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring 
trinkets. At length, but with every mark of ex- 
treme apprehension, they approached the shore, 
stern foremost, hut w^ould not venture to land. I 
now made them a present of some beads, wdth 
which they were going to push off, when I renew- 
ed my entreaties, and, after some time, prevailed 
on them to come ashore, and sit down by me. My 
hunter now thought it right to join me, and created 
some alarm in my new acquaintance. It w^as, how- 
ever, soon removed, and I had the satisfaction to 
find, that he and these people perfectly understood 
each other. I instructed him to say every thing 
that might tend to sooth their fears and win their 
confidence. I expressed my wish to conduct them 
to our canoe, but they declined my offer; and when 
they observed some of my people coming towards 
us, they requested me to let them return ; and I 
was so well satisfied with the progress I had made 
in my intercourse with them, that I did not hesitate 
a moment in complying with their desire. Dur- 
ing their short stay, they observed us, and every 
thing about us, with a mixture of admiration and 
astonishment. We could plainly distinguish that 
their friends received them with great joy on their 
return, and that the articles which they carried 
back with them were examined with a general and 
eager curiosity ; they also appeared to hold a con- 
sultation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, 
and the result was, an invitation to come over to 
them, which was cheerfully accepted. Neverthe- 
less, on our landing they betrayed evident signs of 
confusion, which arose probably from the quick- 



234 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ness of our movements, as the prospect of a friend- 
ly communication had so cheered the spirits of my 
people, that they paddled across the river with the 
utmost expedition. The two men, however, who 
had been with us, appeared, very naturally, to pos- 
sess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, 
and were ready to receive us on our landing ; but 
our demeanour soon dispelled all their apprehen- 
sions, and the most familiar communication took 
place between us. When I had secured their con- 
fidence, by the distribution of trinkets among them, 
and treated the children with sugar, I instructed 
my interpreters to collect every necessary informa- 
tion in their power to afford me. 

According to their account, this river, whose 
course is very extensive, runs towards the mid-day 
sun ; and that at its mouth, as they had been in- 
formed, white people were building houses. They 
represented its current to be uniformly strong, and 
that in three places it was altogether impassable, 
from the falls and rapids, which poured along be- 
tween perpendicular rocks that were much higher, 
and more rugged, than any we had yet seen, and 
would not admit of any passage over them. But 
besides the dangers and difficulties of the naviga- 
tion, they added, that we should have to encounter 
the inhabitants of the country, who were very nu- 
merous. They also represented their immediate 
neighbours as a very malignant race, who lived in 
large subterraneous recesses ; and when they were 
made to understand that it was our design to pro- 
ceed to the sea, they dissuaded us from prosecuting 
our intention, as we should certainly become a 
sacrifice to the savage spirit of the natives. These 
people they described as possessing iron, arms, 
and utensils, which they procured from their 
neighbours to the Westward, and were obtained 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 235 

by a commercial progress from people like our- 
selves, who brought them in great canoes. 

Such an account of our situation, exaggerated 
as it might be in some points, and erroneous in 
others, was sufficiently alarming, and awakened 
very painful reflections: nevertheless it did not 
operate on my mind so as to produce any change 
in my original determination. My first object, 
therefore, was to persuade two of these people to 
accom.pany me, that they might secure to us a fa- 
vourable reception from their neighbours. To this 
proposition they assented, but expressed some 
degree of dissatisfaction at the immediate depar- 
ture, for which we were making preparation; but 
when we were ready to enter the canoe, a small 
one Avas seen doubling the point below, with three 
men in it. We thought it prudent to wait for their 
arrival, and they proved to be some of their rela- 
tions, who had received the alarm from the messen- 
gers, which I have already mentioned as having 
been sent down the river for that purpose, and who 
had passed on, as we were afterwards informed, to 
extend the notice of our arrival. Though these 
people saw us in the midst of their friends, they 
displayed the most menacing actions, and hostile 
postures. At length, however, this wild, savage, 
spirit appeared to subside, and they were persuaded 
to land. One of them, who w^as a middle aged 
person, whose agitations had been less frequent 
than those of his companions, and who was treated 
with particular respect by them all, inquired who 
we were, whence we came, whither we were 
going, and what was the motive of our coming into 
that country. When his friends had satisfied him 
as far as they were able, respecting us, he instantly 
advised us to delay our departure for that night, as 
their relations below, having been by this time 
alarmed by the messengers, who had been sent for 

3b 



236 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

that purpose, would certainly oppose our passage, 
notwithstanding I had two of their own people with 
me. He added, that they would all of them be 
here by sunset, when they would be convinced, as 
he was, that we were good people, and meditated 
no ill designs against them. 

Such were the reasons which this Indian urged 
in favour of our remaining till the next morning ; 
and they were too well founded for me to hesitate 
in complying with them ; besides, by prolonging 
my stay till the next morning, it was probable 
that I might obtain some important intelligence 
respecting the country through which I was to 
pass, and the people who inhabited it. I accor- 
dingly ordered the canoe to be unloaded, taken 
out of the water, and gummed. My tent was also 
pitched, and the natives were now become so fa- 
miliar, that I was obliged to let them know my 
wish to be alone and undisturbed. 

My first application to the native whom I have 
already particularly mentioned, was to obtain from 
him such a plan of the river as he should be ena- 
bled to give me ; and he complied with this re- 
quest with a degree of readiness and intelligence 
that evidently proved it was by no means a new 
business to him. In order to acquire the best in- 
formation he could communicate, I assured him, 
if I found his account correct, that I should either 
return myself, or send others to them, with such 
articles as they appeared to want : particularly 
arms and ammunition, with which they would be 
able to prevent their enemies from invading them. 
I obtained, however, no addition to what I already 
knew, but that the country below us, as far as he 
was acquainted with it, abounded in animals, and 
that the river produced plenty offish. 

Our canoe was now become so weak, leaky, and 
unmanageable, that it became a matter of absolute 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 237 

necessity to construct a new one ; and I had been 
informed, that if we delayed that important work 
till we got further down the river, we should not 
be able to procure bark. I therefore dispatched 
two of my people, with an Indian, in search of 
that necessary material. The weather was so 
cloudy that I could not get an observation.^ 

I passed the rest of the day in conversing with 
these people : they consisted of seven families, 
containing eighteen men , they were clad in lea- 
ther, and had some beaver and rabbit- skin blan- 
kets. They had not been long arrived in this part 
of the country, v/here they proposed to pass the 
summer, to catch fish for their winter provision : 
for this purpose they were preparing machines 
similar to that which we found in the first Indian 
house we saw and described. The fish which 
they take in them are large, and only visit this 
part of the river at certain seasons. These people 
differ very little, if at all, either in their appear- 
ance, language, or manners, from the Rocky- 
Mountain Indians. The men whom I sent in 
search of bark, returned with a certain quantity 
of it, but of a very indifferent kind. We were 
not gratified with the arrival of any of the natives 
whom we expected from a lower part of the river. 



* The observation, already mentioned, I got on my return. 



238 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Rene%v our voyage^ accompanied by nuo of the 
7iatroes. Account of courses. State of the 
river. Arrive at a subterranean house. See 
several natives. Brief description of theni^ 
Account of our conference voith them. Saw 
other natives. Description of them. Their 
conduct^ ^c. The account which they gave 
of ihe country. The narrative of a female 
prisoner. The perplexities of my situation. 
Specimen of the language of tvoo tribes. 
Change the plan of my journey. Return up 
the river. Succession of dangers and dificuU 
ties. Land on an island to build another 
canoe. 

June, 1793. 

Saturday, 22. AT six in the morning we 
proceeded on our voyage, with two of the Indians, 
one of them in a small pointed canoe, made after 
the fashion of the Esquimaux, and the other in 
our own. This precaution was necessary in a 
two-fold point of view, as the small canoe could 
be sent ahead to speak to any of the natives that 
might be seen down the river, and, thus divided, 
would not be easy for them both to make their 
escape. Mr. Mackay also embarked with the In- 
dian, which seemed to afford him great satisfac- 
tion, and he was thereby enabled to keep us com- 
pany with diminution of labour. 

Our courses were South- South-East a mile and 
a half, South-East half a mile, South by East 
four miles and a half, South-East by South half a 
mile, South by West half a mile. South East by 
East one mile, South- South- VV^est a mile and a 
half, South by East one mjle and a quarter. The 



KORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 239 

country, on the right, presented a very beautiful 
appearance ; it rose at first rather abruptly to the 
height of twenty-five feet, when the precipice was 
succeeded by an inclined plain to the foot of 
another steep ; which was followed by another 
extent of gently-rising ground : these objects, 
which were shaded with groves of fir, presenting 
themselves alternately to a considerable distance. 

We now landed near a house, the roof of which 
alone appeared above ground ; but it was deserted 
by its inhabitants who had been alarmed at our ap- 
proach. We observed several men in the second 
steep, who displayed the same postures and me- 
nacing actions as those which we have so lately des- 
cribed. Our conductors went to them immedi- 
ately on an embassy of friendship, and, after a 
very vociferous discourse, one of them was per- 
suaded to come to us, but presented a very fero- 
cious aspect : the rest, who w^ere seven in num- 
ber, soon followed his example. They held their 
bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in 
their garments, v/hich were fastened round the 
neck, but left the right arm free for action. A 
cord fastened a blanket or leather covering under 
the right armpit, so tha" it hung upon the left 
shoulder, and might be occasionally employed as 
a target, that would turn an arrow which was 
nearly spent. As soon as they had recovered from 
their apprehensions, ten women made their ap- 
pearance, but without any children, whom, I 
imagine, they had sent to a greater distance, to 
be out of the reach of all possible danger. I dis- 
tributed a few presents among them, and left my 
guides to explain to them the object of my jour- 
ney, and the friendliness of my designs, with 
which they had themselves been made acquainted ; 
their fears being at length removed, I gave them 
a specimen of the use to which w^e applied our fire- 



240 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

arms : at the same time, I calmed their astonish- 
ment, by the assurance, that, though we could at 
once destroy those who did us injury, we could 
equally protect those who shewed us kindness. 
Our stay here did not exceed half an hour, and we 
left these people with favourable impressions of 
us. 

From this place w^e steered East by North half 
a mile. South by East three quarters of a mile, and 
South by West a mile and a half, w hen we landed 
again on seeing some of the natives on the high 
ground, whose appearance was more wild and 
ferocious than any whom we had yet seen. Indeed 
I w^as under some apprehension that our guides, 
who went to conciliate them to us, would have 
fallen a prey to their savage fury. At length, how- 
ever they were persuaded to entertain a more fa- 
vourable opinion of us, and they approached us one 
after another, to the number of sixteen men, and 
several women, I shook hands with them all, and 
desired my interpreters to explain that salutation as 
a token of friendship. As this was not a place 
where we could remain with the necessary conve- 
nience, I proposed to proceed further, in search of 
a more commodious spot. They immediately in- 
vited us to pass the night at their lodges, which 
were at no great distance, and promised, at the 
same time, that they w^ould, in the morning, send 
two young men to introduce us to the next nation, 
who were very numerous, and ill-disposed towards 
strangers. As we were pushing from the shore, 
we Vv'ere very much surprised at hearing a woman 
pronounce several words in the Knisteneaux lan- 
guage. She proved to be a Rocky Mountain na- 
tive, so that my interpreters perfectly understood 
her. She informed us that her country is at the 
forks of this river, and that she had been taken pri- 
soner by the Knisteneaux, who had carried her 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 241 

across the mountains. After having passed the 
greatest 'part of the summer with them, she had 
contrived to escape, before they had reached their 
own country, and had re-crossed the mountains, 
when she expected to meet her own friends : but 
after suffering all the hardships incident to such a 
journey, she had been taken by a war-party of the 
people with whom she then was, who had driven 
her relations from the river into the mountains. 
She had since been detained by her present hus- 
band, of whom she had no cause to complain ; ne- 
vertheless she expressed a strong desire to return 
to her own people. I presented her with several 
useful articles, and desired her to come to me at 
the lodges, which she readily engaged to do. We 
arrived thither before the Indians, and landed, as 
we had promised. It was now near twelve at noon, 
but on attempting to take an altitude, I found the 
angle too great for my sextant. 

The natives whom we had already seen, and 
several others, soon joined us, with a greater num* 
ber of w^omen than I had yet seen ; but I did not 
observe the female prisoner among them. There 
were thirty-five of them, and my remaining store 
of presents was not sufficient to enable me to be 
very liberal to so many claimants. Among the 
men I found four of the adjoining nation, and a 
Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had been with them 
for some time. As he was understood by my in- 
terpreters, and was himself well acquainted with 
the language of the strangers, I possessed the 
means of obtaining every information respecting 
the country, which it might be in their power to 
aiford me. For this purpose I selected an elderly 
man, from the four strangers, whose countenance 
had preposssesed me in his favour. I stated to 
these people, as I had already done to those from 
whom I had hitherto derived information, the ob- 



U2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

jects of my voyage, and the very great advantages 
which they would receive from my successful ter- 
mination of it. They expressed themselves very 
much satisfied at mv communication, and assured 
me that they would not deceive me respecting the 
subject of my inquiry. An old man also, who ap- 
peared to possess the character of a chief, declared 
his wish to see me return to his land, and that his 
two young daughters should then be at my dis- 
posal. I now proceeded to request the native, 
whom I had particularly selected, to commence 
his information, by drawing a sketch of the coun- 
try upon a large piece of hark, and he immediately 
entered on the work, frequently appealing to, and 
sometimes asking the advice of, those around him. 
He described the river as running to the East of 
South, receiving many rivers, and every six or 
eight leagues encumbered with falls and rapids, 
some of which were very dangerous, and six of 
them impracticable. The carrying-places he re- 
presented as of great length, and passing over hills 
and mountains. He depicted the lands of three 
other tribes, in succession, who spoke different 
languages. Beyond them he knew nothing either 
of the river or country, only that it was still a long 
way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there- 
was a lake, before they reached the water, which 
the natives did not drink. As far as his know- 
ledge of the river extended, the country on either 
side was level, in many places Avithout wood, and 
abounding in red deer, and some of a small fallow 
kind. Few of the natives, he said, w ould come to 
the banks for some time ; but, that at a certain sea- 
son they would arrive there in great numbers, to 
fish. They now procured iron, brass, copper, and 
trinkets, from the Westward ; but formerly these 
articles were obtained from the lower parts of the 
river, though in small quantities. A knife was 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 243 

produced which had been brought from that quar- 
ter. The blade was ten inches long, and an inch 
and a half broad, but with a very blunted edge. 
The handle was of horn. We understood that this 
instrument had been obtained from white men, 
long before they had heard that any came to the 
Westward. One very old man observed, that as 
long as he could remember, he was told of white 
people to the Southward; and that he had heard, 
though he did not vouch for the truth of the report, 
that one of them had made an attempt to come up 
the river, and was destroyed. 

These people describe the distance across the 
country as very short to the Western ocean ; and, 
according to my own idea, it cannot be above five 
or six degrees. If the assertion of Mr. Mears be 
correct, it cannot be so far, as the inland sea which 
he mentions within Nootka, must come as far East 
as 126. West longitude. They assured us that 
the road was not difficult, as they avoided the 
mountains, keeping along the low lands between 
them, many parts of which are entirely free from 
wood. According to their account, this way is so 
often travelled by them, that their path is visible 
throughout the whole journey, which lies along 
small lakes and rivers. It occupied, them, they 
said, no more than six nights, to go to where they 
meet the people who barter iron, brass, copper, 
beads, &c. with them, for dressed leather, and 
beaver, bear, lynx, fox, and marten skins. The 
iron is about eighteen inches of two-inch bar. To 
this they give an edge at one end, and fix it to a 
handle at right angles, which they employ as an 
axe. When the iron is worn down, they fabricate 
it into points for their arrows and pikes. Before 
they procured iron they employed bone and horn 
for those purposes. The copper and brass they 
convert into collars, arm-bands, bracelets, and 

3 c 



244 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

other ornaments. They sometimes also point their 
arrows with those metals. They had been in- 
formed by those whom they meet to trade with, 
that the white people, from whom these articles are 
obtained, were building houses at the distance of 
three days, or two nights journey from the place 
where they met last fall. With this route they all 
appeared to be well acquainted. 

I now requested that they would send for the 
female prisoner whom I saw yesterday ; but I re- 
ceived only vague and evasive answers. They 
probably apprehended, that it was our design to 
take her from them. I was, however, very much 
disappointed at being prevented from having an 
interview with her, as she might have given me a 
correct account of the country beyond the forks 
of the river, as well as of the pass, through the 
mountains, from them. 

My people had listened with great attention to 
the relation which had been given me, and it seem- 
ed to be their opinion, that it would be absolute 
madness to attempt a passage through so many 
savage and barbarous nations. My situation may 
indeed, be more easily conceived than expressed : 
I had no more than thirty days provision remain- 
ing, exclusive of such supplies as I might obtain 
from the natives, and the toil of our hunters, which, 
however, was so precarious as to be matter of little 
dependence : besides, our ammunition would soon 
be exhausted, particularly our ball, of which we 
had not more than a hundred and fifty, and about 
thirty pound weight of shot, which, indeed, might 
be converted into bullets, though with great waste. 

The more I heard of the river, the more I was 
convinced it could not empty itself into the ocean 
to the North of what is called the river of the West, 
so that with its windings, the distance must be very 
great. Such being the discouraging circumstances 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 245 

of my situation, which were now heightened by 
the discontents of my people, I could not but be 
alarmed at the idea of attempting to get to the 
discharge of such a rapid river, especially when^ I 
reflected on the tardy progress of my return up it, 
even if I should meet with no obstruction from the 
natives ; a circumstance not very probable, from 
the numbers of them which would then be on the 
river, and M'hom I could have no opportunity of 
conciliating in my passage down, for the reasons 
which have been already mentioned. At all events, 
I must give up every expectation of returning this 
season to Athabasca. Such were my reflections 
at this period ; but instead of continuing to indulge 
them, I determined to proceed with resolution, and 
set future events at defiance. At the same time I 
suffered myself to nourish the hope that I might 
be able to penetrate with more safety, and in a 
shorter period, to the ocean by the inland western 
communication. 

To carry this project into execution I must have 
returned a considerable distance up the river, 
which would necessarily be attended with very 
serious inconvenience, if I passed over every other; 
as in a voyage of this kind, a retrograde motion 
could not fail to cool the ardour, slacken the zeal, 
and weaken the confidence of those, who have no 
greater inducement to the undertaking, than to 
follow the conductor of it. Such was the state of 
my mind at this period, and such the circumstances 
with which it was distressed and distracted. 

To the people who had given me the foregoing 
information I presented some beads, which they 
preferred to any other articles in my possession, 
and I recompensed in the same manner two of 
them who communicated to me the following vo- 
cabulary in the language of the Nagailer and Atnah 
tribes. 



246 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 





The Nagailer, 


The Atnah, 




or Carrier-Indians. 


or Chin-Indians. 


Eye, 


Nah, 


Thloustin. 


Hair, 


Thigah, 


Cahowdin. 


Teeth, 


Gough, 


Chliough. 


Nose, 


Nenzeh, 


Pisax. 


Head, 


Thie, 


Scapacay. 


Wood, 


Dckin, 


Shedzay. 


Hand, 


Lah, 


Calielha. 


Leg, 


Kin, 


Squacht, 


Tongue, 


Thoula, 


Dewhasjisk. 


Ear, 


Zach, 


Ithlinah. 


Man, 


Dinay, 


Scuyloch. 


Woman, 


Chiquoi 


Smosiedgensk 


Beaver, 


Zah, 


Schugh. 


Elk, 


Yezey, 


Ookoy-Beh. 


Dog, 


Sleing, 


Scacah. 


Ground-hog, 


Thidnu, 


Squaisquais. 


Iron, 


Thilisitch, 


Soucoumang. 


Fire, 


Coun, 


Teuck. 


Water, 


Tou, 


Shaweliquoih. 


Stone, 


Zeh, 


Ishehoinah. 


Bow, 


Nettuny, 


Isquoinah. 


Arrow, 


Igah, 


Squailai. 


Yes, 


Nesi, 


Amaig. 


Plains, 


Thoughoud, 


Spilela. 


Come here. 


Andezei, 


Thla-elyeh. 



The Atnah language has no affinity to any with 
which I am acquainted ; but the Nagailer differs 
very little from that spoken by the Beaver Indians, 
and is almost the same as that of the Chepewy- 
ans. 

We had a thunder-storm with heavy rain ; and 
in the evening when it had subsided, the Indians 
amused us with singing and dancing, in which 
they were joined by the young women. Four men 
now arrived whom we had not yet seen ; they had 
left their families at some distance in the country, 
and expressed a desire that we should visit them 
there. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 547 

Sunday, 23. After a restless night, I called the 
Indians together, from whom I yesterday recei- 
ved the intelligence which has been already men- 
tioned, in the hope that I might obtain some addi- 
tional information. From their former account 
they did not make the least deviation ; but they 
informed me further, that where they left this ri- 
ver, a small one from the Westward falls into it, 
which was navigable for their canoes during four 
days, and from thence they slept but two nights, 
to get to the people with whom they trade, and who 
have wooden canoes much larger than ours, in 
which they go down a river to the sea. They 
continued to inform me, that if I went that way 
we must leave our own canoe behind us ; but they 
thought it probable that those people would furnish 
us with another. From thence they stated the dis- 
tance to be only one day's voyage with the current 
to the lake whose water is nauseous, and where 
they had heard that great canoes came two winters 
ago, and that the people belonging to them, brought 
great quantities of goods and built houses. 

At the commencement of this conversation, I 
was very much surprised by the following question 
from one of the Indians : " What," demanded he, 
" can be the reason that you are so particular and 
anxious in your inquiries of us respecting a know- 
ledge of this country : do not you white men know 
every thing in the world ?" This interrogatory 
was so very unexpected, that it occasioned some 
hesitation before I could answer it. At length, 
however, I replied, that we certainly w^ere ac- 
quainted with the principal circumstances of every 
part of the world ; that I knew where the sea is, 
and where I myself then was, but that I did not 
exactly understand what obstacles might interrupt 
me in getting to it ; with wdiich, he and his rela- 
tions must be w^ell acquainted, as they had so fre- 



248 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

quently surmounted them. Thus I fortunately 
preserved the impression in their minds, of the 
superiority of white people over themselves. 

It was now, however, absolutely necessary that 
I should come to a final determination which route 
to take ; and no long interval of reflection was em- 
ployed, before I preferred to go over land : the 
comparative shortness and security of such a jour- 
ney, were alone sufficient to determine me. I ac- 
cordingly proposed to two of the Indians to accom- 
pany me, and one of them readily assented to my 
proposition, 

I now called those of my people about me, who 
had not been present at my consultation with the 
natives ; and after passing a warm eulogium on 
their fortitude, patience, and perseverance, I sta- 
ted the difficulties that threatened our continuing 
to navigate the river, the length of time it would 
require, and the scanty provision we had for such 
a voyage : I then proceeded for the foregoing rea- 
sons to propose a shorter route, by trying the over- 
land road to the sea. At the same time, as I knew 
from experience, the difficulty of retaining guides, 
and as many circumstances might occur to pre- 
vent our progress in that direction, I declared my 
resolution not to attempt it, unless they would en- 
gage, if we could not after all proceed over land, 
to return with me, and continue our voyage to the 
discharge of the waters, whatever the distance 
might be. At all events, I declared, in the most 
solemn manner, that I would not abandon my 
design of reaching the sea, if I made the attempt 
alone, and that I did not despair of returning in 
safety to my friends. 

This proposition met with the most zealous 
return, and they unanimously assured me, that 
they were as willing now as they had ever been, 
to abide by my resolutions, whatever they might 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 349 

be, and to follow me wherever I should go. I 
therefore requested them to prepare for an im- 
mediate departure, and at the same time gave 
notice to the man who had engaged to be our 
guide, to be in readiness to accompany us. When 
our determination to return up the river was made 
known, several of the natives took a very abrupt 
departure ; but to those who remained, I gave a 
few useful articles, explaining to them at the same 
time, the advantages that would result to them, 
if their relations conducted me to the sea, along 
such a road as they had described. I had already 
given a moose skin to some of the women for the 
purpose of making shoes, which were now brought 
us ; they were well sewed but ill shaped, and a 
few beads were considered as a sufficient remu- 
neration for the skill employed on them. Mr. 
Mackay, by my desire, engraved my name, and 
the date of the year on a tree. 

When we were ready to depart, our guide pro- 
posed, for the sake of expedition, to go over land 
to his lodge, that he might get there before us, to 
make some necessary preparation for his journey. 
I did not altogether relish his design, but was ob- 
liged to consent : I thought it prudent, however, 
to send Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians along 
with him. Our place of rendezvous, was the sub- 
terraneous house which we passed yesterday. 

At ten in the morning we embarked, and went 
up the current much faster than I expected with 
such a crazy vessel as that which carried us. We 
met our people at the house as had been appoint- 
ed ; but the Indian still continued to prefer going 
on by land, and it would have been needless for 
me to oppose him. He proceeded, therefore, with 
his former companions, whom I desired to keep 
him in good humour by every reasonable gratifi- 
cation. They were also furnished with a few ar- 



250 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

tides that might be of use if they should meet 
stranQ:ers. 

In a short time after we had left the house, I 
saw a wooden canoe coming down the river, with 
three natives in it, who, as soon as they perceived 
us, made for the shore, and hurried into the woods. 
On passing their vessel, we discovered it to be 
one of those which we had seen at the lodges. A 
severe gust of wind, with rain, came from the 
South- South- East. This we found to be a very 
prevalent wind in these parts. We soon passed 
another wooden canoe drawn stern foremost on the 
shore ; a circumstance w^hich we had not hitherto 
observed. The men worked very hard, and 
though I imagined we went a-head very fast, we 
could not reach the lodges, but landed for the 
night at nine, close to the encampment of two fa- 
milies of the natives whom we had formerly seen 
at the lodges. I immediately wxnt and sat down 
with them, when they gave some roasted fish ; two 
of my men who followed me were gratified also 
with some of their provisions. The youngest of 
the tvro natives now quitted the shed, and did not 
return during the time I remained there. I endea- 
voured to explain to the other by signs, the cause 
of my sudden return, which he appeared to under- 
stand. In the mean time my tent was pitched, and 
on my going to it, I was rather surprised that he 
did not follow me, as he had been constantly with 
me during the day and night I had passed with his 
party on going down. We, however, went to 
rest in a state of perfect security ; nor had we the 
least apprehension for the safety of our people who 
were gone by land. 

We were in our canoe by four this morning, and 
passed by the Indian hut, which appeared in a 
state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came in 
sight of the point where we first saw the natives, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 251 

and at eight were much surprised and disappoint- 
ed at seeing Mr. Mackay, and our two Indians 
coming alone from the ruins of a house that had 
been partly carried away by the ice and water, at 
a short distance below the place where we had ap- 
pointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and ap- 
prehension diminished by the alarm which was 
painted in their countenances. When we had 
landed, they informed me that they had taken re- 
fuge in that place, with the determination to sell 
their lives, which they considered in the most im- 
minent danger, as dear as possible. In a very 
short time after they had left us, they met a party 
of the Indians, whom we had known at this place, 
and were probably those whom we had seen to 
land from their canoe. They appeared to be in a 
state of extreme rage, and had their bows bent, 
with their arrows across them. The guide stop- 
ped to ask them some questions, which my people 
did not understand, and then set off with his ut- 
most speed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave 
him till they were both exhausted with running. 
When the young man came up, he then said, that 
some treacherous design was meditated against 
them, as he was induced to believe from the de- 
claration of the natives, who told him that they were 
going to do mischief, but refused to name the 
enemy. The guide then conducted them through 
very bad ways, as fast as they could run ; and 
when he w^as desired to slacken his pace, he an- 
swered that they might follow him in any manner 
they pleased, but that he was impatient to get to 
his family, in order to prepare shoes, and other 
necessaries, for his journey. They did not, how- 
ever, think it prudent to quit him, and he would 
not stop till ten at night. On passing a track that 
was but lately made, they began to be seriously 
alarmed, and on inquiring of the guide where 

3 D 



252 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

they were, he pretended not to understand them. 
They then all laid down, exhausted with fatigue, 
and without any kind of covering : they were cold, 
wet, and hungry, but dared not light a fire, from 
the apprehension of an enemy. This comfortless 
spot they left at the dawn of the day, and, on their 
arrival at the lodges, found them deserted ; the 
property of the Indians being scattered about, as 
if abandoned for ever. The guide then made two 
or three trips into the v/oods, calling aloud, and 
bellowing like a madman. At length he set off 
in the same direction as they came, and had not 
since appeared. To heighten their miser}^ as 
they did not find us at the place appointed, they con- 
cluded that we were all destroyed, and had already 
formed their plan to take to the woods, and cross 
in as direct a line as they could proceed, to the 
waters of the Peace River, a scheme which could 
only be suggested by despair. They intended to 
have waited for us till noon, and if we did not ap- 
pear by that time, to have entered without further 
delay on their desperate expedition. 

This alarm among the natives was a very unex- 
pected as well as perilous event, and my powers 
of conjecture were exhausted in searching for the 
cause of it. A general panic seized all around me, 
and any further prosecution of the voyage was 
now considered by them as altogether hopeless and 
impracticable. But without paying the least at- 
tention to their opinions or surmises, I ordered 
them to take every thing out of the canoe, except 
six packages : when that was done, I left four men 
to take care of the lading, and returned with the 
others to our camp of last night, where I hoped 
to find the tAvo men, with their families, whom 
we had seen there, and to be able to bring them to 
^lodge with us, when I should wait the issue of 
this mysterious business. This project, however, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 233 

was disappointed, for these people had quitted their 
sheds in the silence of the night, and had not taken 
a single article of their little property with them. 

These perplexing circumstances made a deep 
impression on my mind, not as to our immediate 
safety, for I entertained not the least apprehension 
of the Indians 1 had hitherto seen, even if their 
whole force should have been combined to attack 
us, but these untoward events seemed to threaten 
the prosecution of my journey; and I could not 
reflect on the possibility of such a disappointment 
but with sensations little short of agony. What- 
ever might have been the wavering disposition of 
the people on former occasions, they were now 
decided in their opinions as to the necessity of 
returning without delay; and when we camebackto 
them, their cry was — '' Let us re-embark, and be 
gone/' This, however, was not my design, and 
in a more peremptory tone than I usually employed, 
they were ordered to unload the canoe, and take 
her out of the water. On examining our property, 
several articles appeared to be missing, which the 
Indians must have purloined ; and among them 
were an axe, two knives, and the young men's bag 
of medicines. We now took a position that w as 
the best calculated for defence, got our arms in 
complete order, filled each man's flask of powder, 
and distributed an hundred bullets, which w^re all 
that remained, while some were employed in melt- 
ing down shot to make more. The weather was 
so cloudy, that I had not an opportunity of taking 
an observation. 

While w^e were employed in making these pre- 
parations, we saw an Indian in a canoe come down 
the river, and land at the huts, which he began to 
examine. On perceiving us he stood still, as if in 
a state of suspense, when I instantly dispatched 
one of my Indians towards him, but no per sua- 



254 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

sions could induce him to have confidence in us ; 
he even threatened that he would hasten to join his 
friends, who would come and kill us. At the con- 
clusion of this menace he disappeared. On the 
return of my young man, with this account of the 
interview, I pretended to discredit the whole, and 
attributed it to his own, apprehensions and alarms. 
This, however, he denied, and asked with a look 
and tone of resentment, whether he had ever told 
me a lie ? Though he was but a young man, he 
said, he had been on war excursions before he 
came with me, and that he should no longer con- 
sider me as a wise man, which he had hitherto 
done. 

To add to our distresses we had not an ounce of 
gum for the reparation of the canoe, and not one of 
the men had sufficient courage to venture into the 
woods CO collect it. In this perplexing situation I 
entertained the hope that in the course of the night 
some of the natives would return, to take away a 
part at least of the things which they had left ht- 
hind them, as they had gone away without the 
covering necessary to defend them from the wea- 
ther and the flies. I therefore ordered the canoe 
to be loaded, and dropped to an old house, one side 
of which, with its roof, had been carried away by 
the water; but the three remaining angles were 
sufficient to shelter us from the woods. I then 
ordered two strong piquets to be driven into the 
ground, to which the canoe was fastened, so that 
if we were hard pressed we had only to step on 
board and push off, We were under the necessity 
of Viiaking a smoke to keep off the swarms of flies, 
which would have otherwise tormented us; but 
we did not venture to excite a blaze, as it would 
have been a mark for the arrows of the enemy. 
Mr, Mackay and myself, with three men kept aU 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 255 

ternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they 
fancied. I took the iirst watch, and the others 
laid down in their clothes by us. I also placed a 
centinel at a small distance, who was relieved every 
hour. The weather was cloudy, with showers of 
rain. 

Tuesday^ 25. At one I called up the other 
watch, and laid down to a small portion of broken 
rest. At live I arose, and as the situation which 
we left yesterday was preferable to that which we 
then occupied, I determined to return to it. On 
our arrival Mr. Mackay informed me that the men 
had expressed their dissatisfaction to him in a very 
unreserved manner, and had in very strong terms 
declared their resolution to follow me no further 
in my proposed enterprize. I did not appear, 
however, to have received such communications 
from him, and continued to employ my whole 
thoughts in contriving means to bring about a re- 
conciliation with the natives, which alone would 
enable me to procure guides, without whose assist- 
ance it would be impossible for me to proceed, 
when my darling project would end in disap- 
pointment. 

At twelve we saw a man coming with the stream 
upon a raft, and he must have discovered us before 
we perceived him, as he was working very hard 
to get to the opposite shore, where he soon land- 
ed, and instantly fled into the woods. I now had 
a meridional altitude, which gave 60. 23. natural 
horizon (the angle being more than the sextant 
could measure with the artificial horizon) one mile 
and a half distant; and the eye five feet above the 
level of the water, gave 52. 47. 51. North lati- 
tude. 

While I was thus employed, the men loaded the 
canoe, without having received any orders from 
me, and as this was the first time they had ven- 



256 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

tured to act in such a decided manner, T naturally 
concluded that they had preconcerted a plan for 
their return. I thought it prudent, however, to 
take no notice of this transaction, and to wait the 
issue of future circumstances. At this moment 
our Indians perceived a person in the edge of the 
woods above us, and they were immediately dis- 
patched to discover who it was. After a short 
absence they returned with a young woman whom 
we had seen before : her language was not clearly 
comprehended by us, so that we could not learn 
from her, at least with any degree of certainty, the 
cause of this unfortunate alarm that had taken 
place among the natives. She told us that her er- 
rand was to fetch some things which she had left 
behind her ; and one of the dogs whom we found 
here, appeared to acknowledge her as his mistress. 
We treated her with great kindness, gave her 
something to eat, and added a present of such ar- 
ticles as we thought might please her. On her 
expressing a wish to leave us, we readily consent- 
ed to her departure, and indulged the hope that 
her reception ^vould induce the natives to return 
in peace, and give us an opportunity to convince 
them, that we had no hostile designs whatever 
against them. On leaving us, she went up the 
river, without taking a single article of her own, 
and the doo; followed. The wind was chan"reable 
throughout the day, and there were several showers 
in the course of it. 

Though a very apparent anxiety prevailed 
among the people for their departure, I appeared 
to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in the 
evening I ordered four men to step into the canoe, 
which had been loaded for several hours, and drop 
down to our guard -house, and my command w^as 
immediately obe3^ed : the rest of us proceeded 
there by land. When I was yet at a considerable 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 257 

distance from the house, and thought it impossi- 
ble for an arrow to reach it, having a bow and qui- 
ver in my hand, I very imprudently let fly an ar- 
row, when, to my astonishment and infinite alarm, 
I heard it strike a log of the house. The men who 
had just landed, imagined that they were attacked 
by an enemy from the woods. Their' confusion 
was in proportion to their imaginary danger, and 
on my arrival I found that the arrow had passed 
within a foot of one of the men ; though it had no 
point, the weapon, incredible as it may appear, 
had entered an hard, dry log of wood upwards of 
an inch. But this was not all : for the men readily 
availed themselves of this circumstance, to remark 
upon the danger of remaining in the power of a peo- 
ple possessed of such means of destruction. Mr. 
Mackay having the first watch, I laid myself down 
in my cloak. 

JVe dues day ^26. At midnight a rustling noise was 
heard in the woods which created a general alarm, 
and I was awakened to be informed of the circum- 
stance, but heard nothing. At one I took my turn of 
the watch, and our dog continued unceasingly to run 
backwards and forwards along the skirts of the 
wood in a state of restless vigilance. At two in 
the morning the centinel informed me, that he saw 
something like an human figure creeping along on 
all-fours about fifty paces above us. After some 
time had passed in our search, I at length disco- 
vered that his information was true, and it appear- 
ed to me that a bear had occasioned the alarm ; 
but when day appeared, it proved to be an old, 
grey-haired, blind man, who had been compelled 
to leave his hiding-place by extreme hunger, be- 
ing too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to 
whom he belonged. When I put my hand on this 
object of decaying nature, his alarm was so great, 
that J expected it would have thrown him into 



258 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

convulsions. I immediately led him to our fire 
which had been just lighted, and gave him some- 
thing to eat, which he much wanted, as he had not 
tasted food for two days. When his hunger was 
satisfied, and he had got warm and composed, I 
requested him to acquaint me with the cause of 
that alarm which had taken place respecting us 
among his relations and friends, whose regard we 
appeared to have conciliated but a few days past. 
He replied, that very soon after we had left them, 
some natives arrived from above, who informed 
them that we w^ere enemies ; and our unexpected 
return, in direct contradiction to our own declara- 
tions, confirmed them in that opinion. They were 
now, he said, so scattered, that a considerable time 
would elapse, before they could meet again. We 
gave him the real history of our return, as well as 
of the desertion of our guide, and, at the same time, 
stated the impossibility of our proceeding, unless 
we procured a native to conduct us. He replied, 
that if he had not lost his sight, he would with the 
greatest readiness have accompanied us on our 
journey. He also confirmed the accounts which 
we had received of the country, and the route to the 
Westward. I did not neglect to employ every ar- 
gument in my power, that he might be persuaded 
of our friendly dispositions to the inhabitants 
w^heresoever we might meet them. 

At sun-rise we perceived a canoe with one man 
in it on the opposite side of the river, and at our 
request, the blind man called to him to come to 
us, but he returned no answer, and continued his 
course as fast as he could paddle down the cur- 
rent. He was considered as a spy by my men, and 
I W3.S confirmed in that opinion, when I saw a 
wooden canoe drifting with the stream close in to 
the other shore, where it was more than probable 
that some of the natives might be concealed. It 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 259 

might, therefore, have been an useless enterprise, 
or perhaps fatal to the future success of our under- 
taking, if we had pursued these people, as they 
might, through fear have employed their arms 
against us, and provoked us to retaliate. 

The old man informed me, that some of the 
natives whom I had seen here were gone up the 
river, and those whom I saw below had left their 
late station to gather a root in the plains, which, 
when dried, forms a considerable article in their 
winter stock of provisions. He had a woman, he 
said, with him, who used to see us walking along 
the small adjoining river, but when he called her 
he received no answer, so that she had probably 
fled to join her people. He informed me, also, 
that he expected a considerable number of his 
tribe to come on the upper part of the river to 
catch fish for their present support, and to cure 
them for their winter store ; among whom he had 
a son and two brothers. 

In consequence of these communications, I 
deemed it altogether unnecessary to lose any more 
time at this place, and I informed the old man that 
he must accompany me for the purpose of intro- 
ducing us to his friends and relations, and that if 
we met with his son or brothers, I depended upon 
him to persuade them, or some of their party, to 
attend us as guides in our meditated expedition. 
He expressed his wishes to be excused from this 
service, and in other circumstances we should not 
have insisted on it, but, situated as were, vv*e 
could not yield to his request. 

At seven in the morning we left this place, which 
I named Deserter's River or Creek. Our blind 
guide was, however, so averse to continuing with 
us, that I was under the very disagreeable neces- 
sity of ordering the men to carry him into the 

3 E 



260 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THUOUGH THE 

canoe ; and this was the first act during my voyage, 
that had the semblance of violent dealing. He 
continued to speak in a very loud tone, v^^hile he 
remained, according to his conjecture, near enough 
to the camp to be heard, but in a language that 
our interpreters did not understand. On asking 
him what he said, and why he did not speak in a 
language known to us, he replied, that the woman 
understood him better in that which he spoke, and 
he requested her, if she heard him, to come for 
him to the carrying-place, where he expected we 
should leave him. 

At length our canoe was become so leaky, that 
it was absolutely unfit for service ; and it was the 
unremitting employment of one person to keep 
her clear of water : we, therefore, inquired of the 
old man where we could conveniently obtain the 
articles necessary to build a new one ; and we un- 
derstood from him that, at some distance up the 
river, we should find plenty of bark and cedar. 

At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we saw a 
small canoe coming down with two men in it. We 
thought it would be impossible for them to escape » 
and therefore sruck off from the shore with a de- 
sign to intercept them, directing the old man at 
the same time to address them ; but they no sooner 
perceived us, than they steered into the strength 
of the current, where I thought that they must 
inevitably perish ; but their attention appeared to 
be engrossed by the situation of their canoe, and 
they escaped without making us the least reply. 

About three in the afternoon we perceived a 
lodge at the entrance of a considerable river on the 
right, as well as the tracks of people in the mud 
at the mouth of a small river on the left. As they 
appeared to be fresh, w^e landed, and endeavoured 
to trace them, but without success. We then 



KORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 26 i 

crossed over to the lodge, which was deserted, but 
all the usual furniture of such buildings remained 
untouched. 

Throughout the whole of this day the men had 
been in a state of extreme ill-humour, and as they 
did not choose openly to vent it upon me, they 
disputed and quarrelled among themselves. About 
sun-set the canoe struck upon the stump of a tree, 
which broke a large hole in her bottom ; a circum- 
stance that gave them an opportunity to let loose 
their discontents without reserve. Heft them as soon 
as we had landed, and ascended an elevated bank, 
in a state of mind which I scarce wish to recollect, 
and shall not attempt to describe. At this place 
there was a subterraneous house, where I deter- 
mined to pass the night. The water had risen 
since we had passed down, and it was with the 
utmost exertion that we came up several points m 
the course of the day. 

We embarked at half past four, with very favou- 
rable weather, and at eight we landed, where there 
was an appearance of our being able to procure 
bark ; we, however, obtained but a small quantity. 
At twelve we went on shore again, and collected as 
much as was necessary for our purpose. It now re- 
mained for us to fix on a proper place for building 
another canoe, as it was impossible to proceed with 
our old one, which was become an absolute wreck. 
At five in the afternoon we came to a spot well 
adapted to the business in which w€ were about to 
engage. It was on a small island not much en- 
cumbered with wood, though there was plenty of 
the spruce kind on the opposite land, which was 
only divided from us by a small channel. We now 
landed, but before the canoe was unloaded, and 
the tent pitched, a violent thunder-storm came on, 
accompanied with rain, which did not subside till 



262 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the night had closed in upon us. Two of our men 
who had been in the woods for axe-handles, saw 
a deer, and one of them shot at it, but unluckily 
missed his aim. A net was also prepared and set 
in the eddy at the end of the island. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 263 



CHAPTER VII. 

Make preparations to build a canoe. Engage iri 
that important %vork. It proceeds %vith great 
expedition. The guide %vho had deserted ar- 
rives ivith another Indian. He communicates 
agreeable intelligence. They take an opportu- 
nity to quit the island. Complete the canoe. 
Leave the island^ vohich was now named the 
Canoe Island. Obliged to put the people on 
short allowance. Jccount of the navigation. 
Difficult ascent of a rapid. Fresh perplexities. 
Continue our voyage up the river. Meet the 
guide and some of his friends. Conceal some 
pemmican and other articles. Make prepara- 
tions for proceeding over land. Endeavour to 
secure the caiioe till our return. Proceed on 
our journey. Various circumstances of it, 

June, 1793. 

Friday, 28. AT a very early hour of the morn- 
ing every man was employed in making prepara- 
tions for building another canoe, and different 
parties went in search of wood, watape, and gum. 
At two in the afternoon they all returned success- 
ful, except the collectors of gum, and of that arti- 
cle it was feared we should not obtain here a suffi- 
cient supply for our immediate wants. After a 
necessary portion of time allotted for refreshment, 
each began his respective work. I had an altitude 
at noon, which made us in S2>, 2, 32. North lati- 
tude. 

Saturday, 29. The weather continued to be fine. 
At five o'clock we renewed our labour, and the 
canoe was got in a state of considerable forward- 
ness. The conductor of the work, though a good 
man, was remarkable for the tardiness of his ope-. 



S64 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

rations, whatever they might be, and more dispos- 
ed to eat than to be active; I therefore took this 
opportunity of unfolding my sentiments to him, 
and thereby discovering to all around me the real 
state of my mind, and the resolutions I had formed 
for my future conduct. After reproaching him 
for his general inactivity, but particularly on the 
present occasion, when our time was so precious, 
I mentioned the apparent want of economy, both 
of himself and his companions, in the article of 
provisions. I informed him that I was not altoge- 
ther a stranger to their late conversations, from 
whence I drew the conclusion that they wished to 
put an end to the voyage. If that were so, I ex- 
pressed my wish that they would be explicit, and 
tell me at once of their determination to follow mc 
no longer. I concluded, however, by assuring 
him, that whatever plan they had meditated to pur- 
sue, it was my fixed and unalterable determination 
to proceed, in spite of every difficulty that might 
oppose, or danger that should threaten me. The 
man was very much mortified at my addressing 
this remonstrance particularly to him; and replied 
that he did not deserve my displeasure more than 
the rest of them. My object being answered, the 
conversation dropped, and the work went on. 

About two in the afternoon one of the men per- 
ceived a canoe with two natives in it, coming along 
the inside of the island, but the water being shal- 
low, it turned back, and we imagined that on per- 
ceiving us they had taken the alarm ; but we were 
agreeably surprised on seeing them come up the 
outside of the island, when we recognised our 
guide, and one of the natives whom we had alrea- 
dy seen. The former began immediately to apo- 
logize for his conduct, and assured me that since 
he had left me, his whole time had been employ- 
ed in searching after his family, who had been 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 265 

seized with the general panic, that had hcevk 
occasioned by the false reports of the people 
who had first fled from us. He said it was gene- 
rally apprehended by the natives, that we had been 
unfriendly to their relations above, who were ex- 
pected upon the river in great numbers at this 
time : and that many of the Atnah or Chin nation, 
had come up the river to where we had been, in 
the hope of seeing us, and were very much dis- 
pleased with him and his friends for having neglect- 
ed to give them an early notice of our arrival there. 
He added, that the two men whom we had seen yes- 
terday, or the day before, were just returned from 
their rendezvous, with the natives of the sea coast, 
and had brought a message from his brother-in-law, 
that he had a new axe for him, and not to forget to 
bring a moose-skin dressed in exchange, which he 
actually had in his canoe. He expected to meet him, 
he said, at the other end of the carrying-place. 

This was as pleasing intelligence as we had rea- 
son to expect, and it is almost superfluous to ob- 
serve that we stood in great need of it. I had a 
meridian altitude, which gave 53, 3. 7. North 
latitude. I also took time in the fore and after- 
noon, that gave a mean of 1. 37. 42. Achrome- 
ter slow apparent time, which, with an observed 
immersion of Jupiter's first satellite, made our lon- 
gitude 122. 48. West of Greenwich. 

The blind old man gave a very favourable ac- 
count of us to his friends, and they all three were 
very merry together during the whole of the after- 
noon. That our guide, however, might not escape 
from us during the night, I determined to watch 
him. 

Sunday, 30. Our strangers conducted them- 
selves with great good humour throughout the 
day. According to their information, we should 
find their friends above and below the carrying- 



266 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

place. They mentioned, also, that some of them 
were not of their tribe, but are allied to the peo- 
ple of the sea coast, who trade with the white men. 
I had a meridian altitude, that gave 53. 3. 17. 
North latitude. 

Jid'^. Monday^ 1. Last night I had the first 
watch, when one of my Indians proposed to sit up 
with me, as he understood, from the old man's 
conversation, that he intended, in the course of 
the night, to make his escape. Accordingly, at 
eleven I extinguished my light, and sat quiety in 
my tent, from whence I could observe the motions 
of the natives. About twelve, though the night 
was rather dark, I observed the old man creeping 
on his hands and knees towards the water-side. 
We accordingly followed him very quietly to the 
canoe, and he would have gone away with it, if he 
had not been interrupted in his design. On up- 
braiding him for his treacherous conduct, when 
he had been treated with so much kindness by us, 
he denied the intention of which we accused him, 
and. declared that his sole object was to assuage 
his thirst. At length, however, he acknowledged 
the truth, and when we brought him to the fire, 
his friends, who now awoke, on being informed of 
what had passed, reprobated his conduct, and asked 
him how he could expect that the white people 
would return to this country, if they experienced 
such ungrateful treatment. The guide said, for 
his part, he was not a woman, and would never run 
away through fear. But notwithstanding this 
courageous declaration, at one I awakened Mr. 
Mackay, related to him what had passed, and re- 
quested him not to indulge himself in sleep, till I 
should rise. It was seven before I awoke, and on 
quitting my tent I was surprised at not seeing the 
guide and his companion, and my apprehensions 
were increased when I observed that the canoe was 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 267 

removed from its late situation. To my inquiries 
after them, some of the men very composedly an- 
swered, that they were gone up the river, and had 
left the old man behind them. Mr. Mackay also 
told me, that while he was busily employed on the 
canoe, they had got to the point before he had ob- 
served their departure. The interpreter now 
informed me that at the dawn of day the guide had 
expressed his design, as soon as the sun vv^as up, 
to go and wait for us, where he might find his 
friends. I hoped this might be true; but that my 
people should suffer them to depart without giving 
me notice, was a circumstance that awakened very 
painful reflections in my breast. The weather was 
clear in the forenoon. My observation this day 
gave 53. 3. 32. North latitude. 

At five in the afternoon our vessel was comple- 
ted, and ready for service. She proved a stronger 
and better boat than the old one, though had it not 
been for the gum obtained from the latter, it would 
have been a matter of great difficulty to have pro- 
cured a sufficiency of that article to have prevented 
her from leaking. The remainder of the day was 
employed by the people in cleaning and refreshing 
themselves, as they had enjoyed no relaxation from 
their labour since we landed on this spot. 

The old man having manifested for various and 
probably very fallacious reasons, a very great aver- 
sion to accompany us any further, it did not appear 
that there was any necessity to force his inclina- 
tion. We now put our arms in order, which was 
soon accomplished, as they were at all times a ge- 
neral object of attention. 

Tuesday, 2. It rained throughout the night, 
but at half past three we were ready to embark, 
when I offered to conduct the old man where he 
had supposed we should meet his friends, but he 
declined the proposition. I therefore directed a 
3 F 



268 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

few pounds of pemmican to be left with him, for 
his immediate support, and took leave of him and 
the place, which I named Canoe Island. During 
our stay there we had been most cruelly tormented 
by flies, particularly the sand-fly, which I am dis- 
posed to consider as the most tormenting insect of 
its size in nature. I was also compelled to put 
the people upon short allowance, and confine them 
to two meals a- day, a regulation peculiarly offen- 
sive to a Canadian voyager. One of these meals 
was composed of the dried rows of fish, pounded, 
and boiled in water, thickened with a small quan- 
tity of flour, and fattened with a bit of grian. 
These articles, being brought to the consistency 
of an hasty pudding, produced a substantial and 
not unpleasant dish. The natives are very careful 
of the rows offish, which they dry, and preserve 
in baskets made of bark. Those we used were 
found in the huts of the first people who fled from 
us. During our abode in Canoe Island, the water 
sunk three perpendicular feet. I now gave the men 
a dram each, which could not but be considered, at 
this time, as a very comfortable treat. They were, 
indeed, in high spirits, when they perceived the 
superior excellence of the new vessel, and reflected 
that it was the work of their own hands. 

At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the fore- 
man, who had not forgotten the fright he suflfered 
on coming down it, proposed that the canoe and 
lading should be carried over the mountain. I 
threatened him with taking the oflice of foreman 
on myself, and suggested the evident change there 
was in the appearance of the water since we pas- 
sed it, which upon examination had sunk four feet 
and an half. As the water did not seem so strong 
on the West side, I determined to cross over, 
having first put Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, 
on shore, to try the woods for game. We ac- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 269 

cordingly traversed, and got up close along the 
rocks, to a considerable distance, ^^ ith the pad- 
dles, when we could proceed no farther without 
assistance from the line ; and to draw it across a 
perpendicular rock, for the distance of fifty fathoms, 
appeared to be an insurmountable obstacle. The 
general opinion was to return, and carry on the 
other side ; I desired, however, two of the men to 
take the line, which was seventy fathoms in length, 
with a small roll of bark, and endeavour to climb 
up the rocks, from whence they were to descend 
on the other side of that which opposed our pro- 
gress ; they were then to fasten the end of the line 
to the roll of bark, which the currant would bring- 
to us ; this being effected, they would be able to 
draw us up. This was an enterprise of difficulty 
and danger, but it was crowned with success ; 
though to get to the water's ^d^Q above, the men 
wxre obliged to let themselves down with the line, 
run round a tree, from the summit of the rock. 
By a repetition of the same operation, we at length 
cleared the rapid, with the additional trouble of 
carrying the canoe, and unloading at two cascades. 
We were not more than two hours getting up this 
difficult part of the river, including the time em- 
ployed in repairing an hole which had been broken 
in the canoe, by the negligence of the steersman. 

Here we expected to meet with the natives, but 
there was not the least appearance of them, except 
that the guide, his companion, and two others, 
had apparently passed the carrying-place. We 
saw several fish leap out of the water, which ap- 
peared to be of the salmon kind. The old man, 
indeed, had informed us that this was the season 
when the large fish begin to come up the river. 
Our hunters returned, but had not seen the track 
of any animal. We now continued our journey ; 
the current was not strong, but we met with fre- 



270 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

quent impediments from the fallen trees, which 
lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the 
evening ; and suffered indescribable inconvenien- 
ces from the flies. 

Wednesday^ 3. It had rained hard in the night, 
and there was some small rain in the morning. 
At four we entered our canoe, and at ten we came 
to a small river, which answered to the descrip- 
tion of that whose course the natives said, they 
follow in their journies towards the sea coast ; we 
therefore put into it, and endeavoured to discover if 
our guide had landed here ; but there were no traces 
of him or of any others. My former perplexities 
w ere now renewed. If I passed this river, it was 
probable that I might miss the natives ; and I had 
reason to suspect that my men would not consent 
to return thither. As for attempting the woods, 
without a guide, to introduce us to the first inha- 
bitants, such a determination would be little short 
of absolute madness. At length, after much pain- 
ful reflection, I resolved to come at once to a full 
explanation with my people, and I experienced a 
considerable relief from this resolution. Accord- 
ingly, after repeating the promise they had so 
lately made me, on our putting back up the river, 
I represented to them that this appeared to me to 
be the spot from which the natives took their de- 
parture for the sea coast, and added, withal, that 
I was determined to try it : for though our guide 
had left us, it was possible that, while we were 
making the necessary preparations, he or some 
others might appear, to relieve us from our present 
difficulties. I now found, to my great satisfaction, 
that they had not come to any fixed determination 
among themselves, as some of them immediately 
assented to undertake the woods with me. Others, 
however, suggested that it might be better to pro- 
ceed a few leagues further up the river, in expec- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 271 

tation of finding our guide, or procuring another, 
and that after all we might return hither. This 
plan I very readily agreed to adopt, but before I 
left this place, to which I gave the name of the 
West-Road River, I sent some of the men into 
the woods, in different directions, and went some 
distance up the river myself, which I found to be 
navigable only for small canoes. Two of the men 
found a good beaten path, leading up a hill just 
behind us, which I imagined to be the great road. 
At four in the afternoon we left this place, pro- 
ceeding up the river ; and had not been upon the 
water more than three quarters of an hour, when 
we saw two canoes coming with the stream. No 
sooner did the people in them perceive us than 
they landed, and we went on shore at the same 
place with them. They proved to be our guide, 
and six of his relations. He was covered with a 
painted beaver robe, so that we scarcely knew 
him in his fine habiliment. He instantly desired 
us to acknowledge that he had not disappointed 
us, and declared, at the same time, that it was 
his constant intention to keep his word. I ac- 
cordingly gave him a jacket, a pair of trowsers, and 
a handkerchief, as a reward for his honourable 
conduct. The strangers examined us with the 
most minute attention, and two of them, as I was 
now informed, belonged to the people whom we 
first saw, and who fled with so much alarm from 
us. They told me, also, that they were so terri- 
fied on that occasion, as not to approach their huts 
for two days ; and that when they ventured thither, 
they found the greater part of their property de- 
stroyed, by the fire running in the ground. Ac- 
cording to their account, they were of a different 
tribe, though I found no difference in their lan- 
guage from that of the Nagailas or Carriers. They 
are called Nascud Denee. Their lodges were at 



i?72 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

some distance, on a small lake, where they take 
fish, and if our guide had not gone for them there, 
we should not have seen a human being on the 
river. They informed me that the road by their 
habitation is the shortest, and they proposed that 
we should take it. 

Thursday^ 4. At an early hour this morning, 
and at the suggestion of our guide, we proceeded 
to the landing-place that leads to the strangers 
lodges. Our great difficulty here was to procure 
a temporary separation from our company, in 
order to hide some articles we could not carry with 
us, and which it would have been imprudent to 
leave in the power of the natives. Accordingly 
Mr. Mackay, and one of our Indians embarked 
with them, and soon run out of our sight. At 
our first hiding-place we left a bag of pemmican, 
weighing ninety pounds, two bags of wild rice, 
and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our 
putting these articles in the ground, Vv^e rolled 
them up in oil cloth, and dressed leather. In the 
second hiding-place, and guarded with the same 
rollers, we hid two bags of Indian corn, or raaize, 
and a bale of different articles of merchandise. 
When we had completed this important object, we 
proceeded till half past eight, when we landed at 
the entrance of a small rivulet, where our friends 
were waiting for us. 

Here it was necessary that Vv^e should leave our 
canoe, and whatever wc could not carry on our 
backs. In the first place, therefore, we prepared 
a stage, on which the canoe was placed bottom up- 
wards, and shaded by a covering of small trees 
and branches, to keep her from the sun. We then 
buiit an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of 
green logs, wherein we placed every article it was 
necessary for us to leave here, and covered the 
whole with large pieces of timber. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 273 

While we were eagerly employed in this neces- 
sary business, our guide and his companions were 
so impatient to be gone, that we could not per- 
suade the former to wait till we were prepared for our 
departure, and we had some difficulty in persuading 
another of the natives to remain, who had under- 
took to conduct us where the guide had promised 
to wait our arrival. 

At noon we were in a state of preparation to en- 
ter the woods, an undertaking of which I shall not 
here give any preliminary opinion, but leave those 
who read it to judge for themselves. 

We carried on our backs four bags and a half of 
pemmican, weighing from eighty-live to ninety 
pounds each; a case with my instruments, a par- 
cel of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds, 
and a parcel containing ammunition of the same 
weight. Each of the Canadians had a burden of 
about ninety pounds, with a gun, and some am- 
munition. The Indians had about forty. five pounds 
weight of pemmican to carry, besides their gun, 
&c. with which they were very much dissatisfied, 
and if they had dared would have instantly left us. 
They had hitherto been very much indulged, but 
the moment was now arrived, when indulgence 
was no longer practicable. My own load, and that 
of Mr. Mackay, consisted of twenty-two pounds 
of pemmican, some rice, a little sugar, &:c. amount- 
ing in the whole to about seventy pounds each, 
besides our arms and ammunition. I had also the 
tube of my telescope swung across my shoulder, 
which was a troublesome addition to my burthen. 
It was determined that we should content ourselves 
with two meals a day, which were regulated with- 
out difficulty, as our provisions did not require the 
ceremony of cooking. 

In this state of equipment we began our jour- 
ney, as I have already mentioned, about twelve at 



374 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

noon, the commencement of which was a steep 
ascent of about a mile; it lay along a well-beaten 
path, but the country through which it led was 
rugged and ridgy, and full of wood. When we 
were in a state of extreme heat, from the toil of 
our journey, the rain came on, and continued till 
evening, and even when it ceased, the underwood 
continued its drippings upon us. 

About half past six we arrived at an Indian camp 
of three fires, where we found our guide, and on 
his recommendation we determined to remain there 
for the night. The computed distance of this 
day's journey was about twelve geographical miles; 
the course about West. 

At sun- set, an elderl}^ man and three other na- 
tives joined us from the Westward, The former 
bore a lance, which very much resembled a Ser- 
jeant's halberd. He had lately received it, by way 
of barter, from the natives of the Sea- Coast, who 
procured it from the white men. We should meet, 
he said, with many of his countrymen, who had 
just returned from thence. According to his re- 
port, it did not require more than six days journey, 
for people who are not heavily laden, to reach the 
country of those with whom they bartered their 
skins for iron, &:c. and from thence it is not quite 
two day's march to the sea. They proposed to 
send two young men on before us, to notify to the 
different tribes that we were approaching, that they 
might not be surprised at our appearance, and be 
disposed to afford us a friendly reception. This 
was a measure which I could not but approve, and 
endeavoured by some small presents to prepossess 
our couriers in our favour. 

These people live but poorly at this season, and 
I could procure no provision from them, but a few 
small, dried fish, as I think, of the carp kind. 
They had several European articles; and one of 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 275 

them had a strip of fur, which appeared to me to 
be of the sea otter. He obtained it from the na- 
tives of the coast, and exchanged it with me for 
some beads and a brass cross. 

We retired to rest in as much security as if we 
had been long habituated to a confidence in our 
present associates : indeed, we had no alternative; 
for so great were the fatigues of the day in our 
mode of travelling, that we were in great need of 
rest at night. 

Friday^ 5. We had no sooner laid ourselves 
dov/n to rest last night, than the natives began to 
sing, in a manner very different from what I had 
been accustomed to hear among savages. It was 
not accompanied either with dancing, drum, or 
rattle; but consisted of soft plaintive tones, and a 
modulation that was rather agreeable : it had some- 
what the air of church music. As the natives had 
requested me not to quit them at a very early hour 
in the morning, it was five before I desired that 
the young men, v/ho were to proceed with us, 
should depart, when they prepared to set off: but 
on calling to our guide to conduct us, he said that 
he did not intend to accompany us any further; as 
the young men would answer our purpose as well 
as himself. I knew it would be in vain to remon- 
strate with him, and therefore submitted to his 
caprice without a reply. However, I thought 
proper to inform him, that one of my people had 
lost his dag or poignard, and requested his assist- 
ance in the recovery of it. He asked me what I 
would give him to conjure it back again ; and a 
knife was agreed to be the price of his necromantic 
exertions. Accordingly, all the dags and knives 
in the place were gathered together, and the natives 
formed a circle round them; the conjurer also re- 
maining in the middle. When this part of the 

3 G 



276 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ceremony was arranged, he began to sing, the rest 
joining in th€ chorus ; and after some time he pro- 
duced the poignard, which was stuck in the ground, 
and returned it to me. 

At seven wc were ready to depart ; when I was 
surprised to hear our late guide propose, without 
any solicitation on our part, to resume his ofiice; 
and he actually conducted us as far as a small 
lake, where we found an encampment of three 
families. The young men who had undertaken 
to conduct us, were not well understood by my 
interpreters, who continued to be so displeased 
with their journey, that they performed this 
part of their duty with great reluctance. I 
endeavoured to persuade an elderly man of this 
encam^pment to accompany us to the next tribe, 
but no inducement of mine could prevail on him 
to comply with my wishes. I was, therefore, 
obliged to content myself with the guides I had al- 
ready engaged, for whom we were obliged to wait 
som.e time, till they had provided shoes for their 
journey. I exchanged two halfpence here, one of 
his present Majesty, and the other of the State of 
Massachusett's Bay, coined in 1787. They hung 
as ornaments in children's ears. 

My situation here was rendered rather unplea- 
sant by the treatment which my hunters received 
from these people. The former, it appeared, 
were considered as belonging to a tribe who inha- 
bit the mountains, and are the natural enemies of 
the latter. We had also been told by one of the 
natives, of a very stern aspect, that he had been 
stabbed by a relation of theirs, and pointed to a 
scar as the proof of it. I was, therefore, very glad 
to proceed on my journey. 

Our guides conducted us along the lake through 
thick woods, and without any path, for about a 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 377 

mile and a half, when we lost sight of it. This 
piece of water is about three miles long and one 
broad. We then crossed a creek and entered upon 
a beaten track, though an open country, sprinkled 
with Cyprus trees. At twelve the sky became 
black, and a heavy gust with rain shortly followed, 
which continued for upwards of an hour. When 
we perceived the approaching storm, we fixed our 
thin light oil-cloth to screen us from it. On re- 
newing our march, as the bushes were very wet, 
I desired our guides, they having no burdens, to 
walk in front and beat them as they went: this task 
they chose to decline, and accordingly I undertook 
it. Our road now lay along a lake, and across a 
creek that ran into it. The guides informed me, 
that this part of the country abounds in beaver : 
many traps were seen along the road, which had 
been set for lynxes and martens. About a quarter 
of a mile from the place where we had been stop- 
ped by the rain, the ground was covered with hail, 
and as we advanced, the hailstones increased in 
size, some of them being as big as musket-balls. 
In this manner was the ground whitened for up- 
wards of two miles. At five in the afternoon we 
arrived on the banks of another lake, when it again 
threatened rain; and we had already been suffi- 
ciently wetted in the course of the day, to look with 
complacency towards a repetition of it: we accor- 
dingly fixed our shed, the rain continuing with 
great violence through the remainder of the day : 
it was therefore determined, that we should stop 
here for the night. 

In the course of the day we passed three winter 
huts; they consisted of low walls, with a ridge 
pole, covered with the branches of the Canadian 
balsam- tree. One of my men had a violent pain 
in his knee, and I asked the guides to take a share 
of his burden, as they had nothing to carry but 



278 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE" 

their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but they 
could not be made to understand a word of my re- 
quest. 

Saturday, 6. At four this morning I arose 
from my bed, such as it was. As we must have 
been in a most unfortunate predicament, if our 
guides should have deserted us in the night, by way 
of security, I proposed to the youngest of them to 
sleep with me, and he readily consented. These 
people have no covering but their beaver garments, 
and that of my companions was a nest of vermin. 
I, however, spread it under us, and having laid 
down upon it, we covered ourselves with my cam- 
blet cloak. My companion's hair being greased 
with fish-oil, and his body smeared with red earth, 
my sense of smelling as well as that of feeling, 
threatened to interrupt my rest; but these incon- 
veniences yielded to my fatigue, and I passed a 
night of sound repose. 

I took the lead in our march, as I had done yes- 
terday, in order to clear the branches of the wet 
which continued to hang upon them. We proceeded 
with all possible expedition through a level country 
widi but little under-wood ; the larger trees were 
of the fir kind. At half past eight we fell upon 
the road, which we first intended to have taken 
from the Great River, and must be shorter than 
that which we had travelled. The West-road 
river was also in sight, winding through a valley. 
We had not met with any water since our encamp- 
ment of last night, and though we were afflicted 
with violent thirst, the river was at such a dis- 
tance from us, and the descent to it so long and 
steep, that we were compelled to be satisfied with 
casting our longing looks towards it. There ap- 
peared to be more water in the river here, than at 
its discharge. The Indian account, that it is na- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 279 

vigable for their canoes, is, I believe, perfectly 
correct. 

Our guides now told us, that as the road was 
very good and well traced, they would proceed to 
inform the next tribe that we were coming. This 
information w^as of a very unpleasant nature ; as it 
would have been easy for them to turn off the 
road at an hundred yards from us, and, when Ave 
had passed them, to return home. I proposed that 
one of them should remain with us, while two of 
my people should leave their loads behind and ac- 
company the other to the lodges. But they would 
not stay to hear our persuasions, and were soon 
out of sight. 

I now desired the Cancre to leave his burden, 
take a small quantity of provision, with his arms 
and blanket, and follow me. I also told my men 
to come on as fast as they could, and that I would 
wait for them as soon as I had formed an acquain- 
tance with the natives of the country before us. 
We accordingly followed our guides with all the 
expedition in our power, but did not overtake 
them till we came to a family of natives, consist- 
ing of one man, two women, and six children, 
with whom we found them. These people be- 
trayed no signs of fear at our appearance, and the 
man willingly conversed with my interpreter, to 
whom he made himself more intelligible, than 
our guides had been able to do. They, however, 
had informed him of the object of our journey. 
He pointed out to us one of his wives, who was 
a native of the sea coast, which was not a very 
great distance from us. This woman was more 
inclined to corpulency than any we had yet seen, 
was of low stature, with an oblong face, grey 
eyes, and a flattish nose. She was decorated with 
ornaments of various kinds, such as large blue 
beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling 



280 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

her neck, or braided in her hair : she also wore 
bracelets of brass, copper, and horn. Her gar- 
ments consisted of a kind of tunic, which was 
covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed round 
the bottom with skin of the sea otter. None of 
the women whom I had seen since we crossed the 
mountain wore this kind of tunic ; their blankets 
being merely girt round the waist. She had 
learned the language of her husband's tribe, and 
confirmed his account, that w^e were at no great 
distance from the sea. They were on their way, 
she said, to the great river to fish. Age seemed 
to be an object of great veneration among these 
people, for they carried an old woman by turns 
on their backs who was quite blind and infirm from 
the very advanced period of her life. 

Our people having joined us and rested them- 
selves, I requested our guides to proceed, when 
the elder of them told me that he should not go 
any further, but that these people would send a boy 
to accompany his brother, and I began to think 
mj^self rather fortunate, that we were not deserted 
by them all. 

About noon we parted, and in two hours we 
came up w ith two men and their families : when 
we first saw^ them they were sitting down, as if to 
rest themselves ; but no sooner did they perceive 
us than they rose up and seized their arms. — 
The boys who were behind us immediately ran 
forwards and spoke to them, when they laid by 
their arms and received us as friends. They had 
been eating green berries and dried fish. We 
had, indeed, scarcely joined them, when a woman 
and a boy came from the river with water, which 
they very hospitably gave us to drink. The peo- 
ple of this party had a very sickly appearance, 
which might have been the consequence of disease, 
or that indolence which is so natural to them, or 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 281 

of both. One of the women had a tattooed line 
along the chin, of the same length of her mouth. 

The lads now informed me that they would go 
no further, but that these men would take their 
places ; and they parted from their families with 
as little apparent concern, as if they were entire 
strangers to each other. One of them was very 
well understood by my interpreter, and had resid- 
ed among the natives of the sea coast, whom he 
had left but a short time. According to his infor- 
mation, WG were approaching a river, which was 
neither large nor long, but whose banks were in- 
habited ; and that in the bay which the sea forms 
at the mouth of it, a great wooden canoe, with 
white people, arrives about the time w^hen the 
leaves begin to grow ; I presume in the early part 
of May. 

After we parted with the last people, we came 
to an uneven, hilly, and swampy country, through 
which our w^ay was impeded by a considerable 
number of Mien trees. At five in the afternoon 
we were overtaken by a heavy shower of rain and 
hail, and being at the same time very much fa- 
tigued, we encamped for the night near a small 
creek. Our course till we came to the river, was 
about South- West ten miles, and then West, 
twelve or fourteen miles. I thought it prudent, 
by way of security, to submit to the same incon- 
veniences I have already described, and shared 
the beaver robe of one of my guides during the 
night. 

Sunday, 7. I was so busily employed in collect- 
ing intelligence from our conductors, that I last 
night forgot to wind up my time-piece, and it was 
the only instance of such an act of negligence since 
I left Fort Chepewyan, on the 11th of last Octo- 
ber. At five we quitted our station, and proceed- 
ed across two mountains, covered with spruce, 



J82 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

poplar, white birch, and other trees. We then 
descended into a level country, where we found a 
good road, through woods of cypress. We then 
came to two small lakes, at the distance of about 
fourteen miles. Course about West. Through 
them the river passes, and our road kept in a pa- 
rallel line with it on a range of elevated ground. 
On observing some people before us, our guides 
hastened to meet them, and, on their approach, 
one of them stepped forward with an axe in his 
hand. This party consisted only of a man, two 
women, and the same number of children. The 
eldest of the women, who probably was the man's 
mother, was engaged, when we joined them, in 
clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in dia- 
meter, of the weeds that infested it ; nor did our 
arrival interrupt her employment, which was sacred 
to the memory of the dead. The spot to which 
her pious care was devoted, contained the grave 
of an husband, and a son, and whenever she passed 
this way, she always stopped to pay this tribute of 
affection. 

As soon as we had taken our morning allowance, 
WQ set forwards, and about three we perceived more 
people before us. After some alarm we came up 
with them. They consisted of seven men, as many 
women, and several children. Here I was under 
the necessity of procuring another guide, and we 
continued our route on the same side of the river, 
till six in the evening, when we crossed it. It 
v/as knee deep, and about an hundred yards over. 
I wished now to stop for the night, as we were all 
of us very much fatigued, but our guide recom- 
mended us to proceed onwards to a family of his 
friends, at a small distance from thence, where 
we arrived at half past seven. He had gone for- 
ward, and procured us a welcome and quiet recep- 
tion. There being a net hanging to dry, I re- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 283 

quested the man to prepare and set it in the water^ 
which he did widi great expedition, and then pre- 
sented me with a few small dried fish. Our course 
was South- West about twelve miles, part of 
which was an extensive swamp, that was seldom 
less than knee deep. In the course of the after- 
noon we had several showers of rain. I had at- 
tempted to take an altitude, but it was past meri- 
dian. The water of the river before the lodge was 
quite still, and expanded itself into the form of a 
small lake. In many other places, indeed, it had 
assumed the same form. 

Monday, 8. It rained throughout the night, 
and it was seven in the morning before the weather 
would allow us to proceed. The guide brought 
me five small boiled fish, in a platter made of 
bark ; some of them were of the carp kind, and 
the rest of a species for which I am not qualified 
to furnish a name. Having dried our clothes, we 
set off on our march about eight, and our guide 
very cheerfully continued to accompany us ; but 
he was not altogether so intelligible as his prede- 
cessors in our service. We learned from him, 
however, that this lake, through which the river 
passes, extends to the foot of the mountain, and 
that he expected to meet nine men, of a tribe 
which inhabits the North side of the river. 

In this part of our journey we were surprised 
with the appearance of several regular basons, 
some of them furnished with water, and the others 
empty ; their slope from the edge to the bottom 
formed an angle of about forty-five degrees, and 
their perpendicular depth was about twelve feet. 
Those that contained water, discovered gravel 
near their edges, while the empty ones were co- 
vered with grass and herbs, among which we dis- 
covered mustard, and mint. There were also 
several places from whence the water appears to 
3 H 



284 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

have retired, which are covered with the same soil 
and herbage. 

We now proceeded along a very uneven country^ 
the upper parts of wiiich were covered with pop- 
lars, a little under- wood, and plenty of grass : the 
intervening vaiiies were watered with rivrilets. 
From these circumstances, and the general ap- 
pearance of vegetation, I could not account for the 
apparent absence of animals of every kind. 

Tuesday^ 9. At two in the afternoon w^e ar- 
rived at the largest river that we had seen, since 
we left our canoe, and which forced its way be- 
tween and over the huge stones that opposed its 
current. Our couise v/as about South-South- 
West sixteen miles along the river, which might 
here justify the title of a lake. The road was 
good, and our next course, which was West by 
South, brought us onward ten miles, where we 
encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained three 
parts of the day. This river abounds with fish, 
and must fall into the great river, further down 
than we had extended our voyage. 

A heavy and continued rain fell through great 
part of the night, and as we were in some mea- 
sure exposed to it, time was required to dry our 
clothes ; so that it was half past seven in the morn- 
ing before we were ready to set out. As we found 
the country so destitute of game, and foreseeing 
the difficulty of procuring provisions for our re- 
turn, I thought it prudent to conceal half a bag of 
pemmican : having sent off the Indians, and all 
my people except two, we buried it under the 
fire-place, as we had done on a former occasion. 
We soon overtook our party, and continued our 
route along the river or lake. About twelve I had 
an altitude, but it was inaccurate from the cloudi- 
ness of the weather. We continut^d our progress 
till five in the afternoon^ when the water began ta 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 285 

narrow, and in about half an hour we came to a 
ferry, where we found a small raft. At this time 
it began to thunder, and torrents of rain soon fol- 
lowed, which terminated our journey for the day. 
Our course was about South, twenty-one miles 
from the lake aiready mentioned. We now disco- 
vered the tops of mountains, covered with snow, 
over verv high intermediate land. We killed a 
whitehead and a grey eagle, and three grey par- 
tridges; we also saw two otters in the river, and 
several beaver lodges along it. When the rain 
^ieased, we caught a few small fish, and repaired 
the raft for the service of the ensuing day. 

Wednesday, 10. At an early hour of this mor- 
ning v/e prepared to cross the water. The tra- 
verse is about thirty yards, and it required five 
trips to get us all over. At a short distance be- 
low, a small river falls in, that comes from the di- 
rection in which we were proceeding. It is a 
rapid for about three hundred yards, when it ex- 
pands into a lake, along which our road conducted 
us, and beneath a range of beautiful hills, covered 
with verdure. At half past eight we came to the 
termination of the lake, where there were two 
houses that occupied a most delightful situation, 
and as they contained their necessary furniture, it 
seemed probable that their owners intended shortly 
to return. Near them were several graves or 
tombs, to which the natives are particularly atten- 
tive, and never suffer any herbage to grow upon 
them. In about half an hour we reached a place 
where there w^ere two temporary huts, that con- 
tained thirteen men, with whom we found our 
guide who had preceded us, in order to secure a 
good reception. The buildings Avere detached 
from each other, and conveniently placed for fish- 
ing in the lake. Their inhabitants called them- 
selves Sloua-cuss-Dinais, which denomination, as 



286 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

far as my interpreter could explain it to me, I un- 
derstood to mean Red-fish Men. They were 
much more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their 
appearance, than any of the natives whom we had 
passed; nevertheless, I have no doubt that they 
are the same people, from their name alone, v/hich 
is of the Chepewyan language. My interpreters, 
however, understood very little of what they said, 
so that I did not expect much information from 
them. Some of them said it was a journey of 
four days to the sea, and others were of opinion 
that it was six ; and there were among them who 
extended it to eight; but they all uniformly de- 
clared that they had been to the coast. They did 
not entertain the smallest apprehension of danger 
from us, and, when we discharged our pieces, ex- 
pressed no sensation but that of astonishment, 
which, as may be supposed, was proportionably 
increased when one of the hunters shot an eagle, 
at a considerable distance. At twelve I obtained 
an altitude, which made our latitude 53, 4. 32. 
North, being not so far South as I expected. 

I now went, accompanied by one of my men, 
an interpreter, and the guide, to visit some huts at 
the distance of a mile. On our arrival, the inha- 
bitants presented us with a dish of boiled trout, of 
a small kind. The fish would have been excellent 
if it had not tasted of the kettle, v/hich was made 
of the bark of the white spruce, and of the dried 
grass with which it was boiled. Besides this kind 
of trout, red and white carp and jub, are the only 
fish I saw as the produce of these waters. 

These people appeared to live in a state of com- 
parative comfort; they take a greater share in the 
labour of the women, than is common among the 
savage tribes, and are, as I was informed, content 
with one wife. Though this circumstance may 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 287 

proceed rather from the difficulty of procurmgsub- 
sistence, than any habitual aversion to polygamy. 

My present guide now informed me, that he 
could not proceed any further, and I accordingly 
engaged two of these people to succeed him in that 
office ; but when they desired us to proceed on the 
beaten path without them, as they could not set 
off till the following day, I determined to stay that 
night, in order to accommodate myself to their 
convenience. I distributed some trifles among the 
wives and children of the men who were to be our 
future guides, and returned to my people. We 
came back by a different way, and passed by two 
buildings, erected between four trees, and about 
fifteen feet from the ground, which appeared to 
me to be intended as magazines for winter provi- 
sions. At four in the afternoon, we proceeded vv ith 
considerable expedition, by the side of the lake, 
till six, when we came to the end of it : we then 
struck off through a much less beaten track, and at 
half past seven stopped for the night. Our course 
was about West- South- West thirteen miles, and 
West six miles. 

Thursday^ 11. I passed a most uncomfortable 
night : the first part of it I was tormented with 
flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. In the 
morning the weather cleared, and as soon as our 
clothes were dried, we proceeded through a morass. 
This part of the country had been laid waste by 
fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and per- 
plexity of our way. A high, rocky ridge stretch- 
ed along our left. Though the rain returned, we 
continued our progress till noon, when our guide 
took to some trees for shelter. We then spread 
our oil-cloth, and, with some difficulty, made a fire. 
About two the rain ceased, when we continued 
our journey through the same kind of country 
which we had hitherto passed. At half past three 



588 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

we came in sight of a lake ; the land at the same 
time gradually rising lo a range of mountains whose 
tops were covered -vith snow. We soon after 
observed two fresh tracks, which seemed to sur- 
prise our guides, but they supposed them to have 
been made by the inhabitants of the country, who 
were come into this part of it to fish. At five in 
the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it had 
at intervals continued to rain) that we vvere com- 
pelled to stop for the night. We passed seven 
rivulets and a creek in this day's journey. As I 
had hitherto regulated our course by the sun, I 
could not form an accurate judgment of this route, 
as we had not been favoured with a sight of it 
during the day ; but I imagine it to have been 
nearly in the same direction as that of yesterday. 
Our distance could not have been less than fifteen 
miles. 

Our conductors now began to complain of our 
mode of travelling, and mentioned their intention 
of leaving us ; and my interpreters, who w ere 
equally dissatisfied, added to our perplexity by 
their conduct. Besides these circumstances, and 
the apprehension that the distance from the sea 
might be greater than 1 had imagined, it became 
a matter of real necessity that we should begin to 
diminish the consumption of our provisions, and 
to subsist upon two-thirds of our allowance j a 
proposition which was as unwelcome to my people, 
as it was necessary to be put into immediate prac- 
tice. 

Friday^ 12. At half past five this morning we 
proceeded on our journey, with cloudy weather, 
and when we came to the end of the lake, several 
tracks were visible that led to the side of the wa- 
ter ; from which circumstance I concluded, that 
some of the natives were fishing along the banks 
of it. This lake is not more that three miles long, 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 289 

and about one broad. We then passed four small- 
er lakes, the two first being on our right, and those 
which preceded, on our left. A small river also 
flowed across our way from the right, and we pass- 
ed it over a beaver-dam. A larger lake now ap- 
peared on our right, and the mountains on each 
side of us were covered with snow. We afterwards 
came to another lake on our right, and soon reach- 
ed a river, which our guides informed us was the 
same that we had passed on a raft. They said it 
was navigable for canoes from the great river, ex- 
cept two rapids, one of which we had seen. At 
this place it was upwards of twenty yards across, 
and deep water. One of the guides sM^am over to 
fetch a raft which was on the opposite side ; and 
having encreased its dimensions, we crossed at two 
trips, except four of the men, who preferred swim- 
ming. 

Here our conductors renewed their menace of 
leaving us, and I was obliged to give them seve- 
ral articles, and promise more, in order to induce 
them to continue till we could procure other 
natives to succeed them. At four in the afternoon 
we forded the same river, and being with the 
guides at some distance before the rest of the peo- 
ple, I sat down to wait for them, and no sooner 
did they arrive, than the former set off with so 
much speed, that my attempt to follow them 
proved unsuccessful. One of my Indians, how- 
ever, who had no load, overtook them, when they 
excused themselves to him by declaring, thattheif 
sole motive for leaving us, was to prevent the peo- 
ple, whom they expected to find, from shooting 
their arrows at us. At seven o'clock, however, 
we were so fatigued, that we encamped without 
them ; the mountains covered with snow now ap- 
peared to be directly before us. As we were col- 
lecting wood for our lire, we discovered a cross 



290 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

road, where it appeared that people had passed 
within seven or eight days. In short, our situa- 
tion was such as to afford a just cause of alarm, 
and that of the people with me was of a nature to 
defy immediate alleviation. It was necessary, 
however, for me to attempt it ; and I rested my 
principles of encouragement on a representation 
of our past perplexities and , unexpected relief, 
and endeavoured to excite in them the hope of si- 
milar good fortune. I stated to them, that we 
could not be at a great distance from the sea, and 
that there were but few natives to pass, till we 
should arrive among those, who being accustom- 
ed to visit the sea coast, and, having seen white 
people, would be disposed to treat us with kind- 
ness. Such was the general tenor of the reason- 
ing I employed on the occasion, and I was happy 
to find that it was not offered in vain. 

The weather had been cloudy till three in the 
afternoon, when the sun appeared ; but surround- 
ed, as we were, with snow-clad mountains, the 
air became so cold, that the violence of our exer- 
cise, was not sufficient to produce a comfortable 
degree of warmth. Our course to-day was from 
West to South, and at least thirty-six miles. The 
land in general was very barren and stony, and lay 
in ridges, with cypress trees scattered over them. 
We passed several swamps, where we saw nothing 
to console us but a few tracks of deer. 

Saturday, 13. The weather this morning was 
clear but cold, and our scanty covering was not 
sufficient to protect us from the severity of the 
night. About five, after we had warmed oursel- 
ves at a large fire, we proceeded on our dubious 
journey. In about an hour we came to the edge 
of a wood, when we perceived a house, situated 
on a green spot, and by the side of a small river. 
The smoke that issued from it informed us that it 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 291 

vras inhabited. I immediately pushed forward 
toward this mansion, while my people were in 
such a state of alarm, that they followed me with 
the greatest reluctance. On looking back I per- 
ceived that we were in an Indian defile, of fifty 
yards in length. I, however, was close upon the 
house before the inhabitants perceived us, when 
the women and children uttered the most horrid 
shrieks, and the only man who appeared to be with 
them, escaped out of a back door, which I reached 
in time to prevent the women and children from 
following him. The man fled with all his speed 
into the wood, and I called in vain on my inter- 
preters to speak to him, but they were so agitated 
with fear as to have lost the power of utterance. It 
is impossible to describe the distress and alarm of 
these poor people, who believing that they were 
attacked by enemies, expected an immediate mas- 
sacre, which, among themselves, never fails to 
follow such an event. 

Our prisoners consisted of three women, and 
seven children, which apparently composed three 
families. At length, however, by our demeanor, 
and our presents, we contrived to dissipate their 
apprehensions. One of the women then informed 
us, that their people, with several others had left 
that place three nights before, on a trading jour- 
ney to a tribe whom she called Annah, which is 
the name the Chepewyans give to tlie Kniste- 
neaux, at the distance of three days. She added 
also, that from the mountains before us, which 
were covered with snow, the sea was visible ; and 
accompanied her information with a present of a 
couple of dried fish. We now expressed our de- 
sire that the man might be induced to return, and 
conduct us in the road to the sea. Indeed, it was 
not long before he discovered himself in the wood, 
when he was assured, both by the w^omen and our 
3 I 



1292 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

interpreters, that we had no hostile design against 
him ; but these assurances had no effect in quiet- 
ing his apprehensions. I then attempted to go to 
him alone, and shewed him a knife, beads, he, to 
induce him to come to me, but he, in return, made 
a hostile display of his bow and arrows : and, hav- 
ing for some time exhibited a variety of strange 
antics, again disappeared. However, he soon pre* 
sented himself in another quarter, and after a suc- 
cession of parleys between us, he engaged to come 
and accompany us. 

While these negociations were proceeding, 1 
proposed to visit the fishing machines, to which 
the women readily consented, and I found in them 
twenty small fish, such as trout, carp, and jub, for 
which I gave her a large knife ; a present that ap- 
peared to be equally unexpected and gratifying to 
her. Another man now came towards us, from a 
hill, talking aloud from the time he appeared, till 
he reached us. The purport of his speech was, 
that he threw himself upon our mercy, and we 
might kill him, if it was our pleasure, but that 
from what he had heard, he looked rather for our 
friendship than our enmity. He was an elderly 
person, of a decent appearance, and I gave him 
some articles to conciliate him to us. The first 
man now followed with a lad along Vv ith him, both 
of whom were the sons of the old man, and, on his 
arrival, he gave me several half dried fish, which I 
considered as a peace-offering. After some con- 
versation with these people, respecting the coun- 
try, and our future progress through it, we retired 
to rest, with sensations very different from those 
with which we had risen in the morning. The 
weather had been generally cloudy throughout the 
day, and when the sun was obscured, extremely^ 
cold for the season. At noon I obtained a meridian 
altitude, which gave 52. 58. 53. North latitude. I 
likewise took time ia the afternoon. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 293 

Sunday y 14. This morning we had a bright 
sun, with an East wind. These people examined 
their fishing machines, when they found in them 
a great number of small fish, and we dressed as 
many of them as we could eat. Thus was our de- 
parture retarded until seven, when we proceeded 
on our journey, accompanied by the man and his 
two sons. As I did not want the younger, and 
should be obliged to feed him, I requested of his 
father to leave him, for the purpose of fishing for 
the women. He replied, that they were accus- 
tomed to fish for themselves, and that I need not 
be apprehensive of their encroaching upon my pro- 
visions, as they were used to sustain themselves 
in their journies on herbs, and the inner tegument 
of the bark of trees, for the stripping of which he 
had a thin piece of bone, then hanging by his side* 
The latter is of a glutinous quality, of a clammy, 
sweet taste, and is generally considered by the 
more interior Indians as a delicacy, rather than an 
article of common food. Our guide informed me 
that there is a short cut across the mountains, but 
as there was no trace of a road, and it would shor- 
ten our journey but one day, he should prefer the 
beaten way. 

We accordingly proceeded along a lake. West 
five miles. We then crossed a small river, and 
passed through a swamp, about South- West, when 
Ave began gradually to ascend for some time 
till we gained the summit of a hill, where we had 
an extensive view to the South-East, from which 
direction a considerable river appeared to flow, at 
the distance of about three miles : it w^as repre- 
sented to me as being navigable for canoes. The 
descent of this hill was more steep than its ascent, 
and was succeeded by another, whose top, though 
not so elevated as the last, afforded a view of the 



294 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

range of mountains, covered with snow, which, 
according to the intelligence of our guide, termi- 
nates in the ocean. We now left a small lake on 
our left, then crossed a creek running out of it, 
and at one in the afternoon came to a house, of 
the same construction and dimensions as have al- 
ready been mentioned, but the materials were 
much better prepared and finished. The timber 
was squared on two sides, and the bark taken off 
the two others 5 the ridge pole was also shaped in 
the same manner, extending about eight or ten 
feet beyond the gable end, and supporting a shed 
over the door : the end of it was carved into the 
similitude of a snake's head. Several hierogly- 
phics and figures of a similar workmanship, and 
painted with red earth, decorated the interior of 
the building. The inhabitants had left the house 
but a short time, and there were several bags or 
bundles in it, which I did not suffer to be disturb- 
ed. Ncai' it were two tombs, surrounded in a neat 
manner with boards, and covered with bark. Be- 
side them several poles had been erected, one of 
which was squared, and all of them painted. From 
each of them were suspended several rolls or par- 
cels of bark, and our guide gave the following ac- 
count of them; which, as far as we could judge, 
from our imperfect knowledge of the language, and 
the incidental errors of interpretation, appeared to 
involve two different modes of treating their dead ; 
or it might be one and the same ceremony, which 
we did not distinctly comprehend : at all events, it 
is the practice of these people to burn the bodies 
of their dead, except the larger bones, which are 
rolled up in bark and suspended from poles, as I 
have already described. According to the other 
account, it appeared that they actually bury their 
dead ; and when another of the family dies, the re- 
mains of the person who was last interred are taken 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 295 

from the grave and burned, as been already men- 
tioned ; so that the members of a family are thus 
successively buried and burned, to make room for 
each other ; and one tomb proves sufficient for a 
family through succeeding generations. There is 
no house in this country without a tomb in its vici- 
nity. Our last course extended about ten miles. 

We continued our journey along the lake before 
the house, and, crossing a river that flowed out of 
it, came to a kind of bank, or weir, formed by the 
natives, for the purpose of placing their fishing 
machines, many of which of different sizes, were 
lying on the side of the river. Our guide placed 
one of them, with the certain expectation that on 
his return he should find plenty of fish in it. We 
proceeded nine miles further, on a good road, West 
South -West, when we came to a small lake : we 
then crossed a river that ran out of it, and our 
guides were in continual expectation of meeting 
with some of the natives. To this place our course 
was a mile and a half, in the same direction as the 
last. At'nine at night we crossed a river on rafts,our 
last distance being about four miles South- East, ona 
winding road, through a swampy country, and along 
a succession of small lakes. We were now quite, 
exhausted, and it was absolutely necessary for us to 
stop for the night. The weather being clear through- 
out the day, we had no reason to complain of the 
cold. Our guides encouraged us with the hope 
that, in two days of similar exertion, we should 
arrive among people of the other nation. 

Monday^ 15. At five this morning we were 
again in motion, aud passing along a river, we at 
length forded it. This stream was not more than 
knee deep, about thirty yards over, and with a 
stony bottom. The old man went onward by 
himself, in the hope of falling in with the people, 
whom he expected to meet in the course of the 



296 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

day. At eleven we came up with, him, and the 
natives whom he expected, consisting of five men, 
and part of their families. They received us with 
great kindness, and examined us with the most 
minute attention. They must, however, have been 
told that we were white, as our faces no longer in- 
dicated that distinguishing complexion. They 
called themselves Neguia Dinais, and were come 
in a different direction from us, but were now going 
the same way, to the Anah-yoe Tesse or River, 
and appeared to be very much satisfied with our 
having joined them. They presented us with 
some fish which they had just taken in the adjoin- 
ing lake. i 

Here I expected that our guides, like their pre- 
decessors, would have quitted us, but, on the 
contrary, they expressed themselves to be so hap- 
py, in our company, and that of their friends, that 
they voluntarily, and with great cheerfulnes. pro- 
ceeded to pass another night with us. Our new 
acquaintance were people of a very pleasing aspect. 
The hair of the women was tied in large loose 
knots over the ears, and plaited with great neat- 
ness from the division of the head, so as to be in- 
cluded in the knots. Some of them had adorned 
their tresses with beads, with a very pretty effect. 
The men were clothed in leather, their hair was 
nicely combed, and their complexion was fairer, 
or perhaps it may be said, with more propriety, 
that they were more cleanly, than any of the na- 
tives whom we had yet seen. Their eyes, though 
keen and sharp, are not of that dark colour, so 
generally observable in the various tribes of In- 
dians ; they were, on the contrary, of a grey hue, 
with a tinge of red. There was one man amongst 
them of at least six feet four inches in height ; his 
manners were affable, and he had a more prepos- 
sessing appearance than any Indian I had met with 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 29'r 

in my journey ; he was about twenty-eight years 
of ag-e, and was treated with particular respect by 
his party. Every man, woman, and child, car- 
ried a proportionate burden, consisting of beaver 
coating, and parchment, as well as skins of the 
otter, the marten, the bear, the lynx, and dressed 
moose- skins. The last they procure from the 
Rocky-Mountain Indians. According to their ac- 
count, the people of the sea coast prefer them to 
any other article. Several of their relations and 
friends, they said, were already gone, as well pro- 
vided as themselves, to barter with the people of 
the coast ; who barter them in their turn, except 
the dressed leather, with white people who, as 
they had been informed, arrive there in large 
canoes. 

Such an escort was the most fortunate circum- 
stance that could happen in our favour. They told 
us, that as the women and children could not 
travel fast, we should be three days in getting to 
the end of our journey ; which must be supposed 
to have been very agreeable information to people 
in our exhausted condition. 

In about half an hour after we had joined our 
new acquaintance, the signal for moving onwards 
was given by the leader of the party, who vocife- 
rated, the words Huy, Huy, when his people joined 
him and continued a clamorous conversation. We 
passed along a winding road, over hills, and 
through swampy vallies, from South to West. 
We then crossed a deep, narrow river, which dis- 
charges itself into a lake, on whose side we stop- 
ped at five in the afternoon, for the night, though 
we had reposed several times since twelve at noon; 
so that our mode of travelling had undergone a 
very agreeable change. I compute the distance of 
this day's journey at about twenty miles. In the 
middle of the day the weather was clear and sultry. 



298 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We all sat down on a very pleasant green spot, 
and were no sooner seated, than our guide and one 
of the party prepared to engage in play. They 
had each a bundle of about fifty small sticks, neatly 
polished, of the size of a quill, and five inches 
long : a certain number of these sticks had red 
lines round them ; and as many of these as one of 
the players might find convenient were curiously 
rolled up in dry grass, and according to the judg- 
ment of his antagonist respecting their number 
and marks, he lost or won. Our friend was ap- 
parently the loser, as he parted with his bow and 
arrows, and several articles which I had given 
him. 

Tuesday^ 16. The weather of this morning was 
the same as yesterday ; but our fellow-travellers 
were in no hurry to proceed, and I was under the 
necessity of pressing them into greater expedition, 
by representing the almost exhausted state of our 
provisions. They, however, assured us, that 
after the next night's sleep we should arrive at the 
river where they were going, and that we should 
there get fish in great abundance. My young 
men, from an act of imprudence, deprived them- 
selves last night of that rest whicl\ was so neces- 
sary to them. One of the strangers asking them 
several questions respecting us, and concerning 
their own country, one of them gave such answers 
as were not credited by the audience ; whereupon 
he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they thought 
he was disposed to tell lies, like the Rocky Moun- 
tain Indians ; and one of that tribe happening to 
be of the party, a quarrel ensued, which might 
have been attended with the most serious conse- 
quences, if it had not been fortunately prevented 
by the interference of those who were not interest- 
ed in the dispute. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 299 

Though our stock of provisions was getting so 
low, I determined, nevertheless, to hide about 
twenty pounds of pemmican, by way of providing 
against our return. I therefore left two of the men 
behind, with directions to bury it, as usual, under 
the place where we had made our fire. 

Our course was about West- South- West by 
the side of the lake, and in about two miles we 
came to the end of it. Here was a general halt, 
when my men overtook us. I was now informed, 
that some people of another tribe were sent for, 
who wished very much to see us, two of whom 
would accompany us over the mountains ; that, as 
for themselves, they had changed their mind, and 
intended to follow a small river which issued out 
of the lake, and went in a direction very different 
from the line of our journey. This was a disap- 
pointment, which, though not uncommon to us, 
might have been followed by considerable incon- 
veniences. It was my wish to continue with them 
whatever way they went ; but neither my promises 
or entreaties would avail ; these people were not 
to be turned from their purpose ; and when I re- 
presented the low state of our provisions, one of 
them answered, that if we would stay with them 
all night, he w^ould boil a kettle of fish-roes for us. 
Accordingly, without receiving any answer, he 
began to make preparation to fulfil his engage- 
ment. He took the roes out of a bag, and having 
bruised them between two stones, put them in 
water to soak. His wife then took an handful of 
dry grass in her hand, with which she squeezed 
them through her fingers ; in the mean time her 
husband was employed in gathering wood to make 
a fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When 
she had finished her operation, she filled a watape 
kettle nearly full of water, and poured the roes into 
it. When the stones were sufficiently heated, 

3 K 



500 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

some of them were put into the kettle, and others 
were thrown in from time to time, till the water 
was in a state of boiling ; the woman also con- 
tinued stirring the contents of the kettle, till they 
were brought to a thick consistency ; the stones 
were then taken out, and the whole was seasoned 
with about a pint of strong rancid oil. The smell 
of this curious dish was sufficient to sicken me 
without tasting it, but the hunger of my people 
surmounted the nauseous meal. When unadul- 
terated by the stinking oil, these boiled roes arc 
not unpalatable food. 

In the mean time four of the people who had 
been expected, arrived, and, according to the ac- 
count given of them, were of two tribes whom I 
had not yet known. After some conversation, 
they proposed, that I should continue my route by 
their houses ; but the old guide, who was now 
preparing to leave us, informed me that it would 
lengthen my journey ; and by his advice 1 pro- 
posed to them to conduct us along the road which 
had already been marked out to us. This they 
undertook without the least hesitation ; and, at the 
same time, pointed out to me the pass in the 
mountain, bearing South by East by compass. 
Here I had a meridian altitude, and took time. 

At four in the afternoon we parted with our late 
fellow-travellers in a very friendly manner, and 
immediately forded the river. The wild parsnep, 
which luxuriates on the borders of the lakes and 
rivers, is a favourite food of the natives : they 
roast the tops of this plant, in their tender state, 
over the fire, and taking off the outer rind, they 
are then a very palatable food. 

We now entered the woods, and some time 
after arrived on the banks of another river that 
flowed from the mountain, which we also forded. 
The country soon after we left the river was 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 301 

swampy; and the fire having passed through it, 
the number of trees, which had fallen, added to 
the toil of our journey. In a short time we began 
to ascend, and continued^ ascending till nine at 
.night. We walked upwards of fourteen miles, 
according to my computation, in the course of 
the day, though the strait line of distance might 
not be more than ten. Notwithstanding that we 
were surrounded by mountains covered with snow, 
we were very much tormented with musquitoes. 

Wednesday^ 17. Before the sun rose, our 
guides summoned us to proceed, when we de- 
scended into a beautiful valley, watered by a 
sm dl river. At eight we came to the termination 
of it, where we saw a great number of moles, and 
be^an again to ascend. We now perceived many 
ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every di- 
rection. The Indians went in pursuit of them, 
and soon joined us with a female and her litter, 
almost grown to their full size. They stripped 
off their skins, and gave the carcases to my peo- 
ple. They also pulled up a root, which appeared 
like a bunch of white berries of the size of a pea; 
its shape was that of a fig, while it had the colour 
and taste of a potatoe. 

'We now gained the summit of the mountain, 
and found oujselves surrounded by snow. But 
this circumstance is caused rather by the quantity 
of snow drifted in the pass, than the real height of 
the sDOt, as the surrounding mountains rise to a 
much higher degree of elevation. The snow had 
become so compact that our feet hardly made a 
perceptible impression on it. We observed, how- 
ever, the tracks of an herd of small deer which 
mus^ have passed a short time before us, and the 
Indians and my hunters w^ent immediately in pur- 
suit of them. Our way was now nearly level, 
without the least snow, and not a tree to be seen 



302 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

in any part of it. The grass is very short, and 
the soil a reddish clay, intermixed with small 
stones. The face of the hills, where they are not 
enlivened with verdure, appears, at a distance, 
as if fire had passed over them. It now began to 
hail, snow, and rain, nor could we find any shel- 
ter but the leeward side of an huge rock. The 
wdnd also rose into a tempest, and the w^eather was 
as distressing as any I had ever experienced. 
After an absense of an hour and a half, our hun- 
ters brought a small doe of the rein-deer species, 
which was all they had killed, though they fired 
twelve shots at a large herd of them. Their ill 
success they attributed to the weather. I pro- 
posed to leave half of the venison in the snow, but 
the men preferred carrying it, though their strength 
was very much exhausted. We had been so long 
shivering with cold in this situation that we were 
glad to renew our march. Here and there were 
scattered a few crowberry bushes and stinted wil- 
lows ; the former of which had not yet blossomed. 
Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, 
whose snow- clad summit w^as lost in the clouds ; 
between it and our immediate course, flowed the 
river to which we wxre going- The Indians in- 
formed us that it w^as at no great distance. As 
soon as we could gather a sufiicient quantity of 
wood, we stopped to dress some of our venison ; 
and it is almost superfluous to add, that we made 
an heartier meal than we had done for many a day 
before. To the comfort which I have just men- 
tioned, I added that of taking off* my beard, as 
well as changing my linen, and my people fol- 
lowed the humanising example. We then set 
forwards, and came to a large pond, on whose 
bank we found a tomb, but lately made, with a 
pole, as usual, erected beside it, on which two 
figures of birds w^ere painted, and by them the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 303 

guides distinguished the tribe to which the de- 
ceased person belonged. One of them, Ytrj un- 
ceremoniously, opened the bark and shewed us 
the bones which it contained, while the other 
threw down the pole, and having possessed him- 
self of the feathers that were tied to it, fixed them 
on his own head. I therefore conjectured, that 
these funeral memorials belonged to an individual 
of a tribe at enmity with them. 

We continued our route with a considerable 
degree of expedition, and as we proceeded the 
mountains appeared to withdraw from us. The 
country between them soon opened to our view, 
which apparently added to their awful elevation. 
We continued to descend till we came to the brink 
of a precipice, from whence our guides discover- 
ed the river to us, and a village on its banks. This 
precipice, or rather succession of precipices, is 
covered wdth large timber, which consists of the 
pine, the spruce, the hemlock, the birch, and 
other trees. Our conductors informed us, that it 
abounded in animals, which, from their descrip- 
tion, must be wild goats. In about two hours 
w^e arrived at the bottom, where there is a conflux 
of two rivers, that issue from the mountains. 
We crossed the one which was to the left. They 
are both very rapid, and continue so till they 
unite their currents, forming a stream of about 
twelve yards in breadth. Here the timber was 
also very large ; but I could not learn from our 
conductors why the most considerable hemlock 
trees were stripped of their bark to the tops of 
them. I concluded, indeed, at that time that the 
inhabitants tanned their leather with it. Here 
were also the largest and loftiest elder and cedar 
trees that I had ever seen. We were now sen- 
sible of an entire change in the climate, and the 
berries were quite ripe. 



S04 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

The sun was about to set, when our conductors 
left us to follow them as well as we could. We 
were prevented, however, from going far astray, 
for we were hemmed m on both sides and behind 
by such a barrier as nature never before presented 
to my view. Our guides had the precaution to 
mark the road for us, by breaking the branches 
of trees as they passed. This small river must, 
at certain seasons, rise to an uncommon height 
and strength of current most probably on the melt- 
ing of the snow ; as we saw a large quantity of 
drift wood lying twelve feet above the immediate 
level of the river. This circumstance impeded 
our pn gress, and the protruding rocks frequently 
forced us tc pass through the water. It was now 
dark, without the least appearance of houses, 
though it would be impossil>le to have seen them, 
if there had been any, at the distance of twenty 
yards, from the thickness of the woods. My men 
were anxious to stop for the night ; indeed the 
fatigue they had suffered justified the proposal, 
and I left them to their choice ; but as the anxiety 
of my mind impelled me forwards, they continued 
to follow me, till I found myself at the edge of 
the woods ; and, notwithstanding the remonstran- 
ces that were made, I proceeded, feeling rather 
than seeing my way, till I arrived at a house, and 
soon discovered several fires, in small huts, with 
people busily employed in cooking their fish. I 
walked into one of them without the least cere- 
mony, threw down my burden, and, after shaking 
hands with some of the people, sat down upon it. 
They received me without the least appearance of 
surprize, but soon made signs for me to go up to 
the large house, which was erected, on upright 
posts, at some distance from the ground. A broad 
piece of timber with steps cut in it, led to the scaf- 
folding even with the Hoor, and by this curious 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 305 

kind of ladder I entered the house at one end ; and 
having passed three fires, at equal distances in the 
middle of the building, I was received by several 
people, sitting upon a very wide board, at the up- 
per end of it. I shook hands with them, and 
seated myself beside a man, the dignity of whose 
countenance induced me to give him that prefer- 
ence. I soon discovered one of my guides seated 
a little above me, with a neat mat spread before 
him, which I supposed to be the place of honour, 
and appropriated to strangers. 

In a short time my people arrived, and placed 
themselves near me, when the man, by whom I 
sat, immediately rose, and fetched, from behind a 
plank of about four feet wide, a quantity of roast- 
ed salmon. He then directed a mat to be placed 
before me and Mr. Mackay, who was now sitting 
by me. When this ceremony was performed, he 
brought a salmon for each of us, and half an one to 
each of my men. The same plank served also as 
a screen for the beds, whither the women and 
children were already retired ; but whether that 
circumstance took place on our arrival, or was the 
natural consequence of the late hour of the night, 
I did not discover. The signs of our protector 
seemed to denote that we might sleep in the house, 
but as we did not understand him with a sufficient 
degree of certainty, I thought it prudent, from the 
fear of giving offence, to order the men to make a 
fire without, that we might sleep by it. When he 
observed our design, he placed boards for us, that 
we might not take our repose on the bare ground, 
and ordered a fire to be prepared for us. We had 
not been long seated round it, when we received a 
large dish of salmon roes, pounded fine and beat 
up with water, so as to have the appearance of a 
cream. Nor was it without some kind of seasoning 
that gave it a bitter taste. Another dish soon fol- 



306 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

lowed, the principal article of which was also sal- 
mon roes, with a large proportion of gooseberries, 
and an herb that appeared to be sorrel. Its acidity 
rendered it more agreeable to my taste than the 
former preparation. Having been regaled with 
these delicacies, for such they were considered by 
that hospitable spirit which provided them, we 
laid ourselves down to rest, with no other canopy 
than the sky ; but I never enjoyed a more sound 
and refreshing rest, though I had a board for my 
bed, and a billet for my pillow. 

Thursday^ 18. At five this morning I awoke, 
and found that the natives had lighted a fire for 
us, and were sitting by it. My hospitable friend 
immediately brought me some berries and roasted 
salmon, and his companions soon followed his ex- 
ample. The former, which consisted among many 
others, of gooseberries, hurtleberries, and rasp- 
berries, were the finest I ever saw or tasted, of 
their respective kinds. They also brought the 
dried roes of fish to eat with the berries. 

Salmon is so abundant in this river, that these 
people have a constant and plentiful supply of that 
excellent fish. To take them with more facility, 
they had, with great labour, formed an embank- 
ment or weir across the river, for the purpose of 
placing their fishing machines, which they dispos- 
ed both above and below it. I expressed my wish 
to visit this extraordinary work, but these people 
are so superstitious, that they would not allow me 
a nearer examination than I could obtain by view- 
ing it from the bank. The river is about fifty 
yards in breadth, and by observing a man fish with 
a dipping net, I judged it to be about ten feet deep 
at the foot of the fall. The Vv^eir is a work of 
great labour, and contrived with considerable in- 
genuity. It was near four feet above the level of 
the water, at the time I saw it, and nearly the 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 307 

height of the bank on which I stood to examine 
it. The stream is stopped nearly two-thirds by it. 
It is constructed by fixing small trees in the bed of 
the river, in a slanting position (which could be 
practicable only when the water is much lower 
than when I saw it) with the thick part down- 
wards ; over these is laid a bed of gravel, on which 
is placed a range of lesser trees, and so on alter- 
nately till the work is brought to its proper height. 
Beneath it the machines are placed, mto which the 
salmon fall when they attempt to leap over. On 
either side there is a large frame of timber-work, 
six feet above the level of the upper water, in 
which passages are left for the salmon leading di- 
rectly into the machines, which are taken up at 
pleasure. At the foot of the fall dipping nets are 
also successfully employed. 

The water of this river is of the colour of asses' 
milk, which I attributed in part to the limestone 
that in many places forms the bed of the river, 
but principally to the rivulets which fall from 
mountains of the same material. 

These people indulge an extreme superstition 
respecting their fish, as it is apparently their only 
animal food. Flesh they never taste, and one of 
their dogs having picked and swallowed part of 
a bone which we had left, was beaten by his mas- 
ter till he disgorged it. One of my people also 
having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a 
native, who had observed the circumstance, imme- 
diately dived and brought it up, and, having con- 
signed it to the fire, instantly proceeded to wash 
his polluted hands. 

As we were still at some distance from the sea, 
I made application to my friend to procure us a 
canoe or two, with people to conduct us thither. 
After he had made various excuses, I at length 
comprehended that his only objection was to the 

3 L 



JOS JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

embarking venison in a canoe on their river, as 
the fish would instantly smell it and abandon them, 
so that he, his friends, and relations, must starve. 
I soon eased his apprehensions on that point, and 
desired to know what I must do with the venison 
that remained, when he told me to give it to one 
of the strangers whom he pointed out to me, as 
being of a tribe that eat flesh. I now requested 
him to furnish me with some fresh salmon in its 
raw state ; but, instead of complying with my 
wish, he brought me a couple of them roasted, 
observing at the same time, that the current was 
very strong, and would bring us to the next vil- 
lage, where our wants would be abundantly sup- 
plied. In short, he requested that we would make 
haste to depart. This was rather unexpected af- 
ter so much kindness and hospitality, but our ig, 
iiorance of the language prevented us from being 
able to discover the cause. 

At eight this morning, fifteen men armed, the 
friends and relations of these people, arrived by 
land, in consequence of notice sent them in the 
night, immediately after the appearance of our 
guides. They are more corpulent and of a better 
appearance than the inhabitants of the interior. 
Their language totally diiferent from any I had 
heard ; the Atnah or Chin tribe, as far as I can 
judge from the very little I saw of that people, 
bear the nearest resemblance to them. They ap- 
pear to be of a quiet and peaceable character, and 
never make any hostile incursions into the lands of 
their neighbours* 

Their dress consists of a single robe tied over 
the slioulders, falling down behind, to the heels, 
and before, a little below the knees, with a deep 
fringe round the bottom. It is generally made of 
the bark of the cedar tree, which they prepare as 
fine as hemp ; though some of these garments are 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 309 

interwoven with strips of the sea- otter skin, which 
give them the appearance of a fur on one side. 
Others have stripes of red and yellow threads fan- 
cifully introduced toward the borders, which have 
a very agreeable effect. The men have no other 
covering than that which I have described, and 
they unceremoniously lay it aside when they find it 
convenient. In addition to this robe, the women 
wear a close fringe hanging down before them 
about two feet in length, and half as wdde. When 
they sit down they draw this between their thighs. 
They wear their hair so short, that it requires lit- 
tle care or combing. The men have their's in 
plaits, and being smeared with oil and red earth, 
instead of a comb they have a small stick hanging 
by a string from one of the locks, which they em- 
ploy to alleviate any itching or irritation in the 
head. The colour of the eye is grey with a tinge 
of red. They have all high cheek-bones, but the 
women are more remarkable for that feature than 
the men. Their houses, arms, and utensils I shall 
describe hereafter. 

I presented my friend with several articles, and 
also distributed some among others of the natives 
who had been attentive to us. One of my guides 
had been very serviceable in procuring canoes for 
us to proceed on our expedition ; he appeared also 
to be very desirous of giving these people a favour- 
able impression of us ; and I was very much con- 
cerned that he should leave me as lie did, without 
giving me the least notice of his departure, or re- 
ceiving the presents which I had prepared for him, 
and he so well deserved. At noon I had an ob- 
servation which gave 52. 28. 11. North latitude. 



310 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER X. 

Continue our journey. Embark on a ri'ver. Come 
to a weir. Dexterity of the nati'ves in pas- 
sing it. Jrrive at a ijillage. Alarm occa- 
sioned among the nati'ves. The subsequent 
fa'Dourable reception^ accompanied ivith a 
banquet of ceremony. Circumstances of it. 
Description of a village^ its houses^ and places 
of dcDotion, Account of the customs^ mode 
of linking ^ and superstition of the inhabitants. 
Description of the chief's canoe. Leave the 
place ^ and proceed on our voyage. 

July, 1793. 

AT one in the afternoon we embarked, with 
our small baggage, in two canoes, accompa- 
nied by seven of the natives. The stream was 
rapid, and ran upwards of six miles an hour. We 
came to a weir, such as I have already described, 
where the natives landed us, and shot over it with- 
out taking a drop of water. They then received 
us on board again, and we continued our voyage, 
passing many canoes on the river, some with peo- 
ple in them, and others empty. We proceeded at 
a very great rate for about two hours and a half, 
when we were informed that we must land, as the 
village was only at a short distance. I had ima- 
gined that the Canadians who accompanied me 
were the most expert canoe-mcn in the world, but 
they are very inferior to these people, as they them- 
selves acknowledged, in conducting those vessels. 
Some of the Indians ran before us, to annoui-ce 
our approach, when we took our bundles and fol- 
lowed. We had walked along a well- beaten path, 
through a kind of coppice, when we were inform- 
ed of the arrival of our couriers at the houses, by 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 311 

the loud and confused talking of the inhabitants. 
As we approached the edge of the wood, and were 
almost in sight of the houses, the Indians who 
were before me made signs for me to take the lead, 
and that they would follow. The noise and confusion 
of the natives now seemed to encrease, and when 
we came in sight of the village, we saw them run- 
ning from house to house, some armed with bows 
and arrows, others with spears, and many with 
axes, as if in a state of great alarm. This very 
unpleasant and unexpected circumstance, I attri- 
buted to our sudden arrival, and the very short 
notice of it which had been given them. At all 
events, I had but one line of conduct to pursue, 
which was to walk resolutely up to them, without 
manifesting any signs of apprehension at their 
hostile appearance. This resolution produced the 
desired effect, for as we approached the houses, 
the greater part of the people laid down their wea- 
pons, and came forward to meet us. I was, how- 
ever, soon obliged to stop from the number of 
them that surrounded me. I shook hands, as 
usual with such as were the nearest to me, when 
an elderly man broke through the crowd, and took 
me in his arms ; another then came, who turned 
him away without the least ceremony, and paid 
me the same compliment. The latter was fol- 
lowed by a young man, whom I understood to be 
his son. These embraces, vihich at first rather 
surprised me, I soon found to be marks of regard 
and friendship. The crowd pressed with so much 
violence and contention to get a view of us, that 
we could not move in any direction. An opening 
was at length made to allow a person to approach 
me, whom the old man made me understand was 
another of his sons. 1 instantly stepped forward 
to meet him, and presented my hand, whereupon 
he broke the string of a very handsome robe of 



312 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

sea- otter skin, which he had on, and covered me 
with it. This was as flattering a reception as I 
could possibly receive,' especially as I considered 
him to be the eldest son of the chief. Indeed it 
appeared to me that we had been detained here for 
the purpose of giving him time to bring the robe 
with vv^hich he had presented me. 

The chief now made signs for us to follow him, 
and he conducted us through a narrow coppice, for 
several hundred yards, till we came to a house 
built on the ground, which was of larger dimen- 
sions, and formed of better materials than any J 
had hitherto seen ; it was his residence. We 
were no sooner arrived there, than he directed 
mats to be spread before it, on which we were 
told to take our seats, when the men of the village, 
who came to indulge their curiosity, Avere ordered 
to keep behind us. In our front other mats were 
placed, where the chief and his counsellors took 
their seats. In the intervening space, mats, which 
were very clean, and of a much neater w^orkman- 
ship than those on which we sat were also spread, 
and a small roasted salmon placed before each of 
us. When we had satisfied ourselves with the 
fish, one of the people who came with us from the 
last village approached, with a kind of ladle in one 
hand, containing oil, and in the other something 
that resembled the inner rind of the cocoa-nut, 
but of a lighter colour, this he dipped in the oil, 
and, having eat it, indicated by his gestures how 
palatable he thought it. He then presented me 
with a small piece of it, which I chose to taste in 
its dry state, though the oil was free from any un- 
pleasant smell. A square cake of this was next 
produced, when a man took it to the water near 
the house, and having thoroughly soaked it, he 
returned, and, after he had pulled it to pieces like 
oakum, put it into a well-made trough, about 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 313 

three feet long, nine inches wide, and five deep; 
he then plentifully sprinkled it with salmon oil, 
and manifested by his own example that we 
were to eat of it. I just tasted it, and found the 
oil perfectly sweet, without which the other ingre- 
dient would have been very insipid. The chief 
partook of it with great avidity, after it had re- 
ceived an additional quantity ot oil. This dish is 
considered by these people as a great delicacy, and 
on examination, I discovered it to consist of the 
inner rind of the hemlock tree, taken off early in 
summer, and put into a frame, which shapes it 
into cakes of fifteen inches long, ten broad, and 
half an inch thick; and in this form I should sup- 
pose it may be preserved for a great length of time. 
This discovery satisfied me respecting the many 
hemlock trees which I had observed stripped of 
their bark. 

In this situation we remained for upwards of 
three hours, and not one of the curious natives 
left us during all that time, except a party of ten 
or twelve of them, whom the chief ordered to go 
and catch fish, which they did in great abundance, 
with dipping nets, at the foot of the Weir. 

At length we were relieved from the gazing 
crowd, and got a lodge erected, and covered in for 
our reception during the night. I now presented 
the young chief with a blanket, in return for the 
robe with which he had favoured me, and several 
other articles, that appeared to be very gratifying 
to him. I also presented some to his father, and 
amongst them was a pair of scissars, whose use I 
explained to him, for clipping his beard, which 
vv^as of great length ; and to that purpose he im- 
mediately applied them. My distribution of simi- 
lar articles was also extended to others, who had 
been attentive to us. The communication, liow- 
ever, between us was awkward and inconvenient, 



314 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

for it was carried on entirely by signs, as there 
was not a person with me who was qualified for 
the office of an interpreter. 

We were all of us very desirous to get some 
fresh salmon, that we might dress them in our own 
way, but could not by any means obtain that grati- 
fication, though there were thousands of that fish 
strung on cords, which were fastened to stakes in 
the river. They were even averse to our approach- 
ing the spot where they clean and prepare them 
for their own eating. They had, indeed, taken 
our kettle from us, lest we should employ it in 
getting water from the river ; and they assigned as 
the reason for this precaution, that the salmon dis- 
like the smell of iron. At the same time they sup- 
plied us with wooden boxes, which were capable 
of holding any fluid. Two of the men who went 
to fish, in a canoe capable of containing ten peo- 
ple, returned with a full lading of salmon, that 
weighed from six to forty pounds, though the far 
greater part of them were under twenty. They 
immediately strung the whole of them, as I have 
already mentioned, in the river. 

I now made the tour of the village, which con- 
sisted of four elevated houses, and seven built on 
the ground, besides a considerable number of 
other buildings or sheds, which are used only as 
kitchens, and places for curing their fish. The 
former are constructed by fixing a certain number 
of posts in the earth, on some of which are laid, 
and to others are fastened, the supporters of the 
floor, at about twelve feet above the surface of the 
ground; their length is from a hundred to a hun- 
dred and twenty feet, and they are about forty in 
breadth. Along the centre are built three, four, 
or five hearths, for the two-fold purpose of giving 
w^armth, and dressing their fish. The whole 
length of the building on either side is divided by 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 3 1 5 

eedar planks, into partitions or apartments of seven 
feet square, in the front of which there are boards, 
about three feet Tvide, over which, though they are 
not immovably fixed, the inmates of these recesses 
generally pass, when they go to rest. The greater 
part of them are intended for that purpose, and 
such are covered with boards, at the height of the 
wall of the house, which is about seven or eight 
feet, and rest upon beams that stretch across the 
building. On those also are placed the chests 
which contain their provisions, utensils, and what- 
ever they possess. The intermediate space is 
sufficient for domestic purposes. On poles that 
run along the beams, hang roasted fish, and the 
whole building is well covered with boards and 
bark, except within a few inches of the ridge pole; 
where open spaces are left on each side to let in 
light and emit the smoke. At the end of the house 
that fronts the river, is a narrow scafiblding, which 
is also ascended bya piece of timber, with steps cut 
in it ; and at each corner of this erection there are 
openings, for the inhabitants to ease nature. As 
it does not appear to be a custom among them to 
remove these heaps of excremental filth, it may be 
supposed that the effluvia does not annoy them. 

The houses which rest on the ground are built 
of the same materials, and on the same plan. A 
sloping stage that rises to a cross piece of timber, 
supported by two forks, joins also to the main 
building, for those purposes which need not be re- 
peated. 

When we were surrounded by the natives on 
our arrival, I counted sixty-five men, and several 
of them may be supposed to have been absent; I 
cannot, therefore, calculate the inhabitants of this 
village at less than two hundred souls. 
3 M 



S16 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

The people who accompanied us hither, from 
the other village, had given the chief a very parti- 
cular account'of every thing they knew concerning 
us : I was, therefore, requested to produce my 
astronomical instruments , nor could I have any 
objection to afford them this satisfaction, as they 
would necessarily add to our importance in their 
opinion. 

Near the house of the chief I observed several 
oblong squares, of about twenty feet by eight. 
They were made of thick cedar boards, which were 
joined with so much neatness, that I at first thought 
they were one piece. They were painted with 
hieroglyphics, and figures of different animals, 
and with a degree of correctness that was not to be 
expected from such an uncultivated people. I 
could not learn the use of them, but they appeared 
to be calculated for occasional acts of devotion or 
sacrifice, which all these tribes perform at least 
twice in the year, at the spring and fall. I was 
confirmed in this opinion by a large building in 
the middle of the village, which I at first took for 
the half finished frame of a house. The ground- 
plot of it was fifty feet by forty-five; each end is 
formed by four stout posts, fixed perpendicularly 
in the ground. The corner ones are plain, and 
vsupport a beam of the whole length, having three 
intermediate props on each side, but of a larger 
size, and eight or nine feet in height. The two 
centre posts, at each end, are two feet and a half in 
diameter, and carved into human figures, support- 
ing two ridge poles on their heads, at twelve feet 
from the ground. The figures at the upper part of 
this square represent two persons, with their hands 
upon their knees, as if they supported the weight 
with pain and difficulty; the others opposite to 
them stand at their ease, with their hands rest- 
ing on their hips. In the area of the building there 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 317 

were the remains of several fires. The posts, 
poles, and figures, were painted red and black ; but 
the sculpture of these people is superior to their 
painting. 

Friday, 19. Soon after I retired to rest last 
night, the chief paid me a visit to insist on my 
going to his bed-companion, and taking my place 
himself; but, notwithstanding his repeated entrea- 
ties, I resisted this offering of his hospitality. 

At an early hour this morning, I was again vi- 
sited by the chief, in company with his son. The 
former complained of a pain in his breast; to relieve 
his suffering, I gave him a few drops of Turling- 
ton's Balsam on a piece of sugar; and I was rather 
surprised to see him take it without the least he- 
sitation. When he had taken my medicine, he re- 
quested me to follow him, and conducted me to a 
shed, where several people were assembled round 
a sick man, who was another of his sons. They 
immediately uncovered him, and shewed me a vi- 
olent ulcer in the small of his back, in the foulest 
state that can be imagined. One of his knees was 
also afflicted in the same manner. This unhappy 
man was reduced to a skeleton, and, from his ap- 
pearance, was drawing near to an end of his pains. 
They requested that I would touch him, and his 
father was very urgent with me to administer me- 
dicine ; but he was in such a dangerous state, that 
I thought it prudent to yield no further to the im- 
portunities than to to give the sick man a few drops 
of Turlington's balsam in some water. I therefore 
left them, but was soon called back by the loud 
lamentations of the women, and was rather appre- 
hensive that some inconvenience might result from 
my compliance with the chief's request. On my 
return I found the native physicians busy in prac- 
tising their skill and art on the patient. They blew 
on him, and then whistled; at times they pressed 



^18 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE^ 

their extended fingers, with all their strength, on 
his stomach ; they also put their fore fingers dou- 
bled into his mouth, and spouted water from their 
own with great violence into his face. To support 
these operations, the wretched sufferer was held 
up in a sitting posture ; and when they were con- 
cluded, he was laid down and covered with a new 
robe made of the skins of the lynx. I had observed 
that his belly and breast were covered Y>'ith scars, 
and I understood that they were caused by a cus- 
tom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of 
lighted touch-wood to their flesh, in order to re- 
lieve pain or demonstrate their courage. He was 
now placed on a broad plank, and carried by six 
men into the woods, where I was invited to ac- 
company them. I could not conjecture what would 
be the end of this ceremony, particularly as I saw 
one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third dry 
wood. I was indeed, disposed to suspect that, as 
it was their custom to burn the dead, they intended 
to relieve the poor man from his pain, and perform 
the last sad duty of surviving affection. When 
they advanced a short distance into the woods, 
they laid him upon a clear spot, and kindled a fire 
against his back, when the physician began to 
scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instrument, the 
cruel pain of which operation the patient bore with 
incredible resolution. The scene afflicted me, and 
I left it. 

On my return to our lodge, I observed before 
the door of the chief's residence, four heaps of sal- 
mon, each of which consisted of between three 
and four hundred fish. Sixteen women were em- 
ployed in cleaning and preparing them. They 
first separate the head from the body, the former 
of which they boil ; they then cut the latter down 
the back on each side of the bone, leaving one 
third of the fish adhering to it, and afterwards take 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. Sl^ 

out the guts. The bone is roasted for immediate 
use, and the other parts are dressed in the same 
manner, but with more attention, for future pro- 
vision. While they are before the fire, troughs 
are placed under them to receive the oil. The 
roes are also carefully preserved, and form a fa- 
vourite article of their 4bod. 

After I had observed these culinary prepara- 
tions, I paid a visit to the chief, who presented me 
with a roasted salmon ; he then opened one of his 
chests, and took out of it a garment of blue cloth, 
decorated with brass buttons ; and another of 
flowered cotton, which I supposed were Spanish ; 
it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after the 
fashion of their own cloaks. Copper and brass are 
in great estimation among them, and of the former 
they have great plenty : they point their arrows 
and spears with it, and work it up into personal 
ornaments ; such as collars, ear-rings, and bra- 
celets, which they wear on their wrists, arms, and 
legs. I presume they find it the most advanta- 
geous articles of trade with the more inland tribes. 
They also abound in iron. I saw some of their 
twisted collars of that metal which weighed up- 
wards of twelve pounds. It is generally beat in 
bars of fourteen inches in length, and one inch 
three quarters wide. The brass is in thin squares : 
their copper is in larger pieces, and some of it ap- 
peared to be old stills cut up. They have various 
trinkets ; but their manufactured iron consists only 
ofpoignards and daggers. Some of the former have 
very neat handles, with a silver coin of a quarter 
or eighth of a dollar fixed on the end of them. — 
The blades of the latter are from ten to twelve 
inches in length, and about four inches broad at 
tlie top, from which they gradually lessen into a 
point. 



320 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

When I produced my instruments to take an 
altitude, I was desired not to make use of them. 
I could not then discover the cause of this request, 
but I experienced the good effect of the apprehen- 
sion which they occasioned, as it was very effec- 
tual in hastening my departure. I had applied se- 
veral times to the chief to prepare canoes and peo- 
ple to take me and my party to the sea, but very 
little attention had been paid to my application till 
noon ; when I was informed that a canoe was pro- 
perly equipped for my voyage, and that the young 
chief would accompany me. I now discovered 
that they had entertained no personal fear of the in- 
struments, but were apprehensive that the opera- 
tion of them might frighten the salmon from that 
part of the river. The observation taken in this 
village gave me 52. 25. 52. North latitude. 

In compliance with"^the chief's request I desired 
my people to take their bundles, and lay them 
down on the bank of the river. In the mean time 
I went to take the dimensions of his large canoe, 
in which, it was signified to me, that about ten 
winters ago he went a considerable distance to- 
w^ards the mid-day sun, with forty of his people, 
when he saw two large vessels full of such men as 
myself, by whom he was kindly received : they 
were, he said, the first white people he had seen. 
They were probably the ships commanded by 
Captain Cook. This canoe was built of cedar, 
forty-five feet long, four feet wide, aud three feet 
and a half in depth. It was painted black and de- 
corated with white figures of fish of different kinds. 
The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with the 
teeth of the sea-otter.* 

* As Captain Cook has mentioned, that the people of the sea-coast 
adonied their canoes with human teeth, I was more particular in my in- 
quiries ; the result of which was, the most satisfactory proof, that he 
was mistaken ; but his mistake arose from the very great resemblance 
there is between human teeth and those of the sea-otter. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 321 

When I returned to the river, the natives who 
were to accompany us, and my people, were al- 
ready in the canoe. The latter, however, inform- 
ed me, that one of our axes was missing. I im- 
mediately applied to the chief, and requested its 
restoration; but he would not understand me till 
I sat myself down on a stone, with my arms in a 
state of preparation, and made it appear to him 
that I should not depart till the stolen article was 
restored. The village was immediately in a state 
of uproar, and some danger was apprehended from 
the confusion that prevailed in it. The axe, how- 
ever, which had been hidden under the chief's 
canoe, was soon returned. Though this instru- 
ment was not, in itself, of sufficient value to justify 
a dispute with these people, I apprehended that the 
suffering them to keep it, after we had declared 
its loss, might have occasioned the loss of every 
thing we carried with us, and of our lives also. 
My people were dissatisfied with me at the mo- 
ment ; but I thought myself right then, and, I 
think now, that the circumstances in which we 
were involved, justified the measure which I 
adopted. 



322 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER XI. 

Renevj our tjoyage. Circumstances of the river. 
Land at the house of a chief. Entertained by 
him. Carried doijon the river with great ra^ 
pidity to another house. Received with kind* 
ness. Occupations of the inhabitants on its 
banks. Leave the canoe at a fall. Pass over 
land to another village. Some account of it. 
Obtain a view of an arm of the sta. Lose our 
dog. Procure another canoe. Arrive at the 
arm of the sea. Circumstances of it. One of 
our guides returns home. Coast along a bay. 
Some description of it. Meet with Indians, 
Our communication with them. Their sus- 
picious conduct towards us. Pass onivards. 
Determine the latitude and longitude. Return 
to the river. Dangerous encounter with the 
Indians. Proceed on our journey. 

July, 1793. 

Saturday^ 18. AT one in the afternoon we re- 
newed our voyage in a large canoe with four of 
the natives. We found the river almost one con- 
tinued rapid, and in half an hour we came to a 
house, where, however, we did not land, though 
invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we 
arrived at tv/o houses, where we were, in some 
degree, obliged to go on shore, as we were in- 
formed that the owner of them was a person of 
consideration. He indeed received and regaled 
us in the same manner as at the last village ; and 
to increase his consequence, he produced many 
European articles, and amongst them were at 
least forty pounds weight of old copper stills. We 
made our stay as short as possible, and our host 
embarked with us. In a very short time we were 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 523 

carried by the rapidity of the current to another 
house of very large dimensions, which was par- 
titioned into different apartments, and whose doors 
were on the side. The inhabitants received us 
with great kindness ; but instead of fish, they 
placed a long, clean, and well made trough be- 
fore us full of berries. In addition to those which 
we had already seen, there were some black, that 
were larger than the hurtle-berry, and of a richer 
flavour ; others white, which resembled the black- 
berry in every thing but colour. Here we saw a 
woman with two pieces of copper in her under lip, 
as described by Captain Cook. I continued my 
usual practice of making these people presents in 
return for their friendly reception and entertain- 
ment. 

The navigation of the river now became more 
difficult, from the numerous channels into which 
it was divided, without any sensible diminution 
in the velocity of its current. We soon reached 
another house of the common size, where we were 
well received ; but whether our guides had in- 
formed them that we we were not in want of any 
thing, or that they were deficient in inclination, 
or perhaps the means, of being hospitable to us, 
they did not offer us any refreshment. They were 
in a state of busy preparation. Some of the women 
were employed in beating and preparing the inner 
rind of the cedar bark, to which they gave the ap- 
pearance of flax. Others were spinning with a 
distaflF and spindle. One of them was weaving a 
robe of it, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter 
skin, on a frame of adequate contrivance that was 
placed against the side of the house. The men 
were fishing on the river with drag-nets between 
two canoes. These nets are forced by poles to 
the bottom, the current driving them before it ; 
by which means the salmon coming up the river 

3 N 



324 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

are intercepted, and give notice of their being 
taken by the struggles they make in the bag or 
sleeve of the net. There are no weirs in this part 
of the river, as I suppose, from the numerous 
channels into which it is divided. The machines, 
therefore, are placed along the banks, and conse- 
quently these people are not so w^ell supplied w^ith 
fish as the village which has been already des- 
cribed, nor do they appear to possess the same in- 
dustry. The inhabitants of the last house accom- 
panied us in a large canoe. They recommended 
us to leave ours here, as the next village was but 
at a small distance from us, and the water more 
rapid than that which we had passed. They in- 
formed us also, that we were approaching a cas- 
cade. I directed them to shoot it, and proceeded 
myself to the foot thereof, where I re-embarked, 
and we went on with great velocity, till we came 
to a fall, where we left our canoe, and carried our 
luggage along a road through a wood for some 
hundred yards, when we came to a village, con- 
sisting of six very large houses, erected on pal- 
lisades, rising twenty-five feet from the ground, 
which diiTered in no one circumstance from those 
already described, but the height of their eleva- 
tion. They contained only four men and their 
families. The rest of the inhabitants were with 
us and in the small houses which we passed higher 
up the river.* These people do not seem to en- 
joy the abundance of their neighbours, as the men 
w^ho returned from fishing had no more than five 
salmon ; they refused to sell one of them, but 
gave me one roasted of a very indifferent kind. In 
the houses there were several chests or boxes con- 
taining different articles that belonged to the 



* Mr. Johnstone came to these houses the first day of the preceding 
month. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 32 5 

the people whom we had lately passed. If I were 
to judge by the heaps of filth beneath these build- 
ings, they must have been erected at a more dis- 
tant period than any which we had passed. From 
these houses I could perceive the termination of 
the river, and its discharge into a narrow arm of 

the sea. 

As it was now half past six in the evening, and 
the weather cloudy, 1 determined to remain here 
for the night, and for that purpose we possessed 
ourselves of one of the unoccupied houses. The 
remains of our last meal, which we brought with 
us, served for our supper, as we could not pro- 
cure a single fish from the natives. The course 
of the river is about West, and the distance from 
the great village upwards of thirty. six miles. — 
There we had lost our dog, a circumstance of no 
small regret to me. 

Saturday, 20. We rose at a very early hour 
this morning, when I proposed to the Indians to 
run down our canoe, or procure another at this 
place. To both these proposals they turned a 
deaf ear, as they imagined that I should be satis- 
fied with having come in sight of the sea. Two 
of them peremptorily refused to proceed ; but the 
other two having consented to continue with us, 
we obtained a larger canoe than our former one, 
and though it was in a leaky state we were glad 
to possess it. 

At about eight vre got out of the river, which 
discharges itself by various channels into an arm 
of the sea. The tide was out, and had left a large 
space covered with sea- weed. The surrounding 
hills were involved in fog. The wind was at West, 
which was a-head of us, and very strong ; the bay 
appearing to be from one to three miles in breadth. 
As we advanced along the land we saw a great num- 
ber of sea-otters. We fired several shots at them, 



326 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

but without any success from the rapidity with 
which they plunge under the v/ater. We also 
saw many small porpoises or divers. The white- 
headed eagle, which is common in the interior 
parts; some small guils, a dark bird which is inferior 
in size to the gull, and a few small ducks, were all 
the birds which presented themselves to our 
view. 

At two in the afternoon the swell was so high, 
and the wind, which was against us, so boisterous, 
that we could not proceed with our leaky vessel, 
we therefore landed in a small cove on the right 
side of the bay. Opposite to us appeared another 
small bay, in the mouth of which is an island, and 
where, according to the information of the Indians, 
a river discharges itself that abounds in salmon. 

Our young Indians now discovered a very evi- 
dent disposition to leave us ; and, in the evening, 
one of them made his escape. Mr. Mackey, how- 
ever, with the other, pursued and brought him 
back ; but as it was by no means necessary to de- 
tain him, particularly as provisions did not abound 
with us, I gave him a small portion, with a pair 
of shoes, which were necessary for his journey, 
and a silk handkerchief, telling him at the same 
time, that he might go and inform his friends, 
that we should also return in three nights. He 
accordinely left us, and his companion, the young 
chief, went with him. 

When w^e landed, the tide was going out, and 
at a quarter past four it was ebb, the water having 
fallen in 'hat short period eleven feet and an half. 
Since we left the river, not a quarter of an hour 
had passed in which we did not see porpoises and 
sea-otters. Soon after ten it was high water, 
which rendered it necessary that our baggage 
should be shifted several tim^es, though not till 
some of the things had been wxtted. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 327 

We were now reduced to the necessity of look- 
ing out for fresh water, with which we were plen- 
tifully supplied by the rills that ran down from the 
mountains. 

When it was dark the young chief returned to 
us, bearing a large porcupine on his back. He first 
cut the animal open, and having disencumbered 
it of the entrails, threw them into the sea ; he 
then singed its skin, and boiled it in separate 
pieces, as our kettle was not sufficiently capacious 
to contain the whole ; nor did he go to rest, till 
with the assistance of two of my people who hap- 
pened to be awake, every morsel of it was de- 
voured. 

I had flattered myself with the hope of getting a 
distance of the moon and stars, but the cloudy 
w^eather continually disappointed me, and I began 
to fear that I should fail in this important object ; 
particularly as our provisions were at a very low 
ebb, and we had, as yet, no reason to expect any 
assistance from the natives. Our stock was, at 
this time, reduced to twenty pounds weight of 
pemmican, fifteen pounds of rice, and six pounds 
of flour, among ten half- starved men, in a leaky 
vessel, and on a barbarous coast. Our course 
from the river was about West-South- West, dis- 
tance ten miles. 

Sunday ^2\. At forty minutes past four this 
morning it was low water, which made fifteen feet 
perpendicular height below the high-water mark of 
last night. Mr. Mackey collected a quantity of 
small muscles which we boiled. Our people did 
not partake of this regale, as they are wholly unac- 
quainted with sea shell-fish. Our young chief being 
missing, we imagined that he had taken his flight, 
but, as we were preparing to depart, he fortu nately 
made his appearance from the woods, where he had 
been to take his rest after his feast of last night. 



328 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

At six we were upon the water, when we 
cleared the small bay, which we named Porcupine 
Cove, and steered West- South- West for seven 
miles, we then opened a channel about two miles 
and a half wide at South- South- West, and had a 
view of ten or twelve miles into it. 

As 1 could not ascertain the distance from the 
open sea, and being uncertain whether we were in 
a bay or among inlets and channels of islands, I 
confined my search to a proper place for taking an 
observation. We steered, therefore, along the 
land on the left, West-North-West a mile and a 
half; then North- West one fourth of a mile, and 
North three miles to an island ; the land continu- 
ing to run North-North- West, then along the 
island, South-South-West half a mile, West a 
mile and a half, and from thence directly across 
to the land on the left, (where I had an altitude,) 
South- West three miles.* From this position a 
channel, of which the island we left appeared to 
make a cheek, bears North by East. 

Under the land we met with three canoes, with 
fifteen men in them, and laden with their move- 
ables, as if proceeding to a new situation, or re- 
turning to a former one. They manifested no 
kind of mistrust or fear of us, but entered into 
conversation with our young man, as I supposed, 
to obtain some information concerning us. It did 
not appear that they were the same people as those 
we had lately seen, as they spoke the language of 
our young chief, with a different accent. They 
then examined every thing we had in our canoe, 
with an air of indifference and disdain. One of 
them in particular made me understand, with an 
air of insolence, that a large canoe had lately been 
in this bay, with people in her like me, and that 

* Th,€ Cape or Point Menaies of Vancouver. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 329 

one of them, whom he called Macuhah had fired on 
him and his friends, and that Bensins had struck 
him on the back, with the flat part of his sword. 
He also mentioned another name, the articulation 
of which I could not determine. At the same time 
he illustrated these circumstances bj the assistance 
of my gun and sword; and I do not doubt but he 
well deserved the treatment which he described. 
He also produced several European articles, which 
could not have been long in his possession. From 
his conduct and appearance, I wished very- 
much to be rid of him, and flattered myself that he 
would prosecute his voyage, which appeared to be 
in an opposite direction to our course. However, 
when I prepared to part from them, they turned 
their canoes about, and persuaded my young man 
to leave me, which I could not prevent! 

We coasted along the land* at about West- 
South- West for six miles, and met a canoe with 
two boys in it, who were dispatched to summon 
the people on that part of the coast to join them. 
The troublesome fellow now forced himself into 
my canoe, and pointed out a narrow channel on 
the opposite shore, that led to his village, and re- 
quested us to steer towards it, which I according- 
ly ordered. His importunities now became very 
irksome, and he w^anted to see every thing we had, 
particularly my instruments, concerning which he 
must have received information from^ my young 
man. He asked for my hat, my handkerchief, and 
in short, every thing that he saw about me. At 
the same time he frequently repeated the unpleasant 
intelligence that he had been shot at by people of 
my colour. At some distance from the land a chan- 
nel opened to us, at South-West by West, and 
pointing that way, he made me understand that 

' Named by Vancouver King's Island, 



330 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Macuhah came there with his large canoe. When 
we were in mid- channel, I perceived some sheds, 
or the remains of old buildings on the shore ; and 
as, from that circumstance I thought it probable 
that some Europeans might have been there I di- 
rected my steersman to make for that spot. The 
traverse is upwards of three miles North- West. 

"We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in 
a situation calculated for defence. The place itself 
was overgrown wdth weeds, and in the centre of 
the houses there was a temple, of the same form 
and construction as that which I described at the 
large village. We were soon followed by ten ca- 
noes, each of which contained from three to six 
men. They informed us that we were expected 
at the village, where we should see many of them. 
From their general deportment I was very appre- 
hensive that some hostile design was meditated 
against us, and for the first time I acknowledged 
my apprehensions to my people. I accordingly 
desired them to be very much upon their guard, 
and to be prepared if any violence was offered to 
defend themselves to the last. 

We had no sooner landed, than we took posses- 
sion of a rock, where there was not space for more 
than twice our number, and which admitted of our 
defending ourselves with advantage, in case we 
should be attacked. The people in the three first 
canoes, were the most troublesome, but, after 
doing their utmost to irritate us, they w^ent away. 

They were, however, no sooner gone, than a hat, 
a handkerchief, and several other articles, vvere 
missing. The rest of our visitors continued their 
pressing invitations to accompany them to their 
village, but finding our resolution to decline them 
was not to be shaken, they, about sun-set relieved 
us from all further importunities, by their depar- 
turc. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 33.1 

Another canoe, however, scon arrived, with se- 
ven stout, well-looking men. They brought a 
box, which contained a very fine sea-otter skin, 
and a goat skin that was beautifully white. For 
the former they demanded my hanger, which, as 
may well be suppposed, could not be spared in 
our present situation, and they actually refused 
to take a yard and a half of common broad cloth, 
with some other articles, for the skin, which proves 
the unreflecting improvidence our European tra- 
ders. The goat- skin was so bulky that I did not 
offer to purchase it. These men also told me that 
Macuhah had been there, and left his ship behind 
a point of land in the channel, South- West from 
us ; from whence he had come to their village in 
boats, which these people represented by imitat- 
ing our manner of rowing. When I offered them 
what they did not choose to accept for the otter- 
skin, they shook their heads, and very distincly 
answered, '' No, no." And to mark their refusal 
of any thing we asked from them, they emphatic 
cally employed the same British monosyllable. In 
one of the canoes which had left us, there was a 
seal, that I wished to purchase, but could not 
persuade the natives to part with it. They had 
also a fish, which I now saw for the first time. It 
was about eighteen inches in length, of the shape 
and appearance of a trout, with strong sharp teeth. 
We saw great numbers of the animals which we 
had taken for sea-otters, but I was now disposed to 
think that a great part of them, at least, must have 
been seals. 

The natives having left us, we m.ade a fire to 
warm ourselves, and as for supper, there wtiS but 
little of that, for our whole daily allov/ance did not 
amount to what was sufficient for a single meal. 
The weather was clear throughout the day, which 
was succeeded by a fine moon-light night. I di- 

3 o 



332 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

rected the people to keep watch by two in turn, 
and laid myself down in my cloak. 

Monday^ 22. This morning the weather was 
clear and pleasant ; nor had any thing occurred to 
disturb us throughout the night. One solitary In- 
dian, indeed, came to us with about half a pound 
of boiled seal's flesh, and the head of a small sal- 
mon, for which he asked a handkerchief, but after- 
wards accepted a few beads. As this man came 
alone, I concluded that no general plan had been 
formed among the natives to annoy us, but this 
opinion did not altogether calm the apprehensions 
of my people. 

Soon after eight in the morning, I took five alti- 
tudes for time, and the mean of them was 36° 48' 
at six in the afternoon, 58. 34. time, by the watch, 
which makes the achrometer slow apparent time 

Two canoes now arrived from the same quarter 
as the rest, with several men, and our young Indian 
along with them. They brought a very few small 
sea-otter skins, out of season, with some pieces of 
raw seal's flesh. The former were of no value, 
but hunger compelled some of my people to take 
the latter, at an extravagant price. Mr. Mackay 
lighted a bit of touch-wood with a burning-glass, 
in the cover of his tobacco-box, which so sur- 
prised the natives, that they exchanged the best of 
their otter skins for it. The young man was now 
very anxious to persuade our people to depart, as 
the natives, he said, were as numerous asmusqui- 
toes, and of very malignant character. This in- 
formation produced some very earnest remonstran- 
ces to me to hasten our departure, but as I was 
determined not to leave this place, except I was 
absolutely compelled to it, till I had ascertained its 
situatipn, these solicitations were not repeated. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 333 

While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, of 
a larger size, and well manned, appeared from the 
main South- West channel. They seemed to be 
the fore-runners of others, who were coming to co- 
operate with the people of the village, in conse- 
quence of the m.essage sent by the two boys, which 
has been already mentioned; and our young In- 
dian, who understood them, renewed his entreaties 
for our departure, as they would soon come to 
shoot their arrows, and hurl their spears at us. In 
relating our danger, his agitation was so violent, 
that he foamed at the mouth. Though I was not 
altogether free from apprehensions on the occasion, 
it w^as necessary for me to disguise them, as my 
people were panic-struck, and some of them asked 
if it was my determination to remain there to be 
sacrificed? My reply was the same as their former 
importunities had received, that I would not stir 
till I had accom.plished my object; at the same 
time, to humour their fears, I consented that they 
should put every thing into the canoe, that we 
might be in a state of preparation to depart. The 
two canoes now approached the shore, and in a 
short time, five men, with their families, landed 
very quietly from them. My instruments being 
exposed, they examined them with much apparent 
admiration and astonishment. My altitude, by an 
artificial horizon, gave 52° 21^ 33"; that by the 
natural horizon was 52° 20^ 48" North latitude*. 
These Indians were of a different tribe from 
those which I had already seen, as our guide did 
not understand their language. I now mixed up 
some Vermillion in melted grease, and inscribed, 
in large characters, on the South-East face of the 
rock on which we had slept last night, this brief 
memorial — " Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, 

* Tliis I found to be the che-ek of Vaticouver's Cascade Cana]. 



534 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

by land, the twenty -second of July, one thousand 
seven hundred and ninety-three." 

As I thought that we were too near the village,! 
consented to leave this place, and acccordingly 
proceeded North- East three miles, when we land- 
ed on a point, in a small cove, where we should 
not be readily seen, and could not be attacked ex- 
cept in our front. 

Among other articles that had been stolen from 
us, at our last station, was a sounding-line, which 
I intended to have employed in this bay, though I 
should not probably have found the bottom, at any 
distance from the shore, as the appearance both of 
the water and land indicated a great depth. The 
latter displayed a solid rock, rising as it appeared 
to me, from three to seven hundred feet above 
high water mark. Where any soil was scattered 
about, there were cedars, spruce-firs, white birch, 
and other trees of large growth. From its preci- 
pices issued streams of fine water, as cold as ice. 

The two canoes which we had left at our last 
station, followed us hither, and v/hen they were 
preparing to depart, our young chief embarked 
with them, I was determined, however, to prevent 
his escape, and compelled him, by actual force, to 
come on shore, for I thought it much better to 
incur his displeasure than to suffer him to expose 
himself to any untoward accident among strangers, 
or to return to his father before us. The men in 
the canoe made signs for him to go over the hill, 
and that they would take him on board at the other 
side of it. i\s I was necessarily engaged in other 
matters, I desired my people to take care that he 
should not run away; but they peremptorily refu- 
sed to be employed in keeping him against his will. 
I was, therefore, reduced to the necessity of watch- 
in ?>; him mvself. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 335 

I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 
29. 23. 48. at 3. 5. 53. in the afternoon, by the 
watch, which makes it slow apparent time 

1^ 22^^^ 38^ 
In the forenoon it was 1 21 44 2 44 22 



Mean of both . 1 22 11 
Difference nine hours going of 7 ^ 

the time-piece slow 5 

1 22 19 
I observed an emersion of Jupiter's third satel- 
lite, which gave 8° 32' 21. difference of longitude. 
I then observed an emersion of Jupiter's first sa- 
tellite, which gave 8° 31' 48. The mean of these 
observations is 8° 32' 2. which is equal to 128. 2. 
West of Greenwich. 

I had now determined my situation, which is the 
most fortunate circumstance of my long, painful, 
and perilous journey, as a few^ cloudy days would 
have prevented me from ascertaining the final lon- 
gitude of it*. 

At twelve it was high water, but the tide did 
not come within a foot and an half of the high 
water mark of last night. As soon as I had com- 
pleted my observations, we left this place : it was 
then ten o'clock in the afternoon. We returned 
the same way that we came, and though the tide 



* Mr. Meares was undoubtedly wrong in the idea, so earnestly insisted 
on by him, in his voyage, that there was a North-West practicable pas- 
sage to the Southward of sixty-nine degrees and an half of latitude, as 
I flatter myself has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I refrain 
from expressing my surprise at his assertion, that there was an inland 
sea or archipelago of great extent between the islands of Nootka and 
the main, about the latitude where I was at tliis time. Indeed I have 
been informed that Captain Grey, who commanded an American vessel, 
and on whose authority he ventured this opinion, denies that he had 
given Mr. Meares any such inform?.tion. Besides, the contrary is in- 
dubitably proved by Captain Vancouver's survey, from which no appeal 
can be made. 



356 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

\):as running out very strong, by keeping close in 
with the rocks, we proceeded at a considerable 
rate, as my people were very anxious to get out of 
the reach of the inhabitants of this coast. 

Tuesday^ 23. During our course we saw se- 
veral fires on the land to the Southward, and after 
the day dawned, their smokes were visible. At 
half past four this morning we arrived at our en- 
campment of the night of the 21st, which had been 
named Porcupine Cove. The tide was out, and 
considerably lower than we found it when we were 
here before ; the high-water mark being above the 
place where we liad made our fire. This fluctua- 
tion must be occasioned by the action of the wind 
upon the water, in those narrow channels. 

As we continued onwards, towards the river, 
we saw a canoe, well manned, which at first made 
from us with great expedition, but afterwards 
waited, as if to reconnoitre us ; however, it kept 
out of our way, and allowed us to pass. The tide 
being much loAvcr than when we were here before, 
we were under the necessity of landing a mile be- 
low the village. We observed that stakes were 
fixed in the ground along the bay, and in some 
places machines were fastened to them, as I after- 
wards learned, to intercept the seals and otters. 
These works are very extensive, and must have 
been erected with no common labour. The 
only bird we saw to-day was the white headed 
eagle*. 

Our guide directed us to draw the canoe out of 
the reach of the tide and to leave it. He would 
not wait, however, till this operation was per- 
formed, and I did not wish to let him go alone. 
I therefore followed him through a bad road en- 
cumbered with underwood. When we had quitted 

' Thisbav was now named Mackenzie's Outlet. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 337 

the wood, and were in sight of the houses, the 
young man being about fifteen or twenty paces 
before me, I was surprised to see two men run- 
ning down towards me from one of the houses, 
with daggers in their hands and fury in their 
aspect. From their hostile appearance, I could 
not doubt of their purpose. I therefore stopped 
short, threw down my cloak, and put myself in 
a posture of defence, with my gun presented to- 
wards them. Fortunately for me, they knew the 
effect of lire-arms, and instantly dropped their 
daggers, which were fastened by a string to their 
wrists, and had before been held in a menacing 
attitude. I let my gun also fall into my left hand, 
and drew my hanger. Several others soon joined 
them, w^ho were armed in the same manner ; and 
among them I recognised the man whom I have 
already mentioned as being so troublesome to us, 
and who now repeated the names of Macuba and 
Benzins, signifying at the same time by his ac- 
tion, as on a former occasion, that he had been 
shot at by them. Until I saw him my mind was 
undisturbed ; but the moment he appeared, con- 
ceiving that he was the cause of my present peril- 
ous situation, my resentment predominated, and 
if he had come within my reach, I verily believe, 
that I should have terminated his insolence for 
ever. 

The rest now approached so near, that one of 
them contrived to get behind me, and grasped me 
in his arms. I soon disengaged myself from him ; 
and, that he did not avail himself of the opportunity 
which he had of plunging his dagger into me, I 
cannot conjecture. They certainly might have 
overpowered me, and though I should probably 
have killed one or two of them, I must have fallen 
at last. 



338 JOURNAL OP A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

One of my people now came out of the wood. 
On his appearance they instantly took to flight, 
and with the utmost speed sought shelter in the 
houses from whence they had issued. It was, 
however, upwards of ten minutes before all my 
people joined me ; and as they came one after the 
other, these people might have successively dis- 
patched every one of us. If they had killed me, 
in the first instance, this consequence would cer- 
tainly have followed, and not one of us would have 
returned home to tell the horrid fate of his com- 
panions. 

After having stated the danger I had encoun- 
tered, I told my people that I was determined to 
make these natives feel the impropriety of their 
conduct toward us, and compel them to return 
my hat and cloak which they had taken in the 
scuffle, as well as the articles previously purloin- 
ed from us , for most of the men who were in the 
three canoes that we first saw, were now in the 
village. I therefore told my men to prime their 
pieces afresh, and prepare themselves for an ac- 
tive use of them, if the occasion should require it. 

We now drew up before the house, and made 
signs for some one to come down to us. At 
length our young chief appeared, and told us that 
the men belonging to the canoes had not only in- 
formed his friends, that we had treated him very 
ill, but that we had killed four of their companions 
whom we had met in the bay. When I had ex- 
plained to them as well as it was in my power, the 
falsehood of such a story, I insisted on the resto- 
ration of every thing that had been taken from us, 
as well as a necessary supply of fish, as the con- 
ditions of my departure ; accordingly the things 
were restored, and a few dried fish along with 
them. A reconciliation novv^ took place, but our 
guide or young chief was so mAich terrified that he 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 339 

would remain no longer with us, and requested us 
to follow with his father's canoe, or mischief would 
follow. I determined, however, before my de- 
parture, to take an observation, and at noon got 
a meridian altitude, making this place, which I 
named Rascal's Village, 52. 23. 43. North lati- 
tude. 

On my informing the natives that we wanted 
something more to eat, they brought us two sal- 
mon ; and when we signified that we had no poles 
to set the canoe against the current, they were 
furnished with equal alacrity, so anxious were 
they for our departure. I paid, however, for 
every thing which we had received, and did not 
forget the loan of the canoe. 



3 p 



340 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER XII. 

Return up the rher. Slow progress of the canoe, 
from the strength of the current. The hostile 
party of the 7iatives precede us. Impetuous 
conduct of 7ny people. Continue our 'very te- 
dious voyage. Come to some houses ; recei'Ded 
with great kifidness. Arrive at the principal^ 
or Salmon Village, Our present reception 
very different from that%ve experienced on our 
former visit. Continue our jour?iey. Cir- 
cumstances of it. Find our dog. Arrive at 
the Upper ^ or Friendly Village , Meet with 
a very kind reception. Some further account 
of the manners and customs of its inhabitants. 
Brief vocabulary of their language, 

July, 1793. 

THE current of the river was so strong, that I 
should have complied with the wishes of my peo- 
ple, and gone by land, but one of my Indians was 
so weak, that it was impossible for him to perform 
the journey. He had been ill some time ; and, 
indeed, we had been all of us more or less afflicted 
with colds on the sea coast. Four of the people 
therefore set off with the canoe, and it employed 
them an hour to get half a mile. In the mean 
time the native, who has been already mentioned 
as having treated us with so much insolence, and 
four of his companions, went up the river in a 
canoe, which they had above the rapid, with as 
many boxes as men in her. This circumstance 
was the cause of fresh alarm, as it was generally 
concluded that they would produce the same mis- 
chief and danger in the villages above, as they had 
in that below. Nor was it forgotten that the young 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 341 

chief had left us in a manner which would not be 
interpreted in our favour by his father and friends. 
At length the canoe arrived, and the people de- 
clared in the most unreserved terms, that they 
would proceed no further in her ; but when they 
were made acquainted with the circumstances 
which have just been described, their violence 
increased, and the greater part of the men announ- 
ced their determination to attempt the mountains, 
and endeavour, by passing over them, to gain the 
road by which we came to the tirst village. So 
resolved w^ere they to pursue this plan, that they 
threw every thing which they had into the river, 
except their blankets. I was all this time sitting 
patiently on a stone, and indulging the hope that, 
when their frantic terror had subsided, their re- 
turning reason w^ould have disposed them to per- 
ceive the rashness of their project ; but when I 
observed that they persisted in it, I no longer re- 
mained a silent listener to their passionate decla- 
rations, but proceeded to employ such arguments 
as I trusted would turn them from their senseless 
and impracticable purpose. After reproving my 
young Indian in very severe terms, for encourag- 
ing the rest to follow their mad design of passing 
the mountains, I addressed myself generally to 
them, stating the difficulty of ascending the moun- 
tains, the eternal snow^s with which they were co- 
vered, our small stock of provisions, which two 
days v/ould exhaust, and the consequent proba- 
bility that we should perish with cold and hunger. 
I urged the folly of being affected by the alarm of 
danger which might not exist, and if it did, I en- 
couraged them with the means we possessed of 
surmounting it. Nor did I forget to urge the in- 
humanity and injustice of leaving the poor sick 
Indian to languish and die. I also added, that as 
my particular object had been accomplished, I 



342 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

had now no other but our common safety ; that 
the sole wish of my heart was to employ the best 
means in my power, and to pursue the best me- 
thod which my understanding could suggest, to 
secure them and myself from every danger that 
might impede our return. 

My steersman, who had been with me for five 
years in that capacity, instantly replied that he was 
ready to follow me wherever I should go, but that 
he would never again enter that canoe, as he had 
solemnly sworn he would not, while he was in the 
rapid. His example was followed by all the rest, 
except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,* 
myself, and the sick Indian. The current, how- 
ever, was so strong, that we dragged up the great- 
est part of the way, bj'- the branches of trees. Our 
progress, as may be imagined, was very tedious, 
and attended with uncommon labour ; the party 
who went by land being continually obliged to 
wait for us. Mr. Mackay's gun was carried out 
of the canoe and lost, at a time when we appeared 
to stand in very great need of it, as two canoes, 
with sixteen or eighteen men, were coming down 
the stream ; and the apprehensions which they oc- 
casioned did not subside till they shot by us with 
great rapidity. 

At length we came in sight of the house, when 
we saw our young Indian with six others, in a 
canoe coming to meet us. This was a very en^ 
couraging circumstance, as it satisfied us that the 
natives who had preceded, and whose malignant 
designs we had every reason to suspect, had not 
been able to prejudice the people against us. We, 
therefore, landed at the house, where we were 
received in a friendly manner, and having pro- 
cured some fish, we proceeded on our journey. 

* It is but common justice to him, to mention in this place that I liad 
every reason to be satisfied with his corduct. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 343 

It was almost dark when w^e arrived at the next 
house, and the first persons who presented them- 
selves to our observation were the turbulent Indian 
and his four companions. They were not very 
agreeable objects; but we were nevertheless well 
received by the inhabitants, who presented us with 
fish and berries. The Indians who had caused us 
so much alarm, we now discovered to be inhabit- 
ants of the islands, and traders in various articles, 
such as cedar- bark, prepared to be wove into mats, 
fish-spawn, copper, iron, and beads, the latter of 
which they get on their own coast. For these 
they receive in exchange roasted salmon, hemlock- 
bark cakes, and the other kind made of salmon 
roes, sorrel, and bitter berries. Having procured 
as much fish as would serve us for our supper, and 
the meals of the next day, all my people went to 
rest except one, with whom I kept the first watch. 

Wednesday^ 24. After twelve last night, I called 
up Mr. Mackay, and one of the men, to relieve us, 
but as a general tranquillity appeared to prevail in 
the place, I recommended them to return to their 
rest. I was the first awake in the morning, and 
sent Mr. Mackay to see if our canoe remained 
where we left it; but he returned to inform me 
that the Islanders had loaded it w ith their articles 
of trafiic, and were ready to depart. On this intel- 
ligence I hurried to the water side, and seizing the 
canoe by the stem, I should certainly have overset 
it, and turned the three men that were in it, with 
all their merchandise, into the river, had not one 
of the people of the house, who had been very 
kind to us, informed me, that this was their own 
canoe, and that my guide had gone oft' with ours. 
At the same moment the other two Indians who 
belonged to the party, jumped nimbly into it, and 
pushed off* v/ith all the haste and hurry that their 
fears may be supposed to dictate. 



S44 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We now found ourselves once more without a 
guide or a canoe. We were, however, so fortu- 
nate as to engage, without much difficulty, two of 
these people to accompany us ; as, from the strength 
of the current, it would not have been possible for 
us to have proceeded by water without their assist- 
ance. As the house was upon an island, we ferried 
over the pedestrian party to the main bank of the 
river, and continued our course till our conductors 
came to their fishing ground, when they proposed 
to land us, and our small portion of baggage ; but 
as our companions were on the opposite shore, we 
could not acquiesce, and after some time persuaded 
them to proceed further with us. Soon after we 
met the chief who had regaled us in our voyage 
down the river. He was seining between two ca- 
noes, and had taken a considerable quantity of sal- 
mon. He took us on board with him, and pro- 
ceeded upwards with great expedition. These 
people are surprisingly skilful and active in setting 
against a strong current. In the roughest part they 
almost filled the canoe with water, by way of a 
sportive alarm to us. 

We landed at the house of the chief, and he im- 
mediately placed a fish before me. Our people 
now appeared on the opposite bank, when a canoe 
was sent for them. As soon as they had made 
their meal of fish, they proceeded on their route, 
and we followed them; the chief and one of the na- 
tives having undertaken to conduct us. 

At five in the afternoon we came to two houses, 
which we had not seen in going down. They were 
upon an island, and I was obliged to send for the 
walking party, as our conductors, from the lateness 
of the hour, refused to proceed any further with 
us till the next day. One of our men, being at 
a small distance before the others, had been at- 
tacked by a female bear with two cubs, but ano- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 345 

ther of them arrived to his rescue, and shot her. 
Their fears probably prevented them from killing 
the two young ones. They brought a part of tlie 
meat, but it was very indifferent. We were in- 
formed that our former guide, or young chief, had 
passed this place, at a very early hour of the morn- 
ing, on foot. 

These people take plenty of another fish, besides 
salmon, which weigh from fifteen to forty pounds. 
This fish is broader than the salmon, of a greyish 
colour, and with a hunch on its back : the fiesh is 
white, but neither rich nor well flavoured. Its jaw 
and teeth are like those of a dog, and the latter arc 
ku'ger and stronger than any I had ever seen in a 
fish of equal size : those in front bend inwards, 
like the ckuvs of a bird of prey. It delights in 
shallow^ water, and its native name is Dilly. 

We received as many fish and berries from these 
people as completely satisfied our appetites. The 
latter excelled any of the kind that we had seen. I 
saw also, three kinds of gooseberries, which, as we 
passed through the woods, we found in great abun- 
dance. 

Thursday^ 25. I arose before the sun, and the 
^veather was very fine. The men who were to ac- 
company us went to visit their machines, and 
brought back plenty of fish, which they strung on 
a rope, and left them in the river. We now 
embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my 
men on the South bank, as it would have been im- 
practicable to have stemmed the tide with such a 
load. The under- wood w^as so thick that it was 
with great difficulty they could pass through it. 
At nine we were under the necessity of waiting to 
ferry them over a river from the South, Vv^hich is 
not fordable. After some time we came to two 
deserted houses, at the foot of a rapid, beyond 
which our boatmen absolutely refused to conduct 



346 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

us by water. Here was a road which led opposite 
to the village. We had, however, the curiosity to 
visit the houses, which were erected upon posts , 
and we suffered very severely for the indulgence of 
it ; for the floors were covered with fleas, and we 
were immediately in the same condition, for which 
we had no remedy but to take to the water. There 
w^as not a spot round the houses free from grass, 
that was not alive, as it were, with this vermin. 

Our guides proposed to conduct us on our way, 
and we followed them on a well-beaten track. 
They, however, went so fast, that we could not all 
of us keep up with them, particularly our sick In- 
dian, whose situation was very embarrassing to us, 
and at length they contrived to escape. I very much 
wished for these men to have accompanied us to 
the village, in order to do away any ill impressions 
w^hich might have arisen from the young chief's re- 
port to his father, which we were naturally led to 
expect would not be in our favour. 

This road conducted us through the finest wood 
of cedar trees that I had ever seen. I measured 
several of them that were twenty-four feet in the 
girth, and of a proportionate height. The alder 
trees are also of an uncommon size ; several of 
them were seven feet and an half in circumference, 
and rose to forty feet without a branch ; but my 
men declaimed that they had, in their progress, 
seen much larger of both kinds. The other wood 
was hemlock, white birch, two species of spruce- 
firs, willows, &c. Many of the large cedars ap- 
peared to have been examined, as I suppose by 
the natives, for the purpose of making canoes, but 
finding them hollow at heart, they were suffered 
to stand. There was but little underwood, and 
the soil was a black rich mould, which would 
well reward the trouble of cultivation. From the 
remains of bones on certain spots, it is probable 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 347 

that the natives may have occasionally burned 
their dead in this wood. 

As it v/as uncertain what our reception might 
be at the village, I examined every man's arms 
and ammunition, and gave Mr. Mackay, who 
had unfortunately lost his gun, one of my pistols. 
Our late conductors had informed us that the man 
whom we left in a dying state, and to whom 
I had administered some Turlington's balsam, 
was dead ; and it was by no means improbable 
that I might be suspected of hastening his end. 

At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of 
the river, which was opposite to the village, which 
appeared to be in a state of perfect tranquility. 
Several of the natives were fishing above and be- 
low the weir, and they very readily took us over 
in their canoes. The people now hurried down 
to the Vv'ater side, but I perceived none of the 
chief's family among them. They made signs to 
me to go to his house ; I signified to them not to 
crowd about us, and indeed drew a line, beyond 
which I made them understand they must not pass. 
I now directed Mr. Mackay, and the men to re- 
main there, with their arms in readiness, and to 
keep the natives at a distance, as I was determin- 
ed to go alone to the chief 's house ; and if they 
should hear the report of my pistols, they were 
ordered to make the best of their way from these 
people, as it would then be equally fruitless and 
dangerous to attempt the giving me any assistance, 
as it would be only in the last extremity, and when 
I was certain of their intention to destroy me, that 
I should discharge my pistols. My gun I p-ave to 
Mr. Mackay, when, with my loaded pistols in my 
belt, and a poinard in my hand, I proceeded to the 
abode of the chief. I had a wood to pass in my 
way thither, which was intersected by various paths 
and I took one that led to the back, instead of the 

3 Q. 



548 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

front of the house ; and as the whole had been very 
much altered since I was here before, I concluded 
that I had lost my way. But I continued to pro- 
ceed, and soon met with the chief's wife, who in- 
formed me, that he was at the next house. On 
my going round it, I perceived that they had 
thrown open the gable ends, and added tw^o wings, 
nearly as long as the body, both of which were 
huns: round with salmon as close as thev could be 
placed. As I could discover none of the men, I 
sat down upon a large stone near some women 
who were supping on salmon roes and berries. 
They invited me to partake of their fare, and I was 
about to accept their invitation when Mr. Mackay 
joined me, as both himself and all my party were 
alarmed at my being alone. Nor was his alarm 
lessened by an old man whom he met in the wood, 
and Vv ho made use of signs to persuade him to re- 
turn. As he came Avithout his gun, I gave him 
one of my pistols. When I saw the women con- 
tinue their employment without paying the least 
attention to us, I could not imagine that any hos- 
tile design was preparing against us. Though the 
non-appearance of the men awakened some degree 
of suspicion that I should not be received with the 
same welcome as on my former visit. At length 
the chief appeared, and his son, who had been our 
guide, following him ; displeasure was painted in 
the old man's countenance, and he held in his 
hand a bead tobacco pouch which belonged to Mr. 
Mackay, and the young chief had purloined from 
him. When he had approached within three or 
four yards of me, he threvv' it at me with great in- 
dignation, and walked away. I followed him, 
however, until he had passed his son, whom I 
took by the hand, but he did not make any very 
cordial return to my salutation ; at the same time 
he made signs for me to discharge my pistol, and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 54S 

give him my hanger which Mr. Mackay had 
brought me, but I did not pay the least attention 
to either of his demands. 

We now joined the chief, who explained to me 
that he was in a state of deep distress for the loss 
of his son, and made me understand that he had 
cut ofFhishair and blackened his face on the me- 
lancholy occasion. He also represented the alarm 
which he had suffered respecting his son who had 
accompanied us ; as he apprehended we had killed 
him, or had all of us perished together. When 
he had finished his narrative, I took him and his 
son by their hands, and requested them to come 
with me to the place where I had left my people, 
who were rejoiced to see us return, having been 
in a state of great anxiety from our long absence. 
I immediately remunerated the young chief for his 
company and assistance in our voyage to the sea, 
as well as his father, for his former attentions. I 
gave them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a por- 
tion of every tiling which nov/ remained to us. 
The presents had the desired effect of restoring 
us to their favour ; but these people are of so 
changeable a nature, that there is no security with 
them. I procured three robes and two otter- skins, 
and if I could have given such articles in exchange 
as they preferred, I should probably have obtained 
more. I now represented the length of the way 
which I had to go, and requested some fish to sup- 
port us on our journey, when he desired us to 
follow him to the house, where mats were imme- 
diately arranged and a fish placed before each of 
us. 

We were now informed, that our dog, whom 
w^e had lost, had been howling about the village 
ever since we left it, and that they had reason to 
believe he left the woods at night to eat the fish he 
could find about the houses. I immediately dis- 



350 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

patched Mr. Mackay, and a man, in search of the 
animal, but thev returned without him. 

When I manifested my intention to proceed on 
my journey, the chief vokmtarily sent for ten 
roasted salmon, and having attended us with his 
son, and a great number of his people, to the last 
house in the village, we took our leave. It was 
then half past three in the afternoon. 

I directed Mr. Mackay to take the lead, and the 
others to follow him in Indian files, at a long and 
steady pace, as I determined to bring up the rear. 
I adopted this measure from a confusion that was 
observable among the natives which I did not 
comprehend. I was not without my suspicions 
that some mischief was in agitation, and they were 
increased from the confused noise we heard in the 
village. At the same time a considerable number 
came running after us ; some of them making 
signs for us to stop, and others rushing by me. 
I perceived also, that those who followed us were 
the strangers who live among these people, and 
are kept by them in a state of awe and subjection ; 
and one of them made signs to me that we were 
taking a wrong road. I immediately called out to 
Mr. Mackay to stop. This was naturally enough 
taken for an alarm, and threvv^ my people into great 
disorder. When, however, I was understood, 
and we had mustered again, our Indian informed 
us, that the noise we heard was occasioned by a 
debate among the natives, whether they should 
stop us or not. When, therefore, we had got 
into the right road, I made such arrangements as 
might be necessary for our defence, if wt should 
have an experimental proof that our late and fickle 
friends were converted into enemies. 

Our way was through a forest of stately cedars, 
beneath a range of lofty hills, covered with rocks, 
and without any view of the river. The path was 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 351 

well beaten, but rendered incommodious by the 
large stones which lay along it. 

As we were continuing our route, we all felt the 
sensation of having found a lost friend at the sight 
of our dog ; but he appeared, in a great degree, 
to have lost his former sagacity. He ran in a wdld 
way backwards and forwards ; and though he 
kept our road, I could not induce him to acknow^- 
ledge his master. Sometimes he seemed dis- 
posed to approach as if he knew us ; and then, on 
a sudden, he would turn away, as if alarmed at 
our appearance. The poor animal was reduced 
almost to a skeleton, and we occasionally dropped 
something to support him, and by degrees he re- 
covered his former sagacity. 

When the night came on w^e stopped at a small 
distence from the river, but did not venture to 
make a fire. Every man took his tree, and laid 
down in his clothes, and with his arms, beneath 
the shade of its branches. We had removed to 
a short distance from the path ; no centinel was 
now^ appointed, and every one was left to watch for 
his own safety. 

Friday y 26. After a very restless, though un- 
disturbed night, we set forward as soon as day ap- 
peared, and walked on with all possible expedi- 
tion, till we got to the upper, which we now cal- 
led Friendly Village, and was the first we visited 
on our outward journey. 

It w^as eight in the morning of a very fine day 
when we arrived, and found a very material alter- 
ation - in the place since we left it. Five addi- 
tional houses had been erected and were filled with 
salmon : the increase of inhabitants Avas in the 
same proportion. We were received with great 
kindness, and a messenger w^as dispatched to in- 
form the chief, whose name was Soocomlick, and 
who was then at his fishing-weir, of our arrival. 



352 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

He immediately returned to the village to confirm 
the cordial reception cf his people ; and having 
conducted us to his house, entertained us with the 
most respectful hospitality. In short, he behaved 
to us with so much attention and kindness, that I 
did not withhold an}^ thing in my power to give, 
which might afford him satisfaction. I presented 
him with two yards of blue cloth, an axe, knives, 
and various other articles. He gave me in return 
a large shell wdiich resembled the under shell of 
a Guernsey oyster, but somewhat larger. Where ' 
they procure them I could not discover, but they 
cut and polish them for bracelets, ear-rings, and 
other personal ornaments. He regretted that he 
had no sea-otter skins to give me, but engaged to 
provide abundance of them whenever either my 
friends or myself should return by sea ; an ex- 
pectation which I thought it right to encourage 
among these people. He also earnestly requested 
me to bring him a gun and ammunition. I might 
have procured many curious articles at this place, 
but was prevented by the consideration that we 
must have carried them on our backs upwards of 
three hundred miles through a mountainous coun- 
try. The young chief, to his other acts of kind- 
ness, added as large a supply of fish as we choose 
to take. 

Our visit did not occasion any particular inter- 
ruption of the ordinary occupation of the people ; 
especially of the women, who were employed in 
boiling sorrel, and different kinds of berries, with 
salmon-roes, in large square kettles of cedar w^ood. 
This pottage, when it attained a certain consist- 
ency, they took out with ladles, and poured it in- 
to frames of about twelve inches square and one 
deep, the bottom being covered with a large leaf, 
which vcere then exposed to the sun till their con- 
tents became so many dried cakes. The roes that 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 353 

are mixed up with the bitter berries, are prepared 
in the same wa}^. From the quantity of this kind 
of provision, it must be a principal article of food, 
and probably of traffic. These people have also 
portable chests of cedar, in which they pack them, 
as well as their salmon, both dried and roasted. It 
appeared to me that they eat no flesh, except such 
as the sea may afford them, as that of the sea-otter 
and the seal. The only instance \vq observed to 
the contrary, was in a young Indian Avho accom- 
panied us among the islands, and has been already 
mentioned as feasting on the flesh of a porcupine ; 
whether this be their custom throughout the year, 
or only during the season of the salmon fishery ; 
or, whether there were any casts of them, as in 
India, I cannot pretend to determine. It is certain, 
however, that they are not hunters, and I have al- 
ready mentioned the abhorrence they expressed at 
some venison which we brought to their village. 
During our former visit to these people, they re- 
quested us not to discharge our fire-arms, lest the 
report should frighten away the salm.on, but now 
they expressed a wish that I should explain the 
use and management of them. Though their de- 
meanour to us was of the most friendly nature, and 
they appeared without any arms, except a few who 
accidentally had their daggers, I did not think it 
altogether prudent to discharge our pieces; I there- 
fore fired one of my pistols at a tree marked for 
the purpose, when I put four out of five buck shot 
with which it was loaded, into the circle, to their 
extreme astonishment and admiration. 

These people were in general of the middle sta- 
ture, well set, and better clothed with flesh than 
any of the natives of the interior country. Their 
faces are round, with high cheekbones, and their 
complexion between the olive and the copper. 
They have small grey eyes, with a tinge of red; 



354 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

they have wedge heads, and theh^ hair is of a dark 
brown colour, inclining to black. Some wear it 
long, keep it well combed, and let it hang loose 
over their shoulders, while they divide and tie it 
in knots over the temples. Others arrange its 
plaits, and bedaub it with brown earth, so as to 
render it impervious to the comb ; they, there- 
fore, carry a bodkin about them to ease the fre- 
quent irritation, which may be supposed to pro- 
ceed from such a state of the head. The women 
are inclined to be fat, wear their hair short, and 
appear to be very subject to swelled legs, a mala- 
dy that, probably, proceeds from the posture in 
which they are always sitting : as they are chiefly 
employed in the domestic engagements of spinning, 
W'Caving, preparing the fish, and nursing their 
children, which did not appear to be numerous. 
Their cradle differed from any that I had seen ; 
it consisted of a frame fixed round a board of suf- 
ficient length, in which the child, after it has been 
swathed, is placed on a bed of moss, and a con- 
ductor contrived to carry off the urinary discharge. 
They are slung over one shoulder by means of a 
cord fastened under the other, so that the infant is 
always in a position to be readily applied to the 
breast, when it requires nourishment. I saw se- 
veral whose heads v/ere inclosed in boards covered 
with leather, till they attain the form of a wedge. 
The women wear no clothing but the robe, either 
loose or tied round the middle with a girdle, as 
the occasion may require, with the addition of a 
fringed apron, already mentioned, and a cape, in 
the form of an inverted bowl or dish. To the robe 
and cap, the men add, when it rains, a circular 
mat with an opening in the middle sufficient to admit 
the head, which extending over the shoulders, 
throws off the wet. They also occasionally wear 
shoes of dressed moose-skin, for which they are 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 35^5 

indebted to their neighbours. Those parts, which 
among all civilized nations arc covered from fami- 
liar view, are here openly exposed. 

They are altogether dependant on the sea and 
rivers for their sustenance, so that they may be 
considered as a stationary people ; hence it is that 
the men engage in those toilsome employments, 
which the tribes who support themselves by the 
chase, leave entirely to the women. Polygamy is 
permitted among them, though, according to my 
observation, most of the men were satisfied ^vith 
one wife, with whom, however, chastity is not 
considered as a necessary virtue. I saw but one 
woman whose under lip was split and disfigured 
with an appendant ornament. The men frequently 
bathe, and the boys are continually in the water. 
They have nets and lines of various kinds and 
sizes, which are made of cedar bark, and would 
not be known from those made of hemp. Their 
hooks consist of two pieces of wood or bone, form- 
ing when fixed together, an obtuse angle. 

Their spears or darts are from four to sixteen 
feet in length ; the barb or point being fixed in a 
socket, which, when the animal is struck, slips 
from it : thus the barb being fastened by a string 
to the handle, remains as a buoy ; or enables the 
aquatic hunter to tire and take his prey. They 
are emploved against sea-otters, seals, and large 
fish. 

Their hatchets are made principally of about 
fourteen inches of bar-iron, fixed into a wooden 
handle, as I have already described them ; though 
they have some or bone or horn : with these, a 
mallet and wooden wedge, they hew their timbers 
and form their planks. They must also have other 
tools with which they complete and polish their 
work, but my stay was so short, my anxiety so 
great, and my situation so critical, that many 

3 R 



356 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

circumstances may be supposed to have escaped 
me. 

Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, 
and will carry from eight to fifty persons. 

Their warlike weapons, which, as far I could 
judge, they very seldom have occasion to employ, 
are bows and arrows, spears, and daggers. The 
arrows are such as have been already described, 
but rather of a slighter make. The bows are not 
more than two feet and an half in length ; they arc 
formed of a slip of red cedar ; the grain being on 
one side untouched with any tool, while the other 
is secured with sinews attached to it by a kind of 
glue. Though this weapon has a very slender 
appearance, it throws an arrow with great force, 
and to a considerable distance. Their spears are 
about ten feet long, and pointed with iron. Their 
daggers are of various kinds, being of British, 
Spanish, and American Manufacture. 

Their household furniture consists of boxes, 
troughs, and dishes formed of wood, with differ- 
ent vessels made of watape. These are employed, 
according to their several applications, to contain 
their valuables and provisions, as well as for culi- 
nary purposes, and to carry water. The women 
make use of muscle- shells to split and clean their 
fish, and which are very well adapted to that 
purpese. 

Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, brace- 
lets for the arms, wrists, and legs, with ear-rings, 

They burn their dead, and display their mourn- 
ing, by cutting their hair short, and blackening 
their faces. Though I saw several places where 
bodies had been burned, I was surprised at not 
seeing any tomb or memorial of the dead, parti- 
cularly when their neighbours are so superstiti- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 357 

ously attentive to the erection and preservation of 
them. 

From the number of their canoes, as well as the 
quantity of their chests and boxes, to contain their 
moveables, as well as the insufficiency of their 
houses, to guard against the rigours of a severe 
winter, and the appearance of the ground around 
their habitations, it is evident that these people re- 
side here only during the summer or salmon sea- 
son, v/hich does not probably last more than three 
months. It may be reasonably inferred, therefore, 
that they have villages on the sea-coast, which they 
inhabit during the rest of the year. There it may 
be supposed they leave the sick, the infirm, and the 
aged ; and thither they may bear the ashes of those 
who die at the place of their summer residence. 

Of their religion I can say but little, as my means 
of observation were very contracted. I could dis- 
cover, however, that they believed in a good and 
evil spirit : and that they have some forms of wor- 
ship to conciliate the protection of one, and perhaps 
to avert the enmity of the other, is apparent from 
the temples which I have described; and where, at 
stated periods, it may be presumed they hold the 
feasts, and perform the sacrifices, which their reli- 
gion, whatever it may be, has instituted as the ce- 
remonials of their public worship. 

From the very little I could discover of their go- 
vernment, it is altogether different from any politi- 
cal regulation which had been remarked by mc 
among the savage tribes. It is on this river alone 
that one man appears to have an exclusive and here- 
ditary right to what was necessary to the existence 
of those who are associated with him. I allude to 
the salmon weir, or fishing place, the sole right to 
which confers on the chief an arbitrary power. 
Those embankments could not have been formed 
without a very great and associated labour; and, as 



358 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

might be supposed, on the condition that those who 
assisted in constructing it should enjoy a participa- 
ting right in the advantages to be derived from it. 
Nevertheless, it evidently appeared to me, that the 
chiefs power over it, and the people, was unlimited, 
and without controul. No one could fish without 
his permission, or carry home a larger portion of 
what he had caught, than was set apart for him. 
No one could build a house without his consent; 
and all his commands appeared to be followed with 
implicit obedience. The people at large seemed to 
be on a perfect equality, while the strangers among 
them were obliged to obey the commands of the 
natives in general or quit the village. They appear 
to be of a friendly disposition, but they are subject 
to sudden gusts of passion, which are as quickly 
composed; and the transition is instantaneous, from 
violent irritation to the most tranquil demeanor. 
Of the many tribes of savage people whom I have 
seen, these appear to be the most susceptible of 
civilization. They might soon be brought to cul- 
tivate the little ground about them which is capable 
of it. There is a narrow border of a rich black 
soil, on either side of the river, over a bed of gravel, 
which would yield any grain or fruit, that are com- 
mon to similar latitudes in Europe, 

The very few words which I collected of their 
language, are as follow : — 



Zimilk, 


Salmon. 


Diliy, 


A fish of the size of a salmon, with canine 




teeth. 


Sepnas 


Hair of the head. 


Kietis, 


An axe. 


Clougus, 


Eyes. 


Itzas, 


Teeth. 


Ma-acza, 


Nose. 


Ich-yeh, 


Leg. 


Sbous-shey, 


Hand. 


Wattr,, 


Dog. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 359 



Zla-achle, House. 

Zimnez, Bark mat robe. 

Couloun, Beaver or otter ditto. 

Dichts, Stone. 

Neach, Fire. 

Uikan, Water. 

Gits com, A mat. 

Shiggimia, Thread. 

Till-kewan, Chest or box. 

Thlogatt, Cedar bark. 

Achimoul, Beads got upon their coast. 

Il-caiette, A bonnet. 

Couny, A clam shell: 

Nochasky, A dish composed of hemes and salmon 

roes. 

Caiffre, What? 



360 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Lea'oe the Friendly Village. Attentio?is of the 
natives at our departure. Stop to divide our 
provisions. Begin to ascend the mountains. 
Circumstances of the ascent. Journey con- 
linued. Arrive at the piece from whence we 
set out by land. Meet with Indians there. 
Find the canoe ^ and all the other articles in a 
state of perfect security and preservation. 
Means employed to compel the restoration of 
articles which voere afterwards stolen. Pro- 
ceed on our homeward-bound voyage. Some 
account of the natives on the river. The 
canoe is run on a rock^ ^c. Circumstances of 
the voyage. Enter the Peace River, State- 
ment of courses. Continue our route. Cir- 
cumstances of it. Proceed onwards in a small 
canoe., with an Indian., to the lower fort., leav- 
ing the rest of the people to follow me. Arrive 
at Fort Chepewyan. The voyage concluded. 

July, 1793. 

AT eleven in the morning we left this place, 
which I called Friendly Village, accompanied by 
every man belonging to it, who attended us about 
a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them ; 
and if we might judge from appearances, they 
parted from us with regret. 

In a short time we halted, to make a division of 
our fish, and each man had about twenty pounds 
weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myself, 
who were content with shorter allowance, that wc 
might have less weight to carry. We had also a 
little flour, and some pemmican. Having com- 
pleted this arrangement with all possible expedi- 
tion, we proceeded onwards, the ground rising^ 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 361 

gradually, as we continued our route. When we 
were clear of the wood, we saw the mountain 
towering above, and apparently of impracticable 
ascent. We soon came to the fork of the river, 
which was at the foot of the precipice, where the 
ford was three feet deep, and very rapid. Our 
young Indian, though much recovered, was still 
too weak to cross the water, and with some diffi- 
culty I carried him over on my back. 

It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to 
ascend the summit of the first mountain before 
night came on, in order to look for water. I left 
the sick Indian, with his companion and one of my 
men, to follow us, as his strength would permit 
him. The fatigue of ascending these precipices 
I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past 
five when v/e arrived at a spot where we could 
get water, and in such an extremity of weariness, 
that it was with great pain any of us could crawl 
about to gather wood for the necessary purpose of 
making a fire. To relieve our anxiety, which 
began to increase every moment for the situation 
of the Indian, about seven he and his companions 
arrived ; when we consoled ourselves by sitting 
round a blazing fire, talking of past dangers, and 
indulging the delightful reflection that we were 
thus far advanced on our homeward journey. Nor 
was it possible to be in this situation without con- 
templating the w^onders of it. Such was the 
depth of the precipices below, and the height of 
the mountains above, with the rude and wild mag- 
nificence of the scenery around, that I shall not 
attempt to describe such an astonishing and aw- 
ful combination of objects ; of which, indeed, no 
description can convey an adequate idea. Even 
at this place, which is only, as it were, the first 
step towards gaining the summit of the mountains, 
the climate was verv sensiblv chancred. The air 



362 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

that fanned the village which we left at noon, was 
mild and cheering ; the grass was verdant, and the 
wild fruits ripe around it. But here the snow was 
not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by 
the frost, the herbage had scarce begun to spring, 
and the crowberry bushes were just beginning to 
blossom. 

Saturday^ 27. So great was our fatigue of 
yesterday, that it was late before we proceeded to 
return over the mountains, by the same route 
which we had followed in our outward journe}^ 
There was litttle or no change in the appearance 
of the mountains since we passed them, though 
the weather was very fine. 

Sunday^ 28. At nine this morning we arrived 
at the spot, where we slept with the natives on 
the 16th instant, and found our pemmican in good 
condition where we had buried it. 

The latitude of this place, by observation, when 
I passed, I found to be 52. 46. 32. I now took 
time, and the distance between sun and moon. I 
had also an azimuth, to ascertain the variation. 

We continued our route with fine weather, and 
without meeting a single person on our way, the 
natives being all gone, as we supposed, to the 
Great River. We recovered all our hidden stores 
of provisions, and arrived about two in the after- 
noon of Sunday, August the 4th, at the place which 
we had left a month before. 

A considerable number of Indians were encamp- 
ed on the opposite side of the small river, and in 
consequence of the weadier, confined to their 
lodges : as they must have heard of, if not seen 
us, and our arms being out of order from the rain, 
I was not satisfied with our situation ; but did not 
wish to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in 
the cdgo^ of the wood, and called to them, when 
they turned out like so many furies, with their 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 363 

arms in their hands, and threatening destructioii 
if we dared to approach their habitations. We 
remained in our station till their passion and ap- 
prehensions had subsided, when our interpreter 
gave them the necessary information respecting 
us. They proved to be strangers to us, but were 
the relations of those v/hom we had already seen 
here, and who, as they told us, were upon an 
island at some distance up the river. A messen- 
ger was accordingly sent to inform them of our 
arrival. 

Monday^ 5. On examining the canoe, and 
our property, which we had left behind, we found 
it in perfect safety , nor was there the print of a 
foot near the spot. We now pitched our tent, and 
made a blazing fire, and I treated myself, as well 
as the people, with a dram ; but we had been so 
long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that 
we had lost all relish for it. The Indians now ar- 
rived from above, and were rewarded for the care 
they had taken of our property with such articles 
as were acceptable to them. 

At nine this morning I sent five men in the 
canoe, for the various articles we had left below, 
and they soon returned with them, and except 
some bale goods, which had got wet, they were 
in good order, particularly the provisions, of 
which we were now in great need. 

Many of the natives arrived both from the up- 
per and lower parts of the river, each of whom 
was dressed in a beaver robe. I purchased fif- 
teen of them ; and they preferred large knives in 
exchange. It is an extraordinary circumstance, 
that these people, who might have taken all the 
property we left behind us, without the least fear 
of detection, should leave that untouched, and 
purloin any of our utensils, which our confidence 
in their honesty gave them a ready opportunity of 
33 



36'4 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

taking. In fact, several articles were missiHg; 
and as I was very anxious to avoid a quarrel with 
the natives, in this stage of our journey, I told 
those who remained near us, without any appear- 
ance of anger, that their relations who were gone, 
had no idea of the mischief that would result to 
them from taking our property. I gravely added, 
that the salmon, which was not only their favour- 
ite food, but absolutely necessary to their exist- 
ence, came from the sea which belonged to us 
white men ; and that as, at the entrance of the 
river, v/e could prevent those fish from coming up 
it, we possessed the power to starve them and 
their children. To avert our anger, therefore, 
they must return all the articles that had been 
stolen from us. This finesse succeeded. Mes- 
sengers were dispatched to order the restoration 
of every thing that had been taken. We pur- 
chased several large salmon of them and enjoyed 
the delicious meal which they afforded. 

At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, 
I got a meridian altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. 
I also took time. The weather had been cloudy 
at intervals. 

Every necessary preparation had been made 
yesterday for us to continue our route to day ; but 
before our departure, some of the natives arrived 
with part of the stolen articles ; the rest, they said, 
had been taken by people down the river, who 
would be here in the course of the morning, and 
recommended their children to our commiseration, 
and themselves to our forgiveness. 

The morning was cloudy, with small rain, ne- 
vertheless I ordered the men to load the canoe, 
and we proceeded in high spirits on finding our- 
selves once more so comfortably together in it. 
We landed at a house on the first island, where 
we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 365 

skins. There had been much more rain in these 
parts than in the country above, as the water was 
pouring down the hills in torrents. The river 
consequently rose with great rapidity, and very 
much impeded our progress. 

The people on this river are generally of the 
middle size, though I saw many tall men among 
them. In the cleanliness of their persons they re- 
semble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepe- 
wyans. They are ignorant of the use of fire arms, 
and their only weapons are bows and arrows, and 
spears. They catch the larger animals in snares, 
but though their country abounds in them, and 
the rivers and lakes produce plenty of fish, they 
find a difficulty in supporting themselves, and are 
never to be seen but in small bands of two or three 
families. There is no regular government among 
them ; nor do they appear to have a sufficient com- 
munication or understanding with each other, to 
defend themselves against an invading enemy, to 
whom they fall an easy prey. They have all the 
animals common on the West side of the moun- 
tains, except the buffalo and the wolf; at least 
we saw none of the latter, and there being none 
of the former, it is evident that their progress is 
from the South-East. The same language is 
spoken, with very little exception from the extent 
of my travels down this river, and in a direct line 
from the North- East head of it in the latitude 53. 
or 54. to Hudson's Bay; so that a Chepewyan, from 
which tribe they have all sprung, might leave 
Churchill River, and proceeding in every direc- 
tion to the North- West of this line without know- 
ing any language except his own, would under- 
stand them all : I except the natives of the sea 
coast, who are altogether a different people. As 
to the people to the Eastward of this river, I am 
liot qualified to speak of them. 



366 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so that 
we were obliged to land in order to repair the injury 
she had received; and as the rain came on with 
great violence, we remained here for the night. 
The salmon were now driving up the current in 
such large shoals, that the water seemed, as it were, 
to be covered with the fins of them. 

Wedriesday^ 7. About nine this morning the wea- 
ther cleared, and we embarked. The shoals of 
salmon continued as yesterday. There were fre- 
quent showers throughout the day, aud every brook 
was deluged into a river. The water had risen at 
least one foot and an half perpendicular in the last 
twenty -four hours. In the dusk of the evening we 
landed for the night. 

Thursday^ 8. The w^ater continued rising during 
the night; so that we were ('isturbed twice in the 
course of it, to remove our baggage. At six in the 
morning we wxre on our way, and proceeded with 
continual and laborious exertion, from the increased 
rapidity of the current. After having passed the 
two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long 
Portage, we encamped for the night. 

Friday^ 9. We set oif at five, after a rainy night, 
and in a foggy morning. The water still retained 
its height. The sun, however, soon beamed upon 
us; and our clothes and baggage were in such a 
state that we landed to dry them. After some time 
we re- embarked, and arrived, at ourfirst encamp^ 
ment on this river about seven in the evening. The 
water fell considerably in the course of the day. 

Saturday^ 10. The weather was cloudy with 
slight showers, and at five this morning we em- 
barked, the water falling as fast as it had risen. 
This circumstance arises from the mountainous 
state of the country on either side of the river, 
from whence the water rushes down almost as fast 
as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of 



North-west continent of America, ser 

the snow it melts in its way. At eight in the even- 
ing we stopped for the night. 

Sunday, 11. At five this morning we proceeded 
with clear weather. At ten we came to the foot 
of the long rapid, which we ascended with poles 
much easier than we expected. The rapids that 
were so strong and violent, in our passage down- 
wards, were now so reduced, that we could hardly 
believe them to be the same. At sun- set we landed 
and encamped. 

Monday^ 12. The weather Vv'as the same as yes- 
terday, and we were on the water at a very early 
hour. At nine we came to a part of the river 
where there was little or no current. At noon we 
landed to gum the canoe, when I took a meredian 
altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North latitude. 
We continued our route nearly East, and at three 
in the afternoon approached the fork, when I took 
time, and the distance between the sun and moon. 
At four in the afternoon we left the main branch. 
The current was quite slack, as the water had fallen 
six feet, which must have been in the course of 
three days. At sun-set we landed and took our 
station for the night. 

Tuesday, 13. There was a very heavy rain in 
the night, and the morning was cloudy; we renew- 
ed our voyage, however, at a very early hour, and 
came to the narrow gut between the mountains of 
rock, which was a passage of some risk; but fortu- 
nately the state of the water was such, that we got 
up without any difficult)^ and had more time to ex- 
amine these extraordinary rocks than in our out- 
ward passage. They are as perpendicular as a 
wall, and give the idea of a succession of enormous 
Gothic churches. We were now closely hemmed 
in by the mountains, which had lost much of their 
snow since our former passage by them. We en- 
camped at a late hour, cold, wet, and hungry: 



368 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

for such was the state of our provisions, that our 
necessary allowance did not answer to the active 
cravings of our appetites. 

Wednesday^ 14. The weather was cold and raw, 
with small rain, but our necessities would not suf- 
fer us to wait for a favourable change of it, and at 
half past five we arrived at the swampy carrying- 
place, between this branch and the small river. 
At three in the afternoon the cold was extreme, 
and the men could not keep themselves warm even 
by their violent exertions which our situation re- 
quired; and I now gave them the remainder of 
our rum to fortify and support them. The canoe 
was so heavy that the lives of two of them were 
endangered in this horrible carrying-place. At the 
same time it must be observed, that from the fati- 
guing circumstances of our journey, and the ina-* 
dequate state of our provisions, the natural strength 
of the men had been greatly diminished. We en- 
camped on the banks of the bad river. 

Thursday^ 15. The weather was now clear, and 
the sun shone upon us. The water was much 
lower than in the downward passage, but as cold 
as ice, and, unfortunately, the men were obliged 
to be continually in it to drag on the canoe. There 
were many embarras, through which a passage 
might have been made, but we were under the ne- 
cessity of carrying both the canoe and baggage. 

About sun-set we arrived at our encampment of 
the 13th of June, where some of us had nearly taken 
our eternal voyage. The legs and feet of the men 
were so benumbed, that I was very apprehensive 
of the consequences. The water being low, wc 
made a search for our bag of ball, but without suc- 
cess. The river was full of salmon, and another 
iish like the black bass. 

Friday^ 16. The weather continued to be the 
same as yesterday, and at two in the afternoon we 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 36<^ 

came to the carrying-place which leads to the first 
small lake; but it was so filled with drift wood, 
that a considerable portion of time was employed 
in making our way through it. We now reached 
the high land which separates the source of the 
TacoutcheTesse,or Columbia River, and Unjigah, 
or Peace River : the latter of which, after receiv- 
ing many tributary streams, passes through the 
great Slave Lake, and disembogues itself in the 
Frozen Ocean, in latitude 69. 30. North, longitude 
135 West from Greenwich ; while the former, con- 
fined by the immense mountains that run nearly 
parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and keep it in a 
Southern course, empties itself in 46. 20. North 
latitude and longitude 124\¥est from Greenwich. 

If I could have spared the time, and had been 
able to exert myself, for I was nov/ afflicted with a 
swelling in my ancles, so that I could not even 
walk, but with great pain and difficulty, it was 
my intention to have taken some salmon alive, and 
colonised them in the Peace River, though it is 
very doubtful whether that fish would live in 
waters that have not a communication with the 
sea. 

Some of the inhabitants had been here since we 
passed ; and I apprehend, that on seeing our road 
through their country, they mistook us for ene- 
mies, and had therefore deserted the place, which 
is a most convenient station ; as on one side, there 
is a great plenty of white fish, and trout, jub, carp, 
&c. arid on the other, abundance of sahuon, and 
probably other fish. Several things that I had 
left here in exchange for articles of which I had 
possessed myself, as objects of curiosity, were 
taken away. The hurtle-berries were now ripe, 
and very fine of their kind. 

Saturday^ 17. The morning was clo.idy, and 
at five we renewed our progress. We were com- 



370 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

pelledto cany from the lake to the Peace River, 
the passage, from the falling of the water, being 
wholly obstructed by drift wood. The meadow 
through which we passed was entirely inundated ; 
and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was 
obliged, though with great reluctance, to submit 
to be carried over it. 

At half past seven we began to glide along with 
the current of the Peace River ; and almost at 
every canoe's length we perceived Beaver roads to 
and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an 
object attracted our notice at the entrance of a 
small river, which proved to be the four beaver 
skins, already mentioned to have been presented 
to me by a native, and left in his possession to re- 
ceive them on my return. I imagined, therefore^ 
that being under the necessity of leaving the river, 
or, perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had 
taken this method to restore them to me ; and to 
reward his honesty, I left three times the value of 
the skins in their place. The snow appeared in 
patches on the mountains. At four in the after- 
noon we passed the place where we found the first 
natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. 
In the course of the day, We caught nine outards, 
or Canada geese, but they were as yet without 
their feathers. 

Sunday^ 18. As soon as it was light we pro- 
ceeded on our voyage, and drove on before the 
current, which was very much diminished in its 
strength, since we came up it. The water in- 
deed, was so low, that in many parts it exposed a 
gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our en- 
campment of the seventh of June, to gum the 
canoe and dry our clothes : we then re-embarked, 
and at half past five arrived at the place, where I 
lost my book of memorandums, on the fourth of 
June, in which v> ere certain courses and distances 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 37 1 

between that day and the twenty-sixth of May^ 
which I had now an opportunity to supply. They 
were as follow. 

North-North-West half a mile, East by North 
half a mile, North by East a quarter of a mile. 
North- West by West a quarter of a mile, West- 
South- West half a mile, North-West a mile and 
a quarter, North -North- West three quarters of a 
mile. North by East half a mile. North- West 
three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North- 
West three quarters of a mile, West-North- 
West one mile and a quarter. North three quarters 
of a mile. West by North one quarter of a mile, 
North-West one mile and an half, West-North- 
West half a mile, North-North- West three quar- 
ters of a mile. West one quarter of a mile, North- 
North-East half a mile, North-North-West two 
miles, and North-West four miles. 

We were seven days in going up that part of the 
river which we came down to-day ; and it now 
swarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild fowl. 
There was rain in the afternoon, and about sun- 
set we took our station for the night. 

Monday^ 19. We had some small rain through- 
out the night. Our course to-day was South- 
South- West three quarters of a mile, West-North- 
West half a mile. North half a mile, North-West 
by West three quarters of a mile. North by West 
half a mile ; a small river to the left. South- West 
by West three quarters of a mile, West-North- 
West a mile and an half, North-West by North 
four miles, a rivulet on the right, West-North- 
West three quarters of a mile ; a considerable river 
from the left, North-North- West two miles, North 
half a mile, West-North- West one mile and a 
half; a rivulet on the right, North-West by West 
one mile and a quarter, West-North-West one 
mile, West- South- West a quarter of a mile, 

3 T 



sr2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

North-North- West half a mile, North- West half 
a mile, West- South- West three quarters of a mile, 
North- West by West three miles, West- South - 
West three quarters of a mile, North -West by- 
West one mile ; a small river on the right, South- 
West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West^ 
islands, four miles and a half, a river on the left, 
North half a mile. West a quarter of a mile, North 
a quarterofamile, North- West by West three quar- 
ters of a mile, North-North-Eastthree quarters of a 
mile. North- West by North half a mile, West- 
North- West a mile and an half, and North- West by 
North half a mile. The mountains were covered 
with fresh snow, whose showers had dissolved in 
rain before they reached us. North- West three 
quarters of a mile. South- West a quarter of a mile, 
North a mile and three quarters, West-North- West 
a mile and a quarter. North- West a mile and a half. 
North- North- West half a mile, West-North- 
West a quarter of a mile. North half a mile ; 
here the current was slack : North- West by North 
half a mile. North- West by West a quarter of a 
mile, North-North -West a quarter of a mile. 
North -West by West one mile and a quarter, 
North half a mile, North-East by North one mile 
and three quarters, South-West one mile and a 
quarter, with an island. North by East one mile, 
North- West. Here the other branch opened to 
us, at the distance of three quarters of a mile, 

I expected from the slackness of the current in 
this branch, that the Western one would be high, 
but I found it equally low. I had every reason to 
believe that from the upper part of this branch, the 
distance could not be great to the country through 
which I passed when I left the Great River ; but 
it has since been determined otherwise by Mr. J. 
Finlay, who was sent to explore it, and found its 
navigation soon terminated by falls and rapids. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 373 

The branches are about two himdred yards in 
breadth, and the water was six feet lower than on 
our upward passage. Our course, after the junc- 
tion, was North-North-West one mile, the rapid 
North- East down it three quarters of a mile, North 
by West one mile and a quarter. North by East 
one mile and an half. East by South one mile. 
North- East two miles and an half East-North- 
East a quarter of a mile ; a rivulet ; East by 
South one mile and an half, North-East two miles, 
East-North-East one mile, North-North- East a 
quarter of a mile, North-East by East half a mile, 
East-South-East a quarter of a mile, East-North- 
East half a mile, North-East two miles, North- 
East by East two miles and a quarter, South- 
East by East a quarter of a mile ; a rivulet from 
the left ; East by North a mile and an half. East 
by South one mile, East-North -East one mile and 
three quarters ; a river on the right ; North- 
North-East three quarters of a mile, North-East 
a mile and a half, North-East by East a mile and 
a quarter, East-North-East half a mile, and 
North-East by North half a mile. Here we 
landed at our encampment of the 27th of June, 
from whence I dispatched a letter in an empty keg, 
as was mentioned in that period of my journal, 
which set forth our existing state, progress, and 
expectation. 

Tuesday^ 20. Though the weather was clear, 
we could not embark this morning before five, as 
there was a rapid very near us, which required day- 
light to run it, that we might not break our canoe 
on the rocks. The baggage we v/ere obliged to 
carry. Our course was North by East a mile and 
an half, North-North -East a mile and a half down 
another rapid on the West side ; it requires great 
care to keep directly between the eddy current, 
and that which was driving down with so much 



374 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

impetuosity. We then proceeded North-North- 
West, a river from the right; a mile and a quar- 
ter, North-North-East a mile and a half, a river 
from the left; North one mile and three quarters. 
North- East two miles, North- East by East two 
miles and a quarter. East by North one mile. 
North -East by East four miles, a river from the 
left, and East by South a mile and a half. Here 
was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond 
which it would be altogether superfluous for me to 
take the courses, as they are inserted in their pro- 
per places. 

As we continued our voyage, our attention was 
attracted by the appearance of an Indian encamp- 
ment. We accordingly landed, and found there 
had been five fires, and within that number of days, 
so that there must have been some inhabitants in 
the neighbourhood, though we were not so fortun- 
ate as to see them. It appeared that they had kil- 
led a number of animals, and fled in a state of alarm, 
as three of their canoes were left carelessly on the 
beach, and their paddles laying about in disorder. 
We soon after came to the carrying-place called 
the Portage de la Montague de Roche. Here I had 
a meridian altitude, which made the latitude 56, 3, 
51. North. 

The w-ater, as I have already observed, was 
much lower than when we came up it, though at 
the same time, the current appeared to be stronger 
fiom this place to the forks; the navigation, how- 
ever, would now be attended with greater facility, 
as there is a stony beach all the way, so that poles, 
or the towing-line, may be employed with the best 
eflect, where the current overpowers the use of 
paddles. 

We were now reduced to a very short allow- 
ance; the disappointment, therefore, at not seeing 
any animals wits proportioned to our exigences, as 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 375 

we did not possess at this time more than was suf- 
ficient to serve us for two meals. I now dispatched 
Mr. Mackay and the Indians to proceed to the foot 
of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to pro- 
cure some provisions, while I prepared to employ 
the utmost expedition in getting there ; having 
determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of 
my people, from the recollection of what they had 
suffered in coming that way, to return by the same 
route. I had observed, indeed, that the water which 
had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow 
pass below us, had lost much of its former turbu- 
lence. 

As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply 
of provisions, we did not delay a moment in mak- 
ing preparation to renew our progress. Five of 
the men began to carry the baggage, while the 
sixth and myself took the canoe asunder, to cleanse 
her of the dirt, and expose her lining and timbers 
to the air, which would render her much lighter. 
About sun-set Mr. Mackay and our hunters re- 
turned with heavy burdens of the flesh of a buffalo: 
though not very tender, it w^as very acceptable, 
and was the only animal that they had seen, though 
the country was covered with tracks of them, as 
well as of the moose -deer and the elk. The for- 
mer had done rutting, and the latter were begin- 
ning to run. Our people returned, having left their 
loads mid- way on the carrying-place. My com- 
panion and myself completed our undertaking, and 
the canoe was ready to be carried in the morning. 
A hearty meal concluded the day, and every fear 
of future want was removed. 

Wednesday, 21. When the morning dawned we 
set forwards, but as a fire had passed"\hrough the 
portage, it was with difficuky we could trace our 
road in many parts; and with all the exertion of 
which we were capable, we did not arrive at the 



375 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

river till four in the afternoon. We found almost 
as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the 
mountain as we had in getting it up; the men be- 
ing not so strong as on the former occasion, though 
they were in better spirits ; and I was now ena- 
bled to assist them, my ancle being almost well. 
We could not, however, proceed any further till 
the following day, as we had the canoe to gum, 
with several great and small poles to prepare ; those 
we had left here having been carried away by the 
water, though we had left them in a position from 
fifteen to twenty feet above the water- mark, at that 
time. These occupations employed us till a very 
late hour. 

Thiirsday,'22. The night wastold, and though the 
morning was fine and clear, it was seven before we 
were in a state of preparation to leave this place; 
sometimes driving with the current, and at other 
times shooting the rapids. The latter had lost 
much of their former strength ; but we, neverthe- 
less, thought it necessary to land very frequently^ 
in order to examine the rapids before we could 
venture to run them. However, the canoe being 
light, we very fortunately passed them all, and at 
noon arrived at the place where I appointed to meet 
Mr. Mackay and the hunters : there we found them, 
with plenty of excellent fat meat, ready roasted, as 
they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards 
of the spot where we then were. When the men 
had satisfied their appetites, I sent them for as 
much of the meat as they could carry. In coming 
hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the 
hunters kept along the high land, and did not see 
or cross the Indian path. At the same time, there 
can be no doubt but the road from this place to 
the upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to 
that which we came, both for expedition and safety. 



After staying here about an hour and a half, we 
proceeded with the stream, and landed where I had 
forgotten my pipe -tomahawk and seal, on the 
eighteenth of May. The former of them I now 
recovered. 

On leaving the mountains we saw animals graz- 
ing in every direction. In passing along an island, 
we fired at an elk, and broke its leg ; and as it was 
now time to encamp, we landed ; when the hunters 
pursued the wounded animal, which had crossed 
over to the main land, but could not get up the 
bank. We went after it, therefore, in the canoe, 
and killed it. To give some notion of our appe- 
tites, I shall state the elk, or at least the carcase of 
it, which we brought away, to have weighed two 
hundred and fifty pounds ; and as we had takerfa 
very hearty meal at one o'clock, it might naturally 
be supposed that we should not be very voracious 
at supper ; nevertheless, a kettle full of the elk 
flesh was boiled and eaten, and that vessel reple- 
nished and put on the fire. All that remained, 
with the bones, &:c. was placed, after the Indian 
fashion, round the fire to roast, and at ten next 
morning the whole was consumed by ten persons 
and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the 
banquet. This is no exaggeration ; nor did any 
inconvenience result from what may be considered 
as an inordinate indulgence. 

Friday^ 23. We were on the water before day- 
light ; and when the sun rose, a beautiful country 
appeared around us, enriched and animated by 
large herds of wild cattle. The weather was now 
so warm, that to us, who had not of late been ac- 
customed to heat, it was overwhelming and op- 
pressive. In the course of this day we killed a 
buffalo and a bear ; but we were now in the midst 
of abundance, and they were not sufficiently fat to 
satisfy our fastidious appetites, so we left them 



378 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

where they fell. We landed for the night, and pre- 
pared ourselves for arriving at the Fort on the 
following day. 

Saturday^ 24. The weather was the same as 
yesterday, and the country increasing in beauty ; 
though as we approached the Fort, the cattle ap- 
peared proportionably to diminish. We now land- 
ed at two lodges of Indians, who were as astonished 
to see us, as if we had been the first white men 
whom they had ever beheld. When we had passed 
these people, not an animal was to be seen on the 
borders of the river. 

At length, as we rounded a point, and came in 
view of the Fort, we threw out a flag, and accom- 
panied it with a general discharge of our fire-arms; 
while the men were in such spirits, and made such 
an active use of their paddles, that we arrived be- 
fore the two men whom we left here in the spring, 
could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we 
landed at four in the afternoon, at the place which 

we left on the ninth of May. Here my voyages 

of discovery terminate. Their toils and their dan- 
gers, their solicitudes and sufferings, have not 
been exaggerated in my description. On the con- 
trary, in many instances, language has failed me 
in the attempt to describe them. I received, how- 
ever, the reward of my labours, for they were 
crowned with success. 

As I have now resumed the character of a trader 
1 shall not trouble my readers with any subsequent 
concern, but content myself with the closing in- 
formation, that after an absence of eleven months, 
I arrived at Fort Chepewyan, where I remained, 
for the purposes of trade, during the succeeding 
winter. 



North-west continent of America. 379 

THE following general, but short, geographical 
view ^of the country may not be improper to close 
this work, as well as some remarks on the proba- 
ble advantages that may be derived from advancing 
the trade of it, under proper regulations, and by 
the spirit of commercial enterprize. 

By supposing a line from the Atlantic, East, to 
the Pacific, West, in the parallel of forty-five de- 
grees of North latitude, it will, I think, nearly de- 
scribe the British territories in North America. 
For I am of opinion, that the extent of the country 
to the South of this line, which we have a right to 
claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which 
may be claimed by other powers. 

The outline of what I shall call the first division, 
is along that track of country which runs from the 
head of James-Bay, in about latitude 51. North, 
along the Eastern coast, as far North as to, and 
through Hudson's Straits, round by Labrador; 
continuing on the Atlantic coast, on the outside 
of the great islands, in the gulf of St. Laurence, to 
the river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to 
the height of land that divides the waters emptying 
themselves into the Atlantic, from those discharg- 
ed into the river St. Laurencfe. Then following 
these heights, as the boundary between the British 
possessions, and those of the American States, it 
makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the dis- 
charge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, 
when it keeps a direct West line till it strikes the 
river St. Laurence, above Lake St. Francis, where 
it divides the Indian village St. Rigest; fromw^hence 
it follows the centre of the waters of the great river 
St. Laurence : it then proceeds through Lake On- 
tario, the connection between it and Lake Erie ; 
through the latter, and its chain of connection, by 
the river Detroit, as far South as latitude 42. 
3North, and then through the lake and river St, 

3 u 



380 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Clair, as also lake Huron, through which it conti- 
nues to the strait of St. Mary, latitude 46. 30. 
North ; from which we will suppose the line to 
strike to the East of North, to the head of James- 
Lay, in the latitude already mentioned. 

Of this great tract, more than half is represented 
as barren and broken, displaying a surface of rock 
and fresh water lakes, with a very scattered and 
scanty proportion of soil. Such is the M^hole coast 
of Labrador, and the land, called East Main to the 
West of the heights, which divide the waters run- 
ning into the river and gulf of St. Laurence, from 
those flowing into Hudson's Bay. It is conse- 
quently inhabited only by a few savages, whose 
numbers are proportioned to the scantiness of the 
soil; nor is it probable, from the same cause, that 
they will enerease. The fresh and salt waters, 
with a small quantity of game, which the few, 
stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature ; 
from whence, to that of the line of the American 
boundary, and the Atlantic Ocean, the soil, where- 
ever cultivation has been attempted, has yielded 
abundance ; particularly on the river St. Laurence, 
from Quebec upwards, to the line of boundary al- 
ready mentioned ; but a very inconsiderable pro- 
portion of it has been broken by the plough-share. 
The line of the second division may be traced 
from that of the first at St. Mary's, from which 
also the line of American boundary runs, and is 
said to continue through Lake Superior (and 
through a lake called the Long Lake which has no 
existence), to the Lake of the Woods, in latitude 
49. 37. North, from whence it is also said to run 
West to the Mississippi, which it may do, by giv- 
ing it a good deal of Southing, but not otherwise; 
as the source of that river does not extend further 
North than latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no 
more than a small brook; consequently, if Great- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 331 

Britain retains the right of entering it along the line 
of division, it must be in a lower latitude, and 
wherever that may be, the line must be continued 
West, till it terminates in the Pacific Ocean, to 
the South of the Columbia. This division is then 
bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the 
Frozen Sea and Hudson's Bay on the North and 
East. The Russians, indeed, may claim with jus- 
tice, the islands and coast from Behring's Straits 
to Cook's Entry. 

The whole of this country will long continue 
in the possession of its present inhabitants, as they 
will remain contented widi the produce of the 
woods and waters for their support, leaving the 
earth, from various causes, in its virgin state. 
The proportion of it that is fit for cultivation, 
is very small and is still less in the interior parts; 
it is also very difficuh of access; and whilst 
any land remains uncultivated to the South of it, 
there will be no temptation to settle it. Besides, 
its climate is not in general sufficiently genial to 
bring the fruits of the earth to maturity. It will 
also be an asylum for the descendants of the origi- 
nal inhabitants of the country to the South, who 
prefer the modes of life of their forefathers, to the 
improvements of civilization. Of this disposition 
there^is a recent instance, A small colony oi Iro- 
quois emigrated to the banks of the Saskatchiwine, 
in 1799, who had been brought up from their m- 
fancy under the Romish missionaries, and mstruct- 
ed by them at a village within nine miles of Mon- 

A further division of this country is marked by 
a ridge of high land, rising, as it were, from the 
coast of Labrador, and running nearly South- 
West to the source of the Utawas River, dividing 
the waters going either way to the river and gult 
of St. Laurence and Hudson's Bay, as before ob- 
served. From thence it stretches to the North ot 



582 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

West, to the Northward of Lake Superior, to la- 
titude 50. North, and longitude 89. West, when 
it forks from the last course at about South-West, 
and continues the same division of waters until it 
passes North of the source of the Mississippi. The 
former course runs, as has been observed, in a 
North- W^est direction, until it strikes the river 
Nelson, separating the waters that discharge them- 
selves into Lake Winipic, which forms part of 
the said river, and those that also empty them- 
selves into Hudson's Bay, by the Albany, Severn, 
and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From thence it keeps 
a course of about West-North- West, till it forms 
the banks of the Missinipi or Churchill River, at 
Portage de Traite, latitude 55. 25. North. It 
now continues in a Western direction, between 
the Saskatchiwine and the source of the Missi- 
nipi, or Beaver River, which it leaves behind, 
and divides the Saskatchiwine from the Elk River; 
when, leaving those also behind, and pursuing 
the same direction it leads to the high land that 
lies between the Unjigah and Tacoutche rivers, 
from whence it may be supposed to be the same 
ridge. From the head of the Beaver River, on 
the West, the same kind of high ground runs to 
the East of North, betv»een the waters of the Elk 
and Missinipi River forming the Portage la Loche, 
and continuing on to the latitude 57. 15. North, 
dividing the waters that run to Hudson's Bay 
from those going to the North Sea : from thence , 
its course is nearly North, when an angle runs 
from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till it 
strikes Mackenzie's River. 

The last, but by no means the least, is the im- 
mense ridge, or succession of ridges of stony 
mountains, whose Northern extremity dips in the 
North Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 
135. West, running nearly South-East, and 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 383 

begins to be parallel with the coast of the Pacific 
Ocean, from Cook's entry, and so onwards to the 
Columbia. From thence it appears to quit the 
coast, but still continuing, with less elevation, to 
divide the waters of the Atlantic from those u hich 
run into the Pacific. In those snow- clad moun- 
tains rises the Mississippi, if we admit the Missi- 
souri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph 
of Mexico ; the River Nelson, which is lost in 
Hudson's Bay ; Mackenzie's River, that dis- 
charges itself into the North Sea ; and the Colum- 
bia emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The 
great River St. Laurence and Churchill River, 
with many lesser ones, derive their sources far 
short of these mountains. It is, indeed, the ex- 
tension of these mountains so far South on the sea- 
coast, that prevents the Columbia from finding a 
more direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely 
with the coast upwards of eight degrees of latitude 
before it mingles with the ocean. 

It is further to be observed, that these moun- 
tains, from Cook's entry to the Columbia, extend 
from six to eight degrees in breadth Easterly ; and 
that along their Eastern skirts is a narrow strip of 
very marshy, boggy, and Uneven ground, the outer 
edge of which produces coal and bitumen : these 
I saw on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far 
North as latitude 66. I also discovered them in 
my second journey, at the commencement of the 
rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. 
West longitude ; and the same was observed by 
Mr. Fidier, one of the servants of the Hudson's- 
Bay Company, at the source of the South branch 
of the Saskatchiwine, in about latitude 52. North, 
and longitude 112. 30. West.^ Next to this nar- 

* Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude 
60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie's River; and also near the 
forks of the Elk River. 



384 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH TH£ 

row belt are immense plains, or meadows, com- 
mencing in a point at about the junction of the 
River of the Mountain with Mackenzie's River, 
widening as they continue East and South, till 
they reach the Red River at its confluence with 
the Assiniboin River, from whence they take a 
more Southern direction, along the Mississippi 
towards Mexico. Adjoining to these plains is a 
broken country, composed of lakes, rocks, and 
soil. 

From the banks of the rivers running through 
the plains, there appeared to ooze a saline fluid, 
concreting into a thin, scurf on the grass. Near 
that part of the Slave River where it first loses the 
name of Peace River, and along the extreme edge 
of these plains, are very strong salt springs, which 
in the summer concrete and crystallize in great 
quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the 
South-West side of Lake Winipic, are also many 
salt ponds, but it requires a regular process to 
form salt from them. Along the West banks of 
the former is to be seen, at intervals, and traced 
in the line of the direction of the plains, a soft 
rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal 
stratas, particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Wini- 
pic, and Superior lakes, as also in the beds of the 
rivers crossing that line. It is also remarkable 
that, at the narrowest part of Lake Winipic, where 
it is not more than two miles in breadth, the West 
side is faced with rocks of this stone thirty feet 
perpendicular ; while, on the East side, the rocks 
arc more elevated, and of a dark-grey granite. 

The latter is to be found throughout the whole 
extent North of this country, to the coast of Hud- 
son's Bay, and as I have been informed, along 
that coast, onwards to the coast of Labrador ; and 
it may be further observed, that between these ex- 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 385 

tensive ranges of granite and lime-stone are found 
all the great lakes of this country. 

There is another very large district which must 
not be forgotten ; and behind all the others in si- 
tuation as well as in soil, produce, and climate. 
This comprehends the tract called the Barren 
Grounds, which is to the North of a line drawn 
from Churchill, along the North border of the 
Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the 
Hills and Slave Lake, and along the North side of 
the latter to the rocky mountains, which terminate 
in the North Sea, latitude 70. North, and longi- 
tude 155. West ; in the whole extent of which no 
trees are visible, except a few stinted ones, scat- 
tered along its rivers, and with scarce any thing of 
surface that can be called earth ; yet, this inhospi- 
table region is inhabited by a people who are ac- 
customed to the life it requires. Nor has bounti- 
ful nature withheld the means of subsistence ; the 
rein deer, which supply both food and cloathing, 
are satisfied with the produce of the hills, though 
they bear nothing but a short curling moss, on a 
species of which, that grows on the rocks, the 
people themselves subsist when famine invades 
them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a 
great variety of fish, but such as they produce are 
excellent, which, with hares and partridges, form 
a proportion of their food. 

The climate must necessarily be severe in such 
a country as we have described, and which displays 
so large a surface of fresh water. Its severity 
is extreme on the coast of Hudson's Bay, and 
proceeds from its immediate exposure to the North 
West winds that blow off the Frozen Ocean. 

These winds, in crossing directly from the bay 
over Canada and the British dominions on the At- 
lantic, as well as over the Eastern States of North 
America to that ocean, (where they give to those 



386 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

countries a length of winter astonishing to the in- 
habitants of the same latitudes in Europe), con- 
tinue to retain a great degree of force and cold in 
their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly 
at the time when the sun is in its Southern declina- 
tion. The same winds which come from the 
Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and 
across frozen lakes and snowy plains, bounded by 
the rocky mountains, lose their frigid influence, 
as they travel in a Southern direction, till they 
get to the Atlantic Ocean, where they close their 
progress. Is not this a sufiicient cause for the 
difference between the climate in America, and 
that of the same latitude in Europe ? 

It has been frequently advanced, that the clear- 
ing away the wood has had an astonishing influence 
in meliorating the climate in the former : but I am 
not disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent 
which it proposes to establish, when I consider 
the very trifling proportion of the country cleared, 
compared with die whole. The employment of 
the axe may have had some inconsiderable effect ; 
but I look to other causes. I myself observed in 
a country, which was in an absolute state of nature, 
that the climate is improving ; and this circum- 
stance was confirmed to me by the native inhabi- 
tants of it. Such a change, therefore, must pro- 
ceed from some predominating operation in the 
system of the globe which is beyond my conjec- 
ture, and, indeed, above my comprehension, and 
may, probably, in the course of time, give to 
America the climate of Europe. It is well known, 
indeed, that the waters are decreasing there, and 
that many lakes are draining and filling up by the 
earth which is carried into them from the higher 
lands by the rivers : and this may have some par- 
tial effect. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 387 

The climate on the West coast of America as- 
similates much more to that of Europe in the 
same latitudes : I think very little difference will 
be found, except such as proceed from the vicinity 
of high mountains covered with snow. This is 
an additional proof that the difference in the tem- 
perature of the air proceeds from the cause already 
mentioned. 

Much has been said, and much more still re- 
mains to be said on the peopling of America. — 
On this subject I shall confine myself to one or 
two observations, and leave my readers to draw 
their inferences from them. 

The progress of the inhabitants of the country 
immediately under our observation, which is com- 
prised within the line of latitude 45. North, is as 
follows: that of the Esquimaux, who possess the 
sea coast from the Atlantic through Hudson's 
Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's River (and 
I believe further), is known to be Westward; they 
never quit the coast, and agree in appearance, man- 
ners, language, and habits with the inhabitants of 
Greenland. The different tribes whom I describe 
under the name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, 
but originally the same people, were the inhabi- 
tants of the Atlantic coast, and the banks of the 
river St. Laurence and adjacent countries : their 
progress is Westerly, and they are even found 
West and North as far as Athabasca. On the 
contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes 
who speak their language, occupy the whole space 
between the Knisteneaux country and that of the 
Esquimaux, stretching behind the natives of the 
coast of the Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the 
river Columbia. Their progress is Easterly ; and, 
according to their own traditions, they came from 
Siberia ; agreeing in dress and manner with the 
people now found upon the coast of Asia. 
3 X 



388 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Of the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific 
Ocean we know little more than that they are sta- 
tionary there. The Kadowasis or Assiniboins, as 
well as the different tribes not particularly describ- 
ed, inhabiting the plains on and about the source 
and banks of the Saskatchiwine and Assiniboin 
rivers, are from the Southward, and their progress 
is North-West. 



The discovery of a passage by sea, North- East 
or North'West from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
Ocean, has for many years excited the attention 
of governments, and encouraged the enterprising 
spirit of individuals. The non-existence, how- 
ever, of any such practical passage being at length 
determined, the practicability of a passage through 
the continents of Asia and America becomes an 
object of consideration. The Russians, w^ho first 
discovered, that, along the coasts of Asia no useful 
or regular navigation existed, opened an interior 
communication by rivers, &c. and through that 
long and w^ide-extended continent, to the strait 
that separates Asia from America, over which 
they passed to the adjacent islands and continent 
of the latter. Our situation, at length, is in some 
degree similar to theirs : the non-existence of a 
practicable passage by sea, and the existence of 
one through the continent, are clearly proved ; 
and it requires only the countenance and support 
of the British Government, to increase in a very 
ample proportion this national advantage, and se- 
cure the trade of that country to its subjects. 

Experience, however, has proved, that this 
trade, from its very nature cannot be carried on by 
individuaU. A very large capital, or credit, or 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 389 

indeed both, is necessary, and consequendy an 
association of men of wealth to direct, with men of 
enterprise to act, in one common interest, must 
be formed on such principles, as that in due time 
the latter may succeed the former, in continual and 
progressive succession. Such was die equitable 
and successful mode adopted by the merchants 
from Canada, which has been already described. 

The junction of such a commercial association 
with the Hudson's-Bay Company, is the important 
measure which I would propose, and the trade 
might then be carried on with a very superior de- 
gree of advantage, both private and public, under 
the privilege of their charter, and would prove, in 
fact, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on 
which it was first granted. 

It would be an equal injustice to either party to 
be excluded from the option of such an undertak- 
ing; for if the one has a right by charter, has not 
the other a right by prior possession, as being suc- 
cessors to the subjects of France, who were exclu- 
sively possessed of all the then known parts of this 
country, before Canada was ceded to Great- Bri- 
tain, except the coast of Hudson's Bay, and having 
themselves been the discoverers of a vast extent of 
country since added to his Majesty's territories, 
even to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans? 

If, therefore, that company should decline, or be 
averse to engage in, such an extensive, and per- 
haps hazardous undertaking, it would not, surely, 
be an unreasonable proposal to them, from go- 
vernment, to give up a right which they refuse to 
exercise, on allowing them a just and reasonable 
indemnification for their stock, regulated by the 
average dividends of a certain number of years, or 
the actual price at which they transfer their stock. 
By enjoying the privilege of the company's 
charter, though but for a limited period, there are 



390 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

adventurers who would be willing, as they are able, 
to engage in, and carry on the proposed commer- 
cial undertaking, as well as to give the most ample 
and satisfactory security to government for the ful- 
filment of its contract with the company. It would, 
at the same time, be equally necessary to add a si- 
milar privilege of trade on Columbia River, and its 
tributary waters. 

If, however, it should appear, that the Hudson's 
Bay- Company have an exclusive right to carry on 
their trade as they think proper, and continue it on 
the narrow scale, and with so little benefit to the 
public as they now do; if they should refuse to 
enter into a co-operative junction with others, what 
reasonable cause can they assign to government 
for denying the navigation of the bay to Nelson's 
River : and, by its waters, a passage to and from 
the interior country, for the use of the adventurers, 
and for the sole purpose of transport, under the 
most severe and binding restrictions not to inter- 
fere with their trade on the coast, and the country 
between it and the actual establishments of the Ca- 
nadian traders*. 

By these waters that discharge themselves into 
Hudson's Bay at Port Nelson, it is proposed to 
carry on the trade to their source, at the head of 
the Saskatchiwine River, which rises in the Rocky 

* Indeperident of the prosecution of this gjeat object, I conceive, that 
the merchants from e:;jiada are entitled to such an indulgence (even if 
they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim), in order that 
they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their present limits, 
and have it in their power to supply the natives with a larger quantity 
of useful articles; the enhanced value of which, and the present difficulty 
of transporting them, will be fully comprehended, when I relate, that the 
tract of transport occupies an extent of from three to four thousand miles, 
through upwards of sixty large fresh water lakes, and numerous rivers ; 
and that the means of transport are slight bark canoes. It must also be 
observed, that those waters are intercepted by more than two hundred 
rapids, along which the articles of merchandise arc chiefly carried on 
men's backs, and ever a hundred and thirty carr}'ing-placc3, from twenty- 
five paces to thirteen miles in length, where the canoes and cargoes pro- 
ceed by ihe same toilsome and perilo-vis operations. 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 39 1 

Mountains, not eight degrees of longitude from the 
Pacific Ocean, The Tacoutche or Columbia 
river flows also from the same mountains, and dis- 
charges itself likewise in the Pacific, in latitude 
46» 20. Both of them are capable of receiving 
ships at their mouths, and are navigable through- 
out for boats. 

The distance between these waters is only known 
from the report of the Indians. If, however, this 
communication should prove inaccessible, the route 
I pursued, though longer, in consequence of the 
great angle it makes to the North, will answer 
every necessary purpose. But whatever course 
may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia is 
the line of communication from the Pacific Ocean, 
pointed out by nature, as it is the only navigable 
river in the whole extent of Vancouver's minute 
survey of that coast : its banks also form the first 
level country in all the Southern extent of conti- 
nental coast from Cook's entry, and, consequently, 
the most Northern situation fit for colonization, 
and suitable to the residence of a civilized people. 
By opening this intercourse between the Atlantic 
and Pacific Oceans, and forming regular establish- 
ments through the interior, and at both extremes, 
as wxll as along the coasts and islands, the entire 
command of the fur trade of North America might 
be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole, 
except that portion of it which the Russians have 
in the Pacific. To this may be added the fishing 
in both seas, and the markets of the four quarters 
of the globe. Such would be the field for com- 
mercial enterprise, and incalculable would be the 
produce of it, when supported by the operations of 
that credit and capital which Great Britain so pre- 
eminently possesses. Then would this country 
begin to be remunerated for the expences it has 
sustained in discovering and surveying the coast 



<5£)2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

of the Pacific Ocean, which is at present left to 
American adventurers, who without regularity or 
capital, or the desire of conciliating future confi- 
dence, look altogether to the interest of the mo- 
ment. They, therefore, collect all the skins they 
can procure, and in any manner that suits them, 
and having exchanged them at Canton for the pro- 
duce of China, return to their own country. Such 
adventurers, and many of them, as I have been in- 
formed, have been very successful, would instantly 
disappear from before a well-regulated trade. 

It would be very unhecomhig in me to suppose 
for a moment, that the East- India Company would 
hesitate to allow those privileges to their fellow- 
subjects which are permitted to foreigners, in a 
trade that is so much out of the line of their own 
commerce, and therefore cannot be injurious to it. 

Many political reasons, which it is not necessa- 
ry here to enumerate, must present themselves to 
the mind of every man acquainted with the enlarg- 
ed system and capacities of British commerce in 
support of the measure which I have very briefly 
suggested, as promising the most important ad- 
vantages to the trade of the united kingdoms. 



THE END. 



It is to be observed^ that the Courses throughout the Jour- 
nals are taken by Compass, a7id that the Variation must be 
considered. 



/• 



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APP19S9 ji 

..J 



